The Harbor Freight PASS/FAIL Thread...

[Wrench97]

With the weight of the vehicle on it? That seems pretty crazy to me. I usually give each stand a good solid yank once the car is lowered down on them. Never would I have thought it could slide with all that weight on them.

Sometimes when you have car on stands the weight on all 4 is not equal, this applies to lift arms too.

 

[ChevyEFI]

The flat welded bottoms will slide a lot easier on a smooth floor, for a asphalt driveway they are better(will not sink in as fast) but can still slide. I know a guy that kicked one while under the car and had it slide out.

That's the first thought I had. No design is perfect for every surface. But I don't want broad flat surface area on the concrete drive, nor semi smooth garage.

 

[jayemm]

With the weight of the vehicle on it? That seems pretty crazy to me. I usually give each stand a good solid yank once the car is lowered down on them. Never would I have thought it could slide with all that weight on them.

I agree. Unless I'm missing something it's best to have some part of the support point sitting in the "nock" of the saddle so the stand couldn't slide out even without much weight on it. And how hard is it to raise the vehicle and jack stand another notch so weight is on the stand when lowered. The ratchet bar teeth are typically only 3/4"- 1" apart anyway. But I suppose that pin style stands with wider hole spacing could pose more of a problem.

 

[zendriver]

I know a guy that kicked one while under the car and had it slide out.

I’ll try not to be that guy.

 

[Colin Len]

Sometimes when you have car on stands the weight on all 4 is not equal, this applies to lift arms too.

I'm well aware of this. But in that case the stand slipping would not be the fault of the stand and instead poor load balance across all stands. These are two separate topics / reasons for a stand to slip.

 

[M635_Guy]

I know a guy that kicked one while under the car and had it slide out.

Then it wasn't set properly. That's 100% on him.

Properly set and under load, those feet are the opposite of a liability.

 

[zendriver]

Sometimes when you have car on stands the weight on all 4 is not equal, this applies to lift arms too.

So what if it’s not equal?

They will all have weight on them. If they don’t, then they’re not set right

So is the belief the other angular corners that they’re going to “grab “ the concrete floor?

That seems like a stretch

 

[M635_Guy]

That seems like a stretch

Exactly - it also ignores the fact that the plates also act to box in the frame, which makes it stronger.

 

[oscarsnapkin]

I bought this quite a few years back, so maybe it’s changed. The rear brake caliper tool for twisting rear calipers back into place. Major FAIL. Broke on the very first caliper I used it on. I never returned it, but bought a used Blue Point on eBay that has served me well.

 

[atch]

I bought this quite a few years back, so maybe it’s changed. The rear brake caliper tool for twisting rear calipers back into place. Major FAIL. Broke on the very first caliper I used it on. I never returned it, but bought a used Blue Point on eBay that has served me well.

Is it the same one I posted about in response 11,147?

 

[oscarsnapkin]

Is it the same one I posted about in response 11,147?

Yes.

 

[oscarsnapkin]

After reading some of this I just thought of one that’s a total winner. Unfortunately I looked on their website and I don’t see it. Their Central Pneumatic air-powered cut-off tool is awesome. I have two of them, and I think I paid less than $10 each when they were on sale. I kept one at home, which I have barely use, but the other was at work where it was used on a daily basis. Without a doubt my most used air tool and it’s held up. It’s the only cut-off tool I’ve ever used, so I can’t say how it performs compared to a name brand.

 

[atch]

After reading some of this I just thought of one that’s a total winner. Unfortunately I looked on their website and I don’t see it. Their Central Pneumatic air-powered cut-off tool is awesome. I have two of them, and I think I paid less than $10 each when they were on sale. I kept one at home, which I have barely use, but the other was at work where it was used on a daily basis. Without a doubt my most used air tool and it’s held up. It’s the only cut-off tool I’ve ever used, so I can’t say how it performs compared to a name brand.

If it's held up under daily use that's a definite pass!

 

[Hakeem]

This little gun absolutely RIPS:


This picture doesn’t do the small size justice but it really is a compact little beast. It still packs a wallop , making up for the small size of the hammer with a very high rate of impacts/rpm. I get almost everything off with this, although I do have to resort to a more powerful gun for the really stuck fasteners.

It spins fasteners off super quick compared to other air guns I’ve used, which is much appreciated. It’s also very smooth feeling in operation, with little vibration transferred to the user. I really love using this impact gun. Highly recommended.

