Pinemarten
Well-known member
Above M10, you want to use the Icon semi-deep sockets.
The Harbor Freight PASS/FAIL Thread...
- Thread starter Bolster
- Start date
Above M10, you want to use the Icon semi-deep sockets.
Ton ton
Well-known member
Thank you!
Ton ton
Well-known member
Starting the bolt on an engine mount on a VW. It was easier with a bare socket, no ratchet or impact socket.
If you are trying to start threads using a power tool you will eventually encounter problems. When I worked in the engine room on a lake freighter the Chief Engineer warned everyone that cycled through his department that if he saw you starting threads with an impact it was grounds for dismissal.
Why are you not starting it by hand, with your fingers on the head?
I picked one up recently when they were $50 for ITC, and wound up grabbing a M18 2888 that was an amazing deal also. I've decided to keep both and make the Hercules a dedicated cutting-wheel rig and use the adjustable speed, cord-free Milwaukee as a jack-of all trades. I haven't had a chance to use the Hercules yet, so good to know.Needed a heavier angle grinder so went for this model paid $80 a while back. Never used one much before.
Using it almost new yesterday, Had a diamond cup, grinding pretty hard on some concrete edges. the head started getting pretty hot. WTF! a little research showed most all angle grinders get more than a little warm in the head, with heavy use.Used it about an hour non stop today. The head got a little less hot nothing special.
It's a real ripper. Pass.
13 Amp 4-1/2 in. to 6 in. Trigger Grip Angle Grinder
Amazing deals on this 4-1/2In 13Amp Angle Grinder at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.www.harborfreight.com
619DioFan
Well-known member
Looks great. My sense of balance along with my OCD would force me to add a locker to the other end ( whether I needed it or not )
Series 2 72 inch top and bottom. Had since the series two came out. PASS big time. Locker is a pass also
Ton ton
Well-known member
It's easier with a bare socket. Because it's tight clearance and my hands are big and clumsy.
atch
Well-known member
Based on the opening premise this might be considered a fail, but I'm going to give it a pass. You'll understand why in a minute.
I don't have the part number and I don't even know if they still sell these. I've had these for several years.
The "rules" as stated say"
1) If you have to fix it before it works, it's an automatic FAIL.
I didn't have to fix it before it was usable. In fact I used these many times before they "failed." You'll notice the bolts through the pivot point. Originally these had plastic pins which eventually broke. However, after replacing them with steel bolts they have worked flawlessly for a long time and I expect them to keep on working for a long time. I used them just yesterday, which prompted me to snap a pic and post here.
I don't have the part number and I don't even know if they still sell these. I've had these for several years.
The "rules" as stated say"
1) If you have to fix it before it works, it's an automatic FAIL.
I didn't have to fix it before it was usable. In fact I used these many times before they "failed." You'll notice the bolts through the pivot point. Originally these had plastic pins which eventually broke. However, after replacing them with steel bolts they have worked flawlessly for a long time and I expect them to keep on working for a long time. I used them just yesterday, which prompted me to snap a pic and post here.
Loose Ctrl
Well-known member
PASS
Storehouse zip tie gun SKU: 57965
www.harborfreight.com
I used it to set over 200 zip ties building a pet cage like this one.
Storehouse zip tie gun SKU: 57965
Cable Tie Gun
Amazing deals on this Cable Tie Gun at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com
I used it to set over 200 zip ties building a pet cage like this one.
Can't find if I already posted this but here goes again, since recent more in-depth use.
Like the HF ratchet wrenches, but didn't use them a whole lot. Ex wife borrowed the 1/2" and I didn't want the hassle of demanding it back, plus I have not been using SAE much.
Enter old Ford tractor where seeming everything is 1/2" and in tight spaces. I thought about just buying a whole other HF set (just for the 1/2") , but saw they had the flex head set, so I thought I'd give them a try, especially now having 1/2.
They are actually pretty sweet and I find myself using them in place of a socket very often. Just flip the head 90 degrees (or less) and twist with the finders much faster, especially in tight places.
Might be a new favorite - PASS
www.harborfreight.com
Like the HF ratchet wrenches, but didn't use them a whole lot. Ex wife borrowed the 1/2" and I didn't want the hassle of demanding it back, plus I have not been using SAE much.
Enter old Ford tractor where seeming everything is 1/2" and in tight spaces. I thought about just buying a whole other HF set (just for the 1/2") , but saw they had the flex head set, so I thought I'd give them a try, especially now having 1/2.
They are actually pretty sweet and I find myself using them in place of a socket very often. Just flip the head 90 degrees (or less) and twist with the finders much faster, especially in tight places.
