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The Concrete Underground

ConCretin

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Joined
Jan 20, 2011
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3,378
Location
Central Maine
After years of planning, we’ve finally started construction of a new home including an attached 25x25 garage and adjoining 28x28 shop. Like so many of you, I’ve been entertained and educated by GJ over the years and am excited to contribute with a build thread of my own. Let me start with a little background.

The project is located in Maine on 25 acres on the East bank of the beautiful Kennebec River. My wife and I searched for land on the river for many years before buying this parcel about 10 years ago.

The land was originally the site of an 1800‘s era ice house. Workers harvested ice from the river in winter and stored it in huge wooden structures packed in sawdust until summer when it was sold for refrigeration. The topography of the land still bears the imprint of that enterprise including old stone foundations for stables and barracks. There is even an old pier that was used to load the ice on schooner ships that would carry it all over the world.

I’ve already constructed some of the infrastructure including a 2,000 foot driveway that winds its way down to the river. Underground power takes a more direct route and measures a little over 1000 feet. The septic system is in and the wells are drilled. The actual build site has been cleared and we hauled in several thousand yards of fill to bring the grade up.

I've also constructed another garage on the property. It measures 28x32 and is located up near the main road. It’s primarily an unheated storage building although it does have a couple interesting features including an overhead bridge crane and a bifold door that was used so as not to block access to the crane. I use this garage to house snow removal equipment and as overflow space for the smallish shop down by the water.

The house is located in an environmentally protected area called the Shoreland Zone because it is within 250' of a body of water. As a result we underwent an extensive permit process and must abide by rules covering run off, tree cutting and set backs. At its nearest point the house edges up to just over 75 feet from the high water mark at the top of a 30 foot slope down to the shoreline.

Now for the interesting part. The house and garage will be of modern design and constructed entirely of concrete and steel. It won’t have a single stick of wood in it and will look something like this:

DSCN0036-1.jpg

In case you are wondering why on earth we would build a concrete house, it's mostly for the challenge and novelty of it. I own a heavy commercial/industrial concrete construction business and do structural concrete on projects ranging from bridges to hospitals to waste water treatment plants. I thought that since I’m in the business, it would be cheaper than a traditional wood framed house. Like so many other things I assumed at the beginning of this process, this too has since proved wrong.

If you look to the back right of the photo, you’ll see the garage and shop. The 25x25 garage will be accessed by the wider 18’ door and will be for parking our daily drivers. The single garage door services the 28x28 shop. It was one bay wide when the model was created but has predictably grown wider and deeper since. This pushed the structure back into the slope and almost entirely underground hence the thread title.

The garage and shop have traditional reinforced concrete foundations and slabs on grade. The superstructure walls are constructed of insulating concrete forms (ICF’s) with an 8” concrete core contained within 2 1/2” foam sides. The low slope roof is a composite of steel, concrete and styrofoam that will be difficult to explain and since I’m running up the word count, I’ll come back to it later.

Heat will be in-floor radiant utilizing geothermal heat pumps fed by two standing column water wells. Electrical will be pretty standard with lots of lights and outlets including 220 for compressors, welders, etc. There is also a small water closet and a shop sink.

Though it doesn’t show in the plans, I’ve added a compressor closet to the left of the bath that will be accessed from the garage. This should keep the noise down in the shop area. An air supply system will be constructed of PVC.............not really, just checking to see if your still awake - it will be black iron pipe.

Walls and ceiling will be gypsum wall board affixed to the ICF’s or metal furring over rigid insulation on the foundation walls. The floor will probably be porcelain tiles. Other features will include an overhead bridge crane, Rotary in-floor lift and a large clerestory window bay on the roof to provide natural light and clearance for the lift.

Here is a basic floor plan that hopefully completes the overall picture. The actual shop layout hasn’t been developed yet but rest assured, this will be a working garage not a show place.

DSCN0028-1.jpg

So, if you haven’t already bailed for less windy threads, I hope you’ll hang around for the build. I obviously intend to focus on primarily on the garage space but since the overall project is a little unusual, I hope you’ll feel free to ask questions about anything you care to.