—PASS—

 

[dscheidt]

After reading some of this I just thought of one that’s a total winner. Unfortunately I looked on their website and I don’t see it. Their Central Pneumatic air-powered cut-off tool is awesome. I have two of them, and I think I paid less than $10 each when they were on sale. I kept one at home, which I have barely use, but the other was at work where it was used on a daily basis. Without a doubt my most used air tool and it’s held up. It’s the only cut-off tool I’ve ever used, so I can’t say how it performs compared to a name brand.

I had one 20 years ago. It worked well, but it used a whole lot of air compared to a nicer one. Wasn't a problem in a shop with good air, but the compressor I had at home couldn't keep up with it. But it's definitely a pass.

 

[GeoBruin]

Before I start I'll admit to potentially misusing/abusing these, so I don't know if this can really be considered a true fail.

I was working on my Airstream and using 1/8" aluminum rivets to reattach the front window guard to its hinge. One of the rivets didn't break off flush so I though I would trim it down with my Icon flush cutters. It was down in a recess so I could only really get the tip of the cutters on it, but I figured it was aluminum so it should be no problem. Anyway, it snapped the tip off the cutters.

So, is the shank of an aluminum rivet outside the intended use of these pliers or is this a fail?

And before anyone says anything, yes, these were fully aluminum rivets, not a steel shank.

 

[bwringer]

Before I start I'll admit to potentially misusing/abusing these, so I don't know if this can really be considered a true fail.

I was working on my Airstream and using 1/8" aluminum rivets to reattach the front window guard to its hinge. One of the rivets didn't break off flush so I though I would trim it down with my Icon flush cutters. It was down in a recess so I could only really get the tip of the cutters on it, but I figured it was aluminum so it should be no problem. Anyway, it snapped the tip off the cutters.

So, is the shank of an aluminum rivet outside the intended use of these pliers or is this a fail?

And before anyone says anything, yes, these were fully aluminum rivets, not a steel shank.

I am pretty sure these are not supposed to be used on anything harder than plastic cable ties or perhaps smaller stranded copper wire, but I don't know specifically if that's explained on the packaging. I do know other flush cuts I've had do explain this on the package.

I have a pair kept in the drawer with the zip ties and with the plastic protector on the nose, and they're fantastic for their intended use. Outside of that, they're pretty useless.

So yeah, using them on an aluminum rivet was not likely to end well.

In any case, it's likely that they'll replace them if you take them back to the store.

 

[bwringer]

I bought this quite a few years back, so maybe it’s changed. The rear brake caliper tool for twisting rear calipers back into place. Major FAIL. Broke on the very first caliper I used it on. I never returned it, but bought a used Blue Point on eBay that has served me well.

That one is long gone. The current "Maddox" version is quite skookum, and there's an Icon version now too with more options.

The Maddox line of specialty tools is generally quite good, but more expensive than the one-time or no-time use "Pittsburgh" stuff.

 

[kmacht]

Picked up a manual oil extractor from harbor freight with the intent of sucking the transmission fluid out of my truck before dropping the pan (pan has no drain plug). The unit is a piece of junk. The hoses that come with it are only 5 feet long. Who has a car where you can put the pump on the floor of the garage and reach the bottom of your oil pan in less than 5 feet. There is no longer a quick connect for the hose on the top of the unit. They have these cheap rubber plugs now that leak like crazy and make you lose vacuum. I had to pack grease around them to try and get any sort of seal. To drain 2.5 gallons out of the transmission it took just over an hour. Every 3 or 4 minutes you have to pump it up again to restore the vacuum. The worst part is that since it has had fluid in it you can’t return it to the store. That was $90 completely wasted.

 

[zendriver]

Before I start I'll admit to potentially misusing/abusing these, so I don't know if this can really be considered a true fail.

I was working on my Airstream and using 1/8" aluminum rivets to reattach the front window guard to its hinge. One of the rivets didn't break off flush so I though I would trim it down with my Icon flush cutters. It was down in a recess so I could only really get the tip of the cutters on it, but I figured it was aluminum so it should be no problem. Anyway, it snapped the tip off the cutters.

So, is the shank of an aluminum rivet outside the intended use of these pliers or is this a fail?

