This guy has made a ton of tool mfg logos to print out or add to other projects, has some really cool vintage ones. https://www.printables.com/@YumanBeing/models
The Everything 3D Printer Thread
- Thread starter BoilermakerFan
- Start date
Black300zx
Well-known member
Once I get the TT swap on my Z done, I need to go on a gridfinity kick for my plier drawing and hex bits. That's a nice looking, functional drawer.The first big project was a full size BB-8.
Decided to tackle R2-D2 next.
Mythosaur skull is about 2 ft.
Took a break from the R2 project to print some practical things. I started doing Gridfinity for the toolbox drawers that hold smaller things.
Been a while since I posted in here. Decided to pull the valves out of my heads while they're off and give them a quick lap to make sure the seats are still in good shape (should be....). My dad didn't have his OHC-style compressor anymore, so I printed out an insert to make this one work for me:
Jehannum
Well-known member
Ready for gridfiniting
Nice and tight, < 1mm of wiggle side to side. Used the OpenSCAD library to generate it from parameters.
Nice and tight, < 1mm of wiggle side to side. Used the OpenSCAD library to generate it from parameters.
moab11
Well-known member
Looks like the new Bambu Lab printer is the H2D, details are slowly coming out:
Also have this interesting leaked photo
Also have this interesting leaked photo
XJSuperman
Well-known member
Filament finally came in. I made the rookie mistake of running out mid-print of the color I was using. Back in business now, only to discover that V1.0 of my piece needs adjusted for V2.0 anyways. Fun times.
My ole reliable mk3s+ has been doing great and I've gotten it pretty dialed in at this point. I added a raspberry pi for Prusa link and have kept it mostly stock other than the silicon bed mod because the bed had about .6mm of variance and was causing me issues.
The only thing I want to change now is to make it faster and I was eyeballing the 3.5s upgrade kit but then I accidentally stumbled across a used mk3.5s with some issues for not much more and I couldn't say no because two printers is always better than one lol.
It had some silly issues like an incorrectly routed fan wire causing the x-axis calibration to fail since it was hitting the gantry.
And a broken y axis motor mount
But after printing out a new bracket on my mk3s and doing some tune ups (tightening the belts, cleaning off excessive grease on the rails, adjusting the PINDA, cleaning the bed since it was covered in buildup, and rerouting some of the wires I've got it printing good.
My only dilemma now is where to put the second printer
The only thing I want to change now is to make it faster and I was eyeballing the 3.5s upgrade kit but then I accidentally stumbled across a used mk3.5s with some issues for not much more and I couldn't say no because two printers is always better than one lol.
It had some silly issues like an incorrectly routed fan wire causing the x-axis calibration to fail since it was hitting the gantry.
And a broken y axis motor mount
But after printing out a new bracket on my mk3s and doing some tune ups (tightening the belts, cleaning off excessive grease on the rails, adjusting the PINDA, cleaning the bed since it was covered in buildup, and rerouting some of the wires I've got it printing good.
My only dilemma now is where to put the second printer
Jehannum
Well-known member
First bit of gridfiniting done. The missing 3/8" ratchet is somewhere in the garage still.
Cruzan80
Well-known member
I got a broken craftsman MSA from another forum member (on a related forum), and re-modeled it...
Going to eventually print it in some Hi-temp CF Nylon (with supports in PA release filament). With the swapping needed for Bambu, it says it will take 22hrs (400+ filament swaps).
Going to eventually print it in some Hi-temp CF Nylon (with supports in PA release filament). With the swapping needed for Bambu, it says it will take 22hrs (400+ filament swaps).
Attachments
Jehannum
Well-known member
next bit of gridfiniting, a holder for my 11-bit torx set. First go-round with multi-color printing, and I think I like it, but next time I'll do the whole thing in PETG instead of ABS.
Jehannum
Well-known member
Took a breather on gridfinity to knock out a replacement head tilt worm gear for my new-to-me 1960s-era Rockwell 21-100 mill. My theory on why it ended up at auction with a perfectly serviceable table and tight ways is that someone tried to use the tilt head without slacking the lock bolts, and broke the gear, then they couldn't (easily) find a replacement, so they wheeled it outside, and left it.
I have a couple options to fix it, not the least of which is to just rebroach the original gear in a different spot, and then just not be able to rotate the head all 360 degrees (how that's useful, I'm not sure). The other option is a new part from Delta, which is $325. Not terrible.
Since I've made replacement parts for the zamak castings on my Atlas lathe out of Taulman Alloy 910 though, I haven't had any issues with durability, so I figured I'd give this cast aluminum part a go.
Going to put it in the tilt mechanism later and see if I need to adjust before making a final out of the good stuff (this one's PLA).
