The Bicycle (Specialty) Tools Thread

[Grant Gunderson]

The last few posts make me very happy I stick with my old-school bikes. Current designs are too complicated for their own good, it seems to me. Hydraulic lines through the headset? Really?

Rick “never had a profound brake failure” Denney

I agree. The cable routing through the headset is idiotic. The fact the frame is t drilled to allow you to run a normal headset is even
more so. That being said some of the newer tech is really nice. For example I’m running wireless shifting and a wireless dropper on all of my bikes so that makes them simpler and easier to work on, with a hell of a lot less maintenance needed. It also saves a ton of time breaking down and building the bikes when I need to fly with them for work. While the Ebikes do add a bunch of complexity, I’ve found that they are very easy to work on (minus routing the cables between frame and motor) and there is no longer BB bearing maintenance to deal with and the associated mess of various drifts / cups needed to install / remove.

 

[JRC3]

The last few posts make me very happy I stick with my old-school bikes. Current designs are too complicated for their own good, it seems to me. Hydraulic lines through the headset? Really?

Rick “never had a profound brake failure” Denney

LOL...Because just last night I installed a hydraulic dropper on the 1999 Trek. And the week before I went through all the hydraulic brakes. And all 3 of those hydraulic lines are just flappin' in the wind like a good pair of performance boxer-briefs. The bike makers are out of control right now. And people plop down thousands to chug the Kool Aid. haha

 

[Grant Gunderson]

LOL...Because just last night I installed a hydraulic dropper on the 1999 Trek. And the week before I went through all the hydraulic brakes. And all 3 of those hydraulic lines are just flappin' in the wind like a good pair of performance boxer-briefs. The bike makers are out of control right now. And people plop down thousands to chug the Kool Aid. haha

I dont really think its the frame makers... it seems to me its more the parts suppliers that are dictating a lot of it these days... or at least thats what Ive been told by both of my friends that own two separate bike brands.

The one thing thats for sure tho, is that I couldn't see myself going back to riding the archaic geometry those bikes had from 7 years ago, the stuff from 25 years ago, no way... at least not for the types of trails I like to ride around here.

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

The issue with Shimano brakes is there is no real bite point adjustment. So if you are coming from Codes, etc It can be really tough to get the bite point as firm as some of us would like. I have had good luck with the dual piston XT's. In fact I had them on my previous e-bike and had no complaints with them at all, and they never made me wish for more power, even slowing the E-bike down on the steepest trails we have here in the PNW. Most likely the issue you are seeing is that your brakes probally came with organic pads. Organic pads are pretty much useless in my mind, they dont stop as well or last as long as the metal sinistered pads. Based upon what you stated I'm really to bet this is the issue. If you have a spongey lever, then they need a good bleed. I always bleed new brakes as I find the factory bleeds are usually so-so and I like to shorten my lines as much as possible as I like a really tidy cockpit.

I am Luke warm on the Maguras. They do have a ton of power and stop very well. A bunch of us are running them here in Bellingham on our E-bikes and we all found they took for ever to properly bed in... almost 4K vert of decending before they where good to go. None of us have ever experienced such a long bed in before on any brakes system, and we have pretty much ran everything at this point. The maguras do tend to go threw brake pads a bit quicker than others. This is due to the calipers using magnets to hold the pads in and there being no pad springs, so it seems the pads can drag a bit. The bigger issue with the Maura's is they use a composite lever body. I dont have very high confidence in it holding up. The screws that mount the lever to the bars are essentially wood screws going into the plastic lever body. Also the master cylinder cap is not retained by screws. It just snaps on / off and I have seen it pop off and bleed fluid everywhere when the pads get pushed back in for a pad change. Not confidence inspiring.

Now, I think a pretty good setup would be Shimano levers with the Magura calipers. The idea is the Shimano levers are clearly better made, but more importantly they have a larger master cylinder then the Magura levers, so that gives you even more stoping power. Lots of people have been doing that conversion and if you google "Shigura" lots of info comes up on it.

I know a few people that have been running the new TRP 4 pistons, and all of them are saying they are by far the best brakes they have ran with really good stopping power and modulation. I haven't used them yet, so I cant say first hand, and its probally too early to know how they will last long term.

I think I'm going to break down and just buy new pads. It really pisses me off after I spent so much money. I took the kids on a bike ride through the neighborhood tonight and I thought I was going to snap the levers trying to lock up the tires.....with dual piston brakes! After quite a few rides and attempts to bed these things, I still can't safely ride down any grade.



