The Harbor Freight PASS/FAIL Thread...

[subarub4]

Well no amp outputs 1500W at once.. I'm only going to be powering 2 speakers which is undersized considering the park we are going to.. But I'm not going to get stuck bringing back all this stuff on my own...

Speaking of that i should of got a 2 gal gas can instead of 1 gal.. I used 93 to fill the generator up.

I'm not too sure how long the gas is going to last me since they say 5 hr at 50% This is going to be like a 7 hr thing.

 

[subarub4]

So I was looking at HF reviews and they keep on file all the past stuff HF used to sell..

Man what the hell happened here? This honda clone would be nice..

http://hfreviews.com/item.php?id=8237

 

[bimmerZ5]

So I was looking at HF reviews and they keep on file all the past stuff HF used to sell..

Man what the hell happened here? This honda clone would be nice..

http://hfreviews.com/item.php?id=8237

I've never seen that website before until now. Looking around, it looks like HFT had item numbers for IR2135 and the IR ThunderGun:

http://hfreviews.com/item.php?id=1421

http://hfreviews.com/item.php?id=1716

I think the 1/2" Earthquake Impact is basically a clone of the IR ThunderGun... but I didn't know they use to sell them too, is that right? (i've only been a HFT shopper for about 2 yrs or so..)

 

[subarub4]

I hear it's a clone of the Florida pneumatic as well..

 

[soob]

Who all has the 2.5 HP 21 gal. compressors?

It's a PASS for me

I've had the new black one for 4 months now, still works great! I probably fill up the tank 2-3 times per week (on average).

I have one, have had it for maybe a month. I'm really glad I got the bigger tank. It's the best compressor I've ever owned, though that's not saying much. It seems solid to me but time will tell.

 

[uc4me]

i had to put my odyssey kunckles in press and press the rotor off. the rotor snapped before the screw broke.

Why not just drill the screws until the heads come off

 

[SpiderGearsMan]

press the rotor off ? oh fail , hammer on it till it breaks

 

[greasemonkey44]

Why not just drill the screws until the heads come off

thats a very valid question, i always drill the heads off the stuck ones for brake service; they are really soft and drill very fast

 

[fitz11]

#46887 wrench organizer PASS
Works great for keeping most wrenches organized. I cut off the allen holders to make space for adjustable wrenches. AND made in the USA!!

http://www.harborfreight.com/76-piece-wrench-organizer-46884.html

 

[bimmerZ5]

#46887 ... AND made in the USA!!

you know that statement is going to require proof considering this is an HFT thread...

 

[fitz11]

Haha ok ill get a pic next time I'm out in the garage

 

[JAKE-THE-TOOL-MAN]

Pittsburgh Professional pliers big PASS! I own lots of reputable USA brand pliers and these are just as strong. Great bang for the buck and great feel. I own all of the pliers they sell and don't have a single complaint.

Pittsburgh Professional Slip Joint Pliers PASS! Granted they aren't as nice as Knipex they are definitely equivalent to Channel Lock

Pittsburgh Pro Vice Grips FAIL they don't grip lock or adjust well at all. Compared to the Vice Grip brand they are garbage. Even the cheaper Harbor Freight models are better.

 

[JAKE-THE-TOOL-MAN]

U.S. General 2.5 CFM Vacuum Pump PASS! The shop I work at uses this Pump on an every day basis in the Summer, hasn't had any trouble the 2 years I've worked there and it's been around before my time


http://www.harborfreight.com/25-cfm-vacuum-pump-98076.html

 

[subarub4]

U.S. General 2.5 CFM Vacuum Pump PASS! The shop I work at uses this Pump on an every day basis in the Summer, hasn't had any trouble the 2 years I've worked there and it's been around before my time


http://www.harborfreight.com/25-cfm-vacuum-pump-98076.html

This item and the 10 gal air compressor along with the R134a compound gauges was one of my first HF purchases at a B&M store.. I spent like $400 something in like 30 min of shopping and somehow lost the receipt walking out to the car (it was in Feb so windy)

 

[787B]

Final Pass

I'm sitting in my home office right now on this 96 degree day with the window A/C keeping me cool since 5:30 when everybody else in the county got home, switched on their A/Cs and blew up a transformer somewhere.

No sweat (pun intended), whip out the $64 mini generator, run an extension cord up to the window, plug in the A/C, a light, and my laptop and cable modem and here I sit with power, light, beer, and Internet.

