The Everything 3D Printer Thread
- Thread starter BoilermakerFan
- Start date
niget2002
Well-known member
That's a feature of klipper. I haven't played with it yet. It does require the slicer to 'name' each of the parts. I haven't looked to see if simplify3d has that ability.
moab11
Well-known member
The skip feature has come in very handy for me, love that I can do it right on the screen of my X1C.
Really need to play with the Z Axis stacking, I'm sure I'll be printing random things and toys for friends kids this summer.
Really need to play with the Z Axis stacking, I'm sure I'll be printing random things and toys for friends kids this summer.
XJSuperman
Well-known member
I too, love the skip feature. I can put together a plate of prints, and run it as I'm home, but I can also get on the phone at work, select which pieces I want, and start the print so its ready when I arrive home to clear the plate and start again.
niget2002
Well-known member
Ugh. I'd have to switch slicers to test out the skip object feature. Simplify3d doesn't have the 'label objects' function.
Would you care to share the stl or model for this?initial Socket holder for HF metric impact sockets printed in PLA with quicker speeds:
XJSuperman
Well-known member
I actually just shared it on Makerworld yesterday. Theres nothing "wrong" with it, but I spent my entire afternoon and late into the night trying to tweak V2, which basically ended up being from scratch. It'll be up as soon as I can finish cutting/painting it in the slicer. I'll probably add it to thingiverse after that as well.
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XJSuperman
Well-known member
Hell yeah
moab11
Well-known member
Dangit, if Bambulab come out with an XL printer, I'm going to have to figure out where to put it. I've been thinking for a while that it would be nice to have a larger print bed.
not me regretting buying 24" pallet racking.
moab11
Well-known member
Something for the future home of FSS Enterprises?
100%.
this is what i need to do currently with one of the models:
which in turn:
i would love to print these in a single piece.
8.9 a kg for a 10pack here:
kingroon.com
PETG Filament, 3D printer PETG filament
PETG filament is the second large used filament in 3D printing community. It is a material that offers unmatched versatility and exceptional performance.
kingroon.com
Poolshark314
Well-known member
I saw that one. They don't seem to list what's included with the "Mixed Color PETG" pack8.9 a kg for a 10pack here:
PETG Filament, 3D printer PETG filament
PETG filament is the second large used filament in 3D printing community. It is a material that offers unmatched versatility and exceptional performance.
What would be my best option for a wear resistant filament? I designed and printed a Chain guide out of PETG and I'm really not sure how long it's going to last. I figured I might want to look into a CF-nylon for something like this? I have an X1C so I should be able to Print Most consumer materials.
FibreX™ Nylon+GF30 3D Filament | Glass Fiber Reinforced
FibreX™ Nylon+GF30 glass fiber reinforced nylon is a superior engineering material for structural applications.
www.3dxtech.com
or
i trust esun stuff. for the cost difference i'd do that personally.
XJSuperman
Well-known member
Welp, I've attempted to print PETG on the p1s. It has not gone smoothly....
There's stringing, theres spaghetti, theres uneven walls and botched layers. TempTower didn't tell me much, I need to change the temps on the layers for petg (up them). Anything 230 and lower was useless anyhow of course.
I have tried some helpful settings from one of our resident experts and they failed.
I tried default and it failed.
I tried several combos, hoping to find a middle ground, and they failed.
I tried "Donnie's" settings from a site and youtube and it failed.
I can get more details to provide, but I'd like to hear more on everyone's P1s/x1 PETG experiences and how they got it to print. Let's say you started at Default Bambu PETG settings, what did you need to tweak for the filament, and the print process? My temps have been from default to 265, speeds slowed way down and sped up, I must be mixing/missing something in the combination that just isn't right.
There's stringing, theres spaghetti, theres uneven walls and botched layers. TempTower didn't tell me much, I need to change the temps on the layers for petg (up them). Anything 230 and lower was useless anyhow of course.
I have tried some helpful settings from one of our resident experts and they failed.
I tried default and it failed.
I tried several combos, hoping to find a middle ground, and they failed.
I tried "Donnie's" settings from a site and youtube and it failed.
I can get more details to provide, but I'd like to hear more on everyone's P1s/x1 PETG experiences and how they got it to print. Let's say you started at Default Bambu PETG settings, what did you need to tweak for the filament, and the print process? My temps have been from default to 265, speeds slowed way down and sped up, I must be mixing/missing something in the combination that just isn't right.
Poolshark314
Well-known member
No changes for me on the X1. PETG definitely likes going slower than PLA, but I notice that in the finished product and not in print failures. I have never used any Bambu branded filament. Just whatever I find on Amazon
AirMech#406
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 29, 2021
- Messages
- 142
Filament dried? I never have issues with my X1 as long as I dry PETG for 6-12hrs in my Ebois filament drier before I print. I mostly print Polymaker and Kaaber PETG
XJSuperman
Well-known member
No I have not dried the filament. I don't own a drier and frankly I find it BS that we should need to dry new filament right out of the package. I've been reading about it, but have been resisting it. I'd like to be sure of my settings before resorting to blaming it on moisture. Its been in the AMS for a few days now with the other filaments and my indicators read that it should be dry. I do realize the PETG is much more susceptible to moisture.
I've used matchbox, overture, and atomic PETG all with good results on stock X1 settings right out of the package. About the only issue I have is the first layer adhesion on the stock plate.
