The Best Light Fixture Ever!

[rok_hunter]

Stepping aside from the general discussion of "what lights should I get", I'd like to ask about the ones I've bought - I have some hanging LED strip lights I'm going to install in my barn, with hard-wired installation. I'd like to think there's a better option to wire them in, than just a power wire hanging from the ceiling junction box to the light fixture. What options have you all used for nice, clean installations on hanging strip lights?

 

[pbon]

Armorshield.

 

[CrimsnTide]

Is ProLighting still accepting a Coupon Code from here? Has it changed? I cannot get it to work. Or should I just call and see if it will be applied over the phone. 7% will ALMOST take care of the taxes....

Thanks,

Joe M.

 

[Platonic Solid]

CrimsnTide - Pops up every time I visit their website. It does state "one use per customer".

 

[CrimsnTide]

Platonic Solid - I will look again. Thanks for the reminder for one use per customer. Going there now, I see the $10 off purchase. I'm still not sure on the 7% code.... ANYWAY - Do you feel up to helping out (Verifying?) another layout? My DETACHED garage is an odd shape - and I really don't care about the loft area (above or below for right now) shown in the diagram. It's the work area, I'd like to update.

In a nutshell - 17' x 23' area. It currently has 6 (SIX) 8' dual bulb - florescent light fixtures. Don't know what bulbs they are, but the fixtures have to date back to the 1970's (No Joke). HUGE / LARGE HUMMING BALLASTS... ALL six are hanging 12' above the garage floor. NONE of the walls have been dry-walled OR painted. Plywood on one side - and I can see the 1x6 slats looking up at the roof. Highest part (peak) of ceiling sits about 16'-17' high. Although this is a "garage" - nobody parks in here.

My eyesight is definitely deteriorating with age. Have always been fortunate to work in a well lit area, and would like to keep doing so. Don't totally understand the lumens to "bright light" connection, but have read MANY of your recommendations.
My question - is it too much of a overkill to replace each 8 foot fixture with TWO of the TechBrite 48" 3 Lamp LED T8 Strip Fixture - 5000K - 8,019 Lumens - 120-277V (would be a total of 12 for the whole floor space).

Or would replacing with some like mentioned in your 1st post be sufficient? (MaxLite's)

Overkill?

And, I NOW see on their website the light mentioned above is sold out. Maybe I'll call tomorrow and see what their availability is. Just my luck.

Thanks again for ANY effort your willing to put in to my work. If people, (ALL PEOPLE) gave up just a little bit more of their time (such as what your doing here) our Nation's mindset would be much different than what I see now.
Be Safe. Be kind. Be human.

 

[Platonic Solid]

CrimsnTide - Most of those old 8ft fixtures can be converted to use four 4ft bulbs with a retrofit kit (link). Then add bulbs from post 1 or those from Prolighting (link) are good too (link). If you find a 3-lamp strip light or wait for them to be back in stock, you'll need 12 of them 3x4 pattern.

Retrofitting your existing fixtures = 24 bulbs = 65fc @ 30" work plane (you lost 20fc due to non-reflective walls+ceiling)

12 3-lamp strip lights = 36 bulbs = 98fc ...

 

[teejaywhy]

Mr PS... thank you for a very informative thread.

My garage has four existing 2 x 4' T12 fixtures with diffusers that I would like to convert to LED.

From everything I've read, the simplest way would be to convert to single ended T8 LED tubes, which would entail:
- removing ballast
- replacing existing shunted sockets on one end with Non-shunted sockets and connecting to line & neutral
- Installing the bulbs and viola!

QUESTIONS:
- Linked on the first post is a 4000K tube, would this be the same tube in a 5000K?
https://www.ledmyplace.com/products/t8-4ft-led-tube-18w-5000k-frosted

- Are the single ended tubes "polarized" meaning is it important when connecting line and neutral to the live end sockets? Curious because it seems the tubes could easily be installed either way.

- Am I correctly understanding that the opposite end of a single-ended tube is not live and I am ok leaving the shunted sockets with cut-off wires in there?