I went and rode National (a well known trail in Phoenix) with my buddies and went down the famous Warerfall. I got to the bottom and my buddy says "holy hell you went down that fast!"......"yep, I forgot how ****** my brakes are as it was all uphill to this point!"

 

[Grant Gunderson]

I think I'm going to break down and just buy new pads.

Before you do that, pull yours out. Look at the back they should have an "o" or and "r" on them for resin / organic. If they have an "s" or "M" then they are metallic. Also look as see if the pads have gotten glazed. IF they are glazed, soaking them in brake cleaner (clean the rotor too!) then give them a light sand with 80 grit pepper and then clean again with brake cleaner will usually fix that.

BTW that looks like a fun section of trail.

I attempted to bleed the Maguras today after replacing the hose last night.

I have been pretty happy with the Park brake bleeder kits. They are expensive, but with having both the Mineral Oil and DOT kit, I have every brake on the market covered with all of the adapters they make for it. The syringe holder is nice too.

Even after numerous attempts I couldn't get a good bleed. WTF? I cleaned everything with Isporople and blew it dry with the air gun. I then pulled the lever a few times, to hopefully find any obvious leaks. Turns out the master cylinder is leaking. Argh.

In order to get access to the master cylinder, you need to remove the brake lever. On the Maguras this is simple. I just used a Starrett pin punch and a Starrett bench block to push the pin through. That bench block makes it a hell of a lot easier any time you need to remove a pin.

Lever is now separated from the lever body. Note the screws with the wood thread that Magura uses for the bar clamps. I have my doubts how long those last until they strip out.

The master cylinder is just held in place by a T10 screw. Note the wear on it from the lever.

Cylinder is out. Notice the small nick in the seal. I expect the seal failed after the hose got cut by the headset, and I kept trying to pump the brakes to get any breaking out of them before I gave up and hike a biked out the other night. ****.

A quick look on a few websites and none of the local bike shops listed them for sale. I did see them on E-bay for less than $5 a piece but with 3-4 weeks shipping from China. So I headed down to the LBS and talked to a new kid at the front counter. Told him exactly what I needed, and told him I know its not an inventory part, but most likely a service item that they usual have in stock in the back ( Local shop is really good for this stuff and I know the owners pretty well) Kid just looks on shop website and says nope dont have. Argh, I'm perfectly capable of checking a website myself, but we all know they are not always accurate with stock, and service kit items are almost never on them. Wouldn't even bother checking with the service guys in the back.....argh **** customer service. I ended up ordering 5 of the parts from the china seller on Ebay. Couldn't find a replacement Magura lever standalone in stock, but did end up finding a set of XTR levers so ordered those, and will be testing out the Shigura setup.

 

[Krokodil]

Burton Bike Tools from the UK makes some nice BB press plates.

 

[f121]

I dont really think its the frame makers... it seems to me its more the parts suppliers that are dictating a lot of it these days... or at least thats what Ive been told by both of my friends that own two separate bike brands.

I really hope one of those friends owns the company that decided on that utterly ridiculous cable routing on your repeater. A dangerous solution to a problem that doesn't exist.

The one thing thats for sure tho, is that I couldn't see myself going back to riding the archaic geometry those bikes had from 7 years ago, the stuff from 25 years ago, no way... at least not for the types of trails I like to ride around here.

Also, this ^^.

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

I have to say, for trail riding I actually like the nimbleness of my 2015 Niner WFO. The new slacked geo is cool for downhill, but it makes the tight switchbacks difficult to navigate and can make technical climibing more challenging. Don't get me wrong, I'm not about to go back to 100mm stems or anything!

I seem to keep a bike for every type of riding I do; the spice of life!

 

[slowtwitch73]

I like to have one.... Santa Cruz Tallboy. Sold my quiver a few years back. If I can't get it done on that bike, I don't want to be doing it.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

I really hope one of those friends owns the company that decided on that utterly ridiculous cable routing on your repeater. A dangerous solution to a problem that doesn't exist.

Oh he knows.... we all gave him a lot of **** for it. They did it do to supply chain issues during covid, as it is, the bike was still released way later than planned. None of the bikes in the coming lineup have that headset thankfully!

 

[Kuma601]

The last few posts make me very happy I stick with my old-school bikes. Current designs are too complicated for their own good, it seems to me. Hydraulic lines through the headset? Really?