Might be a new favorite - PASS
Flex-Head SAE Ratcheting Combination Wrench Set, 5 Piece
Amazing deals on this 5Pc Sae Flex-Head Combo Ratcheting Wrench at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com
I’ve had one for several years and have no complaints. A definite PASSHas anyone used this oil extractor? I just bought one, so I'll provide feedback after I get to use it. I couldn't find any of the plastic ones that were big enough.
Snapped-off
Well-known member
driftpin
Well-known member
How can ya beat using HFT's own shekels? I bought the Vulcan Omnipro 220 multi-process welder, the spool gun for welding aluminum, a TIG torch, a cart, and a foot pedal. I didn't use it for awhile after buying it, but recently have set it up and have had it used on frame welding on a project car, I had an experienced welder doing it instead of trying it myself. The LCD screen helps to set the machine up. It tells you:
The work was easily accomplished, no waiting for the machine to cool-down, no popping the circuit breaker (all work done on 240V) no machine shut-down because of exceeding the duty cycle. When he was done, he said, "the machine worked very-well. I didn't think Harbor Freight welders were very-good, but I have no issues with the way this worked."
See for yourself.
My remark about 'using HFT's money/shekels?' I filed for the Harbor Freight class-action lawsuit settlement, and got two gift certificates/store credit which I used to partially-pay for the welder and accessories. I waited until it went on sale, and bought. The current price, no coupons is about 230% more than I paid for my multi-process welder, so yeah, I used 'their money.'
- what gas to use
- what cables to use
- where to attach the cables
- the wire feed speed
- The thickness of materials
- the type of metal being worked
- the voltage to set (besides 120/240V)
The work was easily accomplished, no waiting for the machine to cool-down, no popping the circuit breaker (all work done on 240V) no machine shut-down because of exceeding the duty cycle. When he was done, he said, "the machine worked very-well. I didn't think Harbor Freight welders were very-good, but I have no issues with the way this worked."
See for yourself.
My remark about 'using HFT's money/shekels?' I filed for the Harbor Freight class-action lawsuit settlement, and got two gift certificates/store credit which I used to partially-pay for the welder and accessories. I waited until it went on sale, and bought. The current price, no coupons is about 230% more than I paid for my multi-process welder, so yeah, I used 'their money.'
PA$$!
bmdubya1198
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 30, 2021
- Messages
- 56
These carts are a pass. I've had my orange one for about a year and it's my go-to in my shop.The US General 1-drawer service cart is definitely a pass. Simple to assemble and sturdy. Easy to maneuver with swiveling wheels with one set of locking wheels. $99 with ITC. New color slate grey has black handles
emeraldcoupe
Well-known member
I've had a set of those for a few years, they're holding up just fineCan't find if I already posted this but here goes again, since recent more in-depth use.
Like the HF ratchet wrenches, but didn't use them a whole lot. Ex wife borrowed the 1/2" and I didn't want the hassle of demanding it back, plus I have not been using SAE much.
Enter old Ford tractor where seeming everything is 1/2" and in tight spaces. I thought about just buying a whole other HF set (just for the 1/2") , but saw they had the flex head set, so I thought I'd give them a try, especially now having 1/2.
They are actually pretty sweet and I find myself using them in place of a socket very often. Just flip the head 90 degrees (or less) and twist with the finders much faster, especially in tight places.
Might be a new favorite - PASS
Flex-Head SAE Ratcheting Combination Wrench Set, 5 Piece
Amazing deals on this 5Pc Sae Flex-Head Combo Ratcheting Wrench at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
emeraldcoupe
Well-known member
Hercules porta band blades HA279-C4418 and HA279-C24. Bought them to use in my DeWalt portaband. USA made. Don't have a ton of time on them, but they cut nice and after going through exhaust tubing, it hasn't lost any teeth and is still sharp (18 tpi). $15.99 for a two pack
Preliminary pass
Preliminary pass
bulletpruf
Well-known member
PASS: 5500 pound Badlands electric winch! I also shot a video of it -
Ton ton
Well-known member
Wow, it's a little difficult to find USA made stuff @ harbor freight.Hercules porta band blades HA279-C4418 and HA279-C24. Bought them to use in my DeWalt portaband. USA made. Don't have a ton of time on them, but they cut nice and after going through exhaust tubing, it hasn't lost any teeth and is still sharp (18 tpi). $15.99 for a two pack
Preliminary pass
driftpin
Well-known member
The 'old' welding table. They have a new one, more $ which has holes for fab. jigs. This one has done what I needed it to, and it folds flat for storage, meeting my needs in that my 2-car garage is tight on space.
I'd post a pic, but the forum doesn't seem to accept images today, after trying several ways to get them to load.