I feel like I’ve worked and prepared my entire life to build this house and would be honored to share it with all of you. I’ll be back shortly with photos and I promise that in the future, I’ll try to post more pictures than paragraphs.



If you're not familiar with concrete terminology, the following is a glossary of terms as I have used them in this thread. An expanded list can be found in The Concrete Underground Glossary.

Air Entrained Concrete - Concrete that has been treated with a chemical admixture that produces millions of microscopic air bubbles that allow it to expand and contract under freeze / thaw conditions without damage.

Architectural concrete (AC) - A concrete structure that will be exposed to view and is constructed in a manner that results in a smooth uniform surface with minimal form lines.

Blockout - Formwork to create an opening in a concrete wall or floor.

Buck - A form that creates a door or window opening in an ICF wall and stays in place to provide a nailing surface for the door or window and finishes.

Control Joint - A saw cut, formed or tooled groove in concrete intended to create a plane of weakness that encourages a controlled and easily hidden shrinkage crack.

Dowels - Reinforcing bars that protrude from the concrete to connect it to future wall or slab placements.

LiteDeck - A brand of stay-in-place form used to build concrete floors or roofs consisting of styrofoam planks with longitudinal 'troughs' that create integral beams when filled with concrete.

Geothermal - A process of heating or cooling a home utilizing a constant temperature water source such as groundwater or body of water and heat pumps. We're using an open loop system that pumps water directly from a well, through the heat pumps and back into the well.

Gravel - This term varies greatly by region. In Maine gravel refers to a granular material with a well graded mix of aggregate from fines up to stone of 2" or greater. As opposed to crushed stone, which has no fines.

High Range Water Reducer - Also called a super-plasticizer is a chemical admixture added to concrete to increase flowability without additional water resulting in a slump of 7 to 9 inches (see slump)

Insulating Concrete Forms (ICF) - Stackable styrofoam blocks that are filled with concrete to create structural walls. Blocks consist of two styrofoam faces held together with plastic webs that also act as screw blocks for attaching drywall and siding.

Midrange Water Reducer - A chemical admixture added to concrete to increase flowability without additional water resulting in a slump of 5 to 6 inches (see slump)

Rustication - Strips of wood or other material attached to the face of a form to create a reveal in the concrete when removed.

Screed - A straightedge typically 2 x 4 inches used by one or more men to level concrete by dragging it across the surface.

Sleeve - Something placed in concrete formwork, usually a piece of pipe, to create an opening for something to pass through the wall after it is stripped.

Shoring - Temporary heavy duty staging that supports formwork or LiteDeck planks under elevated slabs.

Strongback - A vertical stiffener added to concrete formwork to plumb a wall and/or transfer loads to ties or braces.

Slump - A measure of the flowability of concrete typically used to determine water content. A 12" tapered metal cone is filled with concrete and pulled off and the distance the concrete 'slumps' is measured. Most concrete mix designs are based on enough water to achieve a 4" slump, which is a reasonably workable mix.

ThermoMass - A proprietary system that allows rigid insulation to be installed in a formed concrete wall. The insulation board is held in place with plastic spacers allow concrete to flow on all sides.

Tie - The device that holds the two sides of a concrete form together resisting the pressure applied by concrete. Ties come in a broad range of types and materials for both proprietary and generic form systems.

Waler - A horizontal stiffener added to concrete formwork to straighten a wall and/or transfer loads to ties or braces.

Water/Cement Ratio - Determines the ultimate compressive strength of concrete. The greater the proportion of cement relative to mix water, the higher the strength.
 
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ConCretin

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Jan 20, 2011
Messages
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Location
Central Maine
Here's where the garage/shop will go.

DSCN0010-1.jpg

We cleared and graded the lot before the design was complete. The garage ended up back into the slope so we had to take down a few more trees.

DSCN0021-1.jpg

You can also see the clearing where the underground power comes down over the hill.

