I'm gonna go less significant then that. The screen from the X1 or similar gets moved over to replace the existing crappy one....maybe some firmware tweaks but I don't expect any changes to the actual mechanical structure that would them make it different from the X1.
The Everything 3D Printer Thread
- Thread starter BoilermakerFan
- Start date
I'm gonna go less significant then that. The screen from the X1 or similar gets moved over to replace the existing crappy one....maybe some firmware tweaks but I don't expect any changes to the actual mechanical structure that would them make it different from the X1.
the p1s screen is so much better than touch screen IMO. esp for multiple printers.
new nozzle for sure.
In before the upcoming Bambu announcement....
The H2S appears to be fixed with a new filament buffer assy which is great. With it in my office maybe 8' away if I'm at the desk....even on prints that the chamber isn't heating it throws off some heat. My brother prints a lot of high temp stuff on his and he put on some insulating foam panels so I asked him about them and he was actually set to receive a set for his H2S so I put in an order for mine. Site is:
ibwadditive.com
He got his installed last night(no pic yet), mine show up later this week. If you're interested reach out via the contact information on the website, he's got about (30) kits unsold for the H2D/H2S, unsure if he's got anything available for a P1/X1. H2D/H2S pricing is $220 bucks which includes shipping and he was super responsive. Cuts down the noise a bit, big improvement in temp...my kids may be disappointed they can't see it in action...maybe I move the A1 upstairs to satisfy them
The H2S appears to be fixed with a new filament buffer assy which is great. With it in my office maybe 8' away if I'm at the desk....even on prints that the chamber isn't heating it throws off some heat. My brother prints a lot of high temp stuff on his and he put on some insulating foam panels so I asked him about them and he was actually set to receive a set for his H2S so I put in an order for mine. Site is:
IBW Additive
IBW Additive, Home of the Gold Standard in 3D Printer Insulation, HPPS. (In addition to other things...)
ibwadditive.com
He got his installed last night(no pic yet), mine show up later this week. If you're interested reach out via the contact information on the website, he's got about (30) kits unsold for the H2D/H2S, unsure if he's got anything available for a P1/X1. H2D/H2S pricing is $220 bucks which includes shipping and he was super responsive. Cuts down the noise a bit, big improvement in temp...my kids may be disappointed they can't see it in action...maybe I move the A1 upstairs to satisfy them
What corner of MN?
SW. about an hour east of sioux falls SD
sh944
ALLIANCE MEMBER
You couldn’t do the open house in the summer, before the snow hits? Lol
This 100%. I moved from two Ender 3V2 to a 5M about two years ago, what an incredible speed and print quality upgrade. I also added the box, light, fans, filter, etc. Stuff looked way better immediately and 1-2hour prints went to 15-30 mins. Also way less fiddling around, it was fun learning but it gets old when you just want to print something. Since then I have got a 5MPro, two A5DX multi material printers, and two Anycubic S1s with the 4 material handler/dryer. One has two attached for 8 materials. I very much recommend the Flashforge printers, they are great, amazing for the price. I do not recommend the Anycubic ones at all, they have been a nightmare to print anything besides PLA on because of bed warpage and strain gauge issues. And their firmware is incredibly buggy.
I just used the Flashforge slicer to re-slice my Ender files, it's been awhile but I don't remember it being difficult. I had most of the STLs though, which any slicer will handle easily.
Personal guess....no
ArcReactorKC
Well-known member
I could potentially come up. If you don't mind dropping the zip code I can check actual distance.
56155
Jehannum
Well-known member
To have a bit of fun, I awarded myself developer of the month on the project I work on.
I'm the only developer.
I'm the only developer.
To have a bit of fun, I awarded myself developer of the month on the project I work on.
I'm the only developer.
I'm sure it was well deserved. Keep up the good work!
Model A Fan
Well-known member
Given the fact this thread has reached 123 pages, is there a source for someone to start off reading/learning about 3D printing? I am looking to buy one (despite the wife's wishes) and do not have the ability to read a five year old thread.
I'm looking for something/source for info regarding different brand of printers (leaning toward a Bambu Labs or Prusa), would like to have one that is more advanced than beginner (more advanced than printing little trinkets, but don't want something in the $1000+ range unless they're just unbeatable and future-proof), source that shows what they're capable of, weaknesses and pluses, showing what materials it uses for printing, etc.