My first 'hot work' on the table as a novice. I used the table to ground the workpiece, and the old bedframe steel was able to make sufficient conductivity to allow the MIG process.
I'd post a pic, but the forum doesn't seem to accept images today, after trying several ways to get them to load.
My first 'hot work' on the table as a novice. I used the table to ground the workpiece, and the old bedframe steel was able to make sufficient conductivity to allow the MIG process.
Last edited:
bmdubya1198
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 30, 2021
- Messages
- 56
HF has been adding more and more USA made items lately. It's nice to see! For example I think they have a pair of Doyle wire strippers, and some Icon strippers and snap ring pliers as well.
Ton ton
Well-known member
Thank you very much! I don't get into harbor freight very often.
That's a good option. Just a hair more expensive on a price per blade basis than a 3 pack of Milwaukee from home depot. That said, I don't go though them quickly enough that a 3 pack is necessary. I would rather keep more blade options around with fewer of them.Hercules porta band blades HA279-C4418 and HA279-C24. Bought them to use in my DeWalt portaband. USA made. Don't have a ton of time on them, but they cut nice and after going through exhaust tubing, it hasn't lost any teeth and is still sharp (18 tpi). $15.99 for a two pack
Preliminary pass
Over the last several years they've added more and more. People still grump at them for it.
mark-NJ
Well-known member
OK....here we go, down the rabbit hole. I read a ton of reviews, watched a bunch of videos on youtube, and against all better judgment...including my own...I did it anyway. I bought the HF tube notcher.
TLDR version: PASS....with caveats. Lots of caveats.
Where do I begin?
Everything you've read or heard is true: This is NOT a precision machine, and is NOT going to make rollcage-perfect notches. That said, let's not overlook two essential ingredients:
1.) It's a $60 notcher....not $600 (or more) notcher.
2.) If you're buying a notcher, you either a.) have extremely-odd proclivities that border on unhealthy fetishes, or b.) you're a fabricator / welder. For the sake of GJ decorum, Let's assume the latter...please!
Bluntly, does this cut notches, right out of the (cosmoline-soaked) box? Yes. Inaccurate, off-center, sloppy notches, to be sure...but notches nevertheless. But since you're a fabricator / welder / tool tinkerer, there's hope! Modifying this to work in a reasonably accurate manner is doable. And I modified mine greatly.
I am not going to go into all of my mods, as that's beyond the scope of this thread. But issue #1 is that the pivot bolt in the backplate has two fatal flaws: 1.) it ought not be a bolt/nut anyway because the back-and-forth turning of the plate will...in time...loosen the nut (and since the hole is so excessively large & sloppy, accuracy is lost), and 2.) the freakin' hole is mis-located to begin with! So I TIG-filled the pivot hole, drilled a new one in in the right spot, TIG welded in a threaded stud, and re-affixed the plate with a nylon stop-nut. Fixed. (this is one of the reasons the protractor is so inaccurate) Pivoting is now accurate & repeatable...and congruent with the protractor (that I had to remove & reposition).
Next, the clamp Vs are not welded in place square to the clamp plate. So do NOT square the plate to the drill...mount some stock and square the material to the drill. Amazing.
The threaded adapter for the spindle (so larger holesaws can be used) was internally threaded non-concentrically, so the holesaw had a dizzying elliptical orbit. Thrilling to watch, but don't try drilling! A DeWalt replacement was bought at the local hardware store.
To keep the bronze bushings from falling out, there's a dinky retaining screw in the face of the spindle rack. If, when done notching, you pull your drill back al the way, the adapter nut in the holesaw will lockup against that screwhead and the reverse torque of your drill will just about break your wrist. Ask me how I know...
(I intend to replace the spindle rack altogether with something using ball bearings)
People complain that the washers on the bolts that hold the clamp plate in place are thin and distort into the slot. True. Heavier washers are a fast way out, but I fabricated a backplate that slides congruently with the clamp plate. Easy.
The spindle does NOT meet the stock on the stock's centerline. I've read reviews saying the spindle is too low while others say it's too high. Being made of the finest-grade chineseum available, harvested exclusively from the western slopes of the andolusian mountains...and with a level of QC attention never before seen, I can say absolutely with certainty that my spindle was exactly......too low. A 3/32" stainless steel shim under the spindle rack fixed that, and now it's dead on the CL of the stock to be notched.
So what's the verdict? Your mileage may vary, but if you go into this with your eyes wide open, it's a PASS, with the clear & present caveat that, if you do some mod work, you'll have a notcher that actually works.