I have a couple options to fix it, not the least of which is to just rebroach the original gear in a different spot, and then just not be able to rotate the head all 360 degrees (how that's useful, I'm not sure). The other option is a new part from Delta, which is $325. Not terrible.
Since I've made replacement parts for the zamak castings on my Atlas lathe out of Taulman Alloy 910 though, I haven't had any issues with durability, so I figured I'd give this cast aluminum part a go.
Going to put it in the tilt mechanism later and see if I need to adjust before making a final out of the good stuff (this one's PLA).
Cruzan80
Well-known member
Are you hoping the PLA wears into the ) shape that the original teeth look to have? Or does it not matter? Or did you not want to mess with modeling it?
Sorry, early and no coffee leads to strange sentences...
Sorry, early and no coffee leads to strange sentences...
Jehannum
Well-known member
The tooth profile is a little awkward, as the tilting mechanism uses an ACME thread (found that out before I left for work this morning), and I'm using an involute gear library to generate the teeth. I can get the pitch and pressure angle correct with that library, but the profile isn't exactly right. I'm not sure whether it matters, in the overall scheme of things.
There's an ACME thread library, but it doesn't do worm and gear profiles, just worm and nut.
The standard is open, but the real question is whether, if I subtract a torus around the involute tooth profiles (to lop off the middle and get a closer top profile), I'm time ahead by just writing the correct library to the open ACME standard.
In the end, the worm is metal, the gear is plastic, and the plastic will wear to shape way easier than chasing a rabbit hole after the perfect fit for something that isn't under any tension in use, and is only as accurate as my eyeballs can read on the horizontal column's dial.
Cruzan80
Well-known member
Thanks for putting actual words to my ramblings. I agree with the wearing away, would just want to make sure wall thicknesses are deep enough it does end up breaking into infill.
Wasn't sure if a revolved cut shape (circle and then fillet/smooth edges) would get close enough.
Wasn't sure if a revolved cut shape (circle and then fillet/smooth edges) would get close enough.
Verify your purge volumes are high enough before you commit to a full ($$) print. I have had failed prints due to support filament contamination!
Cruzan80
Well-known member
Will do, but running Bambu filaments for both, so I think I will be ok. May run a few layers high and check. Probably won't be able to print for a week or so.
Jehannum
Well-known member
The teeth are all more than the number of walls thick, so they're solid. My settings for printing something like that would be 8 walls, 6 top and bottom walls, and then 40-60% infill, depending on the filament. That would render most of the important detail pieces pretty much solid plastic.
Jeff
Well-known member
Found this tool organizer. Could be useful.
https://makerworld.com/en/models/1218327-hand-tool-organizer#profileId-1234650
https://makerworld.com/en/models/1218327-hand-tool-organizer#profileId-1234650
Jehannum
Well-known member
My son was using the CR10 that I gave to him, making dust caps for the eyepieces of his telescopes out of glow-in-the-dark PLA, and I have to say that's one of the best uses I've seen of that particular filament.
Worked out well, as we went down to Datil NM last weekend after visiting the VLA and he set up all his stuff so he could see the sky with no light pollution, and he didn't lose any of the caps (the originals were all long-gone, and they were, for some reason, black).
Worked out well, as we went down to Datil NM last weekend after visiting the VLA and he set up all his stuff so he could see the sky with no light pollution, and he didn't lose any of the caps (the originals were all long-gone, and they were, for some reason, black).
That's brilliant!
Jehannum
Well-known member
Got to a good place for my mill tilt mechanism:
Added a 1/4" (minus 0.2mm since it's a little tight right at size) woodruff key to the print, since the mill's key was missing.
In action:
I measured less than a degree of slop with my digital camber gauge, so I'm happy. There's more slop in the way the worm is mounted in the arbor than there is in the tooth engagement.
Added a 1/4" (minus 0.2mm since it's a little tight right at size) woodruff key to the print, since the mill's key was missing.
In action:
I measured less than a degree of slop with my digital camber gauge, so I'm happy. There's more slop in the way the worm is mounted in the arbor than there is in the tooth engagement.
Jeff
Well-known member
Here's one of these, print 10 now! Replacement caps for spray cans.
My wife was re-organizing the kitchen and found these caps to decrease the overall height of the cans.
My wife was re-organizing the kitchen and found these caps to decrease the overall height of the cans.
Jehannum
Well-known member
Upgraded to 8 spool CFS for ULTIMATE POWAH.
The rear one has PETG, the front PLA.
