Between 265 & 485 SQ/FT The "Glendora Garage"

[Dan in Pasadena]

Spent most of the day working on the front lawn. Used "Grandpa's Weeder" to pull oxalis that keeps popping up in our front lawn.
It works great IF the center of the weed obvious but otherwise I'm on my knees you finger-rake through the foliage to find the center root. Quite a few "misses".

After that, I mowed the lawn, wet it and spread the remaining Scott's "Weed 'n Feed" I had from last summer. It was only enough for half the lawn, uh oh. So on the other side of the front walk I used leftover Scott's that doesn't have herbicide so it had to be watered-in. BUT, it was old and "clumpy" so I had to crush the lumps by hand and broadcast by hand. I'll apply more of probably the Weed 'n Feed in a month.

 

[georgiadave]

Spent most of the day working on the front lawn. Used "Grandpa's Weeder" to pull oxalis that keeps popping up in our front lawn.
It works great IF the center of the weed obvious but otherwise I'm on my knees you finger-rake through the foliage to find the center root. Quite a few "misses".

After that, I mowed the lawn, wet it and spread the remaining Scott's "Weed 'n Feed" I had from last summer. It was only enough for half the lawn, uh oh. So on the other side of the front walk I used leftover Scott's that doesn't have herbicide so it had to be watered-in. BUT, it was old and "clumpy" so I had to crush the lumps by hand and broadcast by hand. I'll apply more of probably the Weed 'n Feed in a month.

 

[georgiadave]

I have found the liquid weed and feed to be easier, as the granular stuff is just supposed to cling to wet grass. That is hit or miss that the liquid does not have.

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

I didn't even know there is such a thing as a liquid weed 'n feed. But I'll need to reapply in a month or so.

 

[PugetDude]

I have found the liquid weed and feed to be easier, as the granular stuff is just supposed to cling to wet grass. That is hit or miss that the liquid does not have.

I didn't even know there is such a thing as a liquid weed 'n feed. But I'll need to reapply in a month or so.

Just like shampoo- apply, rinse, and repeat.

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

Just like shampoo- apply, rinse, and repeat.

Know what brand name it goes by?
I assume it doesn't kill cool season grasses but probably does warm season ones.

 

[rharman]

@Dan in Pasadena - Amazon or Home Depot....

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

Excellent, thank you! Scotts granular is what I had leftover from last year. Maybe the "Weed & Feed" name is theirs?

 

[M.Brane]

I've had good results with the spray Weed & Feed. It takes a while, but it gets all the broadleaf pests.

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

I've had good results with the spray Weed & Feed. It takes a while, but it gets all the broadleaf pests.

Thanks. I have very few dandelions or other broadleafs weeds and I suppose they will always be a problem because my immediate neighbor's "lawn" is loaded with them.

Mainly I want to get rid of the oxalis. They come back because they have rhizomes and spread from there. I'll have to read the Weed & Feed label to see if it works on them.

EDIT:
Found this on Chat GPT:

"Yes, Scotts Weed & Feed can help control oxalis, but its effectiveness depends on the specific formulation. Scotts Weed & Feed products contain 2,4-D and MCPP, which are broadleaf herbicides effective against oxalis and other common lawn weeds.

However, oxalis can be stubborn due to its ability to spread via seeds and underground rhizomes. For better results:

• Use a specialized weed killer: Scotts Turf Builder Weed & Feed or Scotts Halts Crabgrass & Grassy Weed Preventer can help, but for severe oxalis infestations, a targeted herbicide like Ortho Weed B Gon or Tenacitymay work better."

So it's good I used the remaining Turf Builder Weed & Feed on half.

 

[kaymccampbell]

Mainly I want to get rid of the oxalis. They come back because they have rhizomes and spread from there.

Good to know. I have hundreds of them. I love the flowers. Funny isn't it? What one considers weeds, another encourages.

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

Good to know. I have hundreds of them. I love the flowers. Funny isn't it? What one considers weeds, another encourages.

(Big shoulder shrug)...Well, if YOU like them.....more power to you.I guess I could see if the ground was entirely covered by oxalis at least it would be somewhat consistent.

Strokes/folks, Chocolate & Vanilla...Strawberry too!

 

[rharman]

(Big shoulder shrug)...Well, if YOU like them.....more power to you.I guess I could see if the ground was entirely covered by oxalis at least it would be somewhat consistent.

