The Everything 3D Printer Thread

[manwithtools]

Do you have an AMS with the x1? You can add on a chamber heater to it, but you won't get the full integration of the AMS 2. The HT is a single roll unit

I have an AMS with the X1C currently and looking to get the AMS2 and also the HT for the more temperamental filaments. I'm pretty familiar with the product offerings. Just looking for folks with firsthand experience (good or bad).

 

[ER70S-2]

Anyone here have the Bambu Lab H2D with AMS? I'm looking to upgrade from my X1C and thinking of the H2D with AMS HT Bundle. Thoughts or comments?

​

I just bought an H2D with an AMS 2 Pro a few months ago and it's a beast. I actually regret not getting the H2C even though I don't ever print more than 2 color functional prints. Having multiple nozzle sizes and nozzles dedicated to specific filaments in the machine and ready to go is the main reason I wish I got the H2C.

Also- The AMS 2 Pro is a terrible dryer. It doesn't ever get to the set temp no matter how long you let it run. It's horrible. I'm not sure if the HT is any better in that regard (as in doing what it's advertised to do). You may want to invest in a different dryer. I got a Sovol SH03 and it's also a beast. Very happy with it. I got the SH03 over the HT since it can dry 4 spools at a time.

 

[manwithtools]

I just bought an H2D with an AMS 2 Pro a few months ago and it's a beast. I actually regret not getting the H2C even though I don't ever print more than 2 color functional prints. Having multiple nozzle sizes and nozzles dedicated to specific filaments in the machine and ready to go is the main reason I wish I got the H2C.

Also- The AMS 2 Pro is a terrible dryer. It doesn't ever get to the set temp no matter how long you let it run. It's horrible. I'm not sure if the HT is any better in that regard (as in doing what it's advertised to do). You may want to invest in a different dryer. I got a Sovol SH03 and it's also a beast. Very happy with it. I got the SH03 over the HT since it can dry 4 spools at a time.

Thank you for this feedback, exactly what I wanted.

 

[kaymccampbell]

Installed the printer cam on the Adventurer.

 

[jayz66ragtop]

Anyone here have the Bambu Lab H2D with AMS? I'm looking to upgrade from my X1C and thinking of the H2D with AMS HT Bundle. Thoughts or comments?

​

I know you specifically the H2D, I have an H2C. got the bundle with two AMS 2 Pros and an AMS HT. I had an X1C prior and had great luck with it as well.

I have about 250 hours on the H2C and zero regrets going with it. Most of my prints are single or two color but I have a couple of things that are four or more colors that I printed with the X1C and the time difference is huge. My opinion on the H2 series:

H2S - if you print mostly single color and an occasional two or three color OR you want/need a larger print volume than an X1 this is your best choice
H2D - if you print more than ~30% two color prints, this is probably your best bet. The benefit of simply switching nozzles for a color change is a huge time and filament savings.
H2C - if you like to have the most expensive device in the line OR you print items that have more than two colors more than ~30% of the time this is your machine.

I chose the H2C because at the time it was I think $300-$400 more for the H2C over the H2D and I KNEW I would regret not getting the H2C. All things being the same I'd do it again.

 

[Cruzan80]

H2D - if you print more than ~30% two color prints, this is probably your best bet. The benefit of simply switching nozzles for a color change is a huge time and filament savings.

The other thing to consider is if you are printing lots of things needing a different support material. This (and the H2C) allow you to use a different material for easier support removal without swapping.

 

[ER70S-2]

The other thing to consider is if you are printing lots of things needing a different support material. This (and the H2C) allow you to use a different material for easier support removal without swapping.

That's one of the main reasons I got mine. You can also make parts with TPU features integrated into other materials which is amazing (solid parts with flexible features, vibration isolation grommets, etc.).

 

[jayz66ragtop]

My post above is followed by an "incident".

Had my first "issue" with the H2C and I believe it was self inflicted just like everything with my X1C...

I had a multi-color three hour print going for about an hour and got a pop-up "Extruder change failed 07FF-8020 180821".

• Looked, looked some more and didn't see a thing wrong.
• Hit resume multiple times and same thing.
• Turned off and back on the printer a few times, same thing.
• I noticed the little dribble guard thing was bent a tiny little bit so I turned off the printer, tweaked it back the best I could and power cycled the printer. Same thing.
• I had noticed earlier that one of the AMS 2 Pros and the AMS HT had red lights flashing along with the progress bar on the printer, didn't put much thought into the fact that the other AMS 2 Pro was not flashing mainly because it's "last" in the chain of AMS'
• For this two color print I did put a different spool in the AMS HT and an open slot in the AMS 2 Pro that had the red lights but when putting the filament in everything seemed to be acknowledged and happy. Printer recognized both new filaments and fed them in and out a little in doing so.

