billspreston
Well-known member
How the F did I miss this thread. My people!
The Bicycle (Specialty) Tools Thread
- Thread starter neersighted
- Start date
Odd-job
Well-known member
probably a decent amount of DRPD customers peruse this thread, myself included!
Grant Gunderson
Well-known member
I’ve always just clamped the tool in my vise and then turned the wheel to remove. You get a ton of leverage that way. Those lock rings should ALWAYS be installed with Anti Sieze. The star ratchet design is one of the most efficient and simple hub designs around. A bunch of companies make an impact adapter now too. DT swiss impact adapterThought you guys would find this interesting/funny.
$75 DT Swiss "lock ring" tool welded onto a 3/4 to 1/2 impact adapter. My aircat that can do Honda crank bolts with its eyes closed still failed. 3/4 to 1/2 adapter also failed. This was after plenty of heat + penetrating oil + the vise and pipe strapped to the wheel + two guys on it. We actually managed to deform the end of the DT swiss tool with a large Bahco Swedish pipe wrench before welding the adapter onto it. Currently trying to cut and chip the ring out of the DT 350 hub now... The new DT swiss 240 does not have this horrid ratchet ring design anymore...
Odd-job
Well-known member
Thanks for the link to the socket with the built in hex. Would have been better to purchase this than the DT swiss tool the first time around.
Vise on a tool with a pipe strapped to the wheel for extra leverage didn't work on this one. Seized like no other. +1 on the anti seize. Pretty sure the steel ring in the aluminum hub shell has frozen solid together.
Might try some high flow air fittings on my impact next to try getting a little extra torque.
jonesg
Well-known member
did you check for reverse thread ?
Grant Gunderson
Well-known member
It’s not reverse threaded. The lock ring tends to tighten as you pedal forward. If it was left hand thread it would unscrew under normal riding.
I gave up on my air impact years ago. My M18 has way more power than it ever did. You may want to find a drift or socket that fits over the ring and give it a good whack with a hammer. That shock just might loosen it so you can use an impact on it.
InjectorService
Well-known member
Just subscribing to this. I'm a used to be biker. Hopefully I can get back in the saddle soon.
jonesg
Well-known member
my peugot was reverse thread.
Grant Gunderson
Well-known member
Haha, well it was French…
Looking for recommendations for a lightweight cassette tool for traveling with my bike. Currently using a Park FR-5.2, but with the 1" external hex, carrying a wrench of that size is pretty heavy. Have looked at the Abbie crombie but $$. Mainly looking to keep the size and weight of my packed bag as low as possible. Anyone have something they like?
billspreston
Well-known member
Crombie socket + 3/8" ratchet or breaker bar? You may have a 3/8 drive in the bag already... or eventually have a need for one.
Grant Gunderson
Well-known member
I have tried a bunch of options and for traveling nothing beats the abbey crombie. Especially since it will best inside of the handle of their chain whip when traveling. I also have their socket crombie but only use it for torquing cassettes or doing suspension work… it’s used on rock shock forks.
I love a quality tool but for some reason have not been able to stomach the cost for anything from Abbey. Maybe this is the push I need. Do you have the regular or “super light” handle?
Grant Gunderson
Well-known member
I have this one Dual sided if I was to do it again I’d buy the new TI version. It’s one of my most used tools as it does cassettes and more and more companies are using that interface on forks, pedals etc.
The Abbey tools are all very nice and make anything from Park look like ****.
I have a soft spot for old freewheel removers. For awhile several years ago freinds gave me their bikes to service, and by golly if every single ride had a different freewheel. So I started picking them up wherever I found them. Then a bike shop went out of business and the guy let me dig thru his box of removers on his last open day for any I didn't have. Grabbed 8 of them for $5 a piece. They were like gold to me!
kppolich
Well-known member
Love this forum and just found this thread so here's my basement setup.
Bike stable:
www.pedalroom.com
Main room, SteadyRack Storage, and assistant Marley
Kickr/Zwift setup w/ 3D Printer
Toolbox and homemade wheel stand
Fold down bike stand
Second room kit storage and gf's bike/cross wheels
Bike stable:
kppolich - Pedal Room
www.pedalroom.com
Main room, SteadyRack Storage, and assistant Marley
Kickr/Zwift setup w/ 3D Printer
Toolbox and homemade wheel stand
Fold down bike stand
Second room kit storage and gf's bike/cross wheels
pelletman
Well-known member
JRC3
Well-known member
I have a cheap one that works well enough... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09899JWSS/?tag=atomicindus08-20
JRC3
Well-known member
Do it. For most of this year I haven't ridden and I feel like shiet. The older you get the more you need to keep on it. I'm 53 and don't want to start falling behind and drowning.
