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The Everything 3D Printer Thread

ArcReactorKC

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I have an Ender 3 V2 and am having some issues with it feeding the filament. I am fairly new to this and have been making prints just for fun. I changed my filament out to another color, same diameter as the previous that was printing fine. I started a print, and it started off fine and then it stopped feeding. The wheels were just slipping on the filament. I checked for any obstructions and changed the extruder tip and tried again without success. Next, I pulled the feed wheels and cleaned them off and it's still not working. I have adjusted the tension and it started popping until I loosened it a little. I tried putting the previous filament in and that's not feeding either. My extruder temp was 200, which is what it has been at for successful prints. Any other ideas to try? Thank you!
The creality extruders require the ptfe tubing make very good solid contact with the nozzle. You may want to try the "james hatfield" trick.

A lot of time when this is happening the ptfe is backing out of the connector leaving a gap that allows filament to solidify and create a jam.

 
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tlevan03

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The creality extruders require the ptfe tubing make very good solid contact with the nozzle. You may want to try the "james hatfield" trick.

A lot of time when this is happening the ptfe is backing out of the connector leaving a gap that allows filament to solidify and create a jam.

Makes sense and thats probably whats going on. Ill give it a shot when I get home. Thanks!
 

tlevan03

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Check out my posts in this thread, I just had, what sounds like, the exact same issues.
Thanks, Mark. Im going to try the connection between the tip and the tube first and hopefully that is the issue. If not then I will go your route. Thanks again!
 

Poolshark314

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MD
I have an Ender 3 V2 and am having some issues with it feeding the filament. I am fairly new to this and have been making prints just for fun. I changed my filament out to another color, same diameter as the previous that was printing fine. I started a print, and it started off fine and then it stopped feeding. The wheels were just slipping on the filament. I checked for any obstructions and changed the extruder tip and tried again without success. Next, I pulled the feed wheels and cleaned them off and it's still not working. I have adjusted the tension and it started popping until I loosened it a little. I tried putting the previous filament in and that's not feeding either. My extruder temp was 200, which is what it has been at for successful prints. Any other ideas to try? Thank you!
I would check to make sure the extruder arm isn't cracked. All Ender 3 models are prone to the plastic arm eventually failing. Easy to replace with a new aluminum one
 

Poolshark314

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The creality extruders require the ptfe tubing make very good solid contact with the nozzle. You may want to try the "james hatfield" trick.

A lot of time when this is happening the ptfe is backing out of the connector leaving a gap that allows filament to solidify and create a jam.

I think you mean Luke Hatfield (Luke's Hotend fix). James Hetfield is the lead singer of Metallica
 

LS1-IROC

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Aug 6, 2011
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Grand Rapids MI
Received my my Bambu X-1 Carbon a few days ago. Finally had some time to play around with it. It seems to print very nice right out of the box. I printed a few nick-knack's for the kids and wife. Figured I'd try using the AMS for a multi color print. It printed great, no issues switching between filaments. About time to put this thing to work and make me some money...lol
IMG_6412.JPG
 

ArcReactorKC

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@LS1-IROC, dad gummit you're making my wallet twitch!
Like I've said previously in this thread, the Bambu X1C is a huge game changer for the industry.

I can replace 3 or 4 of my other "farm" printers with just the X1C because of it's speed. The AMS is just icing on the cake.

The X1CC is worth every penny, but even for the guys who don't want to drop well over a grand you can get a p1p and add the AMS to it and still be about the price of a prusa without multi-material.
 

sh944

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Linwood, KS
+1^

I find myself doing stuff like this more often, just because the speed allows me to not tie up the printer nearly as long... plus, I really like having my drawers organized in my toolboxes. I needed a cheap electrical test set for home since I took my good Fluke stuff to my garage condo and wanted a tray for it.

IMG_2090-1.jpgIMG_2088-1.jpg
 

LS1-IROC

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@LS1-IROC, dad gummit you're making my wallet twitch!
Sorry :).....yes it's expensive but I think it's a great value for the money. I don't expect it to stay priced this low in the future. We have a couple $6K Ultimakers at work, and this printer blows them away for speed while still maintaining a high degree of quality.
 

sh944

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I'd agree, I am looking at adding a second one at my office before the price goes up.

One thing I will say, overall, I suspect these are overall going to come down in price and go up in capability and I wouldn't be terribly surprised to start seeing Wal-Mart stocking filament before long. Its becoming very mainstream at this point, from my perspective.
 

vwpieces

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Apr 28, 2020
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Hills, PA
Received my my Bambu X-1 Carbon a few days ago. Finally had some time to play around with it. It seems to print very nice right out of the box. I printed a few nick-knack's for the kids and wife. Figured I'd try using the AMS for a multi color print. It printed great, no issues switching between filaments. About time to put this thing to work and make me some money...lol
IMG_6412.JPG
Nice work for only a few days in.
 