Are there any sources for this kind of information? It is overwhelming to dive into this hobby given how in the weeds one can get with the minutiae.
I want to print 3D remote control airplanes, toolbox organizers, widgets for gun safe, probably some toys for my kids, etc. I'm looking for an all-over printer.
I'm looking for something/source for info regarding different brand of printers (leaning toward a Bambu Labs or Prusa), would like to have one that is more advanced than beginner (more advanced than printing little trinkets, but don't want something in the $1000+ range unless they're just unbeatable and future-proof), source that shows what they're capable of, weaknesses and pluses, showing what materials it uses for printing, etc.
Are there any sources for this kind of information? It is overwhelming to dive into this hobby given how in the weeds one can get with the minutiae.
I want to print 3D remote control airplanes, toolbox organizers, widgets for gun safe, probably some toys for my kids, etc. I'm looking for an all-over printer.
Yankeefarmer
Well-known member
@Model A Fan it’s too easy to get into analysis paralysis over which printer to buy. I was in the same situation at the end of last year as you are now. So, I’ll make a recommendation for others here to shoot at: just buy a Bambu P1S Combo. $749 with free shipping now.
I bought an X1 Carbon Combo (the Combo means it comes with an AMS for multi-filament capability) and am completely satisfied with it, and the functionality of the P1S is very similar. You want an enclosed printer so you can print the higher temperature filaments for functional parts. You want a system like the AMS for auto reload of a backup filament spool, or using a dissimilar filament as an interface layer between your part and supports (PLA for PETG prints and vice-versa). It makes support removal much easier.
I say Bambu because I see others frequently referring to them as printers that just work. I‘ve had negligible print failures and have always been able to correct them using info on help forums. I think it’s a bit like Ford, Chevy, Toyota, and sometimes Chrysler/Mopar/Stellantis
, if you stick with one of the big few, you’ll probably be okay. There was a time earlier this year when people were upset about Bambu’s software changes that seemed to make for an Apple-like closed ecosystem. I think that storm has largely blown over, and I know I’ll be corrected here if I’m wrong.
And the reason I say “just buy one” is because you can then focus your learning on that one brand’s ideosyncracies rather than worrying about which ideosyncracy is a bigger worry before putting your toe in the water.
Oh yeah, my wife gave me a lot of **** about buying my X1C, and she then got $3500 of new chairs that look pretty in a room we don’t use. She got over the printer quickly when she realized that other people thought some of the stuff I was making was pretty neat.
Edited to add: watch some YouTube videos on printer models you are considering.
I bought an X1 Carbon Combo (the Combo means it comes with an AMS for multi-filament capability) and am completely satisfied with it, and the functionality of the P1S is very similar. You want an enclosed printer so you can print the higher temperature filaments for functional parts. You want a system like the AMS for auto reload of a backup filament spool, or using a dissimilar filament as an interface layer between your part and supports (PLA for PETG prints and vice-versa). It makes support removal much easier.
I say Bambu because I see others frequently referring to them as printers that just work. I‘ve had negligible print failures and have always been able to correct them using info on help forums. I think it’s a bit like Ford, Chevy, Toyota, and sometimes Chrysler/Mopar/Stellantis
, if you stick with one of the big few, you’ll probably be okay. There was a time earlier this year when people were upset about Bambu’s software changes that seemed to make for an Apple-like closed ecosystem. I think that storm has largely blown over, and I know I’ll be corrected here if I’m wrong.And the reason I say “just buy one” is because you can then focus your learning on that one brand’s ideosyncracies rather than worrying about which ideosyncracy is a bigger worry before putting your toe in the water.
Oh yeah, my wife gave me a lot of **** about buying my X1C, and she then got $3500 of new chairs that look pretty in a room we don’t use. She got over the printer quickly when she realized that other people thought some of the stuff I was making was pretty neat.
Edited to add: watch some YouTube videos on printer models you are considering.
Jehannum
Well-known member
I think the old standby still applies:
if you want 3D printing to be your hobby, get a Prusa or a Bambu.
If you want 3D printers to be your hobby, get a Creality.
