I printed a pla rabbit and it ended up out in my wife’s garden for the last 7 years. I thought pla was biodegradable it’s not. I print pla at 200C it will withstand any temp you call home. PLA is a great filament, I use it 95% of the time. Host make stuff, figure out what you like. Don’t listen to 95% of what’s out there, they are just trying to sell you ****.
The Everything 3D Printer Thread
- Thread starter BoilermakerFan
- Start date
kaymccampbell
Well-known member
The first thing I designed and printed, was a shift knob for a Caravan, out of PLA. It's been in that car for years, getting cooked in the sun, froze in the winter. It hasn't broken down yet.
Poolshark314
Well-known member
I have definitely had some test prints out in the sun and had them deform after touching them while in the heat. I use PETG for anything that goes outside. I do think that coating PLA with a clear coat helps protect it
LeonardY
Well-known member
Here's a great article on it.
New process makes ‘biodegradable’ plastics truly compostable
Ting Xu’s lab has embedded polymer-eating enzymes in plastic to allow programmed degradation after the plastic’s useful life is over
“PLA can only be biologically degraded under industrial composting conditions.“
sh944
ALLIANCE MEMBER
My resource on additive materials is an Engineer that works for me who is degreed in materials science so I am highly confident in my information. Having said that, there are a lot of factors that play into the success of a print such as wall thickness. exposure ratio, temp range, infill % and cross-section type, etc...
We are dealing with annealing process, factoring print speed vs adhesion, etc on various products that we move into final production for our clients, so I believe we are significantly past the hobbyist level when it comes to print technology and we have real world testing to support our conclusions.
PLA is *great* stuff for a lot of situations, but you give up very little moving to ASA instead and you should give it some consideration, imo. PETG, PLA+, etc all have their place as well.
We are dealing with annealing process, factoring print speed vs adhesion, etc on various products that we move into final production for our clients, so I believe we are significantly past the hobbyist level when it comes to print technology and we have real world testing to support our conclusions.
PLA is *great* stuff for a lot of situations, but you give up very little moving to ASA instead and you should give it some consideration, imo. PETG, PLA+, etc all have their place as well.
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86turbodsl
Well-known member
Why am i just now hearing about ASA? Sounds great!
sh944
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Just be aware that ASA has plenty of trade-offs as well. All materials generally do. ASA is very good for impact strength and UV resistance though, and from my own experience, it prints about as easily (albeit at higher temps) than PLA or PLA+.
I was really impressed with how easily ASA printed the first time I tried it.
Any suggestions on specific brands of ASA?
Polymaker is solid. The black is more of a dark gray, though (see my Bridgeport knee adapter earlier in this thread). I don't care about the color but maybe someone would.
draco_1967
Well-known member
A little while back, there were a few people with extruding problems (extruder clicking, clogs, etc.). Last night, I was struggling with my Ender 3 v2. The extruder was clicking badly, and way under extruding. I checked for a clogged nozzle, checked the bowden tube and hot end, and checked the extruder gear. None seemed to be the culprit.
I was working with a new to me filament (Priline PLA+CF), and had just printed a calibration cube perfectly. After making step adjustments, I couldn't get it to print another cube. Well, it turned out the nozzle temp was too low. I had switched over to a steel nozzle, and didn't up the temp to compensate. I bumped it up from 210C to 215C, and it started printing perfectly again. I don't know why the first cube printed so well, but the printer wasn't having any more of that!
Moral of the story, don't forget to make sure you have the right temp for the filament and extruder setup...
ETA: And I want a Bamboo X1 NOW! I have to wait 11 hours for these brackets to print. I have to print 4 sets of them too!
I was working with a new to me filament (Priline PLA+CF), and had just printed a calibration cube perfectly. After making step adjustments, I couldn't get it to print another cube. Well, it turned out the nozzle temp was too low. I had switched over to a steel nozzle, and didn't up the temp to compensate. I bumped it up from 210C to 215C, and it started printing perfectly again. I don't know why the first cube printed so well, but the printer wasn't having any more of that!
Moral of the story, don't forget to make sure you have the right temp for the filament and extruder setup...
ETA: And I want a Bamboo X1 NOW! I have to wait 11 hours for these brackets to print. I have to print 4 sets of them too!
laser3kw
Well-known member
Thanks for the tip!
I went to their site to buy filament and..... they are out of stock of black! Doh!
.and they are 30% cheaper than Anycubic
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what are you printing so much of?
Appreciate the info! I'll give it a try.
Don't think I ever posted my new one in here...so here she is. Voron v2.4 in 300mm configuration. Bought pre-built from a local guy who built and modded/tuned it then got bored when nothing else to do.....so she's mine now. Host of mods I don't all understand yet....but learning!
laser3kw
Well-known member
I read that and thought the same. Kaymccampbell is correct that it won't designate in our life time. I found on a suppliers website verbiage to support that. It may not look as pretty or pristine after year outdoors, but it won't disappear into the earth.
Certified Drunk
Well-known member
LeonardY
Well-known member
You could use TPU. It's meant to be flexible.
LeonardY
Well-known member
I like Clough42. He did this review.
Guess QIDI needs to do some revisions.
