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The Everything 3D Printer Thread

plc268

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Takes 3days to print a drill holder. Costs about 3to 5 bucks in filament.

Some printers are faster and better quality than mine. Guess it depends on the $ you wanna spend.

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Yikes. Three days? What speed are you printing those things at and what infill? I can tell they're big, but that seems almost excessive. For something like that I'd print at a large layer height with a big nozzle. Since there don't seem to be any intricate details, a large layer height wouldn't be detrimental to model.



Which is another thing I'd like to talk about: People new to 3d printing (and me included) pay too much attention to "resolution of prints." It's usually a big selling point on how thin you can make the layers, but unless you're printing miniatures that require a lot of detail, it rarely makes sense to print at anything below 0.2 mm layer height.
 
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Steve_mc0

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Yikes. Three days? What speed are you printing those things at and what infill? I can tell they're big, but that seems almost excessive. For something like that I'd print at a large layer height with a big nozzle. Since there don't seem to be any intricate details, a large layer height wouldn't be detrimental to model.



Which is another thing I'd like to talk about: People new to 3d printing (and me included) pay too much attention to "resolution of prints." It's usually a big selling point on how thin you can make the layers, but unless you're printing miniatures that require a lot of detail, it rarely makes sense to print at anything below 0.2 mm layer height.
Even at a larger layer height my printer is struggling with print speeds. If I turn up the speed I get stringing and layer separation. Something I need to work on.

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zr52002

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This is my additional comments on the CR10S vs. FT-5 debate...

How good are you guys at DIY'ing electronics? If you're not afraid of soldering, editing firmware code, and wiring things up, then the FT-5 won't be a problem for you at all.

If you think you want to eventually print really strong parts in ABS or Nylon, the FT-5 gets the nod only because it is much easier to enclose the entire printer frame. The CR10S would have to be put into a cabinet to enclose it.

If you want to print flexible filaments, then the FT-5 will be a little better off the bat, but the CR10S can be modded to handle flexibles just fine with a BondTech extruder upgrade.

The FT-5 design is inherently a little stronger, but to get the most out of it, you will eventually have to replace some parts with better components.

If you will happy primarily printing PLA+ or PETG for parts, then the CR10S gets the nod for ease of setup. It's literally just bolting two assemblies together; tightening all of the screws/bolts, especially on the stepper couplers; preparing the print bed; checking the glass to make sure it's not warped or bowed; plugging in cables; and making sure the voltage switch is set the correct voltage for your country. The biggest complaint of the CR10S is the glass print bed. Many have had them arrived broken, bowed, or warped. Worst case you have to get a new piece of plate glass or a mirror cut.

The FT-5 is more work to build and setup, but you can ensure it's all square and good to go as you progress through the build. IIRC, the FT-5 manual isn't the greatest, but there are a LOT of assembly videos on YouTube.

Once you have either printer assembled, there are plenty of upgrade parts available to print from Thingiverse... but the FT-5 has a really sweet set of upgrades available from 713maker.com. I mean REALLY sweet. And a waiting list to go with them. Lilscorpion and I are both on the waiting list.


Again, these are just point IMHO. I don't really think one is better than the other, they have different advantages depending on needs or desires.

If I end up with a CR10S, I'm planning to upgrade the Y-axis slides to match those from the larger 4S and 5S cousins with the V-wheels in 2040 extrusion just to make the axis more robust, stable and smoother.

I think a good way to frame this is - do you want to have a 3d printer so you can tinker with 3d printers, or do you want a 3d printer to make stuff? A lot of people are in it to tinker with the printer and that's fine, but a lot of people don't want to spend months dealing with that.

And if you're in it to make stuff, are you in it to make functional parts, or to make quasi-art?

And of those making functional parts, are you trying to make fixtures, organizers, jigs, etc - or get really clever to where you need to run exotic (read: PITA) filaments?

Like I mentioned in the other thread - printing in nylon (or even ABS) is neat to say you've done, but not worth the hassle for most applications. PLA, PETG, and TPU will take you a LONG way and print pretty easily.
 
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BoilermakerFan

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And there is tinkering and then there is just getting frustrated at every turn... I don't think that applies to CR10S or even FT-5 so much as it does these super cheap Chinese clones that have almost no support. The Geeetech support forum is a joke. i swear they just keep linking you to other threads. And then you get to play "Find the needle" to get the info you need.

I really can't wait until tomorrow when I bring the Prusa i3 MK2 home. I am looking forward to getting the GT working acceptably well so that I can donate it to the school too.

zr52002, since you have a genuine Prusa Mk2, which brand of PETG does it like the best? Are you still running the stock extruder or did you upgrade? The Mk2 to Mk2.5 upgrade kit includes the MK52 heat bed and the parts to upgrade to the BondTech extruder, filament detector, and another piece, bed leveling IIRC... I'm seriously considering that upgrade kit for the Prusa Mk2, then I'll put the MK42 bed on the GT before I donate it. Might even swap the old extruder over and just pick up a E3D V6 clone for the GT... three birds, one stone.
 