Some would say that "I shouldn't have to do all THAT to make it work", and you're not wrong at all. But we're tool guys, right? Screwing around on little side projects is fun, no? Again, YMMV, and if you need to be making money notching tube right from the start, then just spend the big bucks, buy a good one and forget you read this. But for guys like me that need to notch 5 times a year (maybe), this can be a functional tool *IF* you put the time into tweaking it.
That's my story and I'm sticking to it. Thanks for reading.
TLDR version: PASS....with caveats. Lots of caveats.
Where do I begin?
Everything you've read or heard is true: This is NOT a precision machine, and is NOT going to make rollcage-perfect notches. That said, let's not overlook two essential ingredients:
1.) It's a $60 notcher....not $600 (or more) notcher.
2.) If you're buying a notcher, you either a.) have extremely-odd proclivities that border on unhealthy fetishes, or b.) you're a fabricator / welder. For the sake of GJ decorum, Let's assume the latter...please!
Bluntly, does this cut notches, right out of the (cosmoline-soaked) box? Yes. Inaccurate, off-center, sloppy notches, to be sure...but notches nevertheless. But since you're a fabricator / welder / tool tinkerer, there's hope! Modifying this to work in a reasonably accurate manner is doable. And I modified mine greatly.
I am not going to go into all of my mods, as that's beyond the scope of this thread. But issue #1 is that the pivot bolt in the backplate has two fatal flaws: 1.) it ought not be a bolt/nut anyway because the back-and-forth turning of the plate will...in time...loosen the nut (and since the hole is so excessively large & sloppy, accuracy is lost), and 2.) the freakin' hole is mis-located to begin with! So I TIG-filled the pivot hole, drilled a new one in in the right spot, TIG welded in a threaded stud, and re-affixed the plate with a nylon stop-nut. Fixed. (this is one of the reasons the protractor is so inaccurate) Pivoting is now accurate & repeatable...and congruent with the protractor (that I had to remove & reposition).
Next, the clamp Vs are not welded in place square to the clamp plate. So do NOT square the plate to the drill...mount some stock and square the material to the drill. Amazing.
The threaded adapter for the spindle (so larger holesaws can be used) was internally threaded non-concentrically, so the holesaw had a dizzying elliptical orbit. Thrilling to watch, but don't try drilling! A DeWalt replacement was bought at the local hardware store.
To keep the bronze bushings from falling out, there's a dinky retaining screw in the face of the spindle rack. If, when done notching, you pull your drill back al the way, the adapter nut in the holesaw will lockup against that screwhead and the reverse torque of your drill will just about break your wrist. Ask me how I know...
(I intend to replace the spindle rack altogether with something using ball bearings)People complain that the washers on the bolts that hold the clamp plate in place are thin and distort into the slot. True. Heavier washers are a fast way out, but I fabricated a backplate that slides congruently with the clamp plate. Easy.
The spindle does NOT meet the stock on the stock's centerline. I've read reviews saying the spindle is too low while others say it's too high. Being made of the finest-grade chineseum available, harvested exclusively from the western slopes of the andolusian mountains...and with a level of QC attention never before seen, I can say absolutely with certainty that my spindle was exactly......too low.
A 3/32" stainless steel shim under the spindle rack fixed that, and now it's dead on the CL of the stock to be notched.So what's the verdict? Your mileage may vary, but if you go into this with your eyes wide open, it's a PASS, with the clear & present caveat that, if you do some mod work, you'll have a notcher that actually works.
Some would say that "I shouldn't have to do all THAT to make it work", and you're not wrong at all. But we're tool guys, right? Screwing around on little side projects is fun, no? Again, YMMV, and if you need to be making money notching tube right from the start, then just spend the big bucks, buy a good one and forget you read this. But for guys like me that need to notch 5 times a year (maybe), this can be a functional tool *IF* you put the time into tweaking it.
That's my story and I'm sticking to it. Thanks for reading.
Last edited:
It Claims to be precision, but it isn’t. People complain about shotty parts that fail, and you had to do considerable modifications to have it work to your satisfaction.OK....here we go, down the rabbit hole. I read a ton of reviews, watched a bunch of videos on youtube, and against all better judgment...including my own...I did it anyway. I bought the HF tube notcher.
TLDR version: PASS....with caveats. Lots of caveats.
Where do I begin?
Everything you've read or heard is true: This is NOT a precision machine, and is NOT going to make rollcage-perfect notches. That said, let's not overlook two essential ingredients:
1.) It's a $60 notcher....not $600 (or more) notcher.
2.) If you're buying a notcher, you either a.) have extremely-odd proclivities that border on unhealthy fetishes, or b.) you're a fabricator / welder. For the sake of GJ decorum, Let's assume the latter...please!