Any idea what the print settings were in terms of infill %, perimeters or material type? I haven't done a lot of parts with designed living hinges/flex like that but it's taken me several iterations when I did to get enough strength to work but not too much that it prevents any movement. There isn't a lot of area for flexing to occur....so first guess recommendation would be to take whatever the infill % and number of perimeters that was printed with was and cut both in half and see if you get better compression
Fun experiment here but don't think I'm going to end up printing this...but am curious to see how it would work out....In the process of setting up dust collection for my garage sawdust making addiction and need a cyclone separator basically this:
I'm ducting mine in 6" PVC so need the big one...but with how little is there I'm struggling to pay that price...but I don't have the time right now to try and make one the hard way...so was wondering if my plastic printing robots could....so found this on Grabcad and included the .step files so it was a bit easier to manipulate in CAD and scale up for approximately 6" inputs/outputs:
Free CAD Designs, Files & 3D Models | The GrabCAD Community Library
The GrabCAD Library offers millions of free CAD designs, CAD files, and 3D models. Join the GrabCAD Community today to gain access and download!
Changed my printer machine settings from 300 x 300 x 300 to 900 x 900 x 900 so that it would "fit" on the bed and slice....and over an hour ago I hit slice:
And it's still not done....lol
The settings are all made up, mostly I want to see print time in this format and material usage but pretty sure it's going to tell me that I should stop screwing around and buy it as the headache of breaking into pieces and then reassembly etc isn't worth it....but am now curious to see how long it takes for this to finish slicing and what the material and time estimates are!
There is one of those cyclone type prints on thingy site for a 5 gallon bucket. I printed it but never assembled it because the $40 Bauer one came in stock locally.
www.thingiverse.com
In Cura I was able to flip the hose attachment for the bucket lid, Lower the axis so only the flange gets printed, the hose flange will sit under the build plate. Use negative number to drop the hose connector under. That made me a reinforcing washer (bolt flange) to use inside the lid.
5 Gallon Cyclone Dust Collector by Looper
Printed parts for a two Bucket/Lid Thien Baffle Dust Collector
www.thingiverse.com
In Cura I was able to flip the hose attachment for the bucket lid, Lower the axis so only the flange gets printed, the hose flange will sit under the build plate. Use negative number to drop the hose connector under. That made me a reinforcing washer (bolt flange) to use inside the lid.
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jstroede
Well-known member
I got tired of not having lights in my shed that has no power (yes I know that's the real answer but not happening now). I found these 24v led lights for less than a buck each on Amazon, drew up some mounting brackets, and after a little wiring and printing an adapter for a spare 24V power tool battery, I don't have to worry about having a flashlight to go hunting for things. Eventually I think I will have 6 lights but two is a good start.
cmandp
Well-known member
Designed and printed these spacers to match the style of these luminaries.
Still need to paint to match.
Still need to paint to match.
there we go. @jblnut
spilled drink drain hole. 8/32 and 1/4-20 bottom holes.
1/4-20s in the back spaced for this ram ball mount OR you can flat bar mount it however you want:
spilled drink drain hole. 8/32 and 1/4-20 bottom holes.
1/4-20s in the back spaced for this ram ball mount OR you can flat bar mount it however you want:
In the process of setting up dust collection for my garage sawdust making addiction and need a cyclone separator basically this:
I'm ducting mine in 6" PVC so need the big one...but with how little is there I'm struggling to pay that price...but I don't have the time right now to try and make one the hard way...so was wondering if my plastic printing robots could....so found this on Grabcad and included the .step files so it was a bit easier to manipulate in CAD and scale up for approximately 6" inputs/outputs:
Free CAD Designs, Files & 3D Models | The GrabCAD Community Library
The GrabCAD Library offers millions of free CAD designs, CAD files, and 3D models. Join the GrabCAD Community today to gain access and download!grabcad.com
Changed my printer machine settings from 300 x 300 x 300 to 900 x 900 x 900 so that it would "fit" on the bed and slice....and over an hour ago I hit slice:
And it's still not done....lol
The settings are all made up, mostly I want to see print time in this format and material usage but pretty sure it's going to tell me that I should stop screwing around and buy it as the headache of breaking into pieces and then reassembly etc isn't worth it....but am now curious to see how long it takes for this to finish slicing and what the material and time estimates are!
Well tried 2x to slice this...both times it crashed the program while running overnight with a memory error....32 GB just doesn't seem to be enough for this large of a part....
Guess it means I probably shouldn't go look at this one about an hour away with a 600 mm x 600 mm bed:
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My wife would kill me....I don't have a good place for it or a need personally or a desire to try and print for hire super big stuff like costume pieces etc(though some droids and a stormtrooper outfit is on the some day list)....but fun to look
WoodsTruck
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2013
- Messages
- 1,019
I volunteered to sew up some heavy vinyl coated material for some water coolers and in the process needed a way to draw large circles for cutout. I was able to design an adjustable drawing compass using a standard ruler with a hole in the end and a common writing instrument. The pivot has a 90° cutout in the base so I can center it over the marked center and then align the writing tip with the specified radius. I used a heated nutsert for a 8-32 bolt in the holder so I could guillotine the writing tool with the ruler. I have a 36" ruler that fits well which would put me just under 6' diameter which is beyond anything I can picture needing.
Attachments
Nice!
lol no. i made a joke stl with a 50mm brim.
Cruzan80
Well-known member
But the real question is... Did it need a support?
honestly im impressed it printed and stayed erect. lil guy must have some blue pill in him.
tlevan03
Well-known member
I messed something up. I added the BL Touch to my ender 3 V2 and I downloaded the firmware update. Saved it to a clean formatted card per the instructions. Now I have a blank blue display screen. I unplugged the machine and let it sit and it’s the same. Please help!!!
tlevan03
Well-known member
Never mind. I re flashed it and I fix!
Poolshark314
Well-known member
JyersUI is the best firmware for an Ender 3 v2 IMO. The mesh features really make it nice