Strokes/folks, Chocolate & Vanilla...Strawberry too!

The correct answer is.... Rocky Road!

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

The correct answer is.... Rocky Road!

Rhetorically, we walk that road all our lives!

 

[PugetDude]

Rhetorically, we walk that road all our lives!

Some stumble...

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

Some stumble...

ALL of us here and there.

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

ALL of us here and there.

Yeah Bob, we are talking about rhetorical or emotional stumbles here and there. But in your case though it is your physical stumble that could have (and likely would have for most people but did not; it appears) define the rest of your life. Simply amazing.

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

Finally did something garage related today: Changed battery in my 2021 Silverado.

It was working perfectly but truck had thrown a CEL and dealer serve writer said it was an EBTCM - brake control module. The bumper-to-bumper warranty expired before I bought the truck They said it MIGHT be from a battery issue and since I had the original battery changing it was a low cost option rather than $3000 for this module.

Service writer advised NOT to have them do it - $700! but if I had AAA they would install a new one free (well, kinda). BUT also to stand over them because the battery is mounted under the huge plastic fuse block and if they crack it it's $1100.

So....I got an Interstate AGM battery from Costco and did it myself. A PITA because this battery is easily the HEAVIEST battery I've ever dealt with and the truck height made me have to stand on a platform to remove it.

Yeah, it's under that plastic conglomeration which has the positive battery clamp incorporated into it. A BUNCH of schit in the way to lift it out too. Would have been very easy to crack that plastic thing.

 

[M.Brane]

Engineers run amok!

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

Engineers run amok!

Yeah more or less. They were squeezing a lot into a small place. The same reason (I hear) they designed the Duramax 3.0 diesel with the timing belt at the BACK of the engine!

Changing it is required at 150,000 miles on my era engine, later upped to 200,000. By doing this it somehow made more room in the engine compartment BUT it requires the engine be removed from the truck to change. So it’s pretty pricey.

EDIT:
Could be worse. The same body truck in the 2500 and 3500 w/6.6 Duramax they pull the cab off to get the engine out for belt service! Yikes. I had a 2008 3500HD crew dually 4x4, and later a 2014 2500HD GMC Denali crewcab and none of that was required for them. I guess the engine compartment size is smaller enough that fewer man-hours are required to do the job....and probably a lot less aggravation by pulling the cab. Hard to imagine.

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

Duplicate from another thread:

Used the last of my Roundup on nut sedge that's all over our flower borders and getting worse. It is NOT effective. It yellows tops but doesn't eradicate it. It's also in our lawn though it blends in there so I don't know if it's 10% or 90% of the lawn. Never had this weed in Pasadena.

I researched and found out this weed connects to the next underground and when you disturb the soil pulling them it just spreads more! The strongest herbicides for it are called SedgeHammer, Certainty and Dismiss all used with a surfactant. All are ******** and COST A LOT for very little. Yikes.

I bought the Certainty because Amazon won't ship Dismiss to me and SedgeHammer had mixed reviews. It'll arrive today. Also bought surfactant and I'll put blue marker dye in it and I'm even considering applying to to the lawn - though I may come to regret that if it turns out to be a significant percentage of the lawn! Wish me luck.

 

[PugetDude]

Duplicate from another thread:

Used the last of my Roundup on nut sedge that's all over our flower borders and getting worse. It is NOT effective. It yellows tops but doesn't eradicate it. It's also in our lawn though it blends in there so I don't know if it's 10% or 90% of the lawn. Never had this weed in Pasadena.

I researched and found out this weed connects to the next underground and when you disturb the soil pulling them it just spreads more! The strongest herbicides for it are called SedgeHammer, Certainty and Dismiss all used with a surfactant. All are ******** and COST A LOT for very little. Yikes.

I bought the Certainty because Amazon won't ship Dismiss to me and SedgeHammer had mixed reviews. It'll arrive today. Also bought surfactant and I'll put blue marker dye in it and I'm even considering applying to to the lawn - though I may come to regret that if it turns out to be a significant percentage of the lawn! Wish me luck.

Agent Orange and 3/4-minus gravel for the win...

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

Agent Orange and 3/4-minus gravel for the win...

It’s gonna be a battle royal to get control. Total eradication is probably impossible but anything to get it out of the borders.