I have a Creality. It texts me when my prints are finished. I have my doubts whether it'll text me when it burns my laundry room down.
Model A Fan
Well-known member
@Model A Fan it’s too easy to get into analysis paralysis over which printer to buy. I was in the same situation at the end of last year as you are now. So, I’ll make a recommendation for others here to shoot at: just buy a Bambu P1S Combo. $749 with free shipping now.
I bought an X1 Carbon Combo (the Combo means it comes with an AMS for multi-filament capability) and am completely satisfied with it, and the functionality of the P1S is very similar. You want an enclosed printer so you can print the higher temperature filaments for functional parts. You want a system like the AMS for auto reload of a backup filament spool, or using a dissimilar filament as an interface layer between your part and supports (PLA for PETG prints and vice-versa). It makes support removal much easier.
I say Bambu because I see others frequently referring to them as printers that just work. I‘ve had negligible print failures and have always been able to correct them using info on help forums. I think it’s a bit like Ford, Chevy, Toyota, and sometimes Chrysler/Mopar/Stellantis
And the reason I say “just buy one” is because you can then focus your learning on that one brand’s ideosyncracies rather than worrying about which ideosyncracy is a bigger worry before putting your toe in the water.
Oh yeah, my wife gave me a lot of **** about buying my X1C, and she then got $3500 of new chairs that look pretty in a room we don’t use. She got over the printer quickly when she realized that other people thought some of the stuff I was making was pretty neat.
Edited to add: watch some YouTube videos on printer models you are considering.
What I'm looking at printing mostly is the free open source stuff, but some of the prints you pay for are evidently only usable on machines that use the Prusa i3 system? Bambu is the brand I'll likely go for, but at this stage I'm learning what is what. Historically, are there Black Friday deals usually?
Analysis Paralysis is very real with this sort of purchase and learning all the details. I tend to get it when making a big purchase and the last one I had this level on was replacing the entire braking system on my truck. Price comparison, parts compatibility, sourcing from which vendors, etc. Still haven't done the project as the weather has changed too quickly!
Going with the P1S (https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/p1s?id=583855874739507208), will I feel the need to upgrade anytime soon (within a few years)? That's the worst on big purchases is wishing you spent the bigger money up front instead of the less expensive beginner version. Right now that one is $650 + tax. The one I was really impressed by, but got sticker shock on, is the H2S, but it is twice the price.
Those are the brands I've been looking at the most, so thank you for confirming my searches and research.
Last edited:
bugnut
ALLIANCE MEMBER
@Model A Fan i'll add my .02 I started with a prusa, as I did not want to learn the intricacies of how to make a machine work. It worked perfectly out of the box. After a while print speed and a few failures took the toll on me and I moved up to the Bambu. I now have both, 80% of the work goes to the Bambu.
I agree with the other earlier posts...
I agree with the other earlier posts...
Yankeefarmer
Well-known member
@Model A Fan- In your budgeting process, I’d recommend you plan to purchase a filament dryer also. After the humidity of the summer here, I’ve had two instances of broken filament in my AMS after weeks of nonuse. (Easily fixed, just a PIA) I attribute it to moisture absorption. There are some types of filaments where it is recommended you dry new filament before use.
@Model A Fan - If you don't know CAD, first step is to learn CAD. I have come to despise them with a passion, but I still thing Fusion 360 is the best free mechanical software. However, I'm learning Onshape and it is pretty good. FreeCad is good, but it has a steep learning curve. Blender if you want to do more artistic things.
As for the printer yourself, @Jehannum is not wrong. However, if you are just dabbling, $200 on an Ender 3 or K1 clone is a lot more palatable than $800 or $1000 on a Bambu. The Bambu A1 might be the middle ground, but everyone I know who has stayed with the hobby has out grown them and moved to a larger printer quickly. The clones are pretty good printers these days but they are a little more finicky. I think they are the sweet spot of cheap and useful. They will do anything a Bambu will do, just a little bit slower with a little more frustration. If it is a hobby that sticks, you can upgrade the Ender or jump to the Bambu or Prusa. Being forced to mess with the printer, you also learn a lot more about printing/tunning and ultimately are better at it.