Apparently when I slid the AMS 2 Pro back in the cable must have pulled ever so slightly out on one of the pins or something. I slid it back out, pulled out the six pin connector, plugged it back in, and all lights are white now. For a test I sent a small print using the filament in the AMS HT on the left nozzle just to be sure and it just finished printing as I started to type this out. Going to declare victory unless the original two color print now fails which I just sent to the printer so we'll see.

So, why it complained about the Extruder not being able to change when it was clearly a communication issue with the AMS I don't know but glad I was able to figure it out without tearing apart my printer. The other search results were indicating it could be the dual feed extruder and some other pretty invasive things to check.


Assuming this is fixed, my record still stands as all issues with Bambu printers have been self inflicted.


On edit: Original print completed the second time with zero issues after fixing the cable issue. Still not really sure how/why pulling the cable only slightly caused this issue. Visibly I couldn't even tell the cable was pulled out and the little tab was engaged, I had to press it down to get the cable to disengage from the AMS. Just something new to be aware of with the AMS 2 Pros I guess. I do remember thinking that the cable/plug on the original AMS that came with my X1C seemed to engage a little more precisely than with the AMS 2 Pros when I first setup the H2C.

 

[jayz66ragtop]

That's one of the main reasons I got mine. You can also make parts with TPU features integrated into other materials which is amazing (solid parts with flexible features, vibration isolation grommets, etc.).

I agree with this and the comment prior about support material.

For me, not so sure how this will play out in reality at least with TPU and other materials. I told myself I would do this and it'll be the best thing evah! but the reality is probably not much will I print this way but at least I have the ability to.

 

[manwithtools]

I know you specifically the H2D, I have an H2C. got the bundle with two AMS 2 Pros and an AMS HT. I had an X1C prior and had great luck with it as well.

I have about 250 hours on the H2C and zero regrets going with it. Most of my prints are single or two color but I have a couple of things that are four or more colors that I printed with the X1C and the time difference is huge. My opinion on the H2 series:

H2S - if you print mostly single color and an occasional two or three color OR you want/need a larger print volume than an X1 this is your best choice
H2D - if you print more than ~30% two color prints, this is probably your best bet. The benefit of simply switching nozzles for a color change is a huge time and filament savings.
H2C - if you like to have the most expensive device in the line OR you print items that have more than two colors more than ~30% of the time this is your machine.

I chose the H2C because at the time it was I think $300-$400 more for the H2C over the H2D and I KNEW I would regret not getting the H2C. All things being the same I'd do it again.

Thank you for this nice summary.

 

[ER70S-2]

I agree with this and the comment prior about support material.

For me, not so sure how this will play out in reality at least with TPU and other materials. I told myself I would do this and it'll be the best thing evah! but the reality is probably not much will I print this way but at least I have the ability to.

I hear ya. I probably won't print much like this, but I did do a few test prints and the parts came out mint. I think the biggest obstacle against printing parts like this is actually remembering that it's possible when designing parts in my head. It definitely opens new doors.

 

[PelicanPines]

Its 3d printing SNOW outside...

 

[RichieP_MechE]

This is a project that got way out of hand. Came across https://weatherstar.netbymatt.com/ a few months ago, thought it would be cool to have that streaming to an old tube TV. A few weeks ago, I then fell down a raspberry pi rabbit hole and ended spending too much money and time making this:



Printed in PLA on my P1S


Mini wireless keyboard fits in the slot on top. Yes, I could ssh into this, but I'm a hardware guy, not a software guy.


Used a POE hat to power the setup


Printed a definitely code compliant recessed faceplate from Schoolhouse Spools PETG


Network cable runs down to the basement to a POE injector

And finally, fancy pic for social media

 

[mike93lx]

This is a project that got way out of hand. Came across https://weatherstar.netbymatt.com/ a few months ago, thought it would be cool to have that streaming to an old tube TV. A few weeks ago, I then fell down a raspberry pi rabbit hole and ended spending too much money and time making this:



Printed in PLA on my P1S


Mini wireless keyboard fits in the slot on top. Yes, I could ssh into this, but I'm a hardware guy, not a software guy.