The rear one has PETG, the front PLA.
lilscorpion
Well-known member
Tubing caps/plugs for a metal cart I’m making in the shop. Simple little model in Fusion
Installed in the tube
In black
Installed in the tube
In black
XJSuperman
Well-known member
I almost said something about printing caps in your thread! But I didn't want to nit-pickTubing caps/plugs for a metal cart I’m making in the shop. Simple little model in Fusion
lilscorpion
Well-known member
Ha! I also need to make some that are angle cut - same tune but a 15* angle. Haven’t figured out how to do them in fusion yet. “Taper” in extrude tapers both sides. I need more of a parallelogram.
Here’s what inevitably use in the steel cart to make the material easier to find. They just finished printing about 10 minutes ago. Think they’re kinda cool.
86turbodsl
Well-known member
What's with the foot in every shot??Upgraded to 8 spool CFS for ULTIMATE POWAH.
The rear one has PETG, the front PLA.
Jehannum
Well-known member
It's for my OnlyFans page
XJSuperman
Well-known member
Cruzan80
Well-known member
While I am not sure about the modular part, the size increase, the updated AMS and dual nozzles are very intriguing. And for a not extreme price point, at that! I do think they will cannibalize the X1E sales with this.
Overall, the dual nozzles (while teased earlier), will be a huge leap forward if they can get the rest to say at the levels Bambu has offered before. The amount of waste when printing with support filament was insane, so this will definitely fill a need.
I am less convinced on the laser, espevially the 40W version. Usually those need a pretty good ventilation system, ideally to the outside.
Thinking I may need to order one for the school, to make sure we have the latest and greatest...
Overall, the dual nozzles (while teased earlier), will be a huge leap forward if they can get the rest to say at the levels Bambu has offered before. The amount of waste when printing with support filament was insane, so this will definitely fill a need.
I am less convinced on the laser, espevially the 40W version. Usually those need a pretty good ventilation system, ideally to the outside.
Thinking I may need to order one for the school, to make sure we have the latest and greatest...
purplezr2
Well-known member
Pricing cheaper then I expected. Likely get one in the fall if they BF sale it at all. Let them work out the bugs/fill the supply chain.
slodat
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Who else ordered the H2D?!
naw. building a print facility. then need bigger volume. prolly going a few prusa XLs.
in other news:
Cruzan80
Well-known member
Bambu h2d is 325mm, vs Prusa XL 360mm. Are you going to use the little bit extra?
Comparing apples-apples (XL w/ two toolheads, assembled and enclosed) is 1900<->3500. So almost 185% of the price from the H2D to the Prusa XL.
Comparing apples-apples (XL w/ two toolheads, assembled and enclosed) is 1900<->3500. So almost 185% of the price from the H2D to the Prusa XL.
rslaback
Well-known member
3 Days after hitting print, I assembled and installed my shelf today. I really dig the matte plastics. They make the layer lines less noticeable.
oh my god yes. the wife is not gona be happy.3 Days after hitting print, I assembled and installed my shelf today. I really dig the matte plastics. They make the layer lines less noticeable.
slodat
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I have a two toolhead XL. I bought it factory assembled. I can not recommend it in good faith. The print quality is great. The reliability is just not there. And it hasn't been since I bought it. Prusa's support is awful at best. Their fanboi community doesn't make it any better. Mine mostly sits because the extruders need something changed since adding an enclosure. Extrusion randomly stops and the printer doesn't detect it.
If I understand the H2D correctly, a person could have the same filament in both nozzles and the long side is extended to 350mm.
Hummm now you got me thinking on the base model h2d. i gotta do some measuring.
making me reconsider now for sure.
Cruzan80
Well-known member
Clough42 seems to compare it directly to his Prusa XL. Cross-posted.
TLDR, It (H2D) just works, like he has come to expect from Bambu. (Much better than his Prusa XL). Jump to min 25:00 to hear the "Yes, but" comments.
TLDR, It (H2D) just works, like he has come to expect from Bambu. (Much better than his Prusa XL). Jump to min 25:00 to hear the "Yes, but" comments.
Jehannum
Well-known member
I've had dual nozzles before, and the only "killer app" for them was doing supports and main body out of different materials.
It may be an artifact of not having all the fancy shmancy AI stuff and running just straight up old Marlin (on a bed-slinger with the hot ends, axes, and bed on v-wheels and not linear rails), but it wasn't ever good enough to get me acceptable quality in same-layer extrusion in the part on the bed. The second nozzle was always just a little bit off.
It may be an artifact of not having all the fancy shmancy AI stuff and running just straight up old Marlin (on a bed-slinger with the hot ends, axes, and bed on v-wheels and not linear rails), but it wasn't ever good enough to get me acceptable quality in same-layer extrusion in the part on the bed. The second nozzle was always just a little bit off.