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ConCretin

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Doug, using child labor? Oh my. I could use a concrete duckblind painted over in camo if you don't mind. I'll supply the decoys since cement decoys don't work very well.

Thanks Dave. Welcome aboard

I think child labor is OK as long as you don't actually pay them.


I'm sure the RV is comfy, especially with that great extended "living space" (the patio). But I bet the crew goes on some extra overtime if you sell the house and move in full time for a while :). I did some time in a 32 footer and it can get old quickly without your "space".

I had a 27footer parked out the front of my place for a year or 2 it was our kitchen and bathroom. But not a patch on your slider.. the kids used to roller blade around in the house before the drywall went up..

It has worked out well but I can see how an extended stay would have its compromises. While we still have the old house, it's more of a camp. If we sell, I'll use it as temporary housing this summer. Won't be here in Janurary though.

In Oklahoma it doesn't get as cold as up north so their procedure may vary.

Thanks for the great checklist - I'm hanging on to that for sure

Have you done any work on the crane in that garage?

No, not yet. Now the damn garage is full of stuff I cleaned out of our current home in advance of listing it.

Crane ! With all the other chatter I missed this one so will be looking to see how and where this goes as well as more information on the Gen set etc. as to how all that works into your plans.

It's a simple bridge crane. There's a little info in post #190. I'll fill in more detail as we get to some of these things

I must admit, I don't remember how I found these forums but just reading through this thread, I registered and now I'm hooked!

Welcome to GJ
 
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NUTTSGT

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So far we've been spending weekends on site but if we sell our current house, we'll be moving in full time.

I did a quick build of a patio so we don't have to deal with all the dirt and mud

DSCN0744.jpg

Nice camper and patio, you don't half *** a thing, you do everything right. :thumbup:


I'd guess you pull that thing with a diesel 3/4 or 1 ton ?
 
Joined
Aug 28, 2009
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Nice RVRS (rear ventilated rain screen). We started using that product on a few schools we're designing. It almost has a velvet-y quality to the touch of it.

In most commercial applications, it is installed onto galvanized z-girts, but your method should hold up for many years to come.

I would suggest, however, you consider installing an insect screen at the top and bottom of the exposed air channel.

Loving this build, great job.
 

mdbeck1

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Mar 7, 2010
Messages
2,297
Location
Norman, OK
In Oklahoma it doesn't get as cold as up north so their procedure may vary.

The procedure I use is:
- Purchase a gallon of RV "antifreeze"
- Dump the tanks.
- Drain the hot water tank and flip the bypass valves. Put the drain plug back in.
- Drain the fresh water reservoir. Put the drain back in.
- Set the pump up to pull from the RV "antifreeze" bottle
- Turn the pump on
- Run each faucet until the RV "antifreeze" (it's red) starts coming out.
- Run the shower until the RV "antifreeze" starts coming out.
- Run the tub until the RV "antifreeze" starts coming out.
- Plug the air vents to the stove, vent hood, and other areas to keep the mud daubers out.

Oh, and you really DON'T want the antifreeze in the hot water tank. It smells terrible and tastes worse.

:wtf: You have to do all that ! WOW here you just park it in the Garage and maybe cover it.

Actually my RV is an 18 foot bumper pull (no pull outs). It takes me about an hour to go through that list.

Which reminds me. Now it's time to de-winterize it. ... So first I need to run a bunch of water through everything (drink beer(s) while waiting) and go dump the tanks. Pull the mud dauber blockers. Then you flip the valves on the hot water tank and basically you're done.
 

Buzz Lightyear

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Wiltshire, UK
Buzz Lightyear, I appreciate the comment - yours too HotFR8 - but let's not make this into a contest. It's not my intent to show off or one up anyone and I hope it isn't coming across that way.

There are many fantastic garages and lots of talent and ingenuity on GJ. I am often humbled by what I see, both the high end stuff and the more modest but no less impressive efforts

This was only meant as a a compliment on the style/location/workmanship that is going into your build and was never meant to demean or belittle anyone else's efforts. I have only got a single integrated garage here in England and I count myself lucky that I can get a car in it at all. Most new houses in the UK don't even have a garage and if they do it's not big enough to get a car in and open the doors wide enough to get out of it!!

I come on here to cheer myself up with the imagination and style that many/all of the garages on here display. Sorry if my comments didn't come across as intended and I will endeavour to re-read things I post in the future. :)
 

HOTFR8

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Doug, using child labor?

Oh Come on......Surely as a Kid you just wanted to jump in and work every machine you could and just loved every minute of it :wtf:. I know I did.