Steve_mc0

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I've found my i3 Wanhao to have lots of support information.

Hardest part is when you upgrade to the newer Cura version you have to create profiles for your materials all over again from scratch.

Overall it's a great printer that has produced lots of quality prints with little to no modding.

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BoilermakerFan

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I've found my i3 Wanhao to have lots of support information.

Hardest part is when you upgrade to the newer Cura version you have to create profiles for your materials all over again from scratch.

Overall it's a great printer that has produced lots of quality prints with little to no modding.

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Can you export the settings or at least print them off before upgrading?
 

Steve_mc0

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Can you export the settings or at least print them off before upgrading?
I have both programs installed at the same time.
The issue is there's about a thousand more settings in the new software which is great when you know what you're doing.

But it's hard to know exactly what each setting does to affect the print. Especially without wasting a heap of filament each time you test.

I'll get there though. Will just take time.

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BoilermakerFan

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I have both programs installed at the same time.
The issue is there's about a thousand more settings in the new software which is great when you know what you're doing.

But it's hard to know exactly what each setting does to affect the print. Especially without wasting a heap of filament each time you test.

I'll get there though. Will just take time.

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I was asking because I'm looking at trying Cura. I tried Repetier-Host on the Mac, but Simplify3D worked better on the Mac. I have my second license of S3D on my new ThinkPad but there are some boards and printers that work better with Cura so I was going to try it. But I was hoping there is a way to export or print out the current settings...
 

Steve_mc0

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I was asking because I'm looking at trying Cura. I tried Repetier-Host on the Mac, but Simplify3D worked better on the Mac. I have my second license of S3D on my new ThinkPad but there are some boards and printers that work better with Cura so I was going to try it. But I was hoping there is a way to export or print out the current settings...
You could certainly transcribe the settings over that you know match. I'd just copy and paste them over.

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zr52002

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zr52002, since you have a genuine Prusa Mk2, which brand of PETG does it like the best? Are you still running the stock extruder or did you upgrade? The Mk2 to Mk2.5 upgrade kit includes the MK52 heat bed and the parts to upgrade to the BondTech extruder, filament detector, and another piece, bed leveling IIRC... I'm seriously considering that upgrade kit for the Prusa Mk2, then I'll put the MK42 bed on the GT before I donate it. Might even swap the old extruder over and just pick up a E3D V6 clone for the GT... three birds, one stone.

I have had good luck with eSun PETG, although I mostly print with PLA because it's easier and PLA is good enough.

Still on stock extruder.

I would skip the upgrade on your printer. You actually need the MK2 -> MK2S, then MK2S -> MK2.5 to get everything. Plus printing all the 3d printable parts is on you ... and some of those parts can be challenging if you don't really know your printer yet. And TBH, taking apart the y-axis is a PITA - I have the MK2->MK2S kit sitting here for over a year and can't make myself take the time to do it. Lots of opportunities to break wiring etc.
 

Fly YX

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Anyone use any of the Monoprice printers I built one of the Folgers printers when it came out and it worked okay gave it to my uncle to play with.Got a XYZ printer and it was a hunk of junk always had to align the bed. Right after the warranty expired it did a update and corrupted the software so I had to download third-party software on the printer and never really got it to work right since.
 
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BoilermakerFan

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I have had good luck with eSun PETG, although I mostly print with PLA because it's easier and PLA is good enough.

Still on stock extruder.

I would skip the upgrade on your printer. You actually need the MK2 -> MK2S, then MK2S -> MK2.5 to get everything. Plus printing all the 3d printable parts is on you ... and some of those parts can be challenging if you don't really know your printer yet. And TBH, taking apart the y-axis is a PITA - I have the MK2->MK2S kit sitting here for over a year and can't make myself take the time to do it. Lots of opportunities to break wiring etc.

Thanks for the feedback on the eSun PETG. I need to order some...

My printer is the MK2 and not the MK2S... so I would need the MK2 --> MK2S upgrade as well.

BUT, I'm seriously considering the the MK2S --> to full MK3 upgrade. Here's why... I have the GeeeTech i3 that I loathe right now... And it needs upgrades. So I can use all of the parts I pull off my MK2 on the GeeeTech to make it a better printer. And since I'm donating it, I just have to document the new parts on the donation form and my time so I will get a larger donation receipt. More money off my taxes and the full upgrade becomes much cheaper for me while the school gets a better printer too.
 
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BoilermakerFan

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I have had good luck with eSun PETG, although I mostly print with PLA because it's easier and PLA is good enough.

Still on stock extruder.

