Wrench97
Well-known member
That's not a pipe wrench, channel lock pliers have failed that way for years, either the nut is loose on the bolt or the bolt is stretched.
The Harbor Freight PASS/FAIL Thread...
- Thread starter Bolster
- Start date
Daytonaer
Well-known member
I’m not going to pretend I know plumbing.
I bought that wrench years ago to tighten something gigantic and never used it afterward, never put much stress into it, it just had to be big to serve that purpose. It then sat in a drawer for years. I leaned into it recently with all my strength and it failed.
It is very possible the bolt stretched, but the pliers halves bent too. Sorry I wasn’t able to make that obvious in the picture. Nut was still staked on and unmoved when I threw them away. I didn’t think to exam the bolt pivot pin for stretch.
I am not confident a channel lock brand would have got the job done, but I do believe they would not have bent and or had the pin bolt stretch with the amount of energy I was able to exert.
I think it should be fairly obvious a $10 or so new slip joint plier will resemble a tool more than function like one. It is also fair to say it was purchased in an era before the recent quality uptick at hf.
vwishndaetr
Active member
- Joined
- Jun 19, 2024
- Messages
- 28
I have the same ones. They're ****.Channel lock type pipe wrench: fail
I have had these for years, when in the middle of a big DIY project the wrench bent and jumped locks. It is difficult to see in the pictures but the hinge is still engaged and the locks are bound on top of each other. Also of interest is the pictured gouged teeth edge: I was working with brass fittings, I don't think anything I was working with should be harder than the teeth, I'm pretty sure it wasn't my knuckles...
Anyways same project, HF (Icon) pliers wrench knock off: PASS, sort of.
I have the icon 10" pliers wrench, the Klien 10" pliers wrench and a knipex 150mm pliers wrench. The Klein wrench wouldn't fit as the reversible jaw fowled another fitting, the icon's just fit.
I had the icon's on a 1.25" fitting with a 3' cheater pipe and the job got done. I love the cam design which allows force to be put on one handle in use, unlike the slip joint style which need you to squeeze handles together while applying turning force.
Icon pliers held together and got the job done, so it is a win.
However the icon's are a little loose in the hips/joint now. Still perfectly usable and acceptable IMO for the abuse I put them through, but you can feel the slop when compared to a new set. I believe it perfectly reasonable to expense the pliers wrench for a job like I performed and consider them disposable after significant abuse (clearly outside design parameters). Like many others I am suspicious of HF metallurgy vs knipex metallurgy. My 150's are too small to have been of use however the Icon pliers have sold me on the design, and I will likely buy a set of genuine knipex in a large size if I get into another mess like this.
Can use them to get a cap off a soda bottle if you're fingers are too raw from all the wrenching. Otherwise they're useless. I currently use it to take the hot grates off my grill when needed.
I'll crow over good HF stuff, but eat turd, If I expect to always get off too cheap.
Had to drill in deep recess to drill out a snapped off screw, so I needed hex shank drills and extension. Though I'd give these a try, how bad can they be?
I'm not sure if they would drill wood. The answer is pretty bad, shame on me for being too cheap. Every size tried produced few or no chips, then they were done.
Epic FAIL
Had to drill in deep recess to drill out a snapped off screw, so I needed hex shank drills and extension. Though I'd give these a try, how bad can they be?
I'm not sure if they would drill wood. The answer is pretty bad, shame on me for being too cheap. Every size tried produced few or no chips, then they were done.
Epic FAIL
I bought that set a couple months ago, specifically to drill holes for tapping grease fitting threads. Worked great for me.
Maybe they were just having a bad month (since they were different sizes)
At first, I though possible (for whatever reason) the screw was hardened, just the usual GM ****, since I found some cheapie Cman in a hex driver set, that ate right through the screw.
I used to think the Warrior "Titanium" drill bit set was good - until the last time I tried to use them on even soft metal. Absolute horse-****, lesson learned there as well.
Glad they worked for you.
