The Hammer
- Thread starter A_Pmech
- Start date
Stuey
Well-known member
That is a very beautiful hammer! Way too costly for my non-pro-uses, but classy nonetheless.
1320stang
Well-known member
It would cost more, but anodizing the handle prior to knurling would look cool.
I wished I could justify owning one. I think it would make a fine engine assembly hammer.
I wished I could justify owning one. I think it would make a fine engine assembly hammer.
I think even if you don't need or can't justify having one, getting something as rare and well made as this and listing it on ebay, you might be surprised at what someone might be willing to pay. A_P, you might consider selling these on ebay to be honest.. A small side business and it would get you exposure far larger than just a forum.
mjozefow
Well-known member
I'm waiting on a few eBay items to clear Paypal and then we'll be good to go.
Hi Stuey,
Thank you.
I wouldn't say that it's too much hammer for non-pro's, as you can really expand your capabilities with pro-level tools. For a professional mechanic, a new tool that allows him to do his job better and faster actually makes him money. For the non-pro, my hammer is the kind of tool that will be passed on to the next generation. It's an investment in your family's future whether you're a DIY'er or a pro mechanic.
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benjamming
Well-known member
10 characters
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Why an Aluminum Handle?
I've fielded some questions about why I chose to build this hammer with an Aluminum handle, so I felt I should explain.
There are two main reasons for an Aluminum handle:
1) Durability
2) Vibration
This is the 21st century. Wooden handles have been used on carpenter's claw hammers since who knows when. Wood handles are inferior to Aluminum because the wedges and glue holding the wood handle to the head invariably loosen. The result is sometimes a hammer head flying across the room, which never fails to embarrass the hammer's owner. There are no wedges and no glue holding my hammer together, just a permanent shrink fit.
Some tool companies feel the solution is a plastic handle. I say that plastic is no better than the wood handle on a claw hammer. Plastic handles crack and collect dirt just like wooden handles, but they also make it look like something you expect from a toy maker, not a tool maker.
If you study the dynamics of a hammer, you'll find that one of the most important points is locating the balance point of the hammer as close to the head as possible. By doing so, you reduce vibration felt in the handle. Using an aircraft alloy and precise machining, I've built a handle that is lighter than most traditional hickory handles, locating the balance point closer to the head, where the impact occurs.
I've fielded some questions about why I chose to build this hammer with an Aluminum handle, so I felt I should explain.
There are two main reasons for an Aluminum handle:
1) Durability
2) Vibration
This is the 21st century. Wooden handles have been used on carpenter's claw hammers since who knows when. Wood handles are inferior to Aluminum because the wedges and glue holding the wood handle to the head invariably loosen. The result is sometimes a hammer head flying across the room, which never fails to embarrass the hammer's owner. There are no wedges and no glue holding my hammer together, just a permanent shrink fit.
Some tool companies feel the solution is a plastic handle. I say that plastic is no better than the wood handle on a claw hammer. Plastic handles crack and collect dirt just like wooden handles, but they also make it look like something you expect from a toy maker, not a tool maker.
If you study the dynamics of a hammer, you'll find that one of the most important points is locating the balance point of the hammer as close to the head as possible. By doing so, you reduce vibration felt in the handle. Using an aircraft alloy and precise machining, I've built a handle that is lighter than most traditional hickory handles, locating the balance point closer to the head, where the impact occurs.
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I'm sure that 99% of why most hammers have wooden handles is cost... my best and easiest hammer to use is my all titanium (rubber covered handle) Stilleto TiBone... but then it's also a $260 hammer.. but the all metal construction is quite vibration free.
chadster1
Well-known member
I ordered one and I probably own more hammers than anyone else on this forum. 
I ordered one and I probably own more hammers than anyone else on this forum.
Well, I"m up to 8 with this one!
OK guys, orders are coming in. I'm making hammers this week and I'll be as busy as one of Santa's elves. Hammers will begin to ship late this week, so watch your mailboxes!
For those of you who have not yet placed an order, there is still time to put a hammer under your tree for Christmas.
For those of you who have not yet placed an order, there is still time to put a hammer under your tree for Christmas.
chadster1
Well-known member
Well, I"m up to 8 with this one!
I counted 26 on my truck plus probably another 5 or so in my toolbox at home.
VegasBruce
Well-known member
mjozefow
Well-known member
Any idea when there will be other materials available for the heads? Or on the mold? I'll take one minimum... but I really would like a copper or brass face. Maybe I could get one at a later time?
Thanks
Thanks
Hi guys,
Due to the number of requests for Brass faces, I'm ordering some alloy C36000 from a short metals supplier today. I'll be offering Brass faces for sale separately soon! All hammers will still ship with Aluminum, 4130 steel, and Nylon faces.