I would skip the upgrade on your printer. You actually need the MK2 -> MK2S, then MK2S -> MK2.5 to get everything. Plus printing all the 3d printable parts is on you ... and some of those parts can be challenging if you don't really know your printer yet. And TBH, taking apart the y-axis is a PITA - I have the MK2->MK2S kit sitting here for over a year and can't make myself take the time to do it. Lots of opportunities to break wiring etc.

Oh, one last question, have you tried the EasyABS that Prusa includes with the upgrade kits to print the new parts?
 
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BoilermakerFan

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Oh what a difference a printer makes!

20180309_180324.jpg


20180309_133347.jpg


20180309_144117.jpg


20180309_164610.jpg


20180309_164143.jpg


It's not perfect, but the PLA has been on the printer in a commercial retail store for months. Considering the age of the PLA and the fact it had sat for months unused, I'm really happy with the results.

The V29 whistle didn't turn out quite as good because I missed the fact that the extruder temp was only 210degC instead of 215 which is the sweet spot for the eSun PLA, so there are some under extrusion flaws:

20180310_001449.jpg


And this was sliced and copied to the SD card using S3D's default settings for an i3 clone. I've since downloaded the setup file for the Genuine Prusa i3 MK2.

The main thing I noticed with the MK2 vs the GT clone is that the GT clone is MUCH quieter. I need to see which stepper drivers the MK2 has installed and see if I can swap over the ones from the GT clone. It's only a temporary issue until I get the MK3 upgrade which has the new TMC2130 drivers, but I don't want the GT to be loud when I donate it to the school either.
 
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BoilermakerFan

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Anyone use any of the Monoprice printers I built one of the Folgers printers when it came out and it worked okay gave it to my uncle to play with.Got a XYZ printer and it was a hunk of junk always had to align the bed. Right after the warranty expired it did a update and corrupted the software so I had to download third-party software on the printer and never really got it to work right since.

The Monoprice Mini seems to be a very well received printer and down right amazing for the price. There are upgraded carriages on Thingiverse to use an E3D V6 hot end on it. A friend is seriously considering the purchase of the Monoprice Mini Delta unit. The Monoprice units use a 32-bit ARM processor, but it's not one of the common ones that are in the other 3rd part cards like the Duet Wifi or Arduino Due.
 
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BoilermakerFan

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Awesome stuff bro

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Thanks. I'm glad that it validated that the issue with the GT i3 Pro B is the extruder/hot end. I was 95% certain that it was and the fact that I used the same file and generic i3 settings from S3D to print that 3Dbenchy on the MK2 confirmed it for me.

I'm tempted to swap the MK2 carriage assembly over to the GT to see what it can do with a complete swap over, but I'm not until after the MK3 upgrade arrives and I have all the new parts I need printed... just in case it's a driver issue that might be damaging the extruder motor. I don't think it is, but better safe than sorry.
 

plc268

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The only thing about the genuine prusa machines, is that they can be finicky with first layer height. They use a probe and auto level, but on the MK2, the probe is sensitive to heat... so if you heat up the heatbed with the nozzle close to the bed, it skews your settings. And there's times where it just acts completely unpredictable. Makes you wish you manually level the bed sometimes.

The mk3 is supposed to be better in this instance, but in my experience, it's just as finicky. But looking at the prusa forums, it seems like it is mostly a firmware bug that is causing first layer issues.

Which is another annoying thing about the genuine prusa printers. If your printer is stable and you are happy with your print quality, don't bother upgrading your firmware. There's been too many times where new firmware breaks something, and you'll think it's a hardware issue, but instead was a software bug all along.

The QC on their firmware is just not great at all, so just beware.
 
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BoilermakerFan

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The only thing about the genuine prusa machines, is that they can be finicky with first layer height. They use a probe and auto level, but on the MK2, the probe is sensitive to heat... so if you heat up the heatbed with the nozzle close to the bed, it skews your settings. And there's times where it just acts completely unpredictable. Makes you wish you manually level the bed sometimes.

The mk3 is supposed to be better in this instance, but in my experience, it's just as finicky. But looking at the prusa forums, it seems like it is mostly a firmware bug that is causing first layer issues.

Which is another annoying thing about the genuine prusa printers. If your printer is stable and you are happy with your print quality, don't bother upgrading your firmware. There's been too many times where new firmware breaks something, and you'll think it's a hardware issue, but instead was a software bug all along.

The QC on their firmware is just not great at all, so just beware.


Thanks for those tips/comments. On both of my prints I had to stop and restart because the first layer didn't stick or was pealed off by the third layer. If I heat the bed up to 70degC and make sure it's truly hot before starting the print it works fine. I wonder if dropping the prox sensor just a hair will help?

And good to know on the firmware. I was considering an upgrade to the latest stable release, but whatever version is on it is working so I'll probably just leave it alone. I need to open the controller enclosure to see what stepper drivers are installed as it's much louder than my GeeeTech clone with the stock drivers. Just haven't had time to research it yet.

