Cruzan80
Well-known member
Doesn't seem too hard. A few cylinders with holes, a ring, and a large flat piece on the bed ...
Oh wait, you didn't mean the white part!
Oh wait, you didn't mean the white part!
The Everything 3D Printer Thread
- Thread starter BoilermakerFan
- Start date
slodat
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I've been really happy with the H2D. I only print ABS in it. It just churns out my production parts.Fedex surprised me and delivered this today, a day ahead of tracking
Now to find some time to unbox it as the day was already planned for me....
kaymccampbell
Well-known member
What material are you printing?
kaymccampbell
Well-known member
Then I gotta ask. What is it? And is it supposed to look rough, wet, blurpy, and warped, or is that the camera and lighting?
combining materials is super interesting.
zip tie holders: get kinda annoying to make really tall.
printed caps to hold magnets/screws/be the bottom.
but the red extrusion can be as long as I want. 36" zip ties no problem. for pretty cheap.
zip tie holders: get kinda annoying to make really tall.
printed caps to hold magnets/screws/be the bottom.
but the red extrusion can be as long as I want. 36" zip ties no problem. for pretty cheap.
ArcReactorKC
Well-known member
I'm an investor at 60k...In case anyone is curious. 3 filament lines and hoppers runs about 84k
as in i get my line cost down to 60k?
ArcReactorKC
Well-known member
As in give you $60k for a stake in the business
Ahh investor. Lets chat when the time comes. the building costs are gona be sizeable along with electrical.
ArcReactorKC
Well-known member
Bambu themselves said it would be fiscally better to wait for the H2C than to get the upgrade, historically this has been the case with most printers.
Unless you are dying for a new printer today I would wait for the H2C to drop. It's actually got me looking at bambu options again as we continue to expand.
niget2002
Well-known member
I was really hoping for better reviews on the Qidi Box. But, alas, I may end up down the Bambu route. I need to work on my current big 3d printer this weekend and see if longer belts fixes my issue. Then I'll decide where to go from there. I also still have all the hardware I need to convert it over to Klipper, which I know is better than the current config. But even then, the AMS is what I really want, but I don't like any of the DIY options out there.
moab11
Well-known member
Your next purchase?
if they want me to print tractor hoods I'd need to.
jayz66ragtop
Well-known member
I would agree, spousal unit even was ok with me getting a H2D and sell my X1C to a co-worker but glad I procrastinated and will wait for the H2C then decided depending on price difference.
Beelzeboss
Well-known member
I've only had my 3D printer for a couple of months (Bambu P1S) but this thing is ridiculously useful.
I can see me 3D printing every part that I possibly can to speed up my hot rod build!
The best part is it's literally zero effort and the cost is so low that if you need another part with a slight tweak you just hit go and collect it in the morning - truly amazing.
I can see me 3D printing every part that I possibly can to speed up my hot rod build!
The best part is it's literally zero effort and the cost is so low that if you need another part with a slight tweak you just hit go and collect it in the morning - truly amazing.
jayz66ragtop
Well-known member
Welcome to the addiction!
Everything will start to look like a nail. Then if you haven't already, you'll start wanting/needing to learn about CAD.
Beelzeboss
Well-known member
Absolutely, every day I think of something else I could print
I've used CAD for years and use it every day for work, so that part's easy. Those bits I posted pictures of are all modelled by me and have recessed sections for adding acrylic shields, as well as hex holes to hold the M6 bolts for assembly - amazing stuff.lilscorpion
Well-known member
Used the printer yesterday to make some offset spacers for my Festool Domino. Previously I’ve been using these I made on the lathe. Even thou they’re simple, they do take a few minutes to spin down and require having some aluminum on hand too. I’ve been adding washers to achieve different offsets but every so often I misplace the washers and whatever insecure replacements aren’t necessarily the same which *****.
So tonight I made some spacers with very specific offsets for the most common 2 plywood thicknesses I use for cabinet and drawer making, printed them, and inset some threaded inserts.
The printers knock out little simple stuff like this quickly too. Even better, it’s simple to label each one.
Now I can identify them quickly and verify I have the right offset. This particular one will center the domino on 5/8” UV coated Baltic Birch.
In action they don’t need to be strong, just strong enough to keep things firmly together.
So tonight I made some spacers with very specific offsets for the most common 2 plywood thicknesses I use for cabinet and drawer making, printed them, and inset some threaded inserts.
The printers knock out little simple stuff like this quickly too. Even better, it’s simple to label each one.
Now I can identify them quickly and verify I have the right offset. This particular one will center the domino on 5/8” UV coated Baltic Birch.