MadeByMiller

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Dec 29, 2018
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Rapid City, SD
From my garage gallery thread, since the X1C is a hot topic here:

My Bambu Lab X1C arrived last Wednesday and I've been digging into it as time's allowed. First off - I'm pleased with the machine so far. I haven't got much experience with it yet, but so far so good.

One thing that I really don't like about the printer is the proprietary nature of it. They are really pushing you into their ecosystem, which runs quite contrary to the spirit of the 3D printing "community". The most glaring form of this walled garden in my opinion is the dimensions of their filament spools and corresponding AMS unit. Although they are 1kg spools which is the industry standard, they made them dimensionally smaller than most (not all) filament manufacturers - including the 3D Fuel and Atomic spools that I use most. As such, my 3D Fuel spools would not fit in the AMS with the lid closed, and my Atomic spools had the same problem with the added issue that they are borderline too wide to work reliably.

Fortunately, the open source natured 3D printing world has already devised a solution for this annoyance - The Hydra AMS. I chose to print this version, which has some slight changes over the original. After following the advise of the original Printables description and dialing in the flow ratio with some calibration prints, I sliced and printed the modification. The prints went off without a hitch and looked quite good I might add, not as glossy as I'm used to seeing on my Prusas, but really nice wall finishes and dimensional accuracy. The webcam and phone app are really massive features of this machine, as I was able to monitor and confirm print status even from over 100 miles away when we were celebrating Easter at my in-law's (happy Easter by the way!). Another excellent feature of the AMS is the ability to seamlessly switch to a new spool of the same filament once the current one has been exhausted, which I tested on the last print in the middle of the night and happily woke up to an empty spool and a complete print with zero issues despite the filament change.

The mod allows for much wider spools now, and I can just barely shut the AMS lid with my 3D Fuel spools now (maybe a bit too close for comfort), although the Atomic spools still don't fit with the lid shut. I'm considering printing smaller diameter idler rollers to bring the spools down a hair, but if that doesn't work this AMS lid wedge/spacer certainly will.

Overall, the mod was easy to do and allows me to stick it to the manufacturer who would prefer I be stuck buying their filament. I'll continue to update my experiences with this machine as I get more print hours on it.

The three parts printed:
IMG_5458.JPG

The AMS disassembled and ready to reassemble with the new parts:
IMG_5459.JPG

Comparing the old and new:
IMG_5462.JPG

Installed:
IMG_5465.JPG
IMG_5468.JPG
IMG_5470.JPG

I haven't performed a print since I completed the mod yesterday, but everything appears to be working as if it hadn't been modified.
 

WhoWhatNow

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Feb 22, 2011
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Collegeville, PA
I am having some trouble with my Prusa MK3. I recently changed the hot end due to filament getting stuck. I needed the printer up and running so I put a new hot end in. During my last print the hot end became clogged once again. Looking at the actual hot end there is plastic melted over the entire bottom of the hot end. Any idea what is happening here? I am printing with III3D PETG using the Prusa generic PET settings except for nozzle temperature for other layers. This is set to 245 because I was having issues with upper layers not bonding to the lower layers.
 

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Mark_17

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NJ

They dropped something that looks similar to the Bambu Lab printers. P{ricing seems pretty good too at $999.99
 

Poolshark314

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Jul 5, 2021
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MD
I am having some trouble with my Prusa MK3. I recently changed the hot end due to filament getting stuck. I needed the printer up and running so I put a new hot end in. During my last print the hot end became clogged once again. Looking at the actual hot end there is plastic melted over the entire bottom of the hot end. Any idea what is happening here? I am printing with III3D PETG using the Prusa generic PET settings except for nozzle temperature for other layers. This is set to 245 because I was having issues with upper layers not bonding to the lower layers.
I would guess that your bowden tube is not properly seated against your hot end. Luke's hotend fix would apply to you as well to try if that is the issue
 
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Jswain

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Apr 26, 2013
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Calgary, AB
I am having some trouble with my Prusa MK3. I recently changed the hot end due to filament getting stuck. I needed the printer up and running so I put a new hot end in. During my last print the hot end became clogged once again. Looking at the actual hot end there is plastic melted over the entire bottom of the hot end. Any idea what is happening here? I am printing with III3D PETG using the Prusa generic PET settings except for nozzle temperature for other layers. This is set to 245 because I was having issues with upper layers not bonding to the lower layers.
Did you heat up the hotend to printing temp then tighten the nozzle? You may need to loosen the nozzle and screw the heartbreak down a bit further to ensure the nozzle seats up against it when tightened
 

ArcReactorKC

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Out in the county NE of KCMO

They dropped something that looks similar to the Bambu Lab printers. P{ricing seems pretty good too at $999.99
On paper and in media this looks like a really good printer. I do wonder how the quality will be when they show up.