And before anyone says anything, yes, these were fully aluminum rivets, not a steel shank.

Yes abusing IMO.

Dia cuts would have been appropriate IMO.

Seems doubtful soft aluminum would be used on rivet shanks.

 

[jayemm]

Picked up a manual oil extractor from harbor freight with the intent of sucking the transmission fluid out of my truck before dropping the pan (pan has no drain plug). The unit is a piece of junk. The hoses that come with it are only 5 feet long. Who has a car where you can put the pump on the floor of the garage and reach the bottom of your oil pan in less than 5 feet. There is no longer a quick connect for the hose on the top of the unit. They have these cheap rubber plugs now that leak like crazy and make you lose vacuum. I had to pack grease around them to try and get any sort of seal. To drain 2.5 gallons out of the transmission it took just over an hour. Every 3 or 4 minutes you have to pump it up again to restore the vacuum. The worst part is that since it has had fluid in it you can’t return it to the store. That was $90 completely wasted.

I'd try to return it anyway, show them, and explain that it was defective from the get-go so the problems occurred in first use. Return policy whatever, defective is defective. I'd fight on this one. There used to be a thing called implied merchantability where the product should perform adequately.

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

Picked up a manual oil extractor from harbor freight with the intent of sucking the transmission fluid out of my truck before dropping the pan (pan has no drain plug). The unit is a piece of junk. The hoses that come with it are only 5 feet long. Who has a car where you can put the pump on the floor of the garage and reach the bottom of your oil pan in less than 5 feet. There is no longer a quick connect for the hose on the top of the unit. They have these cheap rubber plugs now that leak like crazy and make you lose vacuum. I had to pack grease around them to try and get any sort of seal. To drain 2.5 gallons out of the transmission it took just over an hour. Every 3 or 4 minutes you have to pump it up again to restore the vacuum. The worst part is that since it has had fluid in it you can’t return it to the store. That was $90 completely wasted.

My buddy was telling me the other day he had the same experience. He didn't expect it to last too long.

 

[kmacht]

I'd try to return it anyway, show them, and explain that it was defective from the get-go so the problems occurred in first use. Return policy whatever, defective is defective. I'd fight on this one. There used to be a thing called implied merchantability where the product should perform adequately.

It doesn’t matter. If nice it has been used the store won’t accept it back because they don’t know what fluids are in it and don’t have msds sheets for employees that may come in contact with it. In reading online it looks like I can call a 800 number and they may send me a gift card for the purchase amount.

 

[merkyworks]

I am pretty sure these are not supposed to be used on anything harder than plastic cable ties or perhaps smaller stranded copper wire, but I don't know specifically if that's explained on the packaging. I do know other flush cuts I've had do explain this on the package.

I have a pair kept in the drawer with the zip ties and with the plastic protector on the nose, and they're fantastic for their intended use. Outside of that, they're pretty useless.

So yeah, using them on an aluminum rivet was not likely to end well.

In any case, it's likely that they'll replace them if you take them back to the store.

100% made for just cutting plastic

 

[jayemm]

It doesn’t matter. If nice it has been used the store won’t accept it back because they don’t know what fluids are in it and don’t have msds sheets for employees that may come in contact with it. In reading online it looks like I can call a 800 number and they may send me a gift card for the purchase amount.

I didn't think of that angle. I'll have to scrutinize their return policy. Whatever HF decides I hope they treat you right or at least give some satisfaction.

 

[Prospecter]

Before I start I'll admit to potentially misusing/abusing these, so I don't know if this can really be considered a true fail.

I was working on my Airstream and using 1/8" aluminum rivets to reattach the front window guard to its hinge. One of the rivets didn't break off flush so I though I would trim it down with my Icon flush cutters. It was down in a recess so I could only really get the tip of the cutters on it, but I figured it was aluminum so it should be no problem. Anyway, it snapped the tip off the cutters.

So, is the shank of an aluminum rivet outside the intended use of these pliers or is this a fail?

And before anyone says anything, yes, these were fully aluminum rivets, not a steel shank.

I'd call that a fail. Looks like I am outvoted though.

 

[65ranchero]

2 outstanding purchases have been:
Needed to grind out a casting to fit a new mogul lamp 3-way socket, regular grinder would not reach in far enough

https://www.harborfreight.com/14-in-extended-air-die-grinder-70126.html

Pass

When installing Simpson brackets on the house ledger board to hold the joists it became very tedious and took a long time per bracket, so I bought this...
https://www.harborfreight.com/compact-palm-nailer-57925.html Pass

 

[zendriver]

I'd call that a fail. Looks like I am outvoted though.