Bluntly, does this cut notches, right out of the (cosmoline-soaked) box? Yes. Inaccurate, off-center, sloppy notches, to be sure...but notches nevertheless. But since you're a fabricator / welder / tool tinkerer, there's hope! Modifying this to work in a reasonably accurate manner is doable. And I modified mine greatly.
I am not going to go into all of my mods, as that's beyond the scope of this thread. But issue #1 is that the pivot bolt in the backplate has two fatal flaws: 1.) it ought not be a bolt/nut anyway because the back-and-forth turning of the plate will...in time...loosen the nut (and since the hole is so excessively large & sloppy, accuracy is lost), and 2.) the freakin' hole is mis-located to begin with! So I TIG-filled the pivot hole, drilled a new one in in the right spot, TIG welded in a threaded stud, and re-affixed the plate with a nylon stop-nut. Fixed. (this is one of the reasons the protractor is so inaccurate) Pivoting is now accurate & repeatable...and congruent with the protractor (that I had to remove & reposition).
Next, the clamp Vs are not welded in place square to the clamp plate. So do NOT square the plate to the drill...mount some stock and square the material to the drill. Amazing.
The threaded adapter for the spindle (so larger holesaws can be used) was internally threaded non-concentrically, so the holesaw had a dizzying elliptical orbit. Thrilling to watch, but don't try drilling! A DeWalt replacement was bought at the local hardware store.
To keep the bronze bushings from falling out, there's a dinky retaining screw in the face of the spindle rack. If, when done notching, you pull your drill back al the way, the adapter nut in the holesaw will lockup against that screwhead and the reverse torque of your drill will just about break your wrist. Ask me how I know...
People complain that the washers on the bolts that hold the clamp plate in place are thin and distort into the slot. True. Heavier washers are a fast way out, but I fabricated a backplate that slides congruently with the clamp plate. Easy.
The spindle does NOT meet the stock on the stock's centerline. I've read reviews saying the spindle is too low while others say it's too high. Being made of the finest-grade chineseum available, harvested exclusively from the western slopes of the andolusian mountains...and with a level of QC attention never before seen, I can say absolutely with certainty that my spindle was exactly......too low.
So what's the verdict? Your mileage may vary, but if you go into this with your eyes wide open, it's a PASS, with the clear & present caveat that, if you do some mod work, you'll have a notcher that actually works.
Some would say that "I shouldn't have to do all THAT to make it work", and you're not wrong at all. But we're tool guys, right? Screwing around on little side projects is fun, no? Again, YMMV, and if you need to be making money notching tube right from the start, then just spend the big bucks, buy a good one and forget you read this. But for guys like me that need to notch 5 times a year (maybe), this can be a functional tool *IF* you put the time into tweaking it.
That's my story and I'm sticking to it. Thanks for reading.
According to the outline in the OP for this thread, that would be a “fail”
Somebody might want to just buy it and use it on a project without it, becoming a project of its own
Entertaining and informative. Seems like fixing all that **** and making it an $80+ hole thingy would be a better idea...OK....here we go, down the rabbit hole. I read a ton of reviews, watched a bunch of videos on youtube, and against all better judgment...including my own...I did it anyway. I bought the HF tube notcher.
TLDR version: PASS....with caveats. Lots of caveats.
Where do I begin?
Everything you've read or heard is true: This is NOT a precision machine, and is NOT going to make rollcage-perfect notches. That said, let's not overlook two essential ingredients:
1.) It's a $60 notcher....not $600 (or more) notcher.
2.) If you're buying a notcher, you either a.) have extremely-odd proclivities that border on unhealthy fetishes, or b.) you're a fabricator / welder. For the sake of GJ decorum, Let's assume the latter...please!
Bluntly, does this cut notches, right out of the (cosmoline-soaked) box? Yes. Inaccurate, off-center, sloppy notches, to be sure...but notches nevertheless. But since you're a fabricator / welder / tool tinkerer, there's hope! Modifying this to work in a reasonably accurate manner is doable. And I modified mine greatly.
I am not going to go into all of my mods, as that's beyond the scope of this thread. But issue #1 is that the pivot bolt in the backplate has two fatal flaws: 1.) it ought not be a bolt/nut anyway because the back-and-forth turning of the plate will...in time...loosen the nut (and since the hole is so excessively large & sloppy, accuracy is lost), and 2.) the freakin' hole is mis-located to begin with! So I TIG-filled the pivot hole, drilled a new one in in the right spot, TIG welded in a threaded stud, and re-affixed the plate with a nylon stop-nut. Fixed. (this is one of the reasons the protractor is so inaccurate) Pivoting is now accurate & repeatable...and congruent with the protractor (that I had to remove & reposition).