I purchased one of the Doyle Rivnut tool and it gets a pass by me. I already had a different brand one and broke off the 1/4-20 die and finally used the Doyle the other day.
After use I actually like the Doyle one better. The method the dies attached make unthreading the nutsert easy and swapping sizes much simpler.
Rivnut tool
After use I actually like the Doyle one better. The method the dies attached make unthreading the nutsert easy and swapping sizes much simpler.
Rivnut tool
Twisted Sid
Well-known member
HERCULES 20V Brushless Cordless, 3/8 in. Compact, 4-Mode Impact Wrench
www.harborfreight.com
FAIL
I have a few of the 20v Hercules tools that I use everyday at work and this is the only one I have found to be worthless. Wouldn't remove a brake rotor bolt that is torqued to 48ft.lbs. I tried with a 5ah, a 4ah extreme, and an 8ah extreme battery's
I have found a few videos about this tool on YouTube and posts on forums and they have a similar experience with it. It just *****...
I did find 2 videos where guys have taken the 20v impact driver that has more power and converted them to 3/8" drive with dewalt anvils and I decided to try the swap and it's a win. The anvil did need a little bit of massaging to fit but it wasnt anything major.
The conversion is shorter, a bit lighter, and has the 3 lights on the front. Second picture shows them stacked and the difference in the noses
20V Brushless Cordless, 3/8 in. Compact, 4-Mode Impact Wrench – Tool Only
Amazing deals on this 20V 3/8In 3-Speed Impact Wrench at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
I have a few of the 20v Hercules tools that I use everyday at work and this is the only one I have found to be worthless. Wouldn't remove a brake rotor bolt that is torqued to 48ft.lbs. I tried with a 5ah, a 4ah extreme, and an 8ah extreme battery's
I have found a few videos about this tool on YouTube and posts on forums and they have a similar experience with it. It just *****...
I did find 2 videos where guys have taken the 20v impact driver that has more power and converted them to 3/8" drive with dewalt anvils and I decided to try the swap and it's a win. The anvil did need a little bit of massaging to fit but it wasnt anything major.
The conversion is shorter, a bit lighter, and has the 3 lights on the front. Second picture shows them stacked and the difference in the noses
If you do electrical work this pair of Doyle scissors is awesome. I bought two for me to keep one in each of my tool bags and subsequently bought 3 more to give to the guys I work with.
Electricians Shears
Electricians Shears
Geez, now something else I have to go there and buy
I had to use a 2nd drill yesterday, in this case the 1/4" version. It had a distinct wobble at the end of the drill. So I'm changing my assessment to agree with the above:
FAIL!
DGersic
Well-known member
I’m going to rate this pressure tester as a pass, with a caveat.
The tester itself works fine. Recommended.
The caveat is that it includes a bunch of adapters, which may or may not fit whatever car you’re trying to use it on. All but two of them are some variation on a threaded cap with an O-ring seal. I don’t own anything that needs a threaded cap with an O-ring.
The remaining two adapters are “radiator cap” style. The kind with the tabs that fit on the housing, a big rubber seal on a spring to set the pressure at which it releases to the overflow tank. Both are the same diameter, something metric that I didn’t measure. One has a taller spring than the other, so would fit / seal a deeper radiator neck.
The shorter of these two fits my 2015 Camry. So that’s good.
None of these will fit any old US classic car.
There are three more generic threaded “plunger” adapters and a clip on winged thing intended to fit any other radiator cap / radiator neck. Select the size to fit the ID of the neck, thread it in to the thing, clip it in, and tighten to seal. A friend says that these work great with metal necks. He’s a professional, working mostly on muscle cars, so if he says that it works, I believe him. My own need, a Dakota, has a plastic radiator neck fitting, mounted in the middle of the upper hose.
For this, the winged clippy thing will not hold on. As the threaded part is tightened the clips pop off. I used it by wrapping a hose clamp around it, which kinda worked, but also kinda didn’t.
My other need takes essentially the same cap, but hood clearance is a problem, and even if the winged clippy thing would seal and hold, I can’t get the pressure pump on it to find out.