Rick “never had a profound brake failure” Denney

I have some of that sentiment too. Like window cranks, rotate the handle and the window goes up down. Now running a window goes through the MPX module that runs through a body ECU. I digress...would be amusing to have a cell phone app shift your riding buddy's bike when doing an interval challenge.

These are the two vintage rides, both sinple and easy to work on:
Atala cromor frame with Shimano 7800 Dura Ace (The Shimano 600 EX crank arms, seat post and bottle cages remain from the original '84 build.)


Vitus 979 with Shimano 600 EX 6spd, Mavic MA40 36H wheels. I was greedy in the early 90's and hit up local shops hunting down period parts to keep this thing going.

 

[Pexto]

And on another note entirely, I am really tired of my chain whips that are all from the 8-speed era or earlier. I can sort of make them work, but I am looking for a single high quality chain whip that will work with all my 10-11-12-speed stuff. Any recommendations? I'm thinking of adding a Hozan chain whip to my next amaz.jp order. Any comments on the Hozan?

Just to follow up: after researching this some more, I ended up ordering a Pedro's Vise Whip II. It showed up today and I am very pleased. It seems far more functional and effective than any chain whip I've ever used. It gives very positive and firm engagement. Definitely a solid choice, although a bit pricy.

Couldn't resist throwing some recent Nepros, KTC, and PB Swiss acquisitions into the image as well. That long KTC swivel ratchet is a real star for bottom brackets and pedal work. And the little Nepros 1/4" ratchet is quite nice, although often my old SK round head 40970 is the one I reach for. It's hard for me to pick a favorite between the Nepros and PB Swiss hex sockets; they are both absolutely first class.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

Just to follow up: after researching this some more, I ended up ordering a Pedro's Vise Whip II. It showed up today and I am very pleased. It seems far more functional and effective than any chain whip I've ever used. It gives very positive and firm engagement. Definitely a solid choice, although a bit pricy.

Couldn't resist throwing some recent Nepros, KTC, and PB Swiss acquisitions into the image as well. That long KTC swivel ratchet is a real star for bottom brackets and pedal work. And the little Nepros 1/4" ratchet is quite nice, although often my old SK round head 40970 is the one I reach for. It's hard for me to pick a favorite between the Nepros and PB Swiss hex sockets; they are both absolutely first class.

Nice! I have had the original Pedro’s cassette vise grip and it’s served me well. Back when we where constantly switching from 10-11-12 speeds it was a bit of a pain in that you had to readjust, but now everything is 12 speed it’s great again. I have no issues with the original, but that new one looks like they have made some nice improvements to it.

 

[rdenney]

My first good bike was this:



I owned every tool needed to assemble from frame up and service everything: A Campy T-handle (combining a 6mm Allen wrench with an 8mm nut driver), 13 and 14mm cone wrenches, 14 and 15mm box-end wrenches, 15mm pedal wrench, Campy headset wrenches, Phil Wood bottom-bracket spline wrench, Phil thin-shell Regina freewheel spline tool, 15mm 3/8-drive socket, 3/8-drive torque wrench, Campy crank remover, third hand brake clamp, concentric wire cutter, a 1/2” threaded rod with two nuts and two washers for pressing headset races, a good pair of slip-joint pliers, spoke wrench, dishing tool, truing stand (easy to make—my main stand for years was home-mad, and tube of Clemente glue. Without the Phil Wood bottom bracket, one must add the expensive fixed-cup wrench and VAR lock-ring spanned pliers, though any of us could substitute a large Crescent wrench for the fixed cup without buggering it up. The T-wrench could make every running adjustment one might ever need in the road.

The tools cost less than the bike. Is that still true? I still have the bike and the tools.

Rick “rides that bike from time to time to remember that it all worked and rather elegantly so” Denney

 

[f121]

The tools cost less than the bike. Is that still true? I still have the bike and the tools.

Yes, that’s still true. Bikes got way more expensive.

 

[JRC3]

My first good bike was this:

Look at that pump. Isn't it funny how the tires have gotten wider and the pumps have gotten smaller.

 

[Odd-job]

Look at that pump. Isn't it funny how the tires have gotten wider and the pumps have gotten smaller.

bib short inseams have gotten longer too...

 

[Grant Gunderson]

Yes, that’s still true. Bikes got way more expensive.