Next, the clamp Vs are not welded in place square to the clamp plate. So do NOT square the plate to the drill...mount some stock and square the material to the drill. Amazing.
The threaded adapter for the spindle (so larger holesaws can be used) was internally threaded non-concentrically, so the holesaw had a dizzying elliptical orbit. Thrilling to watch, but don't try drilling! A DeWalt replacement was bought at the local hardware store.
To keep the bronze bushings from falling out, there's a dinky retaining screw in the face of the spindle rack. If, when done notching, you pull your drill back al the way, the adapter nut in the holesaw will lockup against that screwhead and the reverse torque of your drill will just about break your wrist. Ask me how I know...
People complain that the washers on the bolts that hold the clamp plate in place are thin and distort into the slot. True. Heavier washers are a fast way out, but I fabricated a backplate that slides congruently with the clamp plate. Easy.
The spindle does NOT meet the stock on the stock's centerline. I've read reviews saying the spindle is too low while others say it's too high. Being made of the finest-grade chineseum available, harvested exclusively from the western slopes of the andolusian mountains...and with a level of QC attention never before seen, I can say absolutely with certainty that my spindle was exactly......too low.
So what's the verdict? Your mileage may vary, but if you go into this with your eyes wide open, it's a PASS, with the clear & present caveat that, if you do some mod work, you'll have a notcher that actually works.
Some would say that "I shouldn't have to do all THAT to make it work", and you're not wrong at all. But we're tool guys, right? Screwing around on little side projects is fun, no? Again, YMMV, and if you need to be making money notching tube right from the start, then just spend the big bucks, buy a good one and forget you read this. But for guys like me that need to notch 5 times a year (maybe), this can be a functional tool *IF* you put the time into tweaking it.
That's my story and I'm sticking to it. Thanks for reading.
kyrbz
Well-known member
Franklin Stretch Wrap - FAIL
Worst stretch wrap I've ever used. Very thin compared to other stretch wraps I've used and the edges of the roll were stuck together making it impossible to unroll without tearing. Completely useless
Worst stretch wrap I've ever used. Very thin compared to other stretch wraps I've used and the edges of the roll were stuck together making it impossible to unroll without tearing. Completely useless
jonesg
Well-known member
thats secret code for the price is going up.
jonesg
Well-known member
thats a fail.OK....here we go, down the rabbit hole. I read a ton of reviews, watched a bunch of videos on youtube, and against all better judgment...including my own...I did it anyway. I bought the HF tube notcher.
TLDR version: PASS....with caveats. Lots of caveats.
Where do I begin?
Everything you've read or heard is true: This is NOT a precision machine, and is NOT going to make rollcage-perfect notches. That said, let's not overlook two essential ingredients:
1.) It's a $60 notcher....not $600 (or more) notcher.
2.) If you're buying a notcher, you either a.) have extremely-odd proclivities that border on unhealthy fetishes, or b.) you're a fabricator / welder. For the sake of GJ decorum, Let's assume the latter...please!
Bluntly, does this cut notches, right out of the (cosmoline-soaked) box? Yes. Inaccurate, off-center, sloppy notches, to be sure...but notches nevertheless. But since you're a fabricator / welder / tool tinkerer, there's hope! Modifying this to work in a reasonably accurate manner is doable. And I modified mine greatly.
I am not going to go into all of my mods, as that's beyond the scope of this thread. But issue #1 is that the pivot bolt in the backplate has two fatal flaws: 1.) it ought not be a bolt/nut anyway because the back-and-forth turning of the plate will...in time...loosen the nut (and since the hole is so excessively large & sloppy, accuracy is lost), and 2.) the freakin' hole is mis-located to begin with! So I TIG-filled the pivot hole, drilled a new one in in the right spot, TIG welded in a threaded stud, and re-affixed the plate with a nylon stop-nut. Fixed. (this is one of the reasons the protractor is so inaccurate) Pivoting is now accurate & repeatable...and congruent with the protractor (that I had to remove & reposition).
Next, the clamp Vs are not welded in place square to the clamp plate. So do NOT square the plate to the drill...mount some stock and square the material to the drill. Amazing.
The threaded adapter for the spindle (so larger holesaws can be used) was internally threaded non-concentrically, so the holesaw had a dizzying elliptical orbit. Thrilling to watch, but don't try drilling! A DeWalt replacement was bought at the local hardware store.
To keep the bronze bushings from falling out, there's a dinky retaining screw in the face of the spindle rack. If, when done notching, you pull your drill back al the way, the adapter nut in the holesaw will lockup against that screwhead and the reverse torque of your drill will just about break your wrist. Ask me how I know...