HF compares this kit to Astro Pneumatic. Looking at the AP kit, it looks like a much better kit. It is more expensive, but it includes more (and more useful) adapters, plus the tubes to test radiator caps.
I’ve upgraded my HF kit with Astro’s 2” radiator cap adapter.
This, for my current needs, is perfect. It fits the Dakota as well as the hot rod, seals for testing easily, without the hood clearance problem. It’s $25. If I add the radiator cap tester (I have had a cap spring lose tension, so being able to test that would have been helpful in the past), I’m almost at the price of the AP kit.
So, HF kit is a PASS, if it fits what you’re working on. And it’s a win over AP if you want it today and can go pick it up. But for a few $s more, if you have time for shipping, I think the AP kit is a better buy.
These (80x144 moving blankets) are still a fail.
I bought two new ones because I needed to move something delicate and I couldn't find any other moving blankets this size. I was holding it up with very little tension as I wrapped what I was moving up with stretch film and my finger went through it like toilet paper. I'm pretty sure I had the same look on my face as when that happens too.
You might get one use out of them, two if you're super careful. Oddly, I've had great success with the smaller black 40x72 moving blankets. Those are a solid pass.
The finger incident:
Different blanket, the previous incident where the blanket was given a tug and this part happened to be on a corner of what was being moved. Not a sharp metal corner, just a corner:
Stainless Submersible Pump
Pass. I used this for about 5 hours over the weekend to pump about 500-600 gallons of effluent under pressure from a septic dosing tank into a leach field. It worked and got it done and got me out of a crappy situation. It was more powerful and cheaper than similar pumps from the big box stores.
Pass. I used this for about 5 hours over the weekend to pump about 500-600 gallons of effluent under pressure from a septic dosing tank into a leach field. It worked and got it done and got me out of a crappy situation. It was more powerful and cheaper than similar pumps from the big box stores.
I bought this a few weeks ago and used it for the first time today and it’s great. As the name says it’s a pinch weld adapter for a floor jack. It works well and give the jack a solid connection to the car versus just putting jack pad on the metal seam.
Its magnetic so just be sure to retrieve it, it will stick to the car as you lower the jack.
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I was going to post a PASS for this item as well, thanks for saving me the work.
I bought this a few weeks ago and used it for the first time today and it’s great. As the name says it’s a pinch weld adapter for a floor jack. It works well and give the jack a solid connection to the car versus just putting jack pad on the metal seam.
Its magnetic so just be sure to retrieve it will stick to the car as you lower the jack.
Have a highlander that does not seem to have any horizontal surface on the rear subframe, to safely use a floor jack. Thought about using the usual "pinch weld" jacking area on the body, but that means dragging out (and using )the crank jack, then remember seeing this in the store.
Pretty handy I thought the magnetic held it to the jack, it actually holds it to the pinch weld.
Gotta give a fail to the icon dead blow ball pein hammers. I'm not a frequent hammer user but picked up one while they were on sale.
This may sound weird but the thing is so heavy and not at the head where you want it. If I want a 24oz hammer I want 95% of the weight in the head, not the handle. The overall weight of the hammer feels weird to me as the handle seems as heavy as the head.
Edit: Thought the hammer I bought was a 36oz but it's only a 24oz. It feels heavier and more unwieldy than the 32oz hickory handled ball bein I've had for 30 years. The 32oz I have has a handle about 3" longer as well.
This reminds me of many years ago when I did a stint as a sheet metal mechanic and bought a beautiful malco leather handled hammer. Much of the weight was in the shank and handle. I got to use another guys lowly wooden handled tin knockers hammer where all the weight was concentrated in the head. After that the fancy hammer was a spare and a lowly wood handled hammer was on deck.
Your mileage may vary but I would advise you to stay with another brand or a lowly wood or fiberglass handled hammer.
This may sound weird but the thing is so heavy and not at the head where you want it. If I want a 24oz hammer I want 95% of the weight in the head, not the handle. The overall weight of the hammer feels weird to me as the handle seems as heavy as the head.