Another friend of mine ordered a Monoprice Mini Delta. So that will be cool to see how his works out of the box and after some tweaks/upgrades.
 
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BoilermakerFan

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The only thing about the genuine prusa machines, is that they can be finicky with first layer height. They use a probe and auto level, but on the MK2, the probe is sensitive to heat... so if you heat up the heatbed with the nozzle close to the bed, it skews your settings. And there's times where it just acts completely unpredictable. Makes you wish you manually level the bed sometimes.

The mk3 is supposed to be better in this instance, but in my experience, it's just as finicky. But looking at the prusa forums, it seems like it is mostly a firmware bug that is causing first layer issues.

Which is another annoying thing about the genuine prusa printers. If your printer is stable and you are happy with your print quality, don't bother upgrading your firmware. There's been too many times where new firmware breaks something, and you'll think it's a hardware issue, but instead was a software bug all along.

The QC on their firmware is just not great at all, so just beware.

This is biting me in the **** today. I don't know if the tape on the print bed is just "tired" or what, but I've had 4 print attempts fail after about 10 layers up. The print is just lifted off the bed and dragged around. The first one i could almost understand since I was trying to print a figurine for my wife at very high quality so very low layer height. But the second one was at the standard 0.2mm height. I have too many errands to take of today to mess with it anymore until later tonight.

I may try Repetier or Cura for slicing too and see if that has any effect on it.
 
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BoilermakerFan

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Researched the issue...

I cleaned the bed with 91% Isopropyl Alcohol, upgraded the firmware to the latest stable version (3.1.0) from my old 3.0.1 version, and calibrated everything again. My first layer was printing way too close so it was basically smearing and lifting. It took about 20 calibration prints and several nozzle cleanings to get it acceptable. It was a little frustrating because I would have a partially good calibration, tweak it just a smidge and then the next test would fail or be too high. So I errored on the high side and turned up the heat on the bed. :D

I have a much bigger print going now and it's first layer isn't perfect, but it's much better. It's actually a little too high now, but I'll adjust it tomorrow when this print is done. I'm printing the bee piece from the game the Hive, but I scaled it up close to 500% so it's about 80mm wide and 60mm thick. It's for my wife, but I'm going to adjust the Z again and print another one to see if I can get it perfect. I need 3 of them in total for my wife and two of her friends. Hopefully the second or third will be perfect.

Then I can go back and try to print the figurines again. One is a realistic sea otter for my wife and the other is a polygonal goat for my son. If those work out, I have to print a sea turtle for my daughter with a black body and the semi-transparent blue for the shell. It's a two piece assembly so it will just be glued together when finished. I'll have to re-calibrate the first layer Z when I switch to the blue filament, but then I'll print off five V29 whistles at .1mm layer height for a nice smooth surface. Little gifts for the gym teachers and my co-coaches at lacrosse.

With the latest firmware it is printing a little quieter, but I still need to see if I can swap/upgrade the drivers on my Rev 1.3 board. If I can't, I'll have to see if I can tweak the settings for the existing drivers to quiet down the motors. I moved the printer down into the basement before calibrating so it's not keeping everyone in the house awake.
 

Miss the Pontiacs

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The following is an article I found in Hemmings.
Could 3D printed parts ensure the longevity of the collector car hobby?
Kurt Ernst on Mar 9th, 2018 at 8am.

Own old cars, trucks or motorcycles long enough, and sooner or later a common problem arises: A needed part is no longer available. Porsche Classic has recently announced an innovative solution (for a select grouping of components, anyway), which raises the question: Can 3D printed parts eventually be the answer to owners’ and restorers’ prayers?

Three-dimensional printing, now part of a process commonly referred to as additive manufacturing, can trace its roots to the 1980s, but it would take until the early 21st century for the technology to jump from lab to industry. By 2010 or so, printers had become affordable and powerful enough to gain favor among low-volume manufacturers, where they were typically used for rapid prototyping of parts.


A support bracket from the Porsche 356 B and C, now created using selective laser melting.

Early 3D printers used plastic resins (usually cured by UV light) to create objects, limiting their potential uses. An intake manifold, for example, could be designed on a computer, printed in a shop, and then tested on a customer’s vehicle for fit, but the plastic material wasn’t initially capable of withstanding high temps and strong vibration. On the other hand, the plastic part could be used to produce a mold to create the final metal-cast part, streamlining the tradtional design and manufacturing process.

In more recent years, additive manufacturing has expanded to included a wider array of printable materials, including both stronger plastic and metal, leading to the rise of “desktop manufacturing.” Not only are automotive aftermarket parts now occasionally made in this manner, but hypercar manufacturer Koenigsegg and boutique manufacturer Local Motors have both adopted 3D printing as part of the manufacturing process. Even the aerospace industry has embraced the technology, using 3D printed parts in the Airbus A350 XWB and the Eurofighter Typhoon.


