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The Concrete Underground

signcrafter

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May 9, 2012
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12,318
Once again, sorry for the lack of updates and thanks for your continuing interest and positive comments. We hit a bit of a lull while we waited for windows but hopefully things will start picking up steam again. I'll get you up to speed tonight or tomorrow at the latest

Can't wait! Love the updates. Are you planning on moving in this winter or staying in trailer or somewhere else?
 
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vette66bob

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Jun 3, 2009
Messages
168
Location
North Jersey
I have been following your progress from the beginning, enjoying and being educated at the same time. I do know the finishing work up be the most difficult and time consuming part of the job. Keep up the spectacular work and I am sure the results will be rewarding
 

NUTTSGT

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Northern Central Ohio
What happens to the gray beams behind the window frames? paint? trim?

Short term we'll just paint them but we'd like to wrap them in wood to match the kitchen pods (more on that later)

I'm not sure how tall the posts are but if they are less than 8' tall and it would match the trim inside, I'd suggest maybe using plywood. Not some CDX but some nice cabinet grade oak, maple or birch plywood. A sheet might be some big money upfront but it should be more stable (to the humidity) and you'll get plenty of pieces out of a sheet. If you 45° cut all corners before assembling it, nobody will ever know it's plywood. It'll also take stain and a finish nice too.
 

granada don

Active member
Joined
May 20, 2013
Messages
34
Hi Doug

I know a Veneer shop in ID that can make up custom plywood with any look 0r size you want to have

He has a ton of veneers to pick from and there is another veneer shop in up state NY that has more to pick from, then send them to the guy in ID to bond together

G Don
 

cdd1

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Joined
May 25, 2012
Messages
931
Location
Philly
I errr, umm .......... well, I didn't actually think of that either. Duhhh. Guess I'll have to figure something out. I'm thinking big *** shop vac and/or leaf blower. Luckilly we installed little ss screens around the edge so I hopefully won't blow all the rocks off too.

This is my first post in the thread, so let me add to what everyone else has already stated. This entire build thread is amazing.

I think a leaf blower will be fine. You'll find a throttle position that will pick up the leaves, but leave the stones behind.
 

J-man67

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Joined
Aug 10, 2012
Messages
218
Location
Delaware
Hopefully the window install will coincide with the leaves turning, so you can get some beauty shots before winter. :)

I can see them just fine as well. Are you at work or on a public network?


Is it just me? Take post #1786 for example. I see all the text, but the photos aren't there. Not even placeholders if there were bad links.



Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk
 

vonhef

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Joined
Apr 4, 2011
Messages
454
Location
Southern, Ok
Subscribed also. All I can say is that you are a very patient man.... a build like this would test me, but the end product is simply amazing!
 
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ConCretin

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Joined
Jan 20, 2011
Messages
3,378
Location
Central Maine
My only excuse for the lack of updates is the painfully short days. Seems I go to work in the dark and come home in the dark. It's hard to find the time to take photos. Oh well, better late than never, right? We started installing window a couple weeks ago. Here's the first one;



As I've mentioned, the windows aren't your typical Andersens. They fit within the rough opening and are sealed with a perimeter caulk joint.

It wasn't long before the first level front of the main floor was complete. The frames are in for the second floor but the crew hung a poly wind break to make their life a little easier. It's getting a bit chilly up here.



The view from the inside is even better. We are using a low e glass with a gray tint.



They've got the frames in for the Guest bedroom



And have finished the opening below;



Meanwhile, we finished insulation and plywood on the basement walls;



We've also started the last bits of concrete. This is a stoop in front of the basement door. Part of our plan to thermally isolate the radiant slabs is to build stoops that extend in under the doors.



We will add a few more bars and extend the rigid insulation out about 48" to keep the frost from getting under the stoops and lifting them.

We're using the same detail for the garage door aprons. This detail completely isolates the heated garage slab from the cold.



Here's prep work for the front entry stoop. It is supported by foundation walls but we still want to keep the frost from heaving the slab.