Edit: Thought the hammer I bought was a 36oz but it's only a 24oz. It feels heavier and more unwieldy than the 32oz hickory handled ball bein I've had for 30 years. The 32oz I have has a handle about 3" longer as well.
This reminds me of many years ago when I did a stint as a sheet metal mechanic and bought a beautiful malco leather handled hammer. Much of the weight was in the shank and handle. I got to use another guys lowly wooden handled tin knockers hammer where all the weight was concentrated in the head. After that the fancy hammer was a spare and a lowly wood handled hammer was on deck.
Your mileage may vary but I would advise you to stay with another brand or a lowly wood or fiberglass handled hammer.
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mreisner
Well-known member
I've got one of those too and I'm really impressed with it.
I've been using these Icon lights for a few weeks now and they are pretty awesome for the money when on sale.
I picked up two and may get a third on the ride home. I've been using it in a mech room for 2 days at the moment and I honestly think it's as bright as my M18 light. The M18 lasts longer and appears to throw a larger spread but this little light appears a little brighter in your concentrated area.
I'm using it again this morning on low and it's been on for 2 1/2 hrs on low and still shows a full charge. I used it for about 3 hours on high yesterday and it still was 1/3 charged and I topped it off in the truck on the ride home last night and into the job this morning for day two.
Getting older ***** as you can't see squat in low light so I'm becoming a major fan of small cordless work lights.
I picked up two and may get a third on the ride home. I've been using it in a mech room for 2 days at the moment and I honestly think it's as bright as my M18 light. The M18 lasts longer and appears to throw a larger spread but this little light appears a little brighter in your concentrated area.
I'm using it again this morning on low and it's been on for 2 1/2 hrs on low and still shows a full charge. I used it for about 3 hours on high yesterday and it still was 1/3 charged and I topped it off in the truck on the ride home last night and into the job this morning for day two.
Getting older ***** as you can't see squat in low light so I'm becoming a major fan of small cordless work lights.
I've been using these Icon lights for a few weeks now and they are pretty awesome for the money when on sale.
I picked up two and may get a third on the ride home. I've been using it in a mech room for 2 days at the moment and I honestly think it's as bright as my M18 light. The M18 lasts longer and appears to throw a larger spread but this little light appears a little brighter in your concentrated area.
I'm using it again this morning on low and it's been on for 2 1/2 hrs on low and still shows a full charge. I used it for about 3 hours on high yesterday and it still was 1/3 charged and I topped it off in the truck on the ride home last night and into the job this morning for day two.
Getting older ***** as you can't see squat in low light so I'm becoming a major fan of small cordless work lights.
I agree. I bought one of the light bars that comes with one of them, then with a later coupon I bought another.
I machined some mounts and mounted the bar to my garage door with rivnuts. Now, when the door is open and blocks the overhead lights, I turn these on and I can point them exactly where I need them. The magnets are strong enough that they stay put when the door opens and closes. I can also just grab one whenever I need to use it somewhere else.
Attachments
Another FAIL on the 72 X 80 moving blankets/utility covers.
I tried using one for a seat cover on the back seat of my truck. I don't have any children nor do I work out of my truck. They literally start to disintegrate over time and turn to paint chips and dust bunnies.
I tried using one for a seat cover on the back seat of my truck. I don't have any children nor do I work out of my truck. They literally start to disintegrate over time and turn to paint chips and dust bunnies.
Daytonaer
Well-known member
The HF Doyle "premium flaring kit" 58981 is a major pass.
It is 45 degrees for plumbing, not inexpensive and includes a tubing cutter and chamfering tool which you may already have.
About the flaring part: the vice/tube bar has a very nice fit and finish, it never slipped and it didn't crush the tube. The actual die is integral to the press and interestingly is offset and on bearings. There is a spring detent so you know when the press is centered over the tube. The stamped steel silver part makes depth check easy. The clutch mechanism takes the guess out between not quite formed and so tight you just cracked the flare.