The broken component is a star fangled nut. The silver piece is headset top cap. The star fangled nut anchors the screw through the top cap to take up the slack and preload the headset bearings. The nut needs to be set at the proper depth in the steerer tube to function correctly.
merkyworks
Well-known member
Make sure to apply a little grease to the threads of the top cap socket head screw. Sweat likes to drip and work it’s way down into those threads then corrode/seize up that screw.
pelletman
Well-known member
Thanks! How do I figure out the proper depth?
billspreston
Well-known member
10-15mm – you obviously want to ensure the star nut goes in plumb. There are "star nut setter" tools to do this (I use park TNS-4), but it's not something you're likely to use very often. It can be done without the specialized tool if you are careful – I have seen a 1" socket with an extension used as a makeshift tool in a pinch.
Grant Gunderson
Well-known member
The proper depth is 15mm. But it’s not super critical. I have the Park tool versions for both 1-⅛ (standard) and 1.5” steerer tubes. They are the least used tools I own. Especially the 1.5” version! Pretty easy to just use a drift like I did back in the day. Remember all the star nut is doing is holding the fork and headset stack / stem tight while you tighten the stem clamp bolts. You should then back it off a bit after.
Meursault74
Well-known member
Why not just replace the chain? It's a wear item, readily available, and doesn't cost much................. unless it's an excuse to buy more tools. Then proceed.
What's a "rusty bike wrench". Is that specifically designed to use on a rusty bikes or is it a wrench that has rust on it that you use on your bike?
JRC3
Well-known member
Yep, I get KMCs on Amazon for under $20.
Grant Gunderson
Well-known member
Rusty chains are not worth saving. I do like to periodically clean my in my ultrasonic cleaner then relube. Seems to help extend the life of the drive train.
fishwatcher
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 26, 2023
- Messages
- 751
Pro Bike Tool shows up a lot in my Amazon account and on FaceBook I get a lot of PBT ads as well. Their 1/4” torque wrench sets for $70 -$80 looks almost exactly like a set I have from Vibrelli that sells for $40 and one from EPAuto for $42.
When I got my Vibrelli set brand new it smelled like cigarettes to me. I emailed them and was sent another new set, which also smelled like cigarettes. I kept both. I let them air out, wiped them down with alcohol and while there’s still a hint of the smell, I just ignore it.
The tip of the T25 socket twisted after some use so I’ve replaced it with one from Crescent. I can’t remember what happened to the 6mm, either I lost it or snapped it and threw it away. I have replaced that with a Capri Tools 6mm 1/4” bit.
It’s a good looking set, packaged nicely, I guess the torque function works well, but the bits aren’t the best.
Meursault74
Well-known member
Two for the price of one, huh? Sounds like you got a smoking deal.Pro Bike Tool shows up a lot in my Amazon account and on FaceBook I get a lot of PBT ads as well. Their 1/4” torque wrench sets for $70 -$80 looks almost exactly like a set I have from Vibrelli that sells for $40 and one from EPAuto for $42.
When I got my Vibrelli set brand new it smelled like cigarettes to me. I emailed them and was sent another new set, which also smelled like cigarettes. I kept both. I let them air out, wiped them down with alcohol and while there’s still a hint of the smell, I just ignore it.
The tip of the T25 socket twisted after some use so I’ve replaced it with one from Crescent. I can’t remember what happened to the 6mm, either I lost it or snapped it and threw it away. I have replaced that with a Capri Tools 6mm 1/4” bit.
It’s a good looking set, packaged nicely, I guess the torque function works well, but the bits aren’t the best.
Nah. Just ride fast enough to whisk the sweat backwards away from the bike!
Those blowmold platic cases usually smell like that.Pro Bike Tool shows up a lot in my Amazon account and on FaceBook I get a lot of PBT ads as well. Their 1/4” torque wrench sets for $70 -$80 looks almost exactly like a set I have from Vibrelli that sells for $40 and one from EPAuto for $42.