This is the stairs leading down to the dock;



Speaking of the dock - it's gone. Always sad to see it go but we've got to pull it out before the ice sets in. I run a clothesline type rope from the stairs to the mooring to keep the dinghy in as long as possible. Ya never know when a nice day might require a little river cruise.



We've got a couple weeks of window and flashing ahead. The heating contractor is coming a week from Monday so we should have heat shortly thereafter. Now if I could only get tha damn camper sorted out. This might not have been my best idea.
 
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ConCretin

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Jan 20, 2011
Messages
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Location
Central Maine
Can't wait! Love the updates. Are you planning on moving in this winter or staying in trailer or somewhere else?

We are going to try and gut it out in the camper. I've used concrete blankets (go figure, right?) to skirt the camper and installed an electric heater underneath. I used heat tape and pipe insulation to protect the garden hose that supplies us with well water from freezing. Might be one of my less successful ideas but we'll see.

I know a Veneer shop in ID that can make up custom plywood with any look 0r size you want to have

Hey Don. We're planning on buying our veneer plywood from the cabinet company so it matches but I'm sure it is going to add a premium. If it gets too crazy, I'll give you a call.


Thanks to all for the nice comments!! This would be a lot more difficult without the encouragement.
 

granada don

Active member
Joined
May 20, 2013
Messages
34
Hi Doug

Sure looking good with the glass in place, just wondering how thick the glass is on that large of a piece to keep them from breaking in a strong wind?

G Don
 
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J-man67

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Joined
Aug 10, 2012
Messages
218
Location
Delaware
The view is worth the journey! Great progress! No need for apologies or excuses. We should be paying a premium for this content! Great work!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk
 

Thedoc14

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 4, 2012
Messages
259
Location
Melb, Australia
You must be getting excited by now, All locked up and heated just before the white stuff drops.
As above no need to apologise for busting your hump at work and then on your house all weekends. Been there and still am 6 years later..But I have been OS for 4yrs..

Keep us posted as you go along, the longer the wait the better the surprise..
 
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BeachBoy

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Dec 28, 2010
Messages
540
it's windy and really cold right now in VT, glad your windows are in!!!

The house is gorgeous, and I'm booking a visit next summer, I really want to see this in person!
 

wssix99

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Joined
Mar 2, 2011
Messages
5,156
Location
Chicago, IL
Thanks for all the work you've put in to this great thread!

As I've mentioned, the windows aren't your typical Andersens. They fit within the rough opening and are sealed with a perimeter caulk joint.

We're starting a similar installation on our ICF house this week and this will be my first time installing windows like this - so your go at them is making me feel better about what is to come for us. (I guess I'm not used to modern quality caulking or windows built to modern tolerances.) This requires a lot of attention to details and making sure all the measurements tie before the windows are ordered!

How do you feel about the install? Do the caulk joints look good close up? Did you have to use backer rod for the joints?


We've also started the last bits of concrete. This is a stoop in front of the basement door. Part of our plan to thermally isolate the radiant slabs is to build stoops that extend in under the doors.

Again, this is wonderful and putting me at ease. We are doing a similar detail on our sills, which **** up against the radiant floor. All of my subs and masons have never run in to this before, (even the ones who install radiant floors) which had me nervous. (They just ran the radiant slabs out in to unconditioned outdoor space.) It seems like a no-brainer to me, but I also had a post on this site and folks didn't seem to have much experience with pouring isolated sills.

What is your plan for the foam across the garage doors? Are you going to use a metal plate or rubber seal across the insulated part of the sill? Did you use a high compression (60psi, etc.) foam for that area?
 

OHSCrifle

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Joined
Mar 11, 2013
Messages
178
Location
Atlanta
Thanks for all the work you've put in to this great thread!