I just finished a project and the press was a joy to use. The cheap junk bar clamps/flare dies have made me work for years, this thing is so easy to use and consistently good it gives first try confidence and makes the tubing part of a project the fun part now.
The only downfall I see is the price: I had no need for another tubing cutter nor another deburring tool. I see clutch type flaring tools which look very similar on amazon for $25-35. May be worth considering, but I found through use and experience the Doyle is a quality tool.
It is 45 degrees for plumbing, not inexpensive and includes a tubing cutter and chamfering tool which you may already have.
About the flaring part: the vice/tube bar has a very nice fit and finish, it never slipped and it didn't crush the tube. The actual die is integral to the press and interestingly is offset and on bearings. There is a spring detent so you know when the press is centered over the tube. The stamped steel silver part makes depth check easy. The clutch mechanism takes the guess out between not quite formed and so tight you just cracked the flare.
I just finished a project and the press was a joy to use. The cheap junk bar clamps/flare dies have made me work for years, this thing is so easy to use and consistently good it gives first try confidence and makes the tubing part of a project the fun part now.
The only downfall I see is the price: I had no need for another tubing cutter nor another deburring tool. I see clutch type flaring tools which look very similar on amazon for $25-35. May be worth considering, but I found through use and experience the Doyle is a quality tool.
That’s a copy of a Rigid tool I first used borrowed off a coworker about 30 years ago. If it’s a good copy it will be a great tool as way the Rigid flared was unique. It was an eccentric die versus the typical cone.The HF Doyle "premium flaring kit" 58981 is a major pass.
It is 45 degrees for plumbing, not inexpensive and includes a tubing cutter and chamfering tool which you may already have.
About the flaring part: the vice/tube bar has a very nice fit and finish, it never slipped and it didn't crush the tube. The actual die is integral to the press and interestingly is offset and on bearings. There is a spring detent so you know when the press is centered over the tube. The stamped steel silver part makes depth check easy. The clutch mechanism takes the guess out between not quite formed and so tight you just cracked the flare.
I just finished a project and the press was a joy to use. The cheap junk bar clamps/flare dies have made me work for years, this thing is so easy to use and consistently good it gives first try confidence and makes the tubing part of a project the fun part now.
The only downfall I see is the price: I had no need for another tubing cutter nor another deburring tool. I see clutch type flaring tools which look very similar on amazon for $25-35. May be worth considering, but I found through use and experience the Doyle is a quality tool.
Armstrong 23”-65” TV VESA compliant wall mount.
Initially I was going to give it a FAIL. 40” Hisense tv should be no problem. Bolt holes don’t match
Turn the plate 90 degrees and holes match but now it won’t mount right the two bolts need to be up
Come to discover the tv is not even “VESA mount compliant “ (even though it says it is) since the holes are actually 100x200 mm where the standard hole layout is square (100x100 200x200 etc) figured I’d have to deal with that with any other amount I was going to purchase (HF has a smaller one on sale for eight dollars) got to looking at the adapters and it looked like they seem to have a lot of holes in them
Using the extra brackets and spacers, I was able to get all the holes to lineup perfectly so it looks like it’s a go. Maybe it wasn’t designed to be used this way but oh well.
No choice, but to be fair give it a PASS It’s a very solid TV mount otherwise and looks nice.
Initially I was going to give it a FAIL. 40” Hisense tv should be no problem. Bolt holes don’t match
Turn the plate 90 degrees and holes match but now it won’t mount right the two bolts need to be up
Come to discover the tv is not even “VESA mount compliant “ (even though it says it is) since the holes are actually 100x200 mm where the standard hole layout is square (100x100 200x200 etc) figured I’d have to deal with that with any other amount I was going to purchase (HF has a smaller one on sale for eight dollars) got to looking at the adapters and it looked like they seem to have a lot of holes in them
Using the extra brackets and spacers, I was able to get all the holes to lineup perfectly so it looks like it’s a go. Maybe it wasn’t designed to be used this way but oh well.
