purplezr2
Well-known member
Do it take regular sized spools, I haven't looked that much into it.
The Everything 3D Printer Thread
- Thread starter BoilermakerFan
- Start date
yea its more so about the inner diameter of the spool. my white PETG amazon china stuff was falling off. im sure someone makes adapters but not important to me yet.
gona be trying these CHT nozzles out. I love the E3D stuff but dang expensive. this would reduce my cost by 2/3-3/4 per unit.
moab11
Well-known member
Sounds like the JeepxJ print farm is rapidly expanding, especially when power tools are being used for setup! haha
moab11
Well-known member
Experimented with some PLA Glow from Bambu Lab, print quality was ok, had some defects on the bottom side of the "weaves" but that may be a tuning issue. Otherwise this is pretty neat stuff.
Also got the IdeaFormer build plates from amazon and have been very happy with them. Running them at their recommended temp of 60c (default for Bambu lab is 55, but my printer seems to like an extra 5c on the plate temp) parts are sticking great and coming off easily afterwards.
Also got the IdeaFormer build plates from amazon and have been very happy with them. Running them at their recommended temp of 60c (default for Bambu lab is 55, but my printer seems to like an extra 5c on the plate temp) parts are sticking great and coming off easily afterwards.
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XJSuperman
Well-known member
Mine likes 60 as well.
With the go-fast settings and fuzzy skin I attempted a large rectangular lid for a printer toolbox. Outside came out ok, but the walls inside of the lid were horrible. Lots of peeling, delamination, and waves. I scraped it down with the scraper and called it ok, but it was pretty bad. I think on those longer flat walls I'll need to retune.
ptt49er
Well-known member
We had that issue w/ one of the X1Cs at work, we were able to take the heat bed apart and solder the connection back to the board. After working w/ the Bambu CS team to get a new one on the way. Now we have a backup.
You might be able to do the same, getting to it was the hardest part.
yea I pulled the heat bed once already to set connections. gona go back in and try again.
more heat! to keep up on the long straights needs to run hotter. or slow down the speed.
moab11
Well-known member
I'm guessing you are talking about increasing the temp of the hot end?
I'm finding that the default bambu settings are all on the cool side, bed temp can be 5-10c higher, the Aux fan on the X1C is always set too fast and I'm beginning to think the nozzle temp could be increased a bit too, all of this at standard speeds.
do a temp tower print. really helps dial things in. i'm burning about 1.2-1.5kg a day per printer with my current settings. the factory nozzle heater is running just at the edge. if i take the temp from 258 to 262 it errors that i cant maintain temp.
Poolshark314
Well-known member
The aux fan is useless. I have found it causes more print failures than it actually helps. leave it off and you'll be better off
GarageHobbyist
Well-known member
I've got the first half of my MIG consumables drawer printing so I can test fit before finishing it.
GarageHobbyist
Well-known member
The pieces fit, but it’s a hair too long for the drawer it is meant for 
cycle61
Well-known member
Bandsaw time!The pieces fit, but it’s a hair too long for the drawer it is meant for
cycle61
Well-known member
Several months ago I was struggling with print quality issues on my Prusa Mk3. Found a resource indicating the nozzle and cooling fins may not be touching inside the heat block because of poor DIY assembly (guilty). This results in filament oozing out between the block and fins, eventually clogging things, screwing with heat transfer, and generally making a mess. @slodat sent me home with a kit containing some upgraded pieces, and today I finally got around to installing the new setup.
Original grossness
The new hotness
And the first layer looking pretty good!
Original grossness
The new hotness
And the first layer looking pretty good!
GarageHobbyist
Well-known member
I don’t have much room to cut on the top and bottomBandsaw time!
.Width wise this is only half the drawer so I am good there. I’ll just make the bins for the contact tips a touch shorter from front to back and all will be good.
GarageHobbyist
Well-known member
reprinted and in. Now to do the other trays.