Used a POE hat to power the setup


Printed a definitely code compliant recessed faceplate from Schoolhouse Spools PETG


Network cable runs down to the basement to a POE injector

And finally, fancy pic for social media

That's sweet

 

[jayz66ragtop]

This is a project that got way out of hand. Came across https://weatherstar.netbymatt.com/ a few months ago, thought it would be cool to have that streaming to an old tube TV. A few weeks ago, I then fell down a raspberry pi rabbit hole and ended spending too much money and time making this:



Printed in PLA on my P1S


Mini wireless keyboard fits in the slot on top. Yes, I could ssh into this, but I'm a hardware guy, not a software guy.


Used a POE hat to power the setup


Printed a definitely code compliant recessed faceplate from Schoolhouse Spools PETG


Network cable runs down to the basement to a POE injector

And finally, fancy pic for social media

Dammit! Now you are going to make me revisit my stalled MagicMirror project!

Main reason it stalled five or six years ago is I didn't want to run an electrical outlet to where I wanted to hang it, didn't even think of PoE and now I have a switch with PoE ports. ****, now that I think about it I could do two or three of them...

Thanks for spending my money for me RichieP!

 

[RichieP_MechE]

Dammit! Now you are going to make me revisit my stalled MagicMirror project!

Main reason it stalled five or six years ago is I didn't want to run an electrical outlet to where I wanted to hang it, didn't even think of PoE and now I have a switch with PoE ports. ****, now that I think about it I could do two or three of them...

Thanks for spending my money for me RichieP!

lol glad to be of service. I was also wanting to avoid installing an electrical outlet 5 feet up in the middle of a wall. Originally I was trying to think of a code compliant way to run 5V from a usb adapter up to the mounting point, looking at low voltage thermostat wire and usb ports with terminal blocks. Then it hit me - just use a network cable and POE. Power and comms in one!

 

[jeepxj]

the new POE can run a serious amount of wattage too.

 

[mike93lx]

the new POE can run a serious amount of wattage too.

Holy ****. 100w? That's nuts

 

[jeepxj]

Holy ****. 100w? That's nuts

for reasons i dont understand there is a lot of POE lighting now.

https://www.axislighting.com/poe-lighting

 

[mike93lx]

for reasons i dont understand there is a lot of POE lighting now.

https://www.axislighting.com/poe-lighting

One contractor to do both networking and lighting. One less person to fight over wire routing

 

[dscheidt]

One contractor to do both networking and lighting. One less person to fight over wire routing

And because it's low voltage, in many places it can be done by someone without a license.

 

[jeepxj]

Aurorin CAD

Modern CAD for mechanical engineers. Fast, stable, with AI acceleration.

www.aurorincad.com

interesting

 

[duneslider]

Aurorin CAD

Modern CAD for mechanical engineers. Fast, stable, with AI acceleration.

www.aurorincad.com

interesting

Have you tried it? I draw pictures everyday in cad and I am not sure how I feel about typing paragraphs about what I want to draw as opposed to just drawing what I want to draw. I can see it being nice for someone that doesn't have cad experience but if you are proficient is this going to be annoying, or nice?

 

[jeepxj]

Have you tried it? I draw pictures everyday in cad and I am not sure how I feel about typing paragraphs about what I want to draw as opposed to just drawing what I want to draw. I can see it being nice for someone that doesn't have cad experience but if you are proficient is this going to be annoying, or nice?

no i havent yet.

im not sure. i can see a possibility with it.

 

[moto_ridah]

First TPU prints seemed to go well enough, knock on wood. Made up some feet for my Engel cooler. Textured build plate for extra stiction along with the reliefs.

 

[gte718p]

for reasons i dont understand there is a lot of POE lighting now.

https://www.axislighting.com/poe-lighting

Because it is awesome.

Instead of requiring an electrician and a network technician taking and taking several days to install, wire, and program "smart" lighting, a single guy can do it in an afternoon.

I haven't tried it yet, but a friend just did his new office/warehouse and absolutely loved it. Lights, speakers, cameras, and access control all wired and configured in one day with a three-man crew.

 

[mike93lx]

 

[mike93lx]

My wife named the new one Printcess Leia. I think she's OK with them

 

[ed_]

I had to helicoil several ruined exhaust header stud holes on my engine's head so I made a depth limiter for my drill hand held drillpress to ensure each of the holes were uniform in depth.


All done.


Not a fancy design by any means but it's always nice having the option to 3d print temporary contraptions.