No choice, but to be fair give it a PASS It’s a very solid TV mount otherwise and looks nice.
there are a lots of Chinese eccentric flaring dies around. I've got one, and it makes good ends. but like all flaring tools like that, getting the tube in right is fiddly.
DGersic
Well-known member
Adjustable Mobile Base: Pass
https://www.harborfreight.com/500-lb-capacity-universal-mobile-base-70222.html
The four corner weldments are nice. The casters and locking/lifting mechanism are worth the $50. I couldn’t build it for $50.
The four side rails are two shallow C shapes, nested, so it’s adjustable to larger dimensions in both directions. Since the weight sits on the corners, the side rails aren’t supporting anything, just keeping the corners in place.
It’s pretty nice, reasonably well made, and seems like it’ll do the job.
https://www.harborfreight.com/500-lb-capacity-universal-mobile-base-70222.html
The four corner weldments are nice. The casters and locking/lifting mechanism are worth the $50. I couldn’t build it for $50.
The four side rails are two shallow C shapes, nested, so it’s adjustable to larger dimensions in both directions. Since the weight sits on the corners, the side rails aren’t supporting anything, just keeping the corners in place.
It’s pretty nice, reasonably well made, and seems like it’ll do the job.
19 rivets in and it quit working.
shoggoth80
Well-known member
Couple additions.
Maddox Back Probe kit. Pass. It's inexpensive, and functions as intended.
Daytona low profile 3 ton. Pass. Made my life way easier. Still need to snag the pinch weld adapter when it's in stock.
Maddox valve spring compressor. The small hand/ratchet one. Pass. Used it to disassemble busted heads at work to strip them for spare parts. Also used it to assemble some cores. Not the fastest, but I'm not flat rate. It works, and very affordable.
Maddox Back Probe kit. Pass. It's inexpensive, and functions as intended.
Daytona low profile 3 ton. Pass. Made my life way easier. Still need to snag the pinch weld adapter when it's in stock.
Maddox valve spring compressor. The small hand/ratchet one. Pass. Used it to disassemble busted heads at work to strip them for spare parts. Also used it to assemble some cores. Not the fastest, but I'm not flat rate. It works, and very affordable.
Adjustable Mobile Base: Pass
https://www.harborfreight.com/500-lb-capacity-universal-mobile-base-70222.html
The four corner weldments are nice. The casters and locking/lifting mechanism are worth the $50. I couldn’t build it for $50.
The four side rails are two shallow C shapes, nested, so it’s adjustable to larger dimensions in both directions. Since the weight sits on the corners, the side rails aren’t supporting anything, just keeping the corners in place.
It’s pretty nice, reasonably well made, and seems like it’ll do the job.
Ooohhh....I need one of those for my drill press. Thanks for the review!
Here's my opinion after using these tools a few months.
I need to reiterate these Icon lights get a pass and are awesome when bought on sale.
Awesome Light
I bought 3 of them thus far and my only regret is when I bought the first one it was for $25 on sale I wish I immediately bought 4 of them in one shot. They are small enough I throw them all in my canvas sack and take them with me versus a larger M18 light.
When you feel like a troll in a boiler or mechanical room light is your friend. Using 2 of them in the pic below. I just wish they were a color other than black so they stand out because I foresee losing them when they die and I forget they were there.
Big fail for these.
Icon Stripper Crimper
All the online tool review guys will say they are great. I strip wires more days of the week than I don't and the sizing is off. This is the first tool I tried and then returned in years.
I you want a tool like this get the Kleins also pictured here. They are made in the USA, work substantially better and are cheaper.
Proof they ****
Next these get a meah.
Doyle forged strippers
They work and are cheap with a coupon. That being said I have a pair of Klein and a pair of Channellock forged strippers. They are substantially more expensive than the Doyle and I would buy them again in a heartbeat over the Doyle. They are noticeably better. The handles on the Doyle feel huge for the purpose of the tool. If you have big hands maybe that won't stand out to you as much. I will probably leave the Doyles in the office service tech room with a free sign.