When I got my Vibrelli set brand new it smelled like cigarettes to me. I emailed them and was sent another new set, which also smelled like cigarettes. I kept both. I let them air out, wiped them down with alcohol and while there’s still a hint of the smell, I just ignore it.
The tip of the T25 socket twisted after some use so I’ve replaced it with one from Crescent. I can’t remember what happened to the 6mm, either I lost it or snapped it and threw it away. I have replaced that with a Capri Tools 6mm 1/4” bit.
It’s a good looking set, packaged nicely, I guess the torque function works well, but the bits aren’t the best.
fishwatcher
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 26, 2023
- Messages
- 751
Interesting! Thanks for replying.
fishwatcher
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 26, 2023
- Messages
- 751
I’ve been going down a rathole on bike pumps lately. Here are a few thoughts on what I have.
Specialized AirTool Sport. This pump is built with quality and a great price and both replacement seals and replacement hose/chucks are available at very reasonable prices. The chuck accepts both presta and schrader valves and has a tight seal for both.
I’ve had mine for many years, replaced the chuck (which has more metal than the original), but have not figured out how to replace the hose since I don’t know what tool would help me get the old one off. The old hose is still good, but it’d be nice to know how to remove the old one when I need to replace it. Looks like it’ll just screw off but I can’t do it by hand and when I put a tool to it it started to scratch the fitting and the base.
Silca is known for making quality floor pumps and when they came out with a gravel/mtb specific Terra pump (and had a sale price of $99), I broke down and got it. Here’s a much more detailed review of the Silca Terra. What makes this pump unique is the graduated gauge. Half of the gauge goes up to 30 psi and the rest goes up to 120 psi. This gives you a lot of granularity when trying to dial in or even see your psi on higher volume tires like for mtb or gravel bikes. The air chuck accepts presta or schrader valves, but you need to unthread and flip it to change from presta to schrader. The chuck feels like it is very high quality and it is replaceable. Silca will replace it if it goes bad under their lifetime warranty.
The unexpected surprise on this pump is actually how it is NOT as rebuildable as Silca’s other pumps. You cannot unscrew the top of the barrel to get to the leather gasket inside the pump. The chuck and gauge are replaceable, not sure about the hose. This was confirmed by Silca’s customer support. I’m disappointed about the lack of serviceability, but expect this pump to last many years regardless.
My last inflation tool observation is with the Silca Hiro chuck. This is a high end chuck. It’s built with stainless steel parts and costs $60-$70 at regular prices. During a Black Friday sale I got it for $29. Rather than use it to replace one of the other chucks on the above pumps which both work well, I added it to an Azuno digital gauge and inflator I use with my scuba tank (and an old regulator). The Azuno inflator required a 1/4 NPT adapter to work with my regulator.
To install the Hiro chuck, I needed to buy a $12 schrader adapter. It seems to fit well with friction alone, although I may get a hose clamp eventually. You can adjust the fit with a knurled ring on the chuck. The Hiro chuck is like bike tool jewelry and many report it to be the best chuck you can get. I don’t really know about that, but it certainly looks and feels premium.
Specialized AirTool Sport. This pump is built with quality and a great price and both replacement seals and replacement hose/chucks are available at very reasonable prices. The chuck accepts both presta and schrader valves and has a tight seal for both.
I’ve had mine for many years, replaced the chuck (which has more metal than the original), but have not figured out how to replace the hose since I don’t know what tool would help me get the old one off. The old hose is still good, but it’d be nice to know how to remove the old one when I need to replace it. Looks like it’ll just screw off but I can’t do it by hand and when I put a tool to it it started to scratch the fitting and the base.
Silca is known for making quality floor pumps and when they came out with a gravel/mtb specific Terra pump (and had a sale price of $99), I broke down and got it. Here’s a much more detailed review of the Silca Terra. What makes this pump unique is the graduated gauge. Half of the gauge goes up to 30 psi and the rest goes up to 120 psi. This gives you a lot of granularity when trying to dial in or even see your psi on higher volume tires like for mtb or gravel bikes. The air chuck accepts presta or schrader valves, but you need to unthread and flip it to change from presta to schrader. The chuck feels like it is very high quality and it is replaceable. Silca will replace it if it goes bad under their lifetime warranty.
The unexpected surprise on this pump is actually how it is NOT as rebuildable as Silca’s other pumps. You cannot unscrew the top of the barrel to get to the leather gasket inside the pump. The chuck and gauge are replaceable, not sure about the hose. This was confirmed by Silca’s customer support. I’m disappointed about the lack of serviceability, but expect this pump to last many years regardless.
