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The Everything 3D Printer Thread

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jayz66ragtop

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I've read mixed reviews about the actual run-times when going dual nozzle with a dedicated support filament vs a single nozzle setup and many report that they see no real world difference.

Something about the other nozzle not being able to run as fast, it's limitation when it comes to filaments, and whatever else I may be forgetting or haven't thought about.

I run a P1S and while there is zero reason to upgrade at all, I thought I'd look into getting a P2S or X2C.

I guess it depends on how much support material the print needs vs the non-support filament. If the print uses a considerable amount of support then the time can be greatly reduced. The bigger win is the amount of wasted filament due to purging. I have a tri-color print that took 19 hours on my X1C and wasted close to 1/4 of a spool of filament between the three colors due to purging. With some strategic spool placement, that same print on my H2C takes ~15 hours BUT the filament wasted fit in my hand with plenty of space left.
 

KwikFab

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I guess it depends on how much support material the print needs vs the non-support filament. If the print uses a considerable amount of support then the time can be greatly reduced. The bigger win is the amount of wasted filament due to purging. I have a tri-color print that took 19 hours on my X1C and wasted close to 1/4 of a spool of filament between the three colors due to purging. With some strategic spool placement, that same print on my H2C takes ~15 hours BUT the filament wasted fit in my hand with plenty of space left.

True, regarding the support material vs non-support.

Only the H2C uses what I'd say, two normal nozzles that both can run at the same speed vs the X2C that uses their regular nozzle for the main, and a slower one for the secondary.

I guess I could wait it out to see when people start posting about their X2C.
 

Old tool guy

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How long can you pause a print? Bambu a1 and petg. Long print job, at some point it thought there was a problem feeding the filament so it paused. Probably 2 hrs later I saw it, gave it a swift kick in the **** and it continued as if nothing had happened. Looking at the finished product I can’t see where it paused, looks perfect.
 

draco_1967

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Isn't the most efficient way to use the second material just for the support interface, not the whole support structure? That way it isn't switching material every layer, just the interface layers. Unless there is a specific need for the dissolvable filaments for internal structures...
I haven't played with that at all, just going off of the little I've read about it.
 

Old tool guy

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Isn't the most efficient way to use the second material just for the support interface, not the whole support structure? That way it isn't switching material every layer, just the interface layers. Unless there is a specific need for the dissolvable filaments for internal structures...
I haven't played with that at all, just going off of the little I've read about it.
Correct, that’s how i do it, works well. Sometimes. Sometimes i use the same filament. The real time **** is purging every time it chamges filament.
 

signcrafter

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p2s with AMS

IMO best bang for buck for general purpose
From a guy that has never printed anything and figuring out which printer would be best. The X2D with ams is only 150 dollars more then the p2s with ams I believe. I have no clue if the second head for supports is needed for what I want to print but my thought was I don't want to spend 750 for the p2s and then find out down the road the x2d would have been better. That extra 150 seems like a good idea to spend now and have the capability in case I need it. Is there any downside to getting the x2d over the p2s if you don't ever use the second head besides the price? I just hate when I spend money on something and later wish I had spent a few more bucks to have more features.
 

Old tool guy

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Need a little help please. Just got a P1S, trying to use it for the first time. Did a test print, it’s ok. But trying to do a chair part i’m getting confusing data. As you can see in the picture, i have selected the p1s and the 0.4 nozzle. That agrees with what the printer shows on its on-board control screen.
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But when you look down below, it shows a 0.2 nozzle on a x1c. And the x1c is the only printer available to choose. What’s going on?
.
IMG_0099.jpeg
 

KwikFab

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Need a little help please. Just got a P1S, trying to use it for the first time. Did a test print, it’s ok. But trying to do a chair part i’m getting confusing data. As you can see in the picture, i have selected the p1s and the 0.4 nozzle. That agrees with what the printer shows on its on-board control screen.
.
But when you look down below, it shows a 0.2 nozzle on a x1c. And the x1c is the only printer available to choose. What’s going on?
.
IMG_0099.jpeg

Just some standard preset - the X1C and P1S are pretty much the same.

I never mess with those presets, and have never had any issue. But again that's why you'll see "X1C", because you've got a P1S.
 
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Yankeefarmer

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From a guy that has never printed anything and figuring out which printer would be best. The X2D with ams is only 150 dollars more then the p2s with ams I believe. I have no clue if the second head for supports is needed for what I want to print but my thought was I don't want to spend 750 for the p2s and then find out down the road the x2d would have been better. That extra 150 seems like a good idea to spend now and have the capability in case I need it. Is there any downside to getting the x2d over the p2s if you don't ever use the second head besides the price? I just hate when I spend money on something and later wish I had spent a few more bucks to have more features.
Can’t help you specifically with your question, but that is the approach that I took when I selected the X1C over the P?S. I have absolutely no regrets.
 

Old tool guy

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Another conundrum with my p1s. First print job. I know i set walls at 4 and infill at 15%, and i went back after i took this picture and verified. So why is this showing 2 walls and 10%?
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IMG_3812.jpeg
 

ptt49er

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My guess is that's the file name from where you downloaded the print files. I don't think it displays the actual settings from the slicer.
 

duneslider

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At the day job we have seen an increase in the need to print things, I had been doing it at home. Talked management into buying one, since it wasn't on our dime...we ordered a Bambu H2D.

It is huge, I didn't realize how large it would be. It is also very quiet and very fancy compared to my P1S
 

Old tool guy

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Next question. What is causing the voids on the corners? What test should i run to determine which settings to asjust? And going back to the previous question a little, i selected 3d honeycomb infill but it printed gyroid. Why?
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IMG_0104.jpeg
 

duneslider

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You may want to hold off. The H3C might be coming soon.
https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1wemnus
I am sure an H3 would be an upgrade but honestly, the H2 is pretty fancy. Maybe if the H3 is dropping the prices will come down on the H2.

I wouldn't mind something with 2 print nozzles though, this thing does two color pretty fast compared to my P1S. I don't know that I could personally ever justify a H2 though. The X2D is looking tempting though.
 

ER70S-2

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I am sure an H3 would be an upgrade but honestly, the H2 is pretty fancy. Maybe if the H3 is dropping the prices will come down on the H2.

I wouldn't mind something with 2 print nozzles though, this thing does two color pretty fast compared to my P1S. I don't know that I could personally ever justify a H2 though. The X2D is looking tempting though.
Yeah, I have an H2D and I am most definitely not going to upgrade to the H3D no matter what its specs are. I only do functional prints and have not been limited by the H2D's specs yet.
 

Old tool guy

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Next question. What is causing the voids on the corners? What test should i run to determine which settings to asjust? And going back to the previous question a little, i selected 3d honeycomb infill but it printed gyroid. Why?
.
On the voids … that’s what happens when you install a new 0.6 nozzle and fail to update the printer via the on-board control screen. No matter how many times you select 0.6 on the slicer … it doesn’t take.

Still curious why the infill pattern didn’t change.
 

LeonardY

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Thinking of getting a printer to make some small parts for the bikes that are unobtanium, and some jigs for rebuilding speakers. I'm sure there are other things in the future that could justify the expense, and space.
I use my all the time for that sort of stuff. I just made a couple of spacers for Blink camera mounts. I could have cut them out of wood but a quick model and 30 minutes of print time and I was done.
 
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