Next these get a major pass.
Icon Flush Cutters
I like these to the point I now own 3 off them. I keep one in each of my bags. They were all bought with a coupon. I tried to buy an American made set of flush cutters and bought a pair of Channellock and unfortunately they **** so I doubled down on the Icons. Don't mention Snap On because I'm not spending that much to leave them in a motor starter, vfd or panel somewhere.
Next item is a pass and is a light but not as great as the first light I posted.
800 Lumen stick light
I also bought this on sale and paid $20 for it. I have since bought a second one for my home garage but the blue one lives in my PC tool pack.
I need to reiterate these Icon lights get a pass and are awesome when bought on sale.
Awesome Light
I bought 3 of them thus far and my only regret is when I bought the first one it was for $25 on sale I wish I immediately bought 4 of them in one shot. They are small enough I throw them all in my canvas sack and take them with me versus a larger M18 light.
When you feel like a troll in a boiler or mechanical room light is your friend. Using 2 of them in the pic below. I just wish they were a color other than black so they stand out because I foresee losing them when they die and I forget they were there.
Big fail for these.
Icon Stripper Crimper
All the online tool review guys will say they are great. I strip wires more days of the week than I don't and the sizing is off. This is the first tool I tried and then returned in years.
I you want a tool like this get the Kleins also pictured here. They are made in the USA, work substantially better and are cheaper.
Proof they ****
Next these get a meah.
Doyle forged strippers
They work and are cheap with a coupon. That being said I have a pair of Klein and a pair of Channellock forged strippers. They are substantially more expensive than the Doyle and I would buy them again in a heartbeat over the Doyle. They are noticeably better. The handles on the Doyle feel huge for the purpose of the tool. If you have big hands maybe that won't stand out to you as much. I will probably leave the Doyles in the office service tech room with a free sign.
Next these get a major pass.
Icon Flush Cutters
I like these to the point I now own 3 off them. I keep one in each of my bags. They were all bought with a coupon. I tried to buy an American made set of flush cutters and bought a pair of Channellock and unfortunately they **** so I doubled down on the Icons. Don't mention Snap On because I'm not spending that much to leave them in a motor starter, vfd or panel somewhere.
Next item is a pass and is a light but not as great as the first light I posted.
800 Lumen stick light
I also bought this on sale and paid $20 for it. I have since bought a second one for my home garage but the blue one lives in my PC tool pack.
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dante2
Well-known member
I'm going to give these a fail. I was trying to hold a drawer slide level to mark it and every time I get close with the level the magnet let go. They claim a 10lb working load but it must spread across the 4 magnets. I've had them for quite a few years and on a flat surface they're not bad but they're definitely vertically challenged. Does a magnet age out?
ChevyEFI
Well-known member
Buy a new set. Take the old back, spend $20 in gas and let us know.
Prob not age related. I bought that set as well because I liked the larger ones they have and had a similar experience. They aren't very strong.
lolaetype
Well-known member
I bought one of these today:
Fail. Even when tightly clamped on what you want to cut, the end that slides moves side to side about 1/8" which, IMO, would mess up a precise cut. The arrow points to the end of the clamp that moves side to side. I guess I'll go back to clamping an aluminum angle on what I plan to cut.
Fail. Even when tightly clamped on what you want to cut, the end that slides moves side to side about 1/8" which, IMO, would mess up a precise cut. The arrow points to the end of the clamp that moves side to side. I guess I'll go back to clamping an aluminum angle on what I plan to cut.
DGersic
Well-known member
I bought one of these today:
Fail. Even when tightly clamped on what you want to cut, the end that slides moves side to side about 1/8" which, IMO, would mess up a precise cut. The arrow points to the end of the clamp that moves side to side. I guess I'll go back to clamping an aluminum angle on what I plan to cut.
Thanks. I keep considering buying one of those for when I need to break down a sheet with a circular saw. I normally use a piece of bedframe angle “steel” and some clamps. I guess I’ll keep doing that.