My last inflation tool observation is with the Silca Hiro chuck. This is a high end chuck. It’s built with stainless steel parts and costs $60-$70 at regular prices. During a Black Friday sale I got it for $29. Rather than use it to replace one of the other chucks on the above pumps which both work well, I added it to an Azuno digital gauge and inflator I use with my scuba tank (and an old regulator). The Azuno inflator required a 1/4 NPT adapter to work with my regulator.
To install the Hiro chuck, I needed to buy a $12 schrader adapter. It seems to fit well with friction alone, although I may get a hose clamp eventually. You can adjust the fit with a knurled ring on the chuck. The Hiro chuck is like bike tool jewelry and many report it to be the best chuck you can get. I don’t really know about that, but it certainly looks and feels premium.
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Fellow bike mechanics - I’m looking to expand my 1/4” ratchet because… well for no real reason, if I’m being honest. I guess I just want to get my hands on a Nepros ratchet to try one for myself. Right now I’m debating between the standard NBR290 and the longer NBR290L. Does anyone who happens to own both have any input for me? Do you find yourself reaching for one length vs. the other?
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I have the NBR290. It is really tiny.
But honestly, long enough for the torque I'm prepared to put on it. I like it for being so compact, and I do not think I would need a longer handle. I rather reach for the 3/8" in that case. For up to M5 or M6, this is long enough to snap the bolt with ease.
Odd-job
Well-known member
Thinking of trying these Nepros ratchets myself while the Japanese yen is still low relative to the dollar. I think between 5 vs 7 inch ratchets for bike wrenching I would go with the 7 inch. There really isn't much swing/access issues with bikes on stands and if you want less torque hold the ratchet closer to the head. The only low torque situation I seem to use the ratchet otherwise seems to be bottle cage bolts where swing length isn't an issue. I also tend to reach for T handle allens 80%+ of the time, so usually I am using the ratchet when I am not reaching for a torque wrench, but need some leverage. This is usually to loosen 10 newton meter + stuff like thru axles and seatpost bolts where my weak sauce T-rex cycling pu$$y arms can't apply enough twist to a T handle. Sorry for providing more info than you wanted to know
gleman
Well-known member
After a 35 year hiatus, I decided to ride a bike again.
I found a project bike, a 1992 Trek 930.
I'm looking to replace the sprockets and strip and paint the frame and change the handlebars for city riding.
I picked up this stand so I'm not working on the floor and I'm going to make a adapter to go into my workmate or mount it to a bench for support.
I'm looking for a halfway decent set of tools to help with the disassembly like the bottom bearing and the rear gears.
I'm not looking to go in the bike repair business but I'd like better than the cheapest ones on Amazon.
I found a project bike, a 1992 Trek 930.
I'm looking to replace the sprockets and strip and paint the frame and change the handlebars for city riding.
I picked up this stand so I'm not working on the floor and I'm going to make a adapter to go into my workmate or mount it to a bench for support.
I'm looking for a halfway decent set of tools to help with the disassembly like the bottom bearing and the rear gears.
I'm not looking to go in the bike repair business but I'd like better than the cheapest ones on Amazon.
ericm
Well-known member
I bolted a chunk of roughly 4x4 3/8" angle to the bottom of a Park PRS-7 bench mount repair stand. I clamp the angle in a bench vise when I want to use the bike stand. You can only get to one side of the bike easily but it's not a problem most of the time. For some bottom bracket removals I turn the bike around in the stand.
Odd-job
Well-known member
Welcome back. Riding a bike seems to be the one sport I don't lose interest in and have been able to incorporate in my habitual routines with some occasional running mixed in.
Amazing where technology has come. Just bought a new road bike after a 10+year hiatus of forsaking roads/drivers and have to say the electric actuated shifting (Shimano di2), hydraulic disc brakes, tubeless tires, radar proximity sensor tail light, and aero features (carbon wheels and frame) has made riding more pleasurable for me. Its kind of making up for the fact that I am getting older, slower and worth more dead than alive.
gleman
Well-known member
No kidding about the advanced stuff in bikes!
My neighbor took up ironmanning in his retirement and I can one-finger lift his bike. My other neighbors went to assisted bikes and trikes that propell themselves with little peddleing.