When we moved in 5 years ago if I’d known how relentless this stuff was I’d have done it then with dramatically better results I’m sure. Also there was about an 8x8 area that was some kind of very course aggressive grass. Maybe Johnson grass though I’m not sure what that looks like. I didn’t kill it then because I didn’t want a big bare spot. BAD decision. Now it’s a lot bigger. Maybe(?) this stuff will kill it.

I’ve always wanted a beautiful fescue or Kentucky by blue type grass lawn and I’m taking it on as a challenge. What else have I got to worry about in my old age?!!

 

[PugetDude]

What else have I got to worry about in my old age?!!

Shall we start compiling a list?

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

Go ahead....I won't remember anyway!

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

The "Certainty" herbicide from post #2106 above didn't arrive - my mistake, it'll be next week.

I did a heavy prune of the hedge next to our gazebo/BBQ area. I'd put a narrow sloped roof over the area to protect some electronics under the BBQ counter (didn't work!) but it made shearing that hedge impossible.

Decided to remove that roof and bring the hedge down a couple feet but that created a huge brush pile to fit into limited yard trash space. I used the new power pruner to cut it all into a million pieces.

Max, my mini terrorist (to others) is hyper devoted so has HAS TO be underfoot at all times. He's a 2x rescue dog and we're pretty sure the little guy never had human affection. We dote on him and our other pup, Fifi and they are very affectionate in return.

Here's the before, after, big brush pile & Max supervising.


I'll build a wider roof over the now-lowered hedge that will hopefully protect electronics better.

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

Spent yesterday buying, cutting & painting lumber for the BBQ "side roof". Assembled it this morning, with difficulty I moved it from garage into backyard and semi into position. BUT (there's always but, huh?) We may have made it too wide. We don't want rain runoff to fall into neighbor's yard. I also may need to remove the hedge in that area entirely - yet to be decided.

I got it as far as the position in the photo but it's too unwieldy to muscle up and support into position without help. Preferably by two more guys! I'll get my neighbor to help tomorrow.

 

[kaymccampbell]

If it's to long, you could always put a gutter on it and let the downspout dribble onto that pile of bricks

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

If it's to long, you could always put a gutter on it and let the downspout dribble onto that pile of bricks

Excellent suggestion though my neighbor (who is kind of a ...Richard...) might object to it hanging over his side yard. It's literally a 5 or 6 ft wide side yard but he might.

Another thought (so I don't have to take it back to garage, disassemble, narrow it, reassemble, etc) is to hang it via hooks on the gazebo beam and large eyelets on this roof. That way we'd be able to angle more sharply downward. That would work we'd just have to remove that hedge for sure. I wouldn't mind doing that, though SWMBO might and it's probably the easiest fix (for my stupidity in measuring!).

I'm on GJ because I like working around my house but obviously, I'm not all that good at it, ha ha

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

On a different subject, I posted THIS on an older thread about plastic repair:

I searched for "Plastic Repairs" and plastic "welders" came up. I was hoping to find info/advice on Super Glue + baking soda repairs. I have a Keter folding work table leg that broke. The legs are aluminum but slide into a plastic sleeve that mounts and is the pivot on the table. The plastic broke RIGHT AT the joint between sleeve and pivot portion.

But metal + plastic weld fixes look superior to an epoxy or a cyanoacrylate/baking soda fix. Any experiences to relate? Here's a close up picture of the break and the type of work table this is part of.

As you can see see, the fit is tight. Almost unnoticeable when I hold the parts together. I'm thinking maybe use super glue or two part epoxy between the two parts, then after it dries plastic weld the joint with metal mesh or staples to reinforce the repaired joint.

 

[PugetDude]

Dan, I think that 3M 5200, backed up with a mechanical connection might be your best bet. It's the toughest plastic adhesive I have ever used, got some on the soles of my work boots 9 years ago and it's still hanging in there.
I would look at a pinned or bolted reinforcement, or a piece of all thread embedded in 5200.
Good luck, post pics of the repair.

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

Dan, I think that 3M 5200, backed up with a mechanical connection might be your best bet. It's the toughest plastic adhesive I have ever used, got some on the soles of my work boots 9 years ago and it's still hanging in there.
I would look at a pinned or bolted reinforcement, or a piece of all thread embedded in 5200.
Good luck, post pics of the repair.

NOW you tell me! Ha ha.

