If it’s the banjo oring you will often see dust accumulation there as it sticks to the oil weeping out.
Don’t see very many of those around Bellingham these days. It’s mostly Shimano and TRP now.
If shimano are a pain in the *** to bleed you either have an issue with a seal in the system or your bleed tools as the funnel at the lever and syringe at the caliper to push fluid into the funnel is as easy as it gets.
Many times the issue will be the size of the hex in the fastener. Use a 2.5 mm hex (Snap On is a good source) key with a good amount of steady downward pressure and a moderate amount of rotational force and you should be fine. Using a t handle tool is going to be an issue- they work well in some instances but can be a problem in others. Use the conventional L shaped hex key. I have have been in the Bike Biz for years- too many!!
I’ve found Snapon’s hex tooling to be garbage especially the small stuff as it tends to twist and doesn’t stay pressed into its sockets. Nepros is very well made, but the fit quality and durability of the PBswiss hex sockets is by far the best I’ve found
If you have an inconsistent bite point it’s air getting into the system. What you are describing on the lift is certainly air in the system and/ or a sign that the oil needs to get flushed out. If it’s discolored when you’re bleeding it’s a good idea to flush it. If it’s happening after a bleed I’d inspect the hose for any possible damage, next I’d install new compression fittings on the hose ends. I’ve found the majority of the times the compression fittings were not properly tightened for the olives to properly compress and seal. Like all compression fittings, Too much torque and too little can both cause minor leaks for air to enter the system. This is one of those cases where a torque wrench is pretty important but 99% of bike mechanics don’t use them on brake lines.
Shigura's are always cool, I'm doing the same with some MT6 calipers we recovered from a customer's bike and XT levers a friend had some extras of.
Thanks, it to be fair my home shop is quickly turning into a full time suspension shop…. I’m actively looking for a commercial space to move into.
Shimano are easy to bleed, for the most part. However they suffer from what's called the wandering bite point. Due to false specced viscosity of the mineral oil and the slow retraction of the piston seals the fluid doesn't fully return to the reservoir and master cylinder piston and if you press repeatedly every time the brake perceivingly bites in a different position. Supposedly they fixed that with the new electronic xtr.
Even on perfectly bled calipers this was persistent. And shimanos never weren't that tricky. The problem was the one I described in an above post. Not my opinion, shimano confirmed it. It puts to rest my head scratching, having completely bled the brake, completely vertical (took if from the bike and had it hang) and it still having wandering bite point
I’ll bite ... what motorbike chain lube is $2.99?
www.toolman.gr
That link is all Greek to me.I'm in Greece. But yeah, skipped the el cheapo ones and here's one for 3,80eur.
Wurth Multi Λιπαντικό 5 σε 1 150mL
Wurth Multi Λιπαντικό 5 σε 1 150mL Ευέλικτο λάδι για πολλές χρήσεις και για μεγάλο εύρος εφαρμογών. Λιπαίνει, καθαρίζει και συντηρεί.
Cheapest no name bicycle chain lube is 10eur, 3x the price.
Low cost doesn't mean a good idea...That link is all Greek to me.
That one looks like a Spray. So, it has propellant as well as lubricant. That has to factor in on the reduced cost.
Personally, I wouldn't lube a bike chain with anything that sprays out. I like to drip a drop on each roller. More controlled, less waste and mess.
I've never done it, but some mix up engine oil and mineral sprits and use that to drip on bike chains. The ultimate low cost option per unit volume it seems.
I've been using "white lightning" drip wax lube since the 90's. It works well for me. Dirt/sand doesn't stick/accumulate. I don't really ever need to clean my chain except when it's brand new (to get off that cosmoline they sometimes pack them with. )I get about 150 road miles before I feel I need to lube my chain again. WL In our winters, though it doesn't last that long. If I used an oil, it would be a mess.
back when I used to actually walk into the local bike shops, everyone of them smelled like Tri-flow. I used to use it back then too on the chains. Not any more. I still use it spoke on ******* and derailleurs.
What were your issues? I’ve been running hot wax exclusively for about 7 years and love it. My chain is always perfectly clean and dry at all times. I have a few chains pre-waxed so every 400 or so miles I just swap chains and then wax a batch when a bunch are ready.
That was the first bike lube I ever used. It’s slick.. but the chain gets dirty pretty quickly.
Silca SS is good stuff if used right.
In the wet it just didn’t last. Chain rusted quickly and was noisy as hell.
The wax is much more sensitive to application than the wax zealots would make it seem. At least in my experience. Most crockpots are too high a temp and you get poor adhesion / longevity. If you can get the temp right it does really well, even in the wet.
. There's a terrific article here that explores the science of each lube, kindly concluding they're all equally good at doing exactly what each was designed for.
Back to bike tools I gave pretty good selection of bearing tools with a modified Abbey press to use 8mm trapezoid thread and the Park suspension bearing drift set. That does 95% of what’s out there. 
but then I can't buy a new tool