Nice first post.
I like the way you eased into the site gently. :wtf:

Obviously he never had any fun as a kid working or playing with machinery or cars. :lol: :sad:


I think child labor is OK as long as you don't actually pay them.

Good on you for letting the kid get in and have a go. I am sure it will inspire him to do many things and he can go away and say he helped you. :thumbup:

Actually my RV is an 18 foot bumper pull (no pull outs). It takes me about an hour to go through that list.

Which reminds me. Now it's time to de-winterize it. ... So first I need to run a bunch of water through everything (drink beer(s) while waiting) and go dump the tanks. Pull the mud dauber blockers. Then you flip the valves on the hot water tank and basically you're done.

Again glad I just garage mine and that is it.
 
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ConCretin

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90 degrees today! Might not seem too bad to those of you in warmer climes but we haven't been much above 70 in a year. Was a bit of a shock to the system but the crew managed to get a lot done

Finished up the formwork for the foundation walls;

DSCN0763.jpg


DSCN0769.jpg


If your wondering about the strings, they represent grid lines. We have a hard time shedding our commercial construction habits so my field engineer shot points with the total station. We are looking for all anchor bolts to be within an 1/8" relative to grid.

Was a bit nervous when I saw the crew digging a hole in the basement but it turns out they were digging column footings.

DSCN0768.jpg


We got the wall and column footings placed by noon and the concrete crew called it a day.

DSCN0773.jpg


We had quite a scare when a concrete truck backed into a ditch threatening to produce a cold joint right in the middle of the architectural concrete. We somehow managed to free it with a RT forklift and a 4WD F450. Whew!

The site crew continued backfilling and rough grading behind the garage.

DSCN0771.jpg


I've been stockpiling excavated material for months but finally decided I couldn't use it for interior building backfill. We have deep fills and the risk of settlement is just too great. We used it around the perimeter and just spread the rest around. I'm importing from here on out.

DSCN0766.jpg


Meanwhile 200 feet above, the crew plugged away at the rain screen siding on the garage. This photo shows all the components; furring covered by ice and water seal, epdm expansion strips, cement boards and torx screws.

DSCN0776.jpg


Here's the back, which is almost done. We went with 3/8" vertical joints and 5/8" on the horizontal. The boss thought it would be more interesting. The screws are 24" on center in both directions. All but two holes per panel are drilled oversize to facilitate movement.

DSCN0784.jpg


I think the pace will improve now that we've got the system down.
 
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HOTFR8

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:thumbup: I agree 100% every topic here on the GJ has something to offer and to see how others do things from the biggest jobs to the smallest fittings, there is always something new to take in and learn. ;):thumbup:

This was only meant as a a compliment on the style/location/workmanship that is going into your build and was never meant to demean or belittle anyone else's efforts. I have only got a single integrated garage here in England and I count myself lucky that I can get a car in it at all. Most new houses in the UK don't even have a garage and if they do it's not big enough to get a car in and open the doors wide enough to get out of it!!

I come on here to cheer myself up with the imagination and style that many/all of the garages on here display. Sorry if my comments didn't come across as intended and I will endeavour to re-read things I post in the future. :)

I had to search for my post above as I am sure no one meant to belittle or demean any one after all we all live in different parts of the world and have different governing bodies that control many things we can and :)() can not do so to see what others can do and share is something I think we all enjoy here on the GJ and as part of a global community with a common interest. :thumbup:

Buzz. I did not see anything demeaning in your comments.
 
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ConCretin

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This was only meant as a a compliment on the style/location/workmanship that is going into your build and was never meant to demean or belittle anyone else's efforts.

I come on here to cheer myself up with the imagination and style that many/all of the garages on here display. Sorry if my comments didn't come across as intended and I will endeavour to re-read things I post in the future. :)

IBuzz. I did not see anything demeaning in your comments.

Neither did I Buzz. All is good. :thumbup:
 

Mr onetwo

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Apr 6, 2011
Messages
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Location
Coastal Maine
Nice RVRS (rear ventilated rain screen). We started using that product on a few schools we're designing. It almost has a velvet-y quality to the touch of it.

In most commercial applications, it is installed onto galvanized z-girts, but your method should hold up for many years to come.

I would suggest, however, you consider installing an insect screen at the top and bottom of the exposed air channel.

Loving this build, great job.