I JUST epoxied this a few hours ago prepping for the plastic welding. Then the plastic weld kit arrived. For $30 it came with a lot including a bunch of staples, plastic "weld rod", mesh, a semi decent pair of side cutters and a razor knife. They even provided replacement latches for the cheapo plastic case! I'm not sure if I'll use the mesh or the staples. I can probably embed staples more deeply. Here's a pic of the kit:

 

[bugnut]

Dan, December of 24 repaired a plastic drawer guide with CA and then after that failed tried epoxy. It too failed. Bought the plastic welder about a month ago. Watched a YT or 2 and became a certified plastic welder. Welded 4 wire staples into the drawer guide, It felt really solid and is holding up so far. ( I have jinxed myself now). It worked like the berries! Good Luck!

repair is here

What did you do "IN" your garage today?

More sanding. I did the leg assemblies yesterday. Chairs are next. Sanding down in to the spaces between boards, I used the oscillating tool with some old adhesive backed 80 grit stuck to a scraper blade. Worked pretty well. But I’m almost out of the roll. I can mail order more, but nobody...

www.garagejournal.com

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

Dan, December of 24 repaired a plastic drawer guide with CA and then after that failed tried epoxy. It too failed. Bought the plastic welder about a month ago. Watched a YT or 2 and became a certified plastic welder. Welded 4 wire staples into the drawer guide, It felt really solid and is holding up so far. ( I have jinxed myself now). It worked like the berries! Good Luck!

repair is here

What did you do "IN" your garage today?

More sanding. I did the leg assemblies yesterday. Chairs are next. Sanding down in to the spaces between boards, I used the oscillating tool with some old adhesive backed 80 grit stuck to a scraper blade. Worked pretty well. But I’m almost out of the roll. I can mail order more, but nobody...

www.garagejournal.com

I REALLY had to restrain myself from doing the plastic welding last night before the JB Clearpoxy had cured…..but I waited.

I’ll do it later today and post a closeup photo of how it came out. Thanks for the encouragement!

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

Refer to the photo in post #2,067 above for "Before"

It was quite a "goat roping" but I wrestled that side roof thing into position all by myself. As you can see it took 3 ladders, 2 ropes, assorted lumber from my leftovers pile but I managed to get it up there without damaging it or letting it fall over to the neighbor's side. Screwed it into the gazebo with 3-1/2" deck screws. I'll be adding knee braces to each end just to take some of the load off the screws.

It just clears the hedge we topped and the rain run off will fall on our side of the block wall.

 

[M.Brane]

Nice! Reminds me of when I had to disconnect the awning from the side of my old garage by myself so I could fix the drip edge/drain rail that the owner mangled for no apparent reason when he installed it. Multiple ladders, wood blocks, and ratchet straps came in handy.

 

[PugetDude]

Refer to the photo in post #2,067 above for "Before"

It was quite a "goat roping" but I wrestled that side roof thing into position all by myself. As you can see it took 3 ladders, 2 ropes, assorted lumber from my leftovers pile but I managed to get it up there without damaging it or letting it fall over to the neighbor's side. Screwed it into the gazebo with 3-1/2" deck screws. I'll be adding knee braces to each end just to take some of the load off the screws.

It just clears the hedge we topped and the rain run off will fall on our side of the block wall.

Nice!
Did you just put it on top of the ladders and scoot the gazebo over to it?

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

Nice!
Did you just put it on top of the ladders and scoot the gazebo over to it?

Almost literally would have been as easy!

My girlfriend has a bad back and mine is just old! I tied one end with the rope thinking I could raise the opposite side and place it on a taller ladder. Then it occurred to me I was going to drop it SOMEHOW (remember I said I'm not all that good at the things I do as anyone who keeps track of my antics already knows!)

So I tied both sides and it's a good thing I did. It was back & forth raise a little use assorted **** to hold it. But I got it there and the last thing was moving the rope out of the way so I could support it into final position with one hand and drive the long *** deck screw with the other one handed. Then the opposite side. Somehow it worked.....til I realized one side was a bit lower and had to unscrew & re-screw, ha ha. A preview of tomorrow's comedy act: Tomorrow I'll cut & install the knee braces.

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

Knee braces are in. A dozen various tools put away. Hedge trimmed a little more orderly. Done. On to the next thing....and the next....and the next.

 

[Zippercat]

And y’all got those posts anchored into the concrete patio, right? Right? Oh….