Maybe 1/8” isn’t too bad, though. Rough cut down to approximate size before making final cuts with something more precise than a circular saw?
gearhead1960
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Worked on Ric today and needed a fuel line disconnect tool as it's a pressurized line. Saw on the 'tube that life would be easier with a Fuel Line Disconnect Tool. For the money ($7.99) it is a definite PASS. Even if I never use it again.
These are a fail Doyle Pump pliers
I had to run some larger conduit today and my normal 10" Knipex wouldn't cover it so I busted out a pair of 12" Doyle's I picked up on sale.
They truly **** compared to my 10" Knipex. Once I got home today I looked in my plier drawer and do have a single pair of 12" Knipex I will compare them tomorrow.
The jaw movement for the limited throw of the handles on the Doyle's is off compared to the 10" Knipex. I suspect it will even be worse for the 12" Knipex.
Edit: I compared them to my 12" Knipex this morning and I was right. There literally twice the range of movement with the Knipex jaws starting at the same opening width. When the Knipex are in the sweet spot the handles are also closer together. Both pliers pictured below have their handles closed all the way. Look how wide the Doyle’s handles are still open. This makes them uncomfortable to use in comparison.
I know you can buy 3 Doyle pump pliers for the price of one Knipex but if you actually use tools and aren't tight on funds the Knipex are worth it.
The Doyle pliers will probably be given away and I'll pony up and buy a second 12" Knipex.
I had to run some larger conduit today and my normal 10" Knipex wouldn't cover it so I busted out a pair of 12" Doyle's I picked up on sale.
They truly **** compared to my 10" Knipex. Once I got home today I looked in my plier drawer and do have a single pair of 12" Knipex I will compare them tomorrow.
The jaw movement for the limited throw of the handles on the Doyle's is off compared to the 10" Knipex. I suspect it will even be worse for the 12" Knipex.
Edit: I compared them to my 12" Knipex this morning and I was right. There literally twice the range of movement with the Knipex jaws starting at the same opening width. When the Knipex are in the sweet spot the handles are also closer together. Both pliers pictured below have their handles closed all the way. Look how wide the Doyle’s handles are still open. This makes them uncomfortable to use in comparison.
I know you can buy 3 Doyle pump pliers for the price of one Knipex but if you actually use tools and aren't tight on funds the Knipex are worth it.
The Doyle pliers will probably be given away and I'll pony up and buy a second 12" Knipex.
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I hate to bump this but those Doyle pump pliers either broke or were defective from the get go. No a good sign when you have an issue with them for a first time use.
I was showing them to a coworker that showed up today and we noticed it was just the one pair had the issue you couldn't close the handles all the way.
I still say they are no comparison to Knipex but just a 60% as good rendition. That last 40% makes a difference to me even at 3 times the price.
Harbor Freight did swap them for me no issues on my ride home from work. I ordered a second pair of 12" Knipex and will probably give the Doyles to an apprentice.
I was showing them to a coworker that showed up today and we noticed it was just the one pair had the issue you couldn't close the handles all the way.
I still say they are no comparison to Knipex but just a 60% as good rendition. That last 40% makes a difference to me even at 3 times the price.
Harbor Freight did swap them for me no issues on my ride home from work. I ordered a second pair of 12" Knipex and will probably give the Doyles to an apprentice.
XJSuperman
Well-known member
Grabbed a 1/2" pipe cutter the other day and have used it a few times. I was pleasantly surprised by how well it did compared to the much nicer and more expensive one I had from Lennox. I'd give it a pass.
https://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-tubing-cutter-65791.html
I am also confident that while the link lists it at $7.99, I did not pay half of that. It was only a couple bucks.
https://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-tubing-cutter-65791.html
I am also confident that while the link lists it at $7.99, I did not pay half of that. It was only a couple bucks.
emeraldcoupe
Well-known member
5.3 Amp, 1/2 in. x 18 in. Bandfile Belt Sander
Amazing deals on this 5.3Amp 1/2In Bandfile Belt Sander at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
pass. it's corded so it's a little big but it works great.