Here's the view from the garage:

DSCN0014-1.jpg
 
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-Brent-

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Dec 23, 2009
Messages
4,709
Location
Utah
Really cool!

I love the Kennebec River. Years back, I did several rafting trips on the Kennebec, Dead and Penobscot. I got to mountain bike throughout a lot of the area too. I wonder how much it has changed up there?
 
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ConCretin

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Jan 20, 2011
Messages
3,378
Location
Central Maine
Really cool!

I love the Kennebec River. Years back, I did several rafting trips on the Kennebec, Dead and Penobscot. I got to mountain bike throughout a lot of the area too. I wonder how much it has changed up there?

It's probably changed a lot less than you think especially the areas you referred to. Maine's a sleepy little state and we do a good job of protecting the things that make it special
 

AZBarracuda

Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2012
Messages
14
Location
Placerville, CA
Perhaps you could modify your picture postings to make them a bit larger. I'm only getting 360x270 pics. Double (or even triple) that size would be nice and easier to see details.
 
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ConCretin

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Joined
Jan 20, 2011
Messages
3,378
Location
Central Maine
Perhaps you could modify your picture postings to make them a bit larger. I'm only getting 360x270 pics. Double (or even triple) that size would be nice and easier to see details.

Yea, sorry about that. To be honest, I can't seem to figure out how to fix it. If someone can help me out, I'll go back and change them. Please PM me if you know what I'm doing wrong.
 

Oggy

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Joined
Jan 2, 2011
Messages
1,295
Location
Central New York
My Dad does concrete, gunite to be specific, he has talked about building a house out of it, but finances haven't cooperated.

Are you pouring/pumping the whole house, or using shotcrete, or a combination thereof? I know there are many different options for construction.

I could ask questions all day about how you plan on doing things, but instead I'll subscribe and let them answer themselves... Looks like it'll be a great build to watch.
 

buildmyown

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Joined
Mar 3, 2010
Messages
783
Location
Franklin Ma
Interesting build this is going to be.

Love that area I stay up at The Forks for snowmobiling and been rafting on that river twice.
 

64dragnwagon

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Sep 3, 2006
Messages
461
Location
Northeastern Tennessee
I love it for several reasons. I love minimilist modern architecture and I love concrete, block and stone construction. I am a huge fan of Frank loyd Wright, he built a Usonion house from traditional 8"x16" blocks. I always thought it was so cool. If I can find a pic I will post it. I am looking forward to your build. How much more difficult does it make the plumbing and electrical on this type of design?
 

64dragnwagon

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Sep 3, 2006
Messages
461
Location
Northeastern Tennessee
I found a poor pic of the FLW designed John L Rayward house in Connecticut. It doesn't do it justice but I couldn't find a better pic. All concrete block and native wood, it is one of the largest FLW designed residential homes.
 

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ConCretin

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Central Maine
Thanks for all the positive comments and Sorry about the photos. I'm still working on it. I'll figure it out and get replace the photos with some you can see.
 
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ConCretin

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Central Maine
Started excavation for the building foundations in the garage/shop area. This is the back right area of the model.

DSCN0045-1.jpg


We've got about a 12' cut into the slope. We're taking out a lot of material but have fills that will consume most of it.

DSCN0053-1.jpg


Here's a view of the site from the access road

DSCN0058-1.jpg


The soils here are incredibly 'boney' with lots of boulders. We've been using this to haul off the tree stumps and the largest of the boulders

DSCN0046-1.jpg


We'll probably have another full day of excavating before we can start footings.

PS; I'm still working out the whole photo posting thing but hopefully these are a little better.
 
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ConCretin

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Messages
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Central Maine
My Dad does concrete, gunite to be specific, he has talked about building a house out of it, but finances haven't cooperated.

Are you pouring/pumping the whole house, or using shotcrete, or a combination thereof? I know there are many different options for construction.

I could ask questions all day about how you plan on doing things, but instead I'll subscribe and let them answer themselves... Looks like it'll be a great build to watch.