Brass alloy C36000 has a hardness of approximately 70 Rockwell B, making it a little softer than the 2024 Aluminum faces.
Face molds are coming down the pipe too. They will also be offered separately, so check for updates!
Due to the number of requests for Brass faces, I'm ordering some alloy C36000 from a short metals supplier today. I'll be offering Brass faces for sale separately soon! All hammers will still ship with Aluminum, 4130 steel, and Nylon faces.
Brass alloy C36000 has a hardness of approximately 70 Rockwell B, making it a little softer than the 2024 Aluminum faces.
Face molds are coming down the pipe too. They will also be offered separately, so check for updates!
Sloper0204
Well-known member
PM inbound....
Hi guys,
Just to update...
I'm running a little slower than I expected, but here are some hammer handles! The slug at the left should give you an idea of the amount of machining required.
I'll begin making Brass faces after I have all the current group of orders in the mail. I'll make a post here announcing their availability and they can be ordered at that time.
Just to update...
I'm running a little slower than I expected, but here are some hammer handles! The slug at the left should give you an idea of the amount of machining required.
I'll begin making Brass faces after I have all the current group of orders in the mail. I'll make a post here announcing their availability and they can be ordered at that time.
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gonzoengineer
Well-known member
Beautiful!
I was thinking the same thing about vibration transferring from the impact to your body but if you review Pmech's first post, he states very clearly that this is specifically for delicate/precision use. You won't be (or at least shouldn't be) driving nails in or breaking rotors loose with this bad boy. Get yourself a decent Estwing for that sort of labor.
I hope to get one of these some day, very, very, very nice tool. The brass head will be a nice touch as well.
I was thinking the same thing about vibration transferring from the impact to your body but if you review Pmech's first post, he states very clearly that this is specifically for delicate/precision use. You won't be (or at least shouldn't be) driving nails in or breaking rotors loose with this bad boy. Get yourself a decent Estwing for that sort of labor.
I hope to get one of these some day, very, very, very nice tool. The brass head will be a nice touch as well.
Bmwpower,
The hammer is approximately 12" from the top of the head to the end of the handle. Here's a comparison photo with a Vaughan VB-308 8oz. ball peen:
The handles are though-drilled and lightened so that the hammer is head-heavy as it should be. With one Nylon face and one Aluminum face, the hammer has approximately the same CG location as the Vaughan VB-308 as tested on a knife edge.
The hammer is approximately 12" from the top of the head to the end of the handle. Here's a comparison photo with a Vaughan VB-308 8oz. ball peen:
The handles are though-drilled and lightened so that the hammer is head-heavy as it should be. With one Nylon face and one Aluminum face, the hammer has approximately the same CG location as the Vaughan VB-308 as tested on a knife edge.
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Just another update...
I'll be heading down to the industrial gas distributor in the morning to pick up Liquid Nitrogen for shrink fitting the handles into the hammer heads.
Also,
I forgot to add this photo earlier. My hammer helping make your hammers:
I'll be heading down to the industrial gas distributor in the morning to pick up Liquid Nitrogen for shrink fitting the handles into the hammer heads.
Also,
I forgot to add this photo earlier. My hammer helping make your hammers:
mkdive
Well-known member
It's going to be mighty cold around here for the next few days and I don't mean the weather...
This is what it takes to get a big handle into a small hole. When the handle and head warm up again, it will take approximately 15 tons to pull them apart. That doesn't include the two 7/16" set screws that engage the handle in addition to the FN-5 shrink fit.
I don't like things coming apart...
This is what it takes to get a big handle into a small hole. When the handle and head warm up again, it will take approximately 15 tons to pull them apart. That doesn't include the two 7/16" set screws that engage the handle in addition to the FN-5 shrink fit.
I don't like things coming apart...
That looks interesting... How does the process work? Is it dipped or blown onto the handle to cool it down?
It's going to be mighty cold around here for the next few days and I don't mean the weather...
This is what it takes to get a big handle into a small hole. When the handle and head warm up again, it will take approximately 15 tons to pull them apart. That doesn't include the two 7/16" set screws that engage the handle in addition to the FN-5 shrink fit.
I don't like things coming apart...
woody 73
Well-known member
I never met a hammer that I did not like...Great job a very nice hammer!
allessence
Member
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2009
- Messages
- 18
As always outstanding. I have an older Lyman precision gunsmiths hammer and it's not nearly as nice as the one you machined up, nearly the same size though.
Nice job.
My lightest hammer is 6 Oz, and my largest is 20lbs. Always wanted and old timer 30 pounder, but have only seen these in a catalog.