- Anything else I'm missing? and/or would you have any different recommendation for tubes?


THANKS IN ADVANCE!

 

[Platonic Solid]

teejaywhy - Spend the extra $0.76 per bulb and you won't need to replace any lamp holders. Hot to one end, Neutral to other end. Bulb (link)

 

[teejaywhy]

teejaywhy - Spend the extra $0.76 per bulb and you won't need to replace any lamp holders. Hot to one end, Neutral to other end. Bulb (link)

Excellent, thank you !

 

[MerlinsBeard]

Is there an ies file that approximates this fixture, or a good place to search for one?

TechBrite SKU: T443SSUBCXX00P0-18W5K
TechBrite 48" 3 Lamp LED T8 Strip Fixture - 5000K - 8,019 Lumens - 120-277V

I've got Dialux installed and got something going with a random 48" strip light I found from Lithonia's website, trying to get more accurate. Mostly I need to try some layouts to figure out how to best work around ceiling storage on one side of the garage.

 

[Platonic Solid]

MerlinsBeard - Not that I'm aware of. You have to select a similar medium distribution fixture to emulate it. Prolighting might have something, but I've never asked. You can tweak the lumen output, wattage and CCT in Dialux, but not the distribution pattern.

 

[twk63]

I have a 40x40 workshop building with 25’ ceilings. I wired in 4 Bigass high bay 48” 20k lumen light fixtures, which I believe are no longer available.

Recently I had the building power washed and painted, after which 2 of the 4 fixtures were partially shorted out. I let the fixtures dry out, hoping that would cure the issue but it did not. It appears I will need to replace those two fixtures.

I’ve attached photos of the two fixtures. In one, two
of the four LED strips are non-functional. In the other, three of four are shorted.

Any recommendations on a suitable replacement or a source of replacement LEDs for Bigass lights?

 

[Platonic Solid]

twk63 - Considering that you probably paid way more for those fixtures than they're worth, I'd contact Bigass for replacement parts or entirely new fixtures. What IP rating do they claim? Were you satisfied with the illuminance of the space when they all worked?

 

[twk63]

twk63 - Considering that you probably paid way more for those fixtures than they're worth, I'd contact Bigass for replacement parts or entirely new fixtures. What IP rating do they claim? Were you satisfied with the illuminance of the space when they all worked?

I did, they stopped manufacturing these lights. I paid a ridiculous amount for them. To be fair, they work beautifully. I installed them in a garage with very dark and dirty walls and they still lit up the place. I just repainted the interior and off-white and even with 3 of 4 LED strips shorted out, the one remaining strip still lights it up pretty well.

My garage makeover thread is here:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=454133&showall=1

 

[redjeepxj]

FYI, chat sales rep at ProLighting said the GARAGEJOURNAL code has been discontinued.

 

[Platonic Solid]

Hi there. This is my first post. My 30x28x12 garage will start construction in July. Any thoughts/feedback on the attached layout? Left bay will be used for service bay with lift and workbench at the front. Right bay will be only used to park. 8 total light fixtures represented by the squiggly lines. Was planning to go with Prolighting Techbrite 3-bulb T8 fixtures 5000K.

Space is too small to be segregating into work area vs storage. Light entire space as a work area. Recommend 9 12000 lumen surface mount fixture like this one (select surface mounting bracket option adder). Space fixtures 3 ft from walls and 1 in center.

 

[Supra97]

Space is too small to be segregating into work area vs storage. Light entire space as a work area. Recommend 9 12000 lumen surface mount fixture like (select surface mounting bracket option adder). Space fixtures 3 ft from walls and 1 in center.

Thanks for the feedback. How does the revised layout look? I wasn't sure if your specified 3ft from wall meant to edge or to center of the light fixture...this plan is based on edge.

From what I've read high-bay lights are designed for ceilings 20ft or greater when this garage will only be 12-13ft. Will these still work OK? My ceiling will be finished, but walls exposed.

Do you recommend no lens, clear lens or diffuse lens for the fixtures you linked?

