I needed a couple of those back when I had my Craftsman box! The box has since been sold, but I put up with poor drawer closing detents on a couple of drawers for 15+ years.Couple catches for the drawers on my Craftsman toolbox. Did two slightly different styles found on thingiverse. Printed with ABS.
Where did you order from, only seeing the cool plate option....I just want to say if you don't have a Bambu X1 carbon yet... Order one, it has been awesome. I have a bunch of printers from $100 enders on up to my big $$$$ Raise 3d.
The bambu has run circles around all of them. Speed and quality are on point, it handles engineering filaments just as well as my big boy printers and does it faster. The AMS is just a bonus.
I will say though if you order one, order the textured PEI with it, the "cool plate" needs glue as a release agent and is terribly annoying, I am used to printing on glass or textured pei, no glue needed and everything peels off when cool easily. Seriously don't mess with the cool plate.
I ordered directly from Bambu, I created a separate order for the textured plate.
us.store.bambulab.com
That seems nice. I'll have to try that on my snowblower
Ordering one of those, did not have that option when I bought mine and yes it's annoying to peel stuff off of the cool plate. That's about the only gripe about mine.I ordered directly from Bambu, I created a separate order for the textured plate.
Bambu Dual-Sided Textured PEI Plate（Discountinued）
The Bambu Dual-sided Textured PEI Plate is a flexible magnetic build plate with sprayed dual-sided PEI coating. During printing, the plate will provide excellent adhesion and easy print removal after cooling.
I also have this plate from Amazon because it was here faster than the Bambu direct
So far from my experience is it blows just about everything at and below it's price point out of the water. Even on the fastest speed the print quality is good to fantastic depending on the filament type.
Not to be rude, but you are not. I've been 3d printing for quite some time. This was an addition to my range of printers and I waited until the kickstarter and all the nonsense that goes with a kickstarter was over before buying one.
Quality is on par with my high end printers, there isn't a machine other than possibly a prusa mk3 that can compete under $1k out of the box. I can get better quality with some of the higher end machines but not at the speed of the bambu. I highly expect some of the big players to change their approach to the market now with the bambu x1 widely available.
You can get almost any decent printer to the quality out of a bambu printer. At the end of the day an 0.4mm nozzle melting PLA is an 0.4mm nozzle melting PLA.
My mistake, I thought you were someone else but there are at least two others that bought X1's after my original post and some questions they asked.
I considered trying others but you lose AMS using any other slicer so I'm sticking to the Bambu one. It's built off of Prusa slicer, I know because when opening both apps I get the same warning about one of the dlls they use if that matters any.
It's best to scan the tracing (better yet, the actual object if possible) using a printer/scanner than take a picture of it. Pictures have perspective and camera lens distortion, so it will never be as good as a scan. I do what you're describing in Fusion quite often, just last week as a matter of fact. It's an excellent way of reverse engineering an odd shape.
I pulled a thingiverse file for a fuel can vent cap as mine were cracking out. Worked good. I was able to put an o-ring in the cap to seal around the shoulder of the vent nub.
Looking at McMaster Carr the tolerance for the 1/4" thk Acrylic sheets they sell is +/-0.040" https://www.mcmaster.com/8536K164/ so I say it is normal.
Just this one. The skin is nominally 1/4", but there's quite a lot of variance in panel thickness, depending on manufacturer and date of manufacture.
That's pretty typical for acrylic sheet. If you go on McMaster-Carr and look at their Acrylic sheet selection, you'll see +/-0.059" tolerances on a several of their offerings. Several of the offerings also have asymmetrical tolerances, with more tolerance allocated on the thin side which would be desirable if you need to make sure the panel will slide into a groove.
I'm happy with how it printed, although I made a couple goofs:The current firmware on the E3 has a "change filament" setting in the menu. Just push the "purge more" option in that menu after changing out the filament until you get the color you installed.That's pretty typical for acrylic sheet. If you go on McMaster-Carr and look at their Acrylic sheet selection, you'll see +/-0.059" tolerances on a several of their offerings. Several of the offerings also have asymmetrical tolerances, with more tolerance allocated on the thin side which would be desirable if you need to make sure the panel will slide into a groove.
I printed my largest part so far on my Ender-3 Max. Last summer I mounted my old double-din stereo to the cabin ceiling in our boat. 100% functional, but I never fab'd an enclosure for it to make it look finished and to prevent hitting your head on a sharp sheet-metal corner. An hour of modelling and about 24hrs of printing later I now have an enclosure, complete with vent-holes and countersunk screw holes for mounting
Overall still very happy with the quality given that I have done any ustep calibrations whatsoever. Before buying I read about some minor binding in the z-axis leadscrews causing banding, which I noticed early on but faded as I got more hours of runtime. The upper half of this print (where I've never ran the machine before) shows some banding again, so I thing my first area of tuning is going to be to put my dial indicator on the z-axis and see if I can't find where the binding is occurring and try to smooth it out a bit.
- I added large 0.5" radius edge blends to the outside to make it less painful to bump into, and I didn't realize that while doing so, I moved one edge of the rectangular opening about 1mm back from the face of the enclosure, which created a really long unsupported bridged section when I oriented it for printing. I should have realize I goofed when I saw the brim passes curve under the part as you see in the first image. Doh! Some sagging in that area and a few loose layers, but it's usable.
- I was running black filament before this job and apparently didn't purged it enough because I ended up with one grey streak on the first layer (the primary cosmetic face) about 5" long. The brim passes looked clean, so I guess there was some residue in the nozzle that took a while to move out. A little sanding and some Krylon Fusion and it should be perfectly fine for my needs. Any tips for how long to purge between color changes? Or is it best practice just to change the nozzle to be sure?