 

[mike93lx]

I had to helicoil several ruined exhaust header stud holes on my engine's head so I made a depth limiter for my drill hand held drillpress to ensure each of the holes were uniform in depth.


All done.


Not a fancy design by any means but it's always nice having the option to 3d print temporary contraptions.

What material are you using for stuff like this? What program for modeling?

 

[mike93lx]

That's what had me looking at them, being able to have different temps going on in different chambers seems nice. I usually have petg in a couple and leave a couple whatever random pla silk the kids are liking in the others. I don't care much about the kids randomness going on but like to keep the petg in good condition for the stuff I am doing.

It arrived today and is extremely well packaged. Lots of padding, good carton, plastic corners on the carton and inside a double wall outer box. I'm impressed so far.

I need to wait til the printer is idle as I have to flip over the AMS to install it. I'll share pics and feedback when that happens

 

[ed_]

What material are you using for stuff like this? What program for modeling?

PETG. For temporary parts I'll pretty much use whatever is currently loaded in the printer as long as it's a cheap filament (ie PETG, or PLA)

And I use FreeCAD.

 

[mike93lx]

PETG. For temporary parts I'll pretty much use whatever is currently loaded in the printer as long as it's a cheap filament (ie PETG, or PLA)

And I use FreeCAD.

thanks!

 

[duneslider]

From 1 to 3...
That escalated quickly...

What's up with the paver under the printer?

 

[mike93lx]

From 1 to 3...
That escalated quickly...

What's up with the paver under the printer?

An attempt at noise control. People use them for vibration reduction, which isn't my issue here and it doesn't help on that cabinet.

My bedroom is right below and it's louder than I would like. I think some of it is coming from the cabinets and that they are screwed into the framing.

The stand on the left is bad too. Seems like that cabinet is amplifying sound.

I'm going to try a freestanding metal shelving unit and I suspect that's where a paver may help.

 

[ER70S-2]

An attempt at noise control. People use them for vibration reduction, which isn't my issue here and it doesn't help on that cabinet.

My bedroom is right below and it's louder than I would like. I think some of it is coming from the cabinets and that they are screwed into the framing.

The stand on the left is bad too. Seems like that cabinet is amplifying sound.

I'm going to try a freestanding metal shelving unit and I suspect that's where a paver may help.

I used a paver under my Prusa for years. I machined solid aluminum feet to replace the rubber feet that came with the printer. The aluminum feet coupled the printer to the paver, essentially increasing the mass of the printer and directing vibrations into it. The paver sat on a piece of 3/4" thick foam slightly smaller than the paver. The noise reduction with that setup was huge.

 

[mike93lx]

I used a paver under my Prusa for years. I machined solid aluminum feet to replace the rubber feet that came with the printer. The aluminum feet coupled the printer to the paver, essentially increasing the mass of the printer and directing vibrations into it. The paver sat on a piece of 3/4" thick foam slightly smaller than the paver. The noise reduction with that setup was huge.

I may need to get some foam for under the paver. I tried some really large felt pads and I think they don't have enough give to work well

Ultimately the printers may just need to go in the garage. We don't have guests a lot, but this setup eats a lot of space in the guest room and if the printers are running, the room can't be used for watching TV.

If I finish the interior of my pool shed and condition it, I would have space for a bunch more printers...

 

[ER70S-2]

I may need to get some foam for under the paver. I tried some really large felt pads and I think they don't have enough give to work well

Ultimately the printers may just need to go in the garage. We don't have guests a lot, but this setup eats a lot of space in the guest room and if the printers are running, the room can't be used for watching TV.

If I finish the interior of my pool shed and condition it, I would have space for a bunch more printers...

I tried felt, sorbothane ($$$), bubble wrap, and foam from JoAnn fabrics. The foam blew all the others away.

 

[duneslider]

I would have space for a bunch more printers...

 

[duneslider]

I used a paver under my Prusa for years. I machined solid aluminum feet to replace the rubber feet that came with the printer. The aluminum feet coupled the printer to the paver, essentially increasing the mass of the printer and directing vibrations into it. The paver sat on a piece of 3/4" thick foam slightly smaller than the paver. The noise reduction with that setup was huge.

I was going to suggest foam or one of those antifatigue mats under the paver.

I have mine in the garage and its been pretty nice to have out there. It isn't conditioned and even this winter when the garage got down to 45-48 I didn't have any issues printing pla and petg. No noise and no mess in the house. Eventually, when I get my office/hobby room done I will probably move the printer into that space.