Plastic parts, such as this Porsche 959 filler cap seal, must meet standards for UV and chemical resistance.

Which brings us full circle to Porsche Classic, which announced earlier this month that 3D printing would be used to create parts for cars such as the uber-rare 959, of which only 292 examples were ever created. Prior to 3D printing’s maturation, duplicating an out-of-stock part sometimes required the re-creation of machine tools or dies, a costly proposition for a low-volume replacement part.

In contrast, Porsche describes the process of 3D printing a clutch release lever for the 959 in its press release:

To manufacture the release lever, a layer of powdery tool steel less than 0.1 millimeters thick is applied to a processing plate in a computerized process. In an inert atmosphere, a high-energy light beam then melts the powder in the desired locations to create a steel layer. Thus, the complete three-dimensional component is produced, layer by layer. Both the pressure test with a load of almost three tons and the subsequent tomographic examination for internal faults were passed by the printed release lever with flying colors. The practical tests with the lever installed in a test vehicle and extensive driving tests confirm the impeccable quality and function of the component.
Thanks to such positive results, Porsche Classic’s 52,000 item parts stock now includes nine parts manufactured via a 3D printing process. Steel or alloy parts are “built” using the selective laser melting process described above, while plastic parts are created using a Selective Laser Sintering (SLS) process, where the material is heated to just below its melting point prior to being deposited on the layer below. A laser is then used to fuse the plastic powder in the desired location, (eventually) creating the part desired. Like the original components, 3D printed plastic parts must meet the German automaker’s standards for strength, as well as UV light and chemical resistance.


Porsche 911 Speedster mirror foot. No longer “no longer available.”

Creating a 3D printed part begins with a three-dimensional scan of an original part, eliminating a potentially complex design step. Porsche Classic is currently evaluating an additional 20 components to determine whether 3D printing represents a viable alternative to more traditional production methods.

Though 3D printing continues to have limited applications today, advances in material science (and 3D printers themselves) may change this in the coming years. With an ever-increasing number of automakers adding “Classic” divisions (a list that now includes Porsche, Jaguar, Land Rover, FCA, Mercedes-Benz, Ferrari, BMW, and Lamborghini), is it possible that future collectors and restorers may never know the anguish of “no longer available?” Could a viable business model soon be made for a small, low-volume shop to scan, edit, and then print a new fender for a Studebaker, or a new engine block for a flathead Ford V-8?

Not tomorrow, most likely, but perhaps in the next decade or so. Perhaps this “future” thing won’t be so bad, after all.
 
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BoilermakerFan

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Cool article! Eaton Corp. had a demo of 3D printing casting molds for hydraulic parts at their distributor meeting last November.

The university where I teach as an adjunct instructor has a new 3D printer (sorry, I don't know which one) that can 3D print molds for injection molding machines capable of molding parts for 50-100 cycles. The university has a small injection molding machine in the lab too, so seniors have been working with both machines to vet out the process for their senior project. I wish the molding machine was bigger, it's only capable of using a roughly 6"x6"x1" mold cavity. It's not big enough for me to mold obsolete parts for my motorcycles like valve cover seals.

My long term goal for 3D printing is to print the seat/rear trim and side covers for the original Honda SOHC CB650 Nighthawk, but clean up the tail and add mounts for a more modern LED tail light:

1982%20Honda%20CB%20650SC%20Nighthawk.jpg


* Not my bike, but the best pic of one I could find online * Mine will be a restomod custom: wire wheels or later model cast mags instead of comstars; inverted CBR fork; Honda Interceptor rear swingarm with monoshock; modern lighting, mirrors, handlebar, and gauges; a frankenSOHC engine- C5 Ignition, Mikuni round slide VM carbs, CB550 case and transmission for a kick starter, CB650 rods and head, and overbore CB750 pistons for a total displacement of 754cc; Kinetic Motorcycles SS 4-into-1 exhaust; and a custom seat.


And in other news... after RTFM on the Prusa MK2, I realized my P.I.N.D.A. bed level sensor is actually too high from the bed, so it's in the hysteresis deadband area of the sensor. That is causing my first layer calibration tests to pass or fail during consecutive prints at the same settings. The manual also suggested adding glue stick to the PEI bed on PLA prints with tall prints that have small contact points on the bed. Amazing! Reading the ****** manual actually told me how to fix my issues! :lol:
 
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WhoWhatNow

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This is an awesome thread. I think I am learning a lot, but please humor a complete noob for a minute.

If I want to get started with 3D printing at home exactly what do I need and which budget printer has the best chance of working right out of the box?
From what I have gleamed from this thread:

The Creality CR-10S may be the best to start with since it works pretty well right out of the box.
Then I need a CAD program if I want to design my own pieces (I was thinking Fusion 360),
A slicing application to take the CAD design to something the printer can use. – Cura?
Some decent PLA. – eSun PLA?
I would also need a laptop since I don’t have a computer at home that will run Fusion 360.