As for the printer yourself, @Jehannum is not wrong. However, if you are just dabbling, $200 on an Ender 3 or K1 clone is a lot more palatable than $800 or $1000 on a Bambu. The Bambu A1 might be the middle ground, but everyone I know who has stayed with the hobby has out grown them and moved to a larger printer quickly. The clones are pretty good printers these days but they are a little more finicky. I think they are the sweet spot of cheap and useful. They will do anything a Bambu will do, just a little bit slower with a little more frustration. If it is a hobby that sticks, you can upgrade the Ender or jump to the Bambu or Prusa. Being forced to mess with the printer, you also learn a lot more about printing/tunning and ultimately are better at it.
draco_1967
Well-known member
I have had my P1S for a year now. It has done everything I've asked of it so far. I do not feel a need to upgrade any time soon. However, I have GAS (gear acquisition syndrome) and I want to upgrade to an H2 series, just because it would be neat to have some additional features and larger build platform. (Un)fortunately, the budget does not allow me to do so right now. Plus, I don't want to have to sleep in the garage when Mrs. Draco kicks me out for buying another tool upgrade I don't need...What I'm looking at printing mostly is the free open source stuff, but some of the prints you pay for are evidently only usable on machines that use the Prusa i3 system? Bambu is the brand I'll likely go for, but at this stage I'm learning what is what. Historically, are there Black Friday deals usually?
Analysis Paralysis is very real with this sort of purchase and learning all the details. I tend to get it when making a big purchase and the last one I had this level on was replacing the entire braking system on my truck. Price comparison, parts compatibility, sourcing from which vendors, etc. Still haven't done the project as the weather has changed too quickly!
Going with the P1S (https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/p1s?id=583855874739507208), will I feel the need to upgrade anytime soon (within a few years)? That's the worst on big purchases is wishing you spent the bigger money up front instead of the less expensive beginner version. Right now that one is $650 + tax. The one I was really impressed by, but got sticker shock on, is the H2S, but it is twice the price.
Those are the brands I've been looking at the most, so thank you for confirming my searches and research.
The current Flashforge deals on the 5M (open frame Core XY), 5M Pro (enclosed with air filtration) and the 5X (open frame multi material) are really great values. You have to visit one of the deal websites to figure out the coupons etc but the 5M is now under $200 and the others are well under $300. All are very good value alternatives to the Bambu printers. For shop use I would suggest the 5M Pro because you are more likely to want advanced materials vs multi color. While not strictly true, I consider open printers basically for PLA and PETG only. In my case I've been PLA only because the printer is in the living space of the house. Out gassing is a concern.
86turbodsl
Well-known member
Well i bought a Creality K1 and that thing was pretty much pull it out of the box and go to town. Not sure what Creality you were playing with.
Jehannum
Well-known member
I've got the K2 plus with two of their CFS switchers.
I graduated to it from (first) an Ender 3, and then a CR-10, both of which were heavily modified.
To have a bit of fun, I awarded myself developer of the month on the project I work on.
I'm the only developer.
Dang, wish I had thought of that when I was working. On my self-evaluation, I could have listed "Developer of the month - 12 months in a row!"
Got my core one going. My other printers are a mk3.5s and a mk3s+ so this is quite the upgrade. Assembly took about 10-12 hours over 3 nights and about an hour of calibration / troubleshooting as I had connected the buddy board cable backwards lol.
I'm looking to make some car parts for my eg hatch so I wanted something enclosed for filaments like ASA. (I've got the filtration upgrade waiting to be installed)
I'm looking to make some car parts for my eg hatch so I wanted something enclosed for filaments like ASA. (I've got the filtration upgrade waiting to be installed)
sh944
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I started with Qidi a while back, and while it was a solid machine, I find that Bambu has been far superior, pretty much across the board for me. I’ve gotten four of them, all X1Cs, and have run the hell out of two of them and they’ve been all but flawless. If you want to get into printing instead of futzing with a printer, Bambu is the best route, imo. P1S or X1C, depending on your budget but if you want to print ASA, go with the X1C.
In before the upcoming Bambu announcement....