Of course now I wouldn't want to swing it. Ah to be young again.
Will the handles have to be pressed in or will then slip in?
Nice job.
My lightest hammer is 6 Oz, and my largest is 20lbs. Always wanted and old timer 30 pounder, but have only seen these in a catalog.
Of course now I wouldn't want to swing it. Ah to be young again.
Will the handles have to be pressed in or will then slip in?
Hi guys,
Another update!
Turning hammer head blanks:
Finished blanks cut off and faced:
Blanks tapped and end ground ready for boring and deburring. To ensure the faces seat firmly, each hammer head face is ground slightly concave, so that the face tends to seat on the outer perimeter of the head.
I'll explain how fitting the handles works shortly, when I've had a chance to document it.
Stay tuned!
Another update!
Turning hammer head blanks:
Finished blanks cut off and faced:
Blanks tapped and end ground ready for boring and deburring. To ensure the faces seat firmly, each hammer head face is ground slightly concave, so that the face tends to seat on the outer perimeter of the head.
I'll explain how fitting the handles works shortly, when I've had a chance to document it.
Stay tuned!
Brr! I'm still cold!
This afternoon I bored and shrink fit most of the handles to the heads.
It all began with this 667lb dewar of LN2 I picked up last week:
I also need a vacuum-jacketed transfer hose and a phase separator. The phase separator is a chunk of sintered stainless steel, not unlike the "air rocks" used in an aquarium. The purpose of the phase separator is to slow down the liquid nitrogen as it exits the hose. Until the hose has cooled down, the nitrogen boils rapidly and violently within the hose, presenting a splash hazard.
Using the best cryogenic container there is, a Wal Mart cooler, I released some LN2. Styrofoam is a great choice as it does not readily shatter and has some level of insulating properties, unlike Pyrex, or metal. It also has a very low specific heat, which means less LN2 is boiled off bringing the holding container down to temperature.
Each handle was then soaked in LN2 until the envelope of boiling Nitrogen ceases. This indicates that the handle is now at the boiling point of the LN2, -310F
At this point, the handle's outside diameter has shrunk by .0028". The handle is removed from the LN2 and quickly placed into it's head before it has a chance to warm up. The result is a shrink fit, which retains the head on the handle independent of the set screws.
Here are a few hammers, warming up to room temperature:
I suspect I may be the only person who builds machinist's hammers in this fashion. The shrink fit alone is sufficient to hold the hammers together, as are the set screws. I'm just a belt and suspenders guy and I believe it's one of those little things that defines quality construction.
Tomorrow, time permitting, I'll make a video of assembling a hammer using LN2.
This afternoon I bored and shrink fit most of the handles to the heads.
It all began with this 667lb dewar of LN2 I picked up last week:
I also need a vacuum-jacketed transfer hose and a phase separator. The phase separator is a chunk of sintered stainless steel, not unlike the "air rocks" used in an aquarium. The purpose of the phase separator is to slow down the liquid nitrogen as it exits the hose. Until the hose has cooled down, the nitrogen boils rapidly and violently within the hose, presenting a splash hazard.
Using the best cryogenic container there is, a Wal Mart cooler, I released some LN2. Styrofoam is a great choice as it does not readily shatter and has some level of insulating properties, unlike Pyrex, or metal. It also has a very low specific heat, which means less LN2 is boiled off bringing the holding container down to temperature.
Each handle was then soaked in LN2 until the envelope of boiling Nitrogen ceases. This indicates that the handle is now at the boiling point of the LN2, -310F
At this point, the handle's outside diameter has shrunk by .0028". The handle is removed from the LN2 and quickly placed into it's head before it has a chance to warm up. The result is a shrink fit, which retains the head on the handle independent of the set screws.
Here are a few hammers, warming up to room temperature:
I suspect I may be the only person who builds machinist's hammers in this fashion. The shrink fit alone is sufficient to hold the hammers together, as are the set screws. I'm just a belt and suspenders guy and I believe it's one of those little things that defines quality construction.
Tomorrow, time permitting, I'll make a video of assembling a hammer using LN2.
It's like a new car. After the first scratch it isn't so bad...
These hammers won't be marked.
Later hammers may have some kind of marking(s).
These hammers won't be marked.
Later hammers may have some kind of marking(s).
allessence
Member
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2009
- Messages
- 18
That is really neat.
How much pressure do you figure is holding the handle once it expands again?
What is the likely hood that you would shatter a handle from Cold short properties in the handles?
How much pressure do you figure is holding the handle once it expands again?
What is the likely hood that you would shatter a handle from Cold short properties in the handles?