I have seen Cobra ridge vent sliced up and used at the top and bottom of the rain screen...cheap and EZ:thumbup: http://www.gaf.com/Roofing/Resident...s/Cobra-Exhaust-Vent/Cobra-Exhaust-Vent.aspx#
 

red

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Hudson Valley, NY
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ConCretin

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I would suggest, however, you consider installing an insect screen at the top and bottom of the exposed air channel.

I have seen Cobra ridge vent sliced up and used at the top and bottom of the rain screen...cheap and EZ:thumbup:

I can see how it would be relatively easy to install an insect screen or the Cobra product at the top and bottom but what about the horizontal joints?

Can you stretch insect screen across the furring before putting up the panels? Seems like it would pull fairly tight when you screw on the panels.
 
Joined
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I can see how it would be relatively easy to install an insect screen or the Cobra product at the top and bottom but what about the horizontal joints?

Can you stretch insect screen across the furring before putting up the panels? Seems like it would pull fairly tight when you screw on the panels.

At this point, you would have a difficult time retrofitting using an insect screen on horizontal joints. I would find some backer-rod and colour matched caulking and fill them with a nice radius bevel (think brick veneer joint). It keeps the system tight, enhances the pressure equalization chamber abilities and keeps the wasps out! Most dry-systems I have seen have a horizontal strap (or girt) at every joint (horz. and vert.). A colour matched 1" wide plastic spline is installed on strapping first, then the panels installed in place to avoid the open gap into the cavity behind.

If you would like, send me PM with your email address and I will forward you some photos of a current install to better understand the system.

For the top and bottom insect screens, you almost need a perforated J channel or perforated metal flashing that is bent into a L, with the short leg screwed into the sheathing before the panels are installed. Caulk the other edge once your panel is installed... OR, contact the panel supplier and ask if they have perforated closure channels for the top and bottom of the wall cavity. But at this stage, you're likely enclosed as you work at the speed of lightning! Another option would be to use screen door material. Staple the one edge to the sheathing and return the other edge into the cavity behind the installed panel and use caulking to hold it in place... Just some ideas.

Let me know if you have further questions. :beer:
 
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ConCretin

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Started the day by stripping the wall we placed yesterday.

DSCN1388.jpg


We also started backfilling the area between the house and the site retaining walls. As I mentioned yesterday, I decided I couldn't use my stockpiled material to backfill for a couple reasons so from now on we're backfilling with imported sand.

DSCN1365.jpg


The wall of oncoming sand also served to encourage the form crew to strip faster. :lol: We didn't bother to compact this area and just left it high. It will be a while before anything happens out here so we'l just let it settle by itself.

While the materials are obviously an extra cost, we'll make some of it up with speed and ease of installation. The sand goes through the conveyor very quickly and it levels out and compacts easily

DSCN1364.jpg


Later in the day we moved over and started excavation for the back wall of the house and the connector to the garage. The site is getting smaller but that's good news - we're almost done foundations.

DSCN1375.jpg


Should be less then two weeks before we can move on to slabs on grade and the suspended slab over the basement

DSCN1374.jpg


At the upper garage, the carpenters moved on to the second side.

DSCN1379.jpg


We have switched from cutting strips of ice and water shield to cover the furring to Vycor flashing. We're using 6" and 9" rolls. The furring strips are wider where two panels meet and narrower in between.

Following The Art of Design's suggestion and MrOneTwo's comment, I did some quick research and found a product I could get quickly to insect proof the top and bottom of the vertical 'shafts' between the furring. It's called Cor-a-vent. It's a corrugated plastic product similar to ridge vent.

DSCN1383.jpg


It's kind of hard to make out what I'm photographing but I'm attempting to show the insect screen that they apply to the bottom of the Cor-a-vent.

DSCN1371.jpg


We'll also be stretching strips of black fiberglass insect screen across the horizontal joints to keep the critters from coming in that way. I'll let you know how that works out.

I think we can retrofit both products to the side we've already done as well.

Thanks for the help guys.
 
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MajorLeeGassole

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Apr 13, 2010
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392
Location
Fairmont, WV
I know you're well into this build, but did you ever think about mounting one or more cameras that would create a time lapse film to view during and at the end of this amazing build? They have one on the compound here at [censored]. ;) It makes for a pretty wild film to view the progress.
 
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Mr onetwo

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Coastal Maine
Here is a product page for every ones reference...works great in "rainscreen" applications.Better than the stuff I suggested.Keep up the great work!!!:D
 

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Stuart in MN

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Minneapolis
The insect screen. . . mainly for ants termites ? Or is there something else that is your main deterent is aimed at ?

I would imagine he just wants to keep all bugs and critters out of there. It would be a good place for wasps or bees to make nests, for instance.
 