People complain that the washers on the bolts that hold the clamp plate in place are thin and distort into the slot. True. Heavier washers are a fast way out, but I fabricated a backplate that slides congruently with the clamp plate. Easy.
The spindle does NOT meet the stock on the stock's centerline. I've read reviews saying the spindle is too low while others say it's too high. Being made of the finest-grade chineseum available, harvested exclusively from the western slopes of the andolusian mountains...and with a level of QC attention never before seen, I can say absolutely with certainty that my spindle was exactly......too low.
So what's the verdict? Your mileage may vary, but if you go into this with your eyes wide open, it's a PASS, with the clear & present caveat that, if you do some mod work, you'll have a notcher that actually works.
Some would say that "I shouldn't have to do all THAT to make it work", and you're not wrong at all. But we're tool guys, right? Screwing around on little side projects is fun, no? Again, YMMV, and if you need to be making money notching tube right from the start, then just spend the big bucks, buy a good one and forget you read this. But for guys like me that need to notch 5 times a year (maybe), this can be a functional tool *IF* you put the time into tweaking it.
That's my story and I'm sticking to it. Thanks for reading.
Farmall450
Well-known member
I got the cheap Titanium 125 for $100 NIB at a pawn shop when I was in college. That thing has been to pretty much every one of my friend's houses to weld something at some point in time.How can ya beat using HFT's own shekels? I bought the Vulcan Omnipro 220 multi-process welder, the spool gun for welding aluminum, a TIG torch, a cart, and a foot pedal. I didn't use it for awhile after buying it, but recently have set it up and have had it used on frame welding on a project car, I had an experienced welder doing it instead of trying it myself. The LCD screen helps to set the machine up. It tells you:
The recommended settings the experienced welder saw the machine select were 'in the ballpark' (we were using the MIG process), he had me dial-down the wire feed and the voltage slightly, after doing a couple test-welds on some re-bar, and he went to work. The work being done was welding steel motor mounts, a steel transmission frame cross-member and hangers, and a steel frame cross-member for top of rear shock mounts.
- what gas to use
- what cables to use
- where to attach the cables
- the wire feed speed
- The thickness of materials
- the type of metal being worked
- the voltage to set (besides 120/240V)
The work was easily accomplished, no waiting for the machine to cool-down, no popping the circuit breaker (all work done on 240V) no machine shut-down because of exceeding the duty cycle. When he was done, he said, "the machine worked very-well. I didn't think Harbor Freight welders were very-good, but I have no issues with the way this worked."
See for yourself.
My remark about 'using HFT's money/shekels?' I filed for the Harbor Freight class-action lawsuit settlement, and got two gift certificates/store credit which I used to partially-pay for the welder and accessories. I waited until it went on sale, and bought. The current price, no coupons is about 230% more than I paid for my multi-process welder, so yeah, I used 'their money.'
PA$$!
It's at my buddy's who only has 20A 120 at his shop right now, we welded 1/8" patch panels on his 93 Wrangler's frame. Wasn't pretty, took way too long, but it worked.
The flux gets old, but he has both axles off, or we would have driven it to my place and used my Ironman 230. Long story short, the Titanium and Vulcan machines both seem good. One note, don't buy it if you aren't going to use it, because their resale value ***** (compared to a Hobart, Miller, or Lincoln).
PASS - #64918 Maddox cylinder leakdown tester kit. Worked fine for me, confirmed no leaks on my son’s Taurus, got it with a coupon. Bonus - some of my hoses from older gauge kits also worked with this one, so I gained a shorter hose for the back cylinders and tighter spaces, which was super handy.
PASS - #62637 Pittsburgh fuel pump/vacuum tester. Could have sworn I had one in the garage but all I could find were compression and fuel gauges. This was cheap, available, and threaded right into the O2 sensor bung, and confirmed an exhaust restriction issue that I suspected.
PASS - #62637 Pittsburgh fuel pump/vacuum tester. Could have sworn I had one in the garage but all I could find were compression and fuel gauges. This was cheap, available, and threaded right into the O2 sensor bung, and confirmed an exhaust restriction issue that I suspected.
bmdubya1198
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 30, 2021
- Messages
- 56
While we’re on that topic, the Maddox “deluxe” compression tester is also a pass. It’s held up well for me for the past 2-3 years I’ve had it. Much nicer than the Pittsburgh I replaced with it… which is a piece of ****.
The Pittsburgh fuel pump/vacuum tester is also solid. Basic vacuum gauge that does the job.
The Pittsburgh fuel pump/vacuum tester is also solid. Basic vacuum gauge that does the job.