So has the service fees for bike shops. Most shops here want $550-$600 for a full tune plus parts…. At those prices bike tools are really cheap!

 

[Pexto]

Look at that pump. Isn't it funny how the tires have gotten wider and the pumps have gotten smaller.

Those old Silca frame pumps were not very good. They inevitably cracked around the top of the tube.

I still have my Campy pump head just like Rick has. I can't tell from the picture if his still has the little blue frame pads; mine have long since cracked and fallen off.

That bike brings back a lot of memories. I had Bullseye pulleys on my Nouvo Record derailleur back in the 80s too...

 

[slowtwitch73]

I always liked this ad..

 

[mepstein]

So has the service fees for bike shops. Most shops here want $550-$600 for a full tube plus parts…. At those prices bike tools are really cheap!

Unless you have an old bike, there isn’t much reason to do the traditional overhaul. Many of the bottom brackets are sealed cartridge bearing. Threadless headsets take 5 minutes to clean up using a 5 mm Allen wrench. Derailleur cables wear out but that’s a 20 minute job. If you are restoring an old Italian bike, I could see a couple hundred but $600 should buy you a handshake with Eddy Merckx.

 

[rdenney]

Unless you have an old bike, there isn’t much reason to do the traditional overhaul. Many of the bottom brackets are sealed cartridge bearing. Threadless headsets take 5 minutes to clean up using a 5 mm Allen wrench. Derailleur cables wear out but that’s a 20 minute job. If you are restoring an old Italian bike, I could see a couple hundred but $600 should buy you a handshake with Eddy Merckx.

Did someone say Eddy Merckx?



This is the most comfortable bike I own, but it’s also the stiffest.

Rick “state of the art, ca. 1994” Denney

 

[rdenney]

Those old Silca frame pumps were not very good. They inevitably cracked around the top of the tube.

I still have my Campy pump head just like Rick has. I can't tell from the picture if his still has the little blue frame pads; mine have long since cracked and fallen off.

That bike brings back a lot of memories. I had Bullseye pulleys on my Nouvo Record derailleur back in the 80s too...

Nobody used the Silca plastic heads, at least not for long. My Campy head has black rubber tips, and I may have replaced those when I refurbed the bike for display in the late 90’s. Maybe I bought them from Bicycle Classics when they were in Newton, MA. That’s where I got the long-lasting black Campy brake-lever covers. The original gum rubber covers lasted about 15 minutes in the sun.

That pump certainly has experience. It’s about half a cm too long and I had to file the handle a bit to fit. But the pump I had painted with the frame was about half a cm too short and it fell out. It has pumped up dozens of sewup tires on the road. I used to carry two folded-up tubulars on the back of the saddle, held there with (of course) a toe strap.

The bike was built by Bill Moore in Houston—a name most old Houston bikies would know. He built it in 1977. Prior to that, I was riding a $50 Atala. Columbus SP tubing—stiff for the day.

I liked the Bullseye jockey wheels because they were red anodized aluminum, which just had to better than plastic.

Rick “Campy forged aluminum looks so good” Denney

 

[mepstein]

Did someone say Eddy Merckx?



This is the most comfortable bike I own, but it’s also the stiffest.

Rick “state of the art, ca. 1994” Denney

I did shake his hand when I raced in Belgium. He and my coach were childhood friends. Most of the amateur teams we raced against rode on matching Merckx bikes.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

Had a few new tools arrive today.

A $5 3d printed through axle holder for the bike stand. we will see how it holds up, but if it works and lasts it will be really convent to store axles in when working on the bike.

I also picked up some Nepro's stuff to test out, before I commit to ordering sets of sockets from them.

L to R PBSwiss 3mm short, Nepros 2.5mm, Snapon 2.5mm, Snapon 2mm, Nepros 2mm, Snapon T25 short, Nepros T25 short.
I have a few of their 90 tooth compact head ratchets and I always grab those over my Snapon ones. When it comes to hex and Torx sockets, I use the **** out of them. My PBswiss set is hands down my favorite for hex sockets. However they dont make them in the smaller sizes and the only Torx sockets they make are ⅜ drive. So I have rounded the PBswiss set out with Snapon, and have a full set of Snapon in inch sizes. However I have been less than thrilled with the Snapon hex and Torx sockets. The Snapon hex shafts dont stay in the sockets very well. Plus they tend to bend on the smaller sizes and I have deformed the T25 one quite a few times.