And lastly, what is your feedback on the ceiling fan placement? I'm planning to have a heater placed in the top left corner and the two squares you see indicated are where I'm planning my two post lift columns. Would the fan be better placed as shown closer to the heater side or closer to the door side?

Let me know.

 

[Platonic Solid]

Supra97 - Diffused lens - sorry didn't realize that was something that had to be selected. 3ft to wall from fixture center. 3x3 pattern = put fixtures in corners. Fan size and placement is your issue to solve as fans shadows can be really annoying.

 

[Supra97]

Supra97 - Diffused lens - sorry didn't realize that was something that had to be selected. 3ft to wall from fixture center. 3x3 pattern = put fixtures in corners. Fan size and placement is your issue to solve as fans shadows can be really annoying.

Sorry I misunderstood the layout. See attached. Does this look better, or should the corner lights be further spread out & positioned 3ft from both walls?

So with only 12ft ceilings you think I'll be fine using the suggested high-bay lights with diffused lenses?

 

[Platonic Solid]

Supra97 - 3ft from both walls. Yes, with 12ft ceilings you'll be very good with suggested fixture with diffused lens and surface mounting brackets.

 

[Supra97]

Supra97 - 3ft from both walls. Yes, with 12ft ceilings you'll be very good with suggested fixture with diffused lens and surface mounting brackets.

3ft from center point of fixture to wall seems awfully close when that would result in the next fixture center in the row being spaced over 11' away as pictured. Is this what you're intending?

If so, can you help me understand your logic as someone else suggested a similar 3x3 light layout with 48" T8 3 bulb fixtures but they were spaced half the distance from the wall as they were from the middle fixture.

Sorry for all the questions, I just want to make sure I have a good grasp on this before submitting the electrical plans & buying fixtures.

 

[Platonic Solid]

Supra97 - Spacing is to get more light between cars and walls to reduce shadows. Which is even more important for you since your walls aren't finished, thus have practically no reflectance. 3-lamp 4ft LED strip lights would work also, but you'd need lots more of them to yield the same fc @ 30" work plane.

 

[Supra97]

Supra97 - Spacing is to get more light between cars and walls to reduce shadows. Which is even more important for you since your walls aren't finished, thus have practically no reflectance. 3-lamp 4ft LED strip lights would work also, but you'd need lots more of them to yield the same fc @ 30" work plane.

Understood. 9 of these 12,000 lumen fixtures will generate over 100fc, correct? Is that overkill? Could I get away with 6 of these fixtures instead and if so, how would you suggest laying those out?

 

[Platonic Solid]

Supra97 - Actually No. 9 will give you 72fc @ 30" workplane (86 fc if you had finished walls). If you want less, then put them on dimmers or buy lower output fixtures. If you want shadows, then install fewer fixtures wherever you like. I'm done.

 

[wee]

Looking for advice for a 18,000 SQFT warehouse with 28 feet high ceilings. We have 60 metal halide fixtures now. Is there a LED unit that we could just replace the old units with....? If so what would be your recommendations...?

The size of the warehouse is basically 2 twice as long as it is wide with 4 rows of lights running the length of the building.

I can do a more accurate layout with dimensions and existing fixtures locations if needed.

Thank You
Brian

 

[Platonic Solid]

wee - If you're satisfied with the lighting you have and just want an LED replacement then you need to figure out what wattage your current fixtures are. Here's a link to one of many sites that discuss your question. UFO fixtures are generally the fixture of choice. Do not use corn bulbs.

 

[Supra97]

Supra97 - Actually No. 9 will give you 72fc @ 30" workplane (86 fc if you had finished walls). If you want less, then put them on dimmers or buy lower output fixtures. If you want shadows, then install fewer fixtures wherever you like. I'm done.

I appreciate your help. Sorry for asking questions but I’m just trying to understand how this works. I reached out to the company that sells the fixtures you suggested and they said 9 is overkill and would produce 106fc and 6 would be more ideal producing 70fc. Gave them same dimensions and finishings.

 

[Platonic Solid]

Supra97 - They're wrong.