Oggy,

No gunite in the plans so far. As I mentioned, the foundations are typical poured footings and walls, the above grade walls are ICF, The floors and roofs are a variation of ICF. There are also a number of architectural concrete walls that will remain exposed on the interior of the house. Even the chimney you see in the picture of the model is cast in place concrete.
 

BevoZ06

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Nov 30, 2011
Messages
165
Location
Austin Texas
What is the nearest town to your building site?

For several years I would vacation in coastal Maine during July or August. I was always in the Brooklin, Blue Hill, Ellsworth area with day trips to Bar Harbor and surrounding areas. I also spent some time in Augusta, Bangor/Brewer and Portland.

It's been quite a few years since I have been there. Living in Texas for the past couple of decades makes for a very long round-trip drive.

This looks like a great project and I'm sure it will turn out to be everything you and your wife have hoped for. I'll be following along.
 
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ConCretin

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Central Maine
How much more difficult does it make the plumbing and electrical on this type of design?

It's definitely a bit more challenging than wood framed construction that tends to be 'hollow' whereas this type of construction doesn't have any voids to run piping or wiring.

Wiring is typically done by cutting slots in the ICF foam with a hot wire tools. Boxes are attached to the concrete core with TapCon screws. Plumbing generally has to come up through sleeves in the floor.

Careful planning is required but it's not insurmountable.
 
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ConCretin

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What is the nearest town to your building site?

For several years I would vacation in coastal Maine during July or August. I was always in the Brooklin, Blue Hill, Ellsworth area with day trips to Bar Harbor and surrounding areas. I also spent some time in Augusta, Bangor/Brewer and Portland.

We are just downriver from Augusta in Pittston.
 

Mmfh

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Oct 8, 2011
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Location
Portland Oregon
That is a Beautiful spot to spend the next 40 years or so! I'm liking what your doing and I subscribed so I wouldn't lose your build thread.

So, when working on something that pisses you off in the garage, can you just say screw it and walk down with the rod and tackle box and spend an hour on the bank catching dinner.

Hows the fishing in your little piece of paradise?

Mm
 

shopnut

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Feb 22, 2006
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Location
Florida
Nice setting there LLWillysfan. Looking forward to seeing this one come to life. It's hard to beat concrete for longevity, that's for sure.

Good luck!
 

Jim Bud

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Joined
Oct 11, 2011
Messages
5
Good Luck.
It is always fun to watch a project from the begining.

This should be inspirational, my wife and I are just beginning the process of planning to build a house. Since I have done this before, I have mixed emotions....it's very exciting...and it can at times be very stressful....

I hope your build goes very well....with few suprises :)
 
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ConCretin

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Central Maine
The next step was to excavate for a pit to accommodate a Rotary in-ground lift. The Rotary lift is contained in a plastic 'cartridge' that is usually buried in the soil under the slab.

I'm constructing a concrete pit that will allow me to install the lift later on. I'm doing it this way because soils and water would make it too difficult to hold the cartridge in position while backfilling. looked easy on paper but turns out it was tough and would get tougher. It started out fine.

DSCN0072-1.jpg

Then we started hitting water. The land behind the building site rises significantly and ledge is 8 to 12 feet below existing grade. The result is a lot of water running on the ledge right into my excavation.

The pit will consist of a 12" base slab with 8" walls placed to 18" below the final slab elevation. The inside pit dimensions will be 3' by 8'.

The deeper we dug the more water we got. The general plan when digging in wet conditions is to over-excavate, dig sumps, dump lots of crushed stone and then pump, pump pump. Speed is the key because the excavation rarely gets better with time.

To speed things up we even pre-built the footing complete with rebar. Once we had the excavation to grade, we swung the whole thing into the hole, staked it on line and placed it. When the concrete truck pulled on site, the form was hanging off the excavator bucket. We were ready to place by the time he had mixed up.

DSCN0083.jpg

It was a tough, muddy day but I'm sure it will be worth it when the lift goes in. My guys are very good at what they do and won't let anything stop them from getting the job done.

We'll place the pit walls tomorrow, backfill and then move on to foundations.
 
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