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ConCretin

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Central Maine
Friday we formed up and placed the footing that connects the back wall of the house to the garage connector. The steps bring the footing elevation up from the basement to frost wall height. We always lay out steps to align with wall form joints so we can just lift a panel when we come to a step. A little planning saves a lot of time.

DSCN0794.jpg


DSCN0795.jpg


This morning we started on the wall forms and rebar

DSCN0810.jpg


DSCN0815.jpg


By the end of the day we had the forms buttoned up and ready to place in the morning. Also started backfilling the interior. The isolated section of wall form in the middle is to let the duct work crawl space to pass through. There is an architectural wall above that will have additional rebar to allow it to span the gap.

This is the space between the front of the house and the terrace wall. The horizontal pipes are the sleeves that allow the geothermal lines to pass through. You can see the water-proofing & drainage board on the wall that forms the basement to the right. The vertical pipe is to tie in the future terrace drains.

DSCN0806.jpg


We got a pretty good start on backfilling this space with stone and sand. Once again the conveyor truck proved its worth. The guy on the left is the operator - the radio remote control is attached to a belt around his waist. He'll go back to using it as soon as he finishes his cell phone call.

DSCN0808.jpg


By noon we were most of the way there. For those who don't have to deal with frost, the pink insulation keeps the material inside the walls from freezing - we'll place another layer horizontally under the slab.

DSCN0817.jpg


We also finished backfilling the front of the terrace wall. This is the front of the house. You can see most of the boxes for future lights - some are still obscured by a little cement paste. The lights will be low watt LEDs. We placed them 6' on center and aligned them with the tie holes, which will remain visible.

DSCN0820.jpg


The little sloped wall in the middle of the picture above is for a set of concrete stairs up to the terrace level. The sloped fill to the left of the photo below is for the stairs up from the dock path. Hope to get them in this week to facilitate access.

DSCN0822.jpg


A couple more details from the ongoing rain-screen installation at the upper garage. Here is the insect screen we're using at the horizontal joints.

DSCN0787.jpg


Here is how we're flashing over the passage door;

DSCN0786.jpg


Lost my carpenters to another job for a day or two but hopefully we'll get back to it by the end of the week.
 
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ConCretin

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I know you're well into this build, but did you ever think about mounting one or more cameras that would create a time lapse film to view during and at the end of this amazing build?

We have plans to install security cameras once we have a little more infrastructure in place. I hadn't thought of time lapse. Will have to look into that. Would have been cool to see it all but there is still a long way to go.

It looks like the weathers cheered up a bit for you. Coming along nicely too.

Thanks Buzz. Weather has "cheered up", which has had the same effect on all of us.

The insect screen. . . mainly for ants termites ? Or is there something else that is your main deterent is aimed at ?

I would imagine he just wants to keep all bugs and critters out of there. It would be a good place for wasps or bees to make nests, for instance.

It's mostly wasps but hopefully it will help with all type of pests

Everytime I see it have a new post by LLWillys I get a chubby... :wtf:

We definitely need to get a sarcasm smiley.
 

NUTTSGT

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Northern Central Ohio
It's starting to come together and looking great.


What's the reach on the conveyor ? I can see the out rigger of that valuable piece of equipment.
 

-Brent-

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Dec 23, 2009
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Utah
LL, is the footprint of the building nearly there? It's hard to tell from the recent photos.
 
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ConCretin

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yeah...i havent been on here for a bit....this thing is the shizzle....

Hopefully 'shizzle' is good.

Its my daily newspaper, I check in for a laugh and jaw drop almost every day. Especially Mondays..and Friday :D

I wasn't aware that Mondays and Fridays had a higher entertainment value. Must be the pre and post effects of cold beverages

What's the reach on the conveyor?

The boom extends to 110' and you can hurl materials a fair bit further - big fun by the way. It can theoretically move over 300 cy per hour though we've never been able to feed it with anything that fast.

LL, is the footprint of the building nearly there? It's hard to tell from the recent photos.

Thankfully, yes. We excavated the last of the footings this morning (I'll have pics and an update later today). Foundations should be done by the middle of next week. Then its on to slabs on grade as well as the structural steel and concrete deck over the basement and cantilever.
 
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NUTTSGT

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The boom extends to 110' and you can hurl materials a fair bit further - big fun by the way. It can theoretically move over 300 cy per hour though we've never been able to feed it with anything that fast.

That boom is longer than our ladder tower (100'). I know it sounds long but when you start reaching out from as close as you can get to something, that boom length probably gets ate up fast.
 
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