Who gave it a "PASS" ?

The user was honest, considering that it may have been abused, which was agreed with here. If it was busted using it for it intended purpose, there would be little reason not to give it a FAIL.

The Snap On product, that icon "beats", pretty much the same intended use.

• Flush cut jaws provide clean cuts across a full range of cable tie sizes—extra small to extra large—eliminating painful edges on wire bundles and other components secured by cable ties

Snap-on Store

shop.snapon.com

The Snappys look like they have thin enough cutting edge, might break cutting rivet mandrels, as well.

 

[Damon L.]

I am pretty sure the package on those flush cutter says plastics and soft metals (copper/AL wire, etc.) only.

I have one, and give it a PASS if used as intended. It cuts zip ties flush and does a nice job with 16 ga GXL wire if needed.

 

[emeraldcoupe]

800lb low lift transmission jack - pass

https://www.harborfreight.com/800-lb-low-lift-transmission-jack-70192.html

it's more expensive than when i bought it and mine is silver. i've used it a few times now(yesterday in fact), works great. the chain that comes with it is worthless so i welded on a couple of D rings so i could use a ratchet strap, much better now. the tilt works fine and comes in handy. it should last quite a while, i have a few hf jacks and haven't had any problems with them.

 

[mrvm]

This 7” Bremen locking plier #57762 should have been an easy PASS but after a challenging first use the handle that closes the locking plier tight became loose and the rivets have a bunch of slop making a firm grip impossible plus reconnecting all the inner parts. For $6.97 I should just throw it out but while shopping at the local HF I tried to test the Lifetime warranty.
Bad news: the HF staff said I had to pay the cost difference for a newer packaged 7” Bremen locking plier which has a different SKU with the only difference = no plastic grip handle. I declined the offer to pay more for the same **** tool. Easier to throw it away and switch back to my better brand or try one more time when the HF associate I have a good relationship is on duty.

 

[zendriver]

This 7” Bremen locking plier #57762 should have been an easy PASS but after a challenging first use the handle that closes the locking plier tight became loose and the rivets have a bunch of slop making a firm grip impossible plus reconnecting all the inner parts. For $6.97 I should just throw it out but while shopping at the local HF I tried to test the Lifetime warranty.
Bad news: the HF staff said I had to pay the cost difference for a newer packaged 7” Bremen locking plier which has a different SKU with the only difference = no plastic grip handle. I declined the offer to pay more for the same **** tool. Easier to throw it away and switch back to my better brand or try one more time when the HF associate I have a good relationship is on duty.

No store Manager?

 

[Prospecter]

This 7” Bremen locking plier #57762 should have been an easy PASS but after a challenging first use the handle that closes the locking plier tight became loose and the rivets have a bunch of slop making a firm grip impossible plus reconnecting all the inner parts. For $6.97 I should just throw it out but while shopping at the local HF I tried to test the Lifetime warranty.
Bad news: the HF staff said I had to pay the cost difference for a newer packaged 7” Bremen locking plier which has a different SKU with the only difference = no plastic grip handle. I declined the offer to pay more for the same **** tool. Easier to throw it away and switch back to my better brand or try one more time when the HF associate I have a good relationship is on duty.

I am surprised those failed you. Bremen pliers are my go to pliers. I actually prefer them to my original Vice Grips. (Heresy, I know!) The smaller sizes in particular are an excellent third hand on the other side of the boat hull for tightening fasteners. I also think if I did not get satisfaction at the store, I would go to corporate. Paying for different SKUs is silly, and HF seems to generally stand behind their stuff.

 

[dscheidt]

This 7” Bremen locking plier #57762 should have been an easy PASS but after a challenging first use the handle that closes the locking plier tight became loose and the rivets have a bunch of slop making a firm grip impossible plus reconnecting all the inner parts. For $6.97 I should just throw it out but while shopping at the local HF I tried to test the Lifetime warranty.
Bad news: the HF staff said I had to pay the cost difference for a newer packaged 7” Bremen locking plier which has a different SKU with the only difference = no plastic grip handle. I declined the offer to pay more for the same **** tool. Easier to throw it away and switch back to my better brand or try one more time when the HF associate I have a good relationship is on duty.