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Problem: I'm lazy. I dislike how long it takes me to cut these foam strips to 75mm.
solution 1: make a jig:
slide in. cut perfect length every time. place in bin.
placing in bin. ugh. too much work. lets over engineer a solution.
behold. the most over done foam strip cutter. with auto kick.
foot pedal operated. using the exhaust from the pedal to kick the foam strip to the bin. lets me use both hands to manage foam roll coming in.
double ram to keep the razor blade in line with the cutting surface.
solution 1: make a jig:
slide in. cut perfect length every time. place in bin.
placing in bin. ugh. too much work. lets over engineer a solution.
behold. the most over done foam strip cutter. with auto kick.
foot pedal operated. using the exhaust from the pedal to kick the foam strip to the bin. lets me use both hands to manage foam roll coming in.
double ram to keep the razor blade in line with the cutting surface.
GarageHobbyist
Well-known member
Got the TIG side done
kppolich
Well-known member
Top mounted the filament spool and printed a filament guide for my Vyper today.
Saved some footprint real estate and the filament seems to be pulling nice and smooth.
STL: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6585922
Saved some footprint real estate and the filament seems to be pulling nice and smooth.
STL: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6585922
Attachments
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mv213
Well-known member
I may have to steal this for mine. That’s the biggest issue with the Vyper. Well that and the small print size compared to the new super-size ones.
draco_1967
Well-known member
I can't believe I waited so long to get a PEI print surface! I've been printing for 4 years now on the same Ender 3 V2 glass bed. I was never able to get anything to stick to the textured side of the glass, but the smooth side worked fine with a little glue. But it was a pain always having to clean off the residue after each print.
Yesterday, I installed a PEI plate, leveled it (after resetting the Z limit switch), wiped it down with 99% IPA, and hit print. Perfect adhesion. When the print was done, and the plate cooled, it popped off before I even removed it from the printer! What have I been doing with my life?!
Yesterday, I installed a PEI plate, leveled it (after resetting the Z limit switch), wiped it down with 99% IPA, and hit print. Perfect adhesion. When the print was done, and the plate cooled, it popped off before I even removed it from the printer! What have I been doing with my life?!
kppolich
Well-known member
Here's the STL for the Vyper filament guide I remixed.
www.thingiverse.com
Extended Vyper Filament Guide by kppolich
Didn't need the front plate for my Vyper as I already have a light bar installed. I did want some extra extension. Works great, just remove the end cap and first Z axis bolt, then slide this piece on. Replace bolts and you are good to go.
www.thingiverse.com
sh944
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I’m thinking it might be “intervention time” here…. Lol
kaymccampbell
Well-known member
If it's paying for itself, then who cares?
slowtwitch73
Well-known member
All for the farm sip huh?
nicholam77
Well-known member
Genuinely curious about this. @jeepxj is that the main thing you're selling? Must be crazy successful to go in $7k on filament. That's pretty amazing.
slowtwitch73
Well-known member
^^ if it is, I'm wondering why the printing wouldn't be more a prototype tool, and then get finalized product versions injection molded or whatever...
There was guy here before 3d printers were a thing, who invented the french press to go mug.. he ended up having Aladdin make them them for him, and then he sold out for a pretty good sum.
There was guy here before 3d printers were a thing, who invented the french press to go mug.. he ended up having Aladdin make them them for him, and then he sold out for a pretty good sum.
yea thats whats paying its bills. the main issue at hand is print weight. the larger stuff is pushing 700g a print job. i'd guess 60-70% of what i'm selling is in the 500-600g range.
1kg spools are an absolute joke. latest order is all 5kg spools. I'm going to experiment with some 10kg spools.
priced it out already. i'm not selling tens of thousands to hundreds of thousands of units. it doesnt pencil out.
printers ROI in under a couple weeks. they are hands off. I can make design changes as much as I want with no mold cost.
its been wild. cousin coming on board to run production.
larry4406
Well-known member
Looks like a swivel mount.