The H2S appears to be fixed with a new filament buffer assy which is great. With it in my office maybe 8' away if I'm at the desk....even on prints that the chamber isn't heating it throws off some heat. My brother prints a lot of high temp stuff on his and he put on some insulating foam panels so I asked him about them and he was actually set to receive a set for his H2S so I put in an order for mine. Site is:
IBW Additive
IBW Additive, Home of the Gold Standard in 3D Printer Insulation, HPPS. (In addition to other things...)
He got his installed last night(no pic yet), mine show up later this week. If you're interested reach out via the contact information on the website, he's got about (30) kits unsold for the H2D/H2S, unsure if he's got anything available for a P1/X1. H2D/H2S pricing is $220 bucks which includes shipping and he was super responsive. Cuts down the noise a bit, big improvement in temp...my kids may be disappointed they can't see it in action...maybe I move the A1 upstairs to satisfy them
Got the foam on and a picture taken:
Very happy with it. Foam on the door isn't perfectly square....annoying but my fault not the vendors and hard to tell from 5' away as I sit at my desk. High quality, well cut, full adhesive back with 3M adhesive, nice packaging and shipped promptly. I don't have any electric current monitoring on it, but it's noticeably quieter and throwing off much less heat so I fully believe that it enables better temp control and lower energy usage on prints with high chamber temps (ABS, ASA etc)
(4) panels total...front, top and left and right side...install was under 5 minutes...definitely recommend if you're printing a lot of high temp stuff or if it's in a room that is frequently occupied while it's in use.
Just made this weapon light mount for my VR80 shotgun. Yeah, I know you can easily buy cheap mounts, but I already had the flashlight, so...
Grabcad files: https://grabcad.com/library/picatinny-mount-28mm-flashlight-holder-1
Grabcad files: https://grabcad.com/library/picatinny-mount-28mm-flashlight-holder-1
There, fixed it for ya.
Jehannum
Well-known member
Rolling out a first go at the shift pattern for the 5 speed in my '67 GTO.
Not something I'd normally care about, but I've been running the OEM 4 speed shift knob for a while, and sometimes when a new *** is in the seat, they look at it and think it means something.
Turning the rest out of walnut to match the original on the wood lathe. I'll do the base and threads out of aluminum on the metal lathe.
Not something I'd normally care about, but I've been running the OEM 4 speed shift knob for a while, and sometimes when a new *** is in the seat, they look at it and think it means something.
Turning the rest out of walnut to match the original on the wood lathe. I'll do the base and threads out of aluminum on the metal lathe.
Having some fun with the core one. I printed the side drawer mod and a wall shelf for filament.
I also got the filtration unit setup and did some test prints in ASA. The prints came out pretty good but I quickly learned you don't use ASA on the smooth sheet. (I misread the ASA guide)
Oops.
I also got the filtration unit setup and did some test prints in ASA. The prints came out pretty good but I quickly learned you don't use ASA on the smooth sheet. (I misread the ASA guide)
Oops.
Jehannum
Well-known member
Almost finished.Rolling out a first go at the shift pattern for the 5 speed in my '67 GTO.
Not something I'd normally care about, but I've been running the OEM 4 speed shift knob for a while, and sometimes when a new *** is in the seat, they look at it and think it means something.
Turning the rest out of walnut to match the original on the wood lathe. I'll do the base and threads out of aluminum on the metal lathe.
Ended up turning the threaded portion out of a piece of a scrap steering idler shaft from an old Datsun roadster (I turned part of it into a tool to install the bronze bushing for a not scrap one, and then put it away as stock for turning), then blued it in a can full of brass chips. The walnut was off the shelf. All that's left before the epoxy pour to seal the shift pattern is waiting for the epoxy holding it in the shift knob to cure.
Here's a picture of what was original to the car.
I feel like I've captured the look and feel pretty well.
moab11
Well-known member
That is cool!
Jehannum
Well-known member
Poured the epoxy, this thing is coming out better than I deserve.
Just gonna play with fire and keep popping the bubbles as they form.
Just gonna play with fire and keep popping the bubbles as they form.
Push pads for the up/down switch on an outdoor chair lift
Printed in PETG then laser marked for the letters etc. could have printed the lettering etc in white, but was out of white PETG and wanted to try the laser.
Printed in PETG then laser marked for the letters etc. could have printed the lettering etc in white, but was out of white PETG and wanted to try the laser.