 

[stylngle2003]

Thanks for keeping this thread up. So much good info here.

Platonic - your recommendations are awesome and super detailed. Thank you for your time. I have a weird, convoluted, but hopefully simple question.

I have a single fixture in my shed that i'd like to upgrade to LED. It is a 24" T12 fixture with a F20T12, which works fine currently.

While I was doing some other lighting upgrades in my shed, I thought "why not convert that tube with one of these LEDs they sell at Lowes?". I purchased an GE F17T8 replacement, part number LED8ET8/G2, because it said it didn't need to have the ballast bypassed.

Speaking of ballasts, I had an old (heavy...presume magnetic because it's a t12) ballast that was hit or miss. It would take a while to fire off, buzzed a little, etc. Not ideal, but it worked (generally) and was paid for.

Upon returning home with my bulb and throwing the switch, I was rewarded with extremely bright light...for half a second. Then nothing. Switching off and back on would do the same thing, bright flash, then off. No amount of wiggling the bulb in the tombstone would change any performance. I had to run back to Lowes for something else, and returned the bulb in exchange for a new one. Same deal: flash, no workie. I did some research in this and other threads and found out that the LED tubes aren't compatible with T12 magnetic ballasts. So, best to retrofit it, I thought.

I replaced it with the most readily-available electronic ballast I could find on Amazon - A Keystone KTEB-120-1-TP. Looking at the specs on it, it seemed like a good fit. It had good reviews and I could get it the next day, so I pulled the trigger. My tombstones are not shunted, so I have two blue wires to one tombstone and two reds to the other.

The bad news is the 2nd GE bulb didn't work either. I then checked the list of approved ballasts and found my ballast isn't on it, so I returned it again.
The good news is, the Flourescent tube still works fine (better than it did, actually)
But, I still want to upgrade. I realize now, I should probably just bypass and get the proper tube. Is there a tube that you could recommend that will work in current config, with the ballast, and also bypassed? What tube would you recommend?

The other lights in this space are 2 100W equivalent LED normal bulbs as task lights (both 5000k), and a Harbor Freight/Braun 48" "5000 Lumen" LED shop light. So 5000k would be my preference for color. This light is really just toolbox/workbench light, not specific task lights. The space is small, 10x10, but I would rather have more light than not enough.

 

[Platonic Solid]

stylngle2003 - This bulb works with or without ballast, single end or double end wired, so you can toss your new ballast. I assume you have a special relationship with that 2ft fixture or don't have room for the 4ft budget shop lights everyone sells.

 

[wee]

Platonic...Our bulbs are 400 watt, new they produced satisfactory light but now about a third of them are out. Each unit we have now has a plug and a hanging hook but I haven't figured out the voltage ran to them yet. They are on 4 separate 20 amp breakers that look like single pole if they were in a house, I'm not sure since they are in a commercial warehouse.

Is there a particular brand or model UFO fixture in the 150 watt range that you would recommend....?

Brian

 

[stylngle2003]

stylngle2003 - This bulb works with or without ballast, single end or double end wired, so you can toss your new ballast. I assume you have a special relationship with that 2ft fixture or don't have room for the 4ft budget shop lights everyone sells.

Haha, fair play. Thanks for quick reply.

No special relationship. It just fits the space (under the loft in my shed, 6' high) and was free. But is also rather small to put anywhere else. But now you have me thinking about actually putting a 4 footer under there and repurposing the 2 footer somewhere else. Hmmm

 

[MerlinsBeard]

Is there an ies file that approximates this fixture, or a good place to search for one?

TechBrite SKU: T443SSUBCXX00P0-18W5K
TechBrite 48" 3 Lamp LED T8 Strip Fixture - 5000K - 8,019 Lumens - 120-277V

I've got Dialux installed and got something going with a random 48" strip light I found from Lithonia's website, trying to get more accurate. Mostly I need to try some layouts to figure out how to best work around ceiling storage on one side of the garage.

Prolighting was kind enough to give me an ies file modeling their 3 lamp fixture.