Am I missing anything?

I would most likely start off with predesigned things from Thingiverse but would like to design my own widgets at some point.
 
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BoilermakerFan

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This is an awesome thread. I think I am learning a lot, but please humor a complete noob for a minute.

If I want to get started with 3D printing at home exactly what do I need and which budget printer has the best chance of working right out of the box?
From what I have gleamed from this thread:

The Creality CR-10S may be the best to start with since it works pretty well right out of the box.
Then I need a CAD program if I want to design my own pieces (I was thinking Fusion 360),
A slicing application to take the CAD design to something the printer can use. – Cura?
Some decent PLA. – eSun PLA?
I would also need a laptop since I don’t have a computer at home that will run Fusion 360.

Am I missing anything?

I would most likely start off with predesigned things from Thingiverse but would like to design my own widgets at some point.

What's your budget? How big do you want to print? Smaller print volume printers are less expensive and take up less space.

Fusion360 or Tinkercad will work just fine.

On a Windows machine, it seems like every manufacture of the printers has a program to run their printers that includes a slicer... These are designed to make it as easy as possible to get printing.

Then there are the third party slicers like Repetier-Host, Cura, and Simplify3D. R-H and Cura are free. All 3 are very powerful programs so you can dive in and customize settings, but they also have general settings for several 3D printers included by default.

I've been really happy with the eSun PLA. I have a roll of generic PLA I inherited with the GeeeTech. I may try it on the Prusa, but it didn't work on the GT at all since it specifies a print temp range at the very limit of what the GT hot end will do.

I'm getting ready to order a collection of new filaments. Mostly eSun's PLA+, PETG, and ePC. The eSun ePC is the one I'm most interested in trying. It gets great reviews and is stronger than PLA+ or ABS since it's a polycarbonate (Lexan).

I'm also going to subscribe to Maker Box. It's a low cost monthly subscription where they send you a sample size package of four different filaments a month.

If you your printer has a glass top on the heat bed, you'll need Elmer's glue sticks, blue painters tape, and Aqua Net hairspray to help the prints stick. One of the three usually does the trick and reviews for the particular filament you're using generally have a consensus of what work best in the review or comments.

Most of the printer have a SD card reader, but most can only use up to a 32Gig card. You can print directly from the SD card without the PC. That's what I'm doing right now and it's usually more reliable than printer over USB via PC, plus you're not anchored to the printer.
 
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BoilermakerFan

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Speaking of CAD, anyone here using AutoCAD, converting solid models to .stl files? I am using an AutoCAD clone, BricsCAD. I have been using AutoCAD for 30 years and don't really care to start over with a new software.

I have AutoCAD and Inventor loaded on my new beast, but I haven't started using them for my own designs yet.

Does BricsCAD have an option to save as or export as a STL file?

Edit: If you just need a .DWG or .DXF file converted, put it on DropBox, send me a link via DM and I'll see if I can open it to resave as a .STL for you.
 
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WhoWhatNow

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For budget I would like to stay under 1K, but with a PC included that may be tough. I guess around $500 max for the printer. Is it worth looking at used printers on CL/eBay or is it likely that the printer will be a project in itself?
 

Richard D

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I have AutoCAD and Inventor loaded on my new beast, but I haven't started using them for my own designs yet.

Does BricsCAD have an option to save as or export as a STL file?

Edit: If you just need a .DWG or .DXF file converted, put it on DropBox, send me a link via DM and I'll see if I can open it to resave as a .STL for you.

It will export to .stl.
 
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BoilermakerFan

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For budget I would like to stay under 1K, but with a PC included that may be tough. I guess around $500 max for the printer. Is it worth looking at used printers on CL/eBay or is it likely that the printer will be a project in itself?

Well, my experience with a cheap Chinese clone printer that was free has been frustrating, and I knew that going into it. If I had bought this off CL/eBay used, I would have been beyond pissed off.

I bought my genuine Prusa i3 MK2 used from another friend that had it in his store. It's definitely been easier to get going, but you guys have seen that I'm still tweaking it. However, that would have to be done regardless of buying it as a kit or assembled and tested (except for readjusting the PINDA sensor).

So if you go the CL route, I would only buy a higher end machine used so you have good components on the printer and great support. A Genuine Prusa i3, Ultimaker, etc.

Hmmm... check the PC requirements for Fusion360 and TinkerCAD. I'm not sure how happy you will be running them on a budget PC. If you're just getting a small desktop system you maybe ok since it would have dedicated graphics, but a laptop would be very slow or not even run the software.