It's a big departure for Creality to not use V-slot with wheels!
If creality could come up with an AMS system they could really get some business back away from Bambu. As it stands now though I think the k1 will eat into the Bambu P1P sales for sure.

The K1 max is a great option to have with a larger build volume.
 

laser3kw

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northen IL
Ok - yous guys made me do it! I just got my Anycubic Vyper! Set up couldn't be easier - take pre-assemblied base /Y axis, install gantry, tighten 4 screws (with provided tools), mount display and plug harnesses in- done. Did the start up procedure and auto level. Ran the test bench mark Owl. 1 hour 15 minutes later, a very nice, detailed owl figure. And quiet!
Now - down the rabbit hole - filaments, nozzles, parameters.....
 

mv213

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Sep 29, 2014
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Dallas, OR (the OTHER "Big D")
Ok - yous guys made me do it! I just got my Anycubic Vyper! Set up couldn't be easier - take pre-assemblied base /Y axis, install gantry, tighten 4 screws (with provided tools), mount display and plug harnesses in- done. Did the start up procedure and auto level. Ran the test bench mark Owl. 1 hour 15 minutes later, a very nice, detailed owl figure. And quiet!
Now - down the rabbit hole - filaments, nozzles, parameters.....
That’s the printer I bought last year. Really a nice printer. I’m already wishing for a larger version!
 

cmandp

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Dec 22, 2011
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New Jersey
Noticed that my oil drain had a leaky valve so just printed a threaded cap for it real quick to stop the leak
Did you seal it with epoxy (or otherwise)?

On another note. I'm going to have to look into the Bambu printers for work. I was thinking it would be good to supplement out larger expensive printers with something like a couple of Utilimakers. I just want something with a enclosed chamber to print small parts and not require as much training or fiddling as something like a Creality printer.
 

LeonardY

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Apr 16, 2011
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Southern California
Thougtht I would toss this out. QIDI released their high speed printers. They are all using Klipper. One of them has a print volume of 325x325x325.
These all seem similar to the Bamboo without the AMS. I've seen a few reviews and they are positive.
I own a QIDI X-MAX and have had good quality prints. It printed great right out of the box.
I had a few issues and QIDI has always been responsive. And in each case they solved the problem.
 

Poolshark314

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Did you seal it with epoxy (or otherwise)?

On another note. I'm going to have to look into the Bambu printers for work. I was thinking it would be good to supplement out larger expensive printers with something like a couple of Utilimakers. I just want something with a enclosed chamber to print small parts and not require as much training or fiddling as something like a Creality printer.
No I just wanted a quick solution to slow the leak down. I think my 2.0 version might have a center section that will accept a o-ring to seal
 

jeepxj

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Mar 2, 2008
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"I need a box for my custom PCB setup with a couple knobs on it"


and that's how i ended up ordering a 3d printer. mk4 prusa on the way.

and trying to learn fusion 360 between calls and kiddo things.

first project: the worlds best ag cup holder.
 

laser3kw

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Nov 17, 2012
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Filament- am I reading things right? "PLA" is biodegradable? If I make something that I want to use in the shop, say a bracket or a mock-up part, if I make it out of PLA it will degrade away with time? Or worse yet if it gets wet?
From what I have read, I should use PETG?
Any advice?
 

kaymccampbell

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Feb 27, 2015
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Upstate New York
Filament- am I reading things right? "PLA" is biodegradable? If I make something that I want to use in the shop, say a bracket or a mock-up part, if I make it out of PLA it will degrade away with time? Or worse yet if it gets wet?
From what I have read, I should use PETG?
Any advice?
It's thousands of years instead of millions. You'll outlive it.
 

Poolshark314

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Jul 5, 2021
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MD
Anybody else here get in on the Monoprice Joule deal? It's a Voxelab Aquila clone (which is the same as an Ender 3 v2). Couldn't pass it up and it prints great!
1682127925301.png
 

sh944

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Jan 1, 2014
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Linwood, KS
PLA doesn’t hold up in outdoor applications in direct sunlight or hotter temps. It’s good for prototyping and indoor items, low stress parts, etc. Id suggest making the jump to ASA sooner rather than later, it’s stronger and has much better temperature stability and is just as easy to work with as PLA.
 

jeepxj

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PLA doesn’t hold up in outdoor applications in direct sunlight or hotter temps. It’s good for prototyping and indoor items, low stress parts, etc. Id suggest making the jump to ASA sooner rather than later, it’s stronger and has much better temperature stability and is just as easy to work with as PLA.
from my understanding:
pla for quick indoor stuff
petg is a balance of strength and UV resistance.
ASA for uv resist and strength as cost of filament being water hungry?
 
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