The Nepros seem to be way better made, are more compact and the chrome is way nicer than the Snapon. I am a bit concerned that the business ends are not ground far enough down... Time will tell.

The broaching and the socket retention on the Nepros is way nicer too. Snapon on Left Nepros on Right.
I've swapped the Nepros into the rotation and we will see how the hold up for a few months. If I like them, I think
I am going to buy a set of the long and short ¼ Torx as well as some of their Hex to fill out what PBSwiss doesn't make in ¼ Drive.

I also picked up the ¼ and ⅜ compact spinners for the ratchets.

They add a bit of length, but they do fill nice.

They also dont add too much bulk either.

Time will tell if I find them useful or annoying. We will see if they stay on.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

Todays project is the Shigura brake conversion.

Since the master cylinder seal went out on my Magura's and replacement parts are a month out, I ordered a set of Shimano XTR levers to replace them with. Plus the Magura levers being made out of plastic, are in my mind the weakest link in that brake system. Not to mention I'm not the biggest fan of how there lever blades feel, but after 800 miles I did get used to them.

This consists of pairing Shimano levers with Magura calipers. The premise here is that the Shimano (4 piston compatible levers) have a longer but smaller diameter master cylinder bore than the Magura levers. This compared with the very large Magura 4 caliper pistons creates a much more favorable hydraulic ratio. In short, it theoretically gives you more power. I this case I am using the new XTR BL-M9120 Levers. In reality any of the XX2X or XX1X series of levers from Shimano will work as they are all 4 piston capable.

Everything on the Magura Caliper end stays the same.

You must use the Shimano hose barbs and olives. L to R is Magura, Sram and Shimano. The Magura barb has the longest head of the 3, Shimano has the thinest. Plus Shimano olives are a full MM shorter than the Sram and Magura offerings. In a pinch you could probably get by with mixing up the Magura / Sram olives (just dont cross contaminate those fluids), but Shimano needs its only barbs and Olives.

Here is a selection of various hose nuts, L to R matura native, Magura that goes into their lever banjo swivel, Shimano external thread, and Sram. The Magrua, Sram and Shimano internal style all use the same threads and are roughly the same length. These are interchangeabe.

These new Shimano levers are I-spec EV so they are close enough of a fit, you can use them with the Sram matchmaker system, no adapter needed. Thats a Sram match maker nut in the Shimano stock lever mount.

With the proper barb and olive on the hose, the brake line gets torqued to 6NM. I then bled the system, using a syringe at the caliper and a Shimano funnel at the lever, I pushed all new fluid threw the system. Pulled suction with lever, then pushed through and repeated a few times. Closed off the caliper bleed port, and then finished bleeding the lever with the funnel.

To compare the two systems, I left the stock Magura system on the font and went for a ride.

All I can say is WOW, the Shigura system has a stupid amount of power over the stock Magura. The stock Maura's never made me wish for more power, as they where plenty strong enough to stop the E-bike on even the steepest terrain here in Bellingham. However the Shigura setup blows it out of the water. The rear brake is now so strong, it makes the Magura front feel like its useless. The rear Shigura system is so strong, it will full stop the bike on its own, and make you want to catapult over the front. So you need to get comfortable with its power. For reference with the E-bike in trail mode, you can still pedal (with a bunch of resistance) against the stock Magura front brake. You can not pedal against the Shigura rear brake.

The modulation feels great. However, the Shigura setup, has that same vague bite point partway not the lever travel that all Shimano's are known for. I've ridden enough Shimano systems, I am used to it. I do prefer the very firm bite point of the Codes tho, but this system is way stronger than the stock codes, stock Magura,s or even the stock Saints. I will be converting the front next.

 

[fishwatcher]

In this post, I'm combining two interests of mine, bike maintenance and vises.

Does anybody have experience with the Park Tools WH-2 or the WH-1 Wheel Holders? The WH-1 looks great, i.e. very versatile, but at $117.. it is really expensive. The WH-2 is supposed to be a single position holder, i.e.

Clamp it vertically to a table (with a quick clamp, since in a regular vise, you won't have enough clearance for the vertical position)


or clamp it horizontally in a vise..

Using a vise, I wonder if you could simply clamp it at an angle, instead of being limited to using it horizontally, so you can get that angle wheel position also? Just swivel the vise in that picture by 90 degrees, clamp the WH-2 at an angle, instead of horizontally.