Okay I have a weird one. I needed to turn down a piece of DOM on the lathe and I needed a way to hold it on the tail stock end. I could have machined a bushing and center drilled it but I thought that if this happens more often it would be nice to have a bullnose live center. Looking online, the options were dirt cheap friction bearing models and insanely expensive models that likely have much nicer bearings.
This would not be something I use a lot, so I was browsing the affordable end of the spectrum. I have a 2MT tail stock so I wanted something with a 2MT shank and the ID of my tube is pretty small (though not small enough for a typical live center) so I needed something with a steeper angle that got fairly small at the tip.
I began to see what is likely the same one pop up over and over sold by various vendors when I noticed a version being sold by who else but Harbor Freight unter their "cen-tech" name for $30. I pulled the trigger.
It arrived so I tossed it into the tail stock and put a half-thou indicator on it. It showed almost no detectible runout, so that was a good sign. It was a little stiff to turn but I figured the grease was cold and it would warm up when running. I faced my tube and de-burred the ID but didn't bother trying to put a chamfer on it.
I snugged up the tailstock and started turning. Everything was going fine and I was making passes when I noticed how much grease was oozing out the back. I suppose that makes sense considering I was putting pressure on it and it was heating up from spinning. Anyway, my part turned out great and when I removed the work it was spinning much more freely. The grease must have been packed in there.
The nose showed just a faint sign of where the pipe had been seated but it's not detectible to the touch.
All in all, for $30, I couldn't have asked for much more. I don't typically think of HF for machinist tools but in this case it was exactly what I needed and it was the cheapest place to buy it, so it gets a pass.
This would not be something I use a lot, so I was browsing the affordable end of the spectrum. I have a 2MT tail stock so I wanted something with a 2MT shank and the ID of my tube is pretty small (though not small enough for a typical live center) so I needed something with a steeper angle that got fairly small at the tip.
I began to see what is likely the same one pop up over and over sold by various vendors when I noticed a version being sold by who else but Harbor Freight unter their "cen-tech" name for $30. I pulled the trigger.
It arrived so I tossed it into the tail stock and put a half-thou indicator on it. It showed almost no detectible runout, so that was a good sign. It was a little stiff to turn but I figured the grease was cold and it would warm up when running. I faced my tube and de-burred the ID but didn't bother trying to put a chamfer on it.
I snugged up the tailstock and started turning. Everything was going fine and I was making passes when I noticed how much grease was oozing out the back. I suppose that makes sense considering I was putting pressure on it and it was heating up from spinning. Anyway, my part turned out great and when I removed the work it was spinning much more freely. The grease must have been packed in there.
The nose showed just a faint sign of where the pipe had been seated but it's not detectible to the touch.
All in all, for $30, I couldn't have asked for much more. I don't typically think of HF for machinist tools but in this case it was exactly what I needed and it was the cheapest place to buy it, so it gets a pass.
Attachments
Hercules 13A 4.5"-6" angle grinder: PASS
I got this for $50 on ITC sale (normally $99) a few weeks ago. I wound up with a Milwaukee brushless M18 too, and decided to keep both. The brushed Hercules is a LOT grumpier than the Milwaukee which is listed as 11A, but doesn't feel nearly as powerful.
I got this for $50 on ITC sale (normally $99) a few weeks ago. I wound up with a Milwaukee brushless M18 too, and decided to keep both. The brushed Hercules is a LOT grumpier than the Milwaukee which is listed as 11A, but doesn't feel nearly as powerful.
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bcradio
Well-known member
Could you elaborate on this please? Is it good or bad?Hercules 13A 4.5"-6" angle grinder: PASS
I got this for $50 on ITC sale (normally $99) a few weeks ago. I wound up with a Milwaukee brushless M18 too, and decided to keep both. The brushed Hercules is a LOT grumpier than the Milwaukee with is listed as 11A, but doesn't feel nearly as powerful.
Pass = Good. As the text says, it feels a lot more powerful than 'just' 2 additional amps would imply vs. my Milwaukee M18.
It came with a couple grinding wheels (Hercules brand), and three guards/covers (4.5", 5" and 6"). The cord feels very nice - not stiff and plasticy and is damn near 8 feet long. Trigger feels nice. The case materials feel nice - definitely premium vs. cheap. The power is definitely there 13 amp and 10K RPM - went easily through the materials I was cutting. The only criticism I have so far would be that guards are a bit fiddly to remove (very easy with the Milwaukee), but it's not something I'm planning to do often.
At $50, I feels almost like they made a mistake in their computers (ITC sale price). At it's $99 regular price I still think it's an awfully nice grinder.
bmdubya1198
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 30, 2021
- Messages
- 56
"Pass" in this thread is good, as in pass or fail.