If it were me, I would put more money towards the PC and go with a used Prusa MK2 or new Monoprice Mini printer. Then upgrade to a bigger, better printer later.
 

WhoWhatNow

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Well, my experience with a cheap Chinese clone printer that was free has been frustrating, and I knew that going into it. If I had bought this off CL/eBay used, I would have been beyond pissed off.

I bought my genuine Prusa i3 MK2 used from another friend that had it in his store. It's definitely been easier to get going, but you guys have seen that I'm still tweaking it. However, that would have to be done regardless of buying it as a kit or assembled and tested (except for readjusting the PINDA sensor).

So if you go the CL route, I would only buy a higher end machine used so you have good components on the printer and great support. A Genuine Prusa i3, Ultimaker, etc.

Hmmm... check the PC requirements for Fusion360 and TinkerCAD. I'm not sure how happy you will be running them on a budget PC. If you're just getting a small desktop system you maybe ok since it would have dedicated graphics, but a laptop would be very slow or not even run the software.

If it were me, I would put more money towards the PC and go with a used Prusa MK2 or new Monoprice Mini printer. Then upgrade to a bigger, better printer later.


I looked at what people recommend for Fusion 360 on a laptop and it seems to be i7 (7th Gen), 8GB RAM, SSD, Full HD screen and an separate video card (Nvidia Geforce 940MX). That is basically a gaming laptop so they aren't cheap. I'm looking for a refurbished one now.

Thanks for the printer suggestions. The hunt begins!
 
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BoilermakerFan

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I looked at what people recommend for Fusion 360 on a laptop and it seems to be i7 (7th Gen), 8GB RAM, SSD, Full HD screen and an separate video card (Nvidia Geforce 940MX). That is basically a gaming laptop so they aren't cheap. I'm looking for a refurbished one now.

Thanks for the printer suggestions. The hunt begins!

What about a mini desktop? Then just use the HDMI out to your TV? Lowest cost way into a machine with those specs that I can think of. I've seen refurbished ones on Groupon and Woot deals.
 

zr52002

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And in other news... after RTFM on the Prusa MK2, I realized my P.I.N.D.A. bed level sensor is actually too high from the bed, so it's in the hysteresis deadband area of the sensor. That is causing my first layer calibration tests to pass or fail during consecutive prints at the same settings. The manual also suggested adding glue stick to the PEI bed on PLA prints with tall prints that have small contact points on the bed. Amazing! Reading the ****** manual actually told me how to fix my issues! :lol:

Helper disks can be a huge help with "tall" (doesn't need to be that tall) prints as well as prints with square corners on long edges. See https://www.makerbot.com/media-center/2013/04/19/keep-corners-flat-with-makerwares-helper-discs

You don't need to use their software - just make an STL of a disc that's 10-15mm in diameter and about 1mm thick, and place it outset of the corners.

Ironically they can be a big help in getting a print off the bed after it's printed - they will flex up and let you get a spatula under the edge, whereas a solid print with stiff edges can be hard to get loose.

Then use a pair of flush cutters to trip off the disks after the print is loose.
 
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BoilermakerFan

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Helper disks can be a huge help with "tall" (doesn't need to be that tall) prints as well as prints with square corners on long edges. See https://www.makerbot.com/media-center/2013/04/19/keep-corners-flat-with-makerwares-helper-discs

You don't need to use their software - just make an STL of a disc that's 10-15mm in diameter and about 1mm thick, and place it outset of the corners.

Ironically they can be a big help in getting a print off the bed after it's printed - they will flex up and let you get a spatula under the edge, whereas a solid print with stiff edges can be hard to get loose.

Then use a pair of flush cutters to trip off the disks after the print is loose.

Thanks for the tip!

I adjusted my sensor and recalibrated. Adjusted the Z down on two consecutive calibration prints and had a very good result, then it printed the same results three more times in a row.

I also learned, by reading the bloomin' manual, that the Prusa MK2 has multiple modes like the MK3. My printer was set to High Power mode. Switched it to Auto and Voila! SO MUCH QUIETER! :lol:

Then I went back to the two files I had on the SD card and added a raft. Well, it's either the model or the S3D slicing, but both failed again. The printer printed the raft and first layer that was on the raft, but didn't move to the other two or three points and print additional rafts. Instead it was 0.6mm higher than it should have been and spit out filament. :wtf:

Changed to a different file on the SD card and it is printing beautifully now.

I'm going to import the STL files from the two models that failed into the Prusa software and slice it again to see if it does the job correctly. If not, I'll download Cura and try a third time. If it fails all three then I know the models have errors. Actually, the goat started to print ok the first time without the raft so I may just remove the raft, use the glue stick, and try it again, but the sea otter never tried to print the two other first layers for the front feet so I think that is a S3D slicing error or the model itself.

Anyway, I'm really stoked that I sorted out the two big issues I was having with the Prusa MK2: The first layer calibration and the noise. :pimpflash
 
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BoilermakerFan

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Am I missing anything?

