Ok, i went back and read the article, but i didn’t see a reference to the hog ring kit. And what size heat shrink did you buy?I replaced the second Pic with a less potatoey one
One ring would likely be enough, but I don't want it to fail. They're 3/8 rings from a cheap kit that I picked up after one of @Ryan 's posts on making DIY bungees.
This was done with an old kit, probably bought from harbor freight 10 years ago. I'd have to go measure, but maybe 3/8? No adhesive and it's probably 2:1. Anything will do for this use case as it's just there to cover the rings
Looks like it's around $900 with the Bambu AMS. I don't know how much multi-material printing I'll do but it seems like that could be nice to have. The heated chamber on the X2D actually looks like the standout feature for my uses over the P2S.
Even a P1S can do engineering filaments. I've done prints with 100 degree bed temps and 270 degree nozzle temps in mine.
You might check out the Creality K1 plus as well. They have things like the heated chamber you need for engineering materials. It also has a good build size (350x350mm). With filament changer it's $900 on sale (check the various deal sites). A drawback vs the X2D is it uses a conventional filament change. However, I think the print speeds are faster than the X2D. Not night and day different but faster. However the speed advantage might be with pla where printers can go all out. With other materials your speed may be limited by the material itself.
Can’t speak to those specifically, but I own many similar. They are not terribly accurate and only read as low as 20%.Are these any good? Reason i ask, when i pull my spools out of the sunlu drier the control panel shows humidity aroud 15%. I put the spool into a ziplock back with a sensor,band when i check bsck 2 hrs later the thingie shows close to 30%. I wait about 2 hours to give the device time to stabilize.
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Did not know that. So when i see videos of people printing accessories for ceral containers and they include a slot for a humidity gauge … that's not useful?
We use that style of sensor a lot, maybe a few hundred of them, they are very accurate and reasonably reliable. We have run tests against lab grade instruments and they met their accuracy, repeatability, and linearity specs. The batteries they come with don't last long, so order replacement batteries as well. They are a lot less expensive on Temu, and the sensors seem to all be about the same among brands. The sensor is electronic, that's how they get the accuracy, repeatability, and low cost.Are these any good? Reason i ask, when i pull my spools out of the sunlu drier the control panel shows humidity aroud 15%. I put the spool into a ziplock back with a sensor,band when i check bsck 2 hrs later the thingie shows close to 30%. I wait about 2 hours to give the device time to stabilize.
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Price is rarely completely indicative of quality anymore. Those sensors are very accurate, it's an electronic device that sells in quantity for pennies. You can pay higher prices but you aren't likely to get better accuracy or reliability unless you are paying hundreds for a lab grade instrument.
Monitoring humidity and temperature in manufacturing environments as well as shipping environmental monitoring. We also use them in environmental chambers for testing, when the testing will ultimately exceed the ratings and destroy the sensor.
Are these any good? Reason i ask, when i pull my spools out of the sunlu drier the control panel shows humidity aroud 15%. I put the spool into a ziplock back with a sensor,band when i check bsck 2 hrs later the thingie shows close to 30%. I wait about 2 hours to give the device time to stabilize.
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That is true for lab grade instruments as well, humidity will vary in the few inches of space between them. Not 10% but potentially a percent or two.
2 hrs cuz i had other things to do. My point was, i knew it wasn't like an instant thermometer.
It's not vapor tight, however they seal pretty well. For extremely moisture sensitive filament (like pet-cf) I keep the bag they came in. For the rest, ziplocs are sufficient, IMO
If you have no skin in the game, why come into a thread and create drama ?
I considered cereal boxes early on (even posted here about it) and decided that the bulk and handling wasn't worth it for me. I have driers on both of my ams's as well as a standalone, plus I don't tend to keep a ton of filament around. My tool chest, which is my printer stand, has a couple drawers that perfectly fit filament spools, so I've just been doing the ziplocs for now. The Pic below is one drawer, but it was right before starting a wheelchair so it's packed.
It got punchy (nice word) but i didn‘t think it was aimed at me. If it was … i missed it. I just bought my A1 about 4-5 weeks ago, almost everything i know i learned here and i appreciate all the input and cheap advice.
My wife bought me this book on Fusion, it helped tremendously with my learning it to be good enough to do stuff for myself. I even subscribed to the full version for a year . There was a 50% off discount on 1 year so "only" something like $30/month for that year, but when the year was up I went back to the free version for home use since I wasn't going to make any money using it. I did give up a few features that I used frequently though - Auto dimensioning is one I miss for sure. I use Fusion to design more than just 3D printer parts.
Bed mesh need updated, printed before bed was stabilized or possibly to much cooling fan on the second layerWhat happened here? This was the first layer, petg. The layer wasn’t curled or warped but i could see what looked like a crack, and it pulled back easily.
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