In action they don’t need to be strong, just strong enough to keep things firmly together.
kinda proud of this one.
using PETG and TPU to make a modular door storage system for service trucks. small/ med/ large lengths. inserts snap into place so they dont come out readily. interlocking design. magnetic/VHB or screw on for my newest model.
can fit 13 to a bed plate of the larges:
using PETG and TPU to make a modular door storage system for service trucks. small/ med/ large lengths. inserts snap into place so they dont come out readily. interlocking design. magnetic/VHB or screw on for my newest model.
can fit 13 to a bed plate of the larges:
Jehannum
Well-known member
I printed off a bunch of clamps to hold my 3/4" airlines into unistrut. Sure beats the $7/per that Lowe's wants for them.
niget2002
Well-known member
Yup. 3D printers have a ton of uses. I've been using mine a bunch to print stuff that I plan to remake on the mill out of metal. It's great to help validate my designs for function and sizes. I do have to occasionally remember that PLA and some of the other plastics shrink when they cool.I've only had my 3D printer for a couple of months (Bambu P1S) but this thing is ridiculously useful.
I can see me 3D printing every part that I possibly can to speed up my hot rod build!
The best part is it's literally zero effort and the cost is so low that if you need another part with a slight tweak you just hit go and collect it in the morning - truly amazing.
cody1325
Well-known member
Got started with the Flashforge Adventurer 5M, but had a few headaches (plus somewhat pricey, and hard-to-find parts that only came from a couple of places--can't easily find some of them), and I hated the amount of cheap Dollar Tree grade plastic everywhere. I've had a number of problems with it--mostly owing to its cheap build quality. I also never got along with their software.
Since a buddy of mine has a Bambu (he mostly prints nylon CF--so I assume it's a higher-end model), I'm looking at the A1s. I also hear Bambu printers are more idiot-proof....
I'm leaning more towards the A1 Mini--I rarely needed the entire 250mm build surface of the AD5M, and it gives me more room to work around. It's also only about $250--barely more than I paid for the AD5M. $260 counting shipping from Bambu... Anything more is a bit more of a dent in my current budget than I'd like.
Lower maintenance, and an easier to work on design--plus no strangely placed LCD....
The purge wiper alone is a nice feature--as is the fail detection. The lack of both led to most of my problems with the AD5M. I had to partially disassemble it to get a piece of support got stuck under the bed, and that led to one problem after another.
Camera was something I was looking at for my AD5M, but it's included.
I am wondering about going with a basic model and adding AMS vs. just spending the extra cash on an AMS-capable A1 Mini. It's a feature I can see useful for adding detail to miniatures without painting--as well as making tags and such. I'd prefer to just add the feature later on.
Since a buddy of mine has a Bambu (he mostly prints nylon CF--so I assume it's a higher-end model), I'm looking at the A1s. I also hear Bambu printers are more idiot-proof....
I'm leaning more towards the A1 Mini--I rarely needed the entire 250mm build surface of the AD5M, and it gives me more room to work around. It's also only about $250--barely more than I paid for the AD5M. $260 counting shipping from Bambu... Anything more is a bit more of a dent in my current budget than I'd like.
Lower maintenance, and an easier to work on design--plus no strangely placed LCD....
The purge wiper alone is a nice feature--as is the fail detection. The lack of both led to most of my problems with the AD5M. I had to partially disassemble it to get a piece of support got stuck under the bed, and that led to one problem after another.
Camera was something I was looking at for my AD5M, but it's included.
I am wondering about going with a basic model and adding AMS vs. just spending the extra cash on an AMS-capable A1 Mini. It's a feature I can see useful for adding detail to miniatures without painting--as well as making tags and such. I'd prefer to just add the feature later on.
cody1325
Well-known member
I've been surprised at the number of simple plastic tools (and hardware) that I printed off for pocket change vs. buying them locally or ordering them.
Also, it saves the trip--useful when I'm bogged down with stuff around the house.
Cruzan80
Well-known member
You may also want to check out the used market, I got mine for $100 (A1 Mini). Othereise, ordering as a package means the AMS Lite is $150 extra vs $279 afterwards
Bambu allows you to multi-print color without an AMS, you just have to be present to do filament swaps. It is a bit of a pain if you are doing tons, but for a few layers (like inlaid lettering), it is perfectly fine. I have printed a few mods so I can hang 3x spools off of it, and ran tubing down so I don't have to manually feed much (a couple inches or so).
At "work" (HS teacher) we have X1C, X1E and even the H2D (unboxed last week, so haven't run it yet). All of them handle everything fine, but if you are just running PLA, the A1 isn't much of a downgrade at all. I got the A1 Mini for home for my son to be able to print without me helping (11yp).