I made an attempt at a layout. The bottom of the image is where the garage door is and I have overhead storage on both sides above the garage door.

Room is 20x20x12, drywall ceilings and walls, gray concrete slab floor. I played around and decided that I want to mount fixtures into joists, so that means I placed them at 3' - 8' - 12' - 17', and at 10' down the middle. I have 2ft ceiling shelves for storage that extend from the side walls on both sides, so 2.5 is really cutting it close to occluding a lot of the lamp.

Existing incandescent light fixtures are 9 feet from rear of garage, 5 ft in on both sides. Just wondering if there was a potential alternative layout, but this seems to be the best I can come up with.

 

[aventino68]

Great thread. Working through lighting and this is a great place to start

 

[Platonic Solid]

wee - I'd start by checking for any LED replacement incentives offered by your state and/or power company. Incentive program may have a list of approved fixtures or require DLC listing (which I would recommend even without incentive money). At 28ft, installation cost is a significant factor - thus it may be worth paying more for name brand and longer life. I'd contact you local lighting distributor. I see these in your local area:
http://www.smartltg.com/
https://www.cityelectricsupply.com/branch/91
https://www.graybar.com

 

[Oldgloryfirearms]

I just grabbed a similar ~12,000 lumen output fixture to the one I posted previously for the layout. Not perfect, but you could do much worse.

Click image for larger view

​

Here's the Dialux PDF (link) with mounting location info. I put the fixtures at 13ft since the linked fixture doesn't have a surface mount option, thus they will have to hang.

Note to everyone else - Please don't flood me with layout requests as I don't have the time or desire to do free layouts for everyone.

Platonic Solid, I am the same layout as the above with the exception of white metal ceiling and walls. I would also be working on cars and motorcycles. Would you recommend the same layout and fixture as you did above? thanks for your time and expertise

 

[Mirage_Man]

I think I have information overload. If someone would recommend which and how many fixtures would be best for a wood/metal shop in a one car garage that measures 14'x23' with 8.5' ceilings I'd be very grateful.

I currently have two old 4-fixture and one 2-fixture fluorescents. They are not spaced optimally and the light for my aging eyes seems dank and dreary. I'd really like to update my shop with cooler (5K) LEDs and get rid of the shadows and dark areas as well as give me much better visibility. The only thing that is kinda a pain to work around is the area below which my air handler for the AC system is. There is a 4'x6' area protruding down from the ceiling about 6-8". See pictures as I think they explain better than I can in words. The thing is that directly below that area is my main work and assembly area. I can mount a fixture under it but it would have to be easily removable in case access to the air handler is needed. The whole garage/shop will be freshly painted white as well as an epoxy gray floor.

 

[rockminster]

This thread is amazing. I read it from the start and literally watched the transition from fluorescent to LED transpire. Platonic has been so generous in helping out the forum.

I'll post up the plans for my "carbarn" where framing will soon commence. Would appreciate counsel on how to best light it. In the bay without lifts I'll do some paint correction polishing so having lighting conducive to that would be preferred. Would like the lighting to work well with lifts and i might add lifts to both bays so I should light both with that in mind. Planning to have a darker ceiling throughout (about 15 feet high at the peaks). No yet sure on wall color or flooring.

(If the posted image is too small, I'll have to find a way to save and post a larger one).

 

[Platonic Solid]

Sorry guys, I'm too busy with my own projects this time of year.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Is there any advantage to a 2' linear high bay LED (e.g.: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DJYT1KR/?tag=atomicindus08-20 ) vs a UFO LED fixture for an approximate 16' high open shop mounting? It looks like either fixture will get me where I want to be foot candle wise. Apologies in advance if that's a stupid question.

Edit: Searched further in this thread and probably answered my own question. Sounds like the linear highbays are a bit more reliable and a bit less expensive than the UFO fixtures. I will probably lean toward the 2' linear units.

Just want to make sure I make the best choice I can as I'm looking at 12 15k lumen (or maybe 18 k lumen) fixtures for my 40 x 40 shop.