Yes, I forgot to add small brass wire brushes. The kind sold for cleaning firearms. Harbor Freight sells a 3 pack of brushes; one brass, one SS, and one nylon brush. Use the brass to clean the nozzle (when it's heated up to temp). I use the SS brush to clean the plastic off the brass brush.

You will absolutely need the brush to clean the nozzle when calibrating and after a failed print if the hot end catches the lower layers or rips them off the print bed as mine did a few times.
 

plc268

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This is biting me in the **** today. I don't know if the tape on the print bed is just "tired" or what, but I've had 4 print attempts fail after about 10 layers up. The print is just lifted off the bed and dragged around. The first one i could almost understand since I was trying to print a figurine for my wife at very high quality so very low layer height. But the second one was at the standard 0.2mm height. I have too many errands to take of today to mess with it anymore until later tonight.

I may try Repetier or Cura for slicing too and see if that has any effect on it.

What material were you printing with? PLA, right?

So here's the thing, the PEI surface on the prusa beds is great, but my experience is that the PEI loses adhesion to PLA over time for some reason. The only reliable way I can get it to regain adhesion with PLA is by lightly sanding the bed with 2000 grit sandpaper. Then clean off with acetone and/or alcohol.

I also tend to print a lot of PETG filament, and one of the upsides (or downsides depending on your perspective), is that it sticks extremely well to the PEI surface. In fact, many people recommend purposely decreasing the adhesion of the PEI. The way I do it, is that I just rub my hands all over the surface.

PLA doesn't like that at all. It adheres best to a clean surface.

Also, if you're still struggling to get that first layer to stick, you may be printing the first layer too fast. Perhaps I go overboard, but in the slicer, I set the first layer to be at 20 mm/s. You could also turn the speed down by the dial on the front as well

I also learned, by reading the bloomin' manual, that the Prusa MK2 has multiple modes like the MK3. My printer was set to High Power mode. Switched it to Auto and Voila! SO MUCH QUIETER! :lol:

Well, the MK3 is quieter for a different reason, the MK3 uses different stepper drivers.

The MK3 in normal (high power mode) is still quieter than the MK2 in silent mode.

The thing about silent mode in the MK2, is that it drastically reduces torque to the stepper motors. So if for any reason there's a small obstruction, it will cause the motor to skip a step, and cause a layer shift. And at that point, it's game over and you have to start the print over again.

And by obstructions, I mean like filament that has curled up on overhangs (pretty much any filament can do this). Also if you print with PETG, and print without a silicone sock around the hotend, it likes to drop PETG "boogers" once in a while.

PETG likes to ooze alot, especially at the higher print range (240C +), and it likes to stick to the nozzle. So over time, it'll collect on the nozzle and burn. And, once it's burnt, it'll drop onto your print, causing an obstruction. The printer in normal mode usually will have the power to go right through it, but in silent mode, it won't.

So my recommendation for silent mode:
For long prints, don't. Not worth losing a whole print on the off chance one obstruction will mess it up.

Prints with a lot of overhangs. Maybe. Try to watch the print and check to see if the overhangs start curling up.

PETG prints: you can, just don't be surprised you'll lose a few prints.

If noise is a concern, download and print the dampeners for the printer. They may introduce some slight artifacting (the printer will rock back and forth with these) in your prints, but it'll make it much quieter.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1707045
 
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WhoWhatNow

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What about a mini desktop? Then just use the HDMI out to your TV? Lowest cost way into a machine with those specs that I can think of. I've seen refurbished ones on Groupon and Woot deals.

I thought about that, but given the way I work I don't think that will work. Between work and activities with my daughter I rarely have time to sit in one place and work on anything that isn't essential. Usually it is a few minutes stolen here and there so a laptop is realistically the only way to go. I am also thinking about a CNC router, which is another reason I want to learn Fusion 360. I still have lots of planning before I do anything so we will see how it shakes out.

Yes, I forgot to add small brass wire brushes. The kind sold for cleaning firearms. Harbor Freight sells a 3 pack of brushes; one brass, one SS, and one nylon brush. Use the brass to clean the nozzle (when it's heated up to temp). I use the SS brush to clean the plastic off the brass brush.

You will absolutely need the brush to clean the nozzle when calibrating and after a failed print if the hot end catches the lower layers or rips them off the print bed as mine did a few times.

Thanks!
 

Steve_mc0

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Brisbane, QLD Australia
Here's a custom designed and printed Busman RTMR auxiliary relay fusebox mount for my Jeep JK Wrangler that puts it right next to the factory box.

3d printed on ASA and took about 13hrs due to the 4layer thick wall depth and 30% infill to give it strength. Came out pretty good I think.fce325b932023be36416bf5cb3a4f8de.jpg

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk
 

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