All that being said, I would try drying the filament before chasing your tail with settings.
sh944
ALLIANCE MEMBER
If you have an AMS from Bambu, it has a dryer function you can try.
For what its worth, I never use it or worry about it and I live in Kansas, where one *should* be worried about drying filament. Its never been a problem for me and I occasionally have filament sitting around far too long.
For what its worth, I never use it or worry about it and I live in Kansas, where one *should* be worried about drying filament. Its never been a problem for me and I occasionally have filament sitting around far too long.
XJSuperman
Well-known member
Time to invest in a forklift...
Don't order while drinking!oh god what did i do
niget2002
Well-known member
I finally have ASA printing on my CoreXY machine. This material is nice. I'm getting some really good prints with it.
After playing with Klipper on the older printer, I'm thinking I want to convert the CoreXY to Klipper. It already has a Raspberry Pi running octoprint. I think it should work. I have some other projects I need to finish printing first. Then I'll give it a shot.
After playing with Klipper on the older printer, I'm thinking I want to convert the CoreXY to Klipper. It already has a Raspberry Pi running octoprint. I think it should work. I have some other projects I need to finish printing first. Then I'll give it a shot.
niget2002
Well-known member
Just print it bigger.instruction unclear. scale wrong.
shoot summ
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jun 8, 2010
- Messages
- 2,951
The AMS is a dry box, helps keep the moisture down, but isn't a dryer. I haven't tried it but it looks like the drying function is in the chamber on the hot bed.
XJSuperman
Well-known member
This was my findings as well. But I watch the moisture and temps in the AMS and it should be plenty dry. When running a print, its 10-11%, but I got home from work yesterday and it was 14% cold.
moab11
Well-known member
Safe to assume you went ahead with a new home for FSS?
Give us some details if you can, what size is the new space? How many printers are you planning to run?
If you order it he will find space ~ some movie line.
tentative agreement with relative to rent out their building. 2,000sq ft. 40x50 tall wall. going to wall in a 10x40' long print room.
Fleet will start at 15 there. thats 21 kg a day burn. Puts this order at just about a 90 day supply. with 45 day lead times this will allow some level of forecasting.
existing building on top. knock down outlined. room for more printers than i'd know what to do with.
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sh944
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Thanks for the correction. I know its there as an "option" on the Bambu but I haven't used it yet (hence my comment about not paying attention to humidity in Kansas... lol).
Finally got some real management in place.
live linking which is kinda neat:
oe.ink
live linking which is kinda neat:
LIVE - Watch Me Make Things
Beautiful webcam streaming, real-time AI failure detection stats, print progression, streaming stats, and much more.
oe.ink
If you order it he will find space ~ some movie line.
tentative agreement with relative to rent out their building. 2,000sq ft. 40x50 tall wall. going to wall in a 10x40' long print room.
Fleet will start at 15 there. thats 21 kg a day burn. Puts this order at just about a 90 day supply. with 45 day lead times this will allow some level of forecasting.
existing building on top. knock down outlined. room for more printers than i'd know what to do with.
I've been thinking about a related question of late. How do you decide when to shift from 3D printers to molding parts? For example, I understand Prusa likes the idea of using reprap parts in their printers. However at some point, molding does become cheaper if volumes are high enough. Would Prusa be able to lower their prices if they redesigned the Mk4 to use more molded vs printed parts?
Are any of your volumes high enough to consider molded parts? Is that something you have considered?
I'm kind of curious how the math works out for various people and where the cross over point is. 3D printing is cool because something like an X1C is dirt cheap by the standards of almost any other type of production tooling (molds, machining etc). It's also inherently very flexible with almost no overhead when switching between different parts. But the material cost is much higher than commodity grade resins, the cycle times are likewise MUCH higher than molded parts (perhaps 30 seconds vs hours).
Do you think customers notice or care that the parts are 3D printed instead of molded? - of course don't answer if you think that's something between your operation and your customers. I'm just curious if people who many not be familiar with 3D printing vs the common molded plastic stuff would note the difference.
As the printers become cheaper and faster I do think we will see more low volume parts move from molding to printing. I love that the prices are cheap enough that printing production parts is even an option at reasonable prices.
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ive priced it out for my stable models that im not messing with still. mold costs alone would take me approx 300 units to recover. Then on low volume runs my per unit price is still higher than my cost to print assuming printers are paid off. I can pay off a printer in about a week and change. Its a weird middle ground here.
On the units i'm still tweaking? no way.
7 versions
etc etc
the ability to rapidly take feedback, enhance and reduce my assembly time on units is worth the pain of printing. I also dont have a vendor to deal with for molds,injection, etc.
I can scale in that building to about 130 printers. roughly 350lbs of filament burn a day. Assuming the metrics hold to scale that way we're talking 5 figure $ a day in production.
look at what slant3d is doing. https://www.slant3d.com/
for the majority. i'd guess 90% of my customers its their first 3d printed object they've ever held. I've had maybe 10 folks take me up on this path:
"oh its 3d printed? I dont want that kinda stuff." my response is simple: I will refund you 100% your cost including shipping if you dont think its worth the money you paid for it. I havent had to refund anything yet. if that day comes I will gladly do it.
One of the things I think I do that is bridging the barrier is fuzzy skin. with .1/.1 to .08/.02 you get this texture on it that just hides the layer lines really well and provides good tactile to everyday use.
I had one guy who thought it was so sturdy he wanted to video himself running it over with a UTV before mounting it. The body held up, the thin phone holder area did not.