I had a store tell me that. A polite note to the office of Eric Schmid got a phone call from someone who confirmed they should have given me whatever the closest current model is. They sent me gift card and a coupon, so I could get it myself. (And a few days later, a call from the store, apologizing for not giving me a replacement, and telling me to come back.).

 

[vwishndaetr]

Not sure if it was already covered in this thread, sure as hell not gonna scan 280 pages to confirm... but these ICON adapters saved my ***. These were officially my gateway drug for all the other ICON stuff I have since purchased.

I was really struggling removing an axle bolt on a VW CC (torqued to 150ft-lb + 180deg w/ Loctite). I had a 1/2" drive bit and was using it with a 3/4" wrench (I was struggling to find the right tool @ 3/4" drive so I was at the mercy of using adapters). Everything I tried either broke, twisted, or didn't move the bolt.

Threw one of the 3/4"-1/2" adapters on and it broke the bolt loose without any issues.

 

[bwringer]

I had a store tell me that. A polite note to the office of Eric Schmid got a phone call from someone who confirmed they should have given me whatever the closest current model is. They sent me gift card and a coupon, so I could get it myself. (And a few days later, a call from the store, apologizing for not giving me a replacement, and telling me to come back.).

Dang, you couldn't ask for a better correction.

I have no idea why some of the employees there are so damn protective of Schmid's money. And the different SKU thing is just sillypants; they use more than one SKU for the same item all the time.



I once had a HF torque wrench where the torquey bit was fine, but the ratchet had failed. I took it back to the store where I had purchased it, at least five and probably closer to ten years ago, and got nothing but a stonewall.

"That's not from HF".
"Oh yes it is. I got it from that shelf over there and checked out over here."
"No it's not."
"Yes it is."
"The case is different."
"Well, yeah, they used to be different a few years back."
"Nuh uh."
"Uh huh."

This was obviously going nowhere and getting undignified fast, so I left. Wasn't worth getting bothered over a cheap old torque wrench that honestly didn't owe me anything. I eventually bought another at a different HF store.

 

[lolaetype]

I bought a 1.25 gallon and a .5 gallon garden sprayer today. The 1.25 gallon sprayer hits well above it's price point. Well made, a wide base for stability when you sit it down. a 48" hose, good spray pattern, it holds it's pressure and it has a pressure release valve

The .5 gallon one is a simple handheld one. Works well, sprays a stream about 20 feet; good for attacking wasp's nests.

Thumbs up on both.

 

[SouthernIllinois]

Pneumatic Scraper - FAIL

Didn't work straight out of the box.

 

[Wrench97]

Pneumatic Scraper - FAIL

Didn't work straight out of the box.

I have a 40 year old Snap On model didn't work for *rap from day 1.......

 

[Daytonaer]

Channel lock type pipe wrench: fail










I have had these for years, when in the middle of a big DIY project the wrench bent and jumped locks. It is difficult to see in the pictures but the hinge is still engaged and the locks are bound on top of each other. Also of interest is the pictured gouged teeth edge: I was working with brass fittings, I don't think anything I was working with should be harder than the teeth, I'm pretty sure it wasn't my knuckles...

Anyways same project, HF (Icon) pliers wrench knock off: PASS, sort of.


I have the icon 10" pliers wrench, the Klien 10" pliers wrench and a knipex 150mm pliers wrench. The Klein wrench wouldn't fit as the reversible jaw fowled another fitting, the icon's just fit.

I had the icon's on a 1.25" fitting with a 3' cheater pipe and the job got done. I love the cam design which allows force to be put on one handle in use, unlike the slip joint style which need you to squeeze handles together while applying turning force.

Icon pliers held together and got the job done, so it is a win.

However the icon's are a little loose in the hips/joint now. Still perfectly usable and acceptable IMO for the abuse I put them through, but you can feel the slop when compared to a new set. I believe it perfectly reasonable to expense the pliers wrench for a job like I performed and consider them disposable after significant abuse (clearly outside design parameters). Like many others I am suspicious of HF metallurgy vs knipex metallurgy. My 150's are too small to have been of use however the Icon pliers have sold me on the design, and I will likely buy a set of genuine knipex in a large size if I get into another mess like this.