I'm surprised you had issues with the 5M. Mine's been trouble free and no issue with build quality either. I think the only service I've done is clean the build plates. You can add a camera to it for something like $30. I have had a scrap of plastic get between the build plate and magnetic sheet. It creates a high spot that will cause a nozzle crash if you don't auto level before each print. I consider that a me failure, not a printer issue. I've also lost a part under the whole platform which can then cause a failure if the plate can't go all the way down. Again a me failure.
As for software, I use Orca, not FF slicer. Orca works well. I use a USB to transfer files so no idea about things like phone apps.
The screen is positioned nicely if the printer is below your eye line. I used to have mine on the floor so the top screen (similar to a BL P1P) is good. It wouldn't be good if you place the printer on a higher shelf.
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mellowdave
Active member
I'm sure this has been discussed on this thread previously, but in my fooling around in the 3D printing world, it isn't so much the printer itself that makes the difference (until we're talking batch printing and such) but rather the quality of the design. Most of the designs that are available in the "free" market, well, they ****. Even many of the paid models are just freeware that someone "licensed", and as such, not much better.
There are a few folks really doing good design work, but I see things like model makers not considering the medium when they lay out the model, thus you have shear lines that run parallel to print lines, and as soon as you exert any energy into the part, it separates. So they say things like "Well, print it out of ABS, or CF, it will be stronger". Maybe. BUT, you could get a lot more out of WHATEVER medium you use if you design the parts right to start with. Now I know that can be changed in the slicer or in the CAD software if you use it, but the reality is that most people don't.
When I first got started, it didn't take me long to realize that this is similar to track saws and garage routers (which people seem to think only exist to make shop parts and shop cabinets); most people are just using them to make more things for the printers. I'm using a Bambu P1S with AMS, and I too find it very useful for little things, not taking into account the time it takes to generate them. Once you figure out that the design is where the rubber meets the road, you realize that you will need SOME level of CAD or 3D design knowledge to get anywhere. This is my focus these days.
It's really rare to find genuinely functional and well-designed models for printing. How many folks on here make (design) their own models?
I am in the process of going through this whole almost 200-post thread, and as I find things that contradict or support what I've said, I'll link them in this post.
There are a few folks really doing good design work, but I see things like model makers not considering the medium when they lay out the model, thus you have shear lines that run parallel to print lines, and as soon as you exert any energy into the part, it separates. So they say things like "Well, print it out of ABS, or CF, it will be stronger". Maybe. BUT, you could get a lot more out of WHATEVER medium you use if you design the parts right to start with. Now I know that can be changed in the slicer or in the CAD software if you use it, but the reality is that most people don't.
When I first got started, it didn't take me long to realize that this is similar to track saws and garage routers (which people seem to think only exist to make shop parts and shop cabinets); most people are just using them to make more things for the printers. I'm using a Bambu P1S with AMS, and I too find it very useful for little things, not taking into account the time it takes to generate them. Once you figure out that the design is where the rubber meets the road, you realize that you will need SOME level of CAD or 3D design knowledge to get anywhere. This is my focus these days.
It's really rare to find genuinely functional and well-designed models for printing. How many folks on here make (design) their own models?
I am in the process of going through this whole almost 200-post thread, and as I find things that contradict or support what I've said, I'll link them in this post.
draco_1967
Well-known member
I do a lot of design work for myself. I am no engineer, and I've had to do a lot of learning to be able to use CAD effectively. I have had plenty of failures in my designs and had to go back to the drawing board to either fix the design, or re-think print orientation to get the results I needed. Learning CAD has opened up 3D printing to be much more useful in daily life for me. I have several parts on my motorcycles that are printed (navigation mounts, adapters, brackets, etc.). I repaired an old sewing machine by printing an NLA part. I have created little fixes for household issues that didn't have a commercially available solution. It is liberating and rewarding to be able to do these things myself.
I completely agree regarding designing it yourself and understanding the specific characteristics of a printed part. I've found free, functional parts to be a mixed bag. Some are will designed, many aren't. I've been doing CAD for many years so I'm not afraid to design my own parts. While I've been getting 3D prints for almost that long, only in the last few years have I given FDM printers any real consideration.
Practice certainly helps and even though I generally understand plastic design I've still learned some don'ts with 3D printers. I also have to fight my "design for molding" roots.
For those interested in CAD, the maker version of SOLIDWORKS is a really solid program. You can also find a SW teaching guide that involves designing an off road skate board. It's a good lesson plan and will help you progress through learning the software.