Again, this is wonderful and putting me at ease. We are doing a similar detail on our sills, which **** up against the radiant floor. All of my subs and masons have never run in to this before, (even the ones who install radiant floors) which had me nervous. (They just ran the radiant slabs out in to unconditioned outdoor space.) It seems like a no-brainer to me, but I also had a post on this site and folks didn't seem to have much experience with pouring isolated sills.

WSSIX: Where is the post you are referencing? I'd like to see what you illustrated...
 

wssix99

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Mar 2, 2011
Messages
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Location
Chicago, IL

Alexbn921

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Joined
Aug 22, 2013
Messages
579
Location
East Bay Nor Cal
Thanks for the update. Keep the great pictures coming. Looking out through the windows at the river is going to make all your hard work worth it.:bounce:
 

cderalow

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Joined
Nov 13, 2011
Messages
1,326
Location
Potomac, MD
Thanks for all the work you've put in to this great thread!



We're starting a similar installation on our ICF house this week and this will be my first time installing windows like this - so your go at them is making me feel better about what is to come for us. (I guess I'm not used to modern quality caulking or windows built to modern tolerances.) This requires a lot of attention to details and making sure all the measurements tie before the windows are ordered!

How do you feel about the install? Do the caulk joints look good close up? Did you have to use backer rod for the joints?




Again, this is wonderful and putting me at ease. We are doing a similar detail on our sills, which **** up against the radiant floor. All of my subs and masons have never run in to this before, (even the ones who install radiant floors) which had me nervous. (They just ran the radiant slabs out in to unconditioned outdoor space.) It seems like a no-brainer to me, but I also had a post on this site and folks didn't seem to have much experience with pouring isolated sills.

What is your plan for the foam across the garage doors? Are you going to use a metal plate or rubber seal across the insulated part of the sill? Did you use a high compression (60psi, etc.) foam for that area?


find local large office building and take a look at the windows on it.

odds are, the product he's installing is very similar (looks to almost be a commercial grade storefront system).
 

wssix99

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Joined
Mar 2, 2011
Messages
5,156
Location
Chicago, IL
find local large office building and take a look at the windows on it.

odds are, the product he's installing is very similar (looks to almost be a commercial grade storefront system).

I've seen the treatment in many commercial and steel windows but I have never seen a commercial installation with wood window bucks and wooden structural mulls. Getting the tolerances on a poured opening can also more challenging vs. framing a light commercial facade in metal or traditional masonry.

I'd also be interested to know if the wood openings needed any adjustment or planing here before the window was installed. They look perfect.
 

NUTTSGT

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Sep 14, 2009
Messages
50,864
Location
Northern Central Ohio
We are going to try and gut it out in the camper. I've used concrete blankets (go figure, right?) to skirt the camper and installed an electric heater underneath. I used heat tape and pipe insulation to protect the garden hose that supplies us with well water from freezing. Might be one of my less successful ideas but we'll see.

I'm not sure if they do it up you way Doug but when winter comes, alot of the mobile homeowners (rural area) will stack bales of straw around the perimeter of their home.


The windows look great and they are going to let in so much light all year.
 
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ConCretin

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Jan 20, 2011
Messages
3,378
Location
Central Maine
Just a brief update with some recent progress on the windows. But first, a weather update. Had our first snowfall. My hopes for a final river cruise may be dwindling.



The front windows in the master bedroom are in. I love the contrast between the bronze and the white clap boards.



The view from the inside will be nice to wake up to;



They also got one of the smaller side window frames in. These have an operable awning window on the bottom The glazing is installed after the frames are in place



A couple of the kitchen window frames are in as well. These have an awning window at the top.



Here's the formwork and reinforcing for the main entry pad. I've still got to install some light buckets similar to those we put in last year for future up lights.



One more set of stairs to form up and then I just need a break in the weather to place all my misc concrete.

Finally I'd like to wish you all a Happy Thanksgiving including my friends around the world who may not celebrate the holiday. No matter the challenges, we all have a lot to be thankful for and we don't need a day off and a big meal to remember that. I'm especially thankful for the brave men and women around the world protecting our freedom.
 
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