There are bolt into work bench top options too.. but my interest is in using it with a quality 3" - 4.5" vise.

Has anybody tried this? Thanks!

 

[slowtwitch73]

Be dead easy to make your own from scratch or use bigbluesaw or sendcutsend.

 

[fishwatcher]

Be dead easy to make your own from scratch or use bigbluesaw or sendcutsend.

Probably.. but for $65.. although a little pricey.. it's a lot easier for me personally to buy it from Park Tools. Others on this forum are way way way beyond me in terms of capability in making things. In fact, that's why I'm here. To learn from them

 

[fishwatcher]

In this post, I'm combining two interests of mine, bike maintenance and vises.

Does anybody have experience with the Park Tools WH-2 or the WH-1 Wheel Holders? The WH-1 looks great, i.e. very versatile, but at $117.. it is really expensive. The WH-2 is supposed to be a single position holder, i.e.

Clamp it vertically to a table (with a quick clamp, since in a regular vise, you won't have enough clearance for the vertical position)


or clamp it horizontally in a vise..

Using a vise, I wonder if you could simply clamp it at an angle, instead of being limited to using it horizontally, so you can get that angle wheel position also? Just swivel the vise in that picture by 90 degrees, clamp the WH-2 at an angle, instead of horizontally.

There are bolt into work bench top options too.. but my interest is in using it with a quality 3" - 4.5" vise.

Has anybody tried this? Thanks!

I finally bought the Park Tools WH-2. It’s a sturdy piece of kit.



I wondered if this lower cost version could be used at different angles, and I think the answer is yes.




I could definitely see how the WH-1 at double the price, would be a lot more robust and refined for shop use. You wouldn’t have to get the angle just right when trying to clamp at an angle.

In practice, as long as the WH-2 doesn’t slip while removing a tough tire, using a strong vise, it should be good.

Here are a few different angle and vise or clamp combinations I’ve tried.

 

[ZenkiS14]

Just found this thread, happy to find it!

Here is a quick tour around my home bike shop:

 

[bonneyman]

I think I'm going to break down and just buy new pads. It really pisses me off after I spent so much money. I took the kids on a bike ride through the neighborhood tonight and I thought I was going to snap the levers trying to lock up the tires.....with dual piston brakes! After quite a few rides and attempts to bed these things, I still can't safely ride down any grade.



I went and rode National (a well known trail in Phoenix) with my buddies and went down the famous Warerfall. I got to the bottom and my buddy says "holy hell you went down that fast!"......"yep, I forgot how ****** my brakes are as it was all uphill to this point!"

I've had good results with Kool Stop brake pads.

Kool Stop International - High Performance Bicycle Brake Pads Since 1977

 

[slowtwitch73]

Here's an attachment for a Park stand I made up to help with holding bikes with droppers, short seat posts etc etc.

 

[Pexto]

Great idea! And I love the Cinelli plugs.

 

[fishwatcher]

Here's an attachment for a Park stand I made up to help with holding bikes with droppers, short seat posts etc etc.

The Salsa Flip-Off QR lever to size the grip is awesome!

 

[sumobro1]

Here's an attachment for a Park stand I made up to help with holding bikes with droppers, short seat posts etc etc.

looks cool but I just keep good bushes in the clamp, use a shop towel and clamp that dropper.

 

[slowtwitch73]

^^^ Doesnt work for too short a post and not great for droppers with ext line/cable.

 

[piehammer]

Eldi T-handle I picked up in an eBay lot.

 

[shibertus]

The Shimano green translucent grease is the goods.

I am willing to bet just about every one of these is repackaged off the shelf industrial lubes. The questions is finding what one it is, so many times, its easier, albeit more expensive to buy the bike branded ones.

The Shimano Dura-Ace translucent green grease is Motorex Bike Grease 2000

 

[Odd-job]

Thought you guys would find this interesting/funny.

$75 DT Swiss "lock ring" tool welded onto a 3/4 to 1/2 impact adapter. My aircat that can do Honda crank bolts with its eyes closed still failed. 3/4 to 1/2 adapter also failed. This was after plenty of heat + penetrating oil + the vise and pipe strapped to the wheel + two guys on it. We actually managed to deform the end of the DT swiss tool with a large Bahco Swedish pipe wrench before welding the adapter onto it. Currently trying to cut and chip the ring out of the DT 350 hub now... The new DT swiss 240 does not have this horrid ratchet ring design anymore...