Generators been pumping away a steady 500+ Watts for the last two hours without any problem. It's been stored since November, gas still in it (but Sta-bil'd and carb run dry). Once I remembered to open the fuel petcock, it started on the second pull. This one's a winner.

Hmm. Revising this to a Marginal Pass

Once again, hot as hell day, power goes out at 9 PM while the thermometer is still registering 87 degrees. No problem, pull out the generator, gas it up, run the extension cord up to the office window, plug in the A/C and light and we're good to go. Got air, cold beer, light, and Internet.

But now my Kill-A-Watt is showing only about 105 Volts, 465 Watts, 0.92 PF, 60 Hz. If I plug in the charger for the laptop, the voltage drops to 99 Volts even though Watts only goes to 495. PF goes up a little and frequency drops 3 Hz. Maybe I need to tweak the governor? Still a hell of a bargain for the $64 I paid...

 

[SQ is the SQUAD]

are you sure its not the extention cord?

 

[subarub4]

I'm sorry I never really trusted those Kill-a-watts

And it's showing 105 V with the A/C connected and running? What size is it?

 

[soob]

I used a bunch of those HF sanding sponges to scuff up gloss trim before repainting. They worked well: lasted a long time and didn't transfer any black dye like cheap ones sometimes do. I'm not sure how coarse the coarse ones really are, but they worked well for what I did--may not cut wood so well, though.

Here's a coupon for the 10-pack for $2. Definitely a deal at that price. Make sure the number is readable in case the bar code doesn't print sharp enough.

 

[subarub4]

Just set-up the engine crane, not bad...

So far pass

Not going to be fun bringing it back up 3 shallow steps with 157 Lb...

Steps in the background

 

[787B]

are you sure its not the extention cord?

I'm sorry I never really trusted those Kill-a-watts
And it's showing 105 V with the A/C connected and running? What size is it?

You guys raise good questions, so I whipped out my FLUKE 187 multimeter. I'm losing about 1 volt through the extension cord. The Kill-A-Watt is reading almost exactly the same voltage and frequency as the FLUKE. So, I think you can trust a Kill-A-Watt.

There is a phillips screw on the right side (looking at the control panel) just below the gas tank. It is the adjustment for the governor. Gave it 1-1/2 turns and now I'm getting 110 Volts at 500 Watts. I'm testing as I type as power blew again tonight, so I'm on the genny for another evening. But, again, still have light, A/C, computer, cold beer, and Internet!

Though tonight the cable Internet died too. I don't think their backup batteries recovered from last night. Or BGE borked it while trying to repair the power lines. Everything is on the same poles where I live. So tonight I'm tethering through my "unlimited" cellular service.

Anywho, the genny is back to a Final Pass.

 

[787B]

Just set-up the engine crane, not bad...

So far pass

Not going to be fun bringing it back up 3 shallow steps with 157 Lb...

Ouch. Subie, save your back and take the thing apart so you can take it up the stairs in pieces. Not worth getting hurt.

 

[subarub4]

You guys raise good questions, so I whipped out my FLUKE 187 multimeter. I'm losing about 1 volt through the extension cord. The Kill-A-Watt is reading almost exactly the same voltage and frequency as the FLUKE. So, I think you can trust a Kill-A-Watt.

There is a phillips screw on the right side (looking at the control panel) just below the gas tank. It is the adjustment for the governor. Gave it 1-1/2 turns and now I'm getting 110 Volts at 500 Watts. I'm testing as I type as power blew again tonight, so I'm on the genny for another evening. But, again, still have light, A/C, computer, cold beer, and Internet!

Though tonight the cable Internet died too. I don't think their backup batteries recovered from last night. Or BGE borked it while trying to repair the power lines. Everything is on the same poles where I live. So tonight I'm tethering through my "unlimited" cellular service.

Anywho, the genny is back to a Final Pass.

I went to use my generator outside yesterday to have two fans blowing on me.. both fans are about 1.7 A Anyways the voltage from the generator was 106 V Seems like it went down some since I first ran it from the box. The two fans hardly loaded up the generator at all.

 

[subarub4]

Ouch. Subie, save your back and take the thing apart so you can take it up the stairs in pieces. Not worth getting hurt.

I may if I cant get it up the steps I will try that.. took a little less then an hour to put it all together.

 

[Danglerb]

Trust the Killawatt, and from your experience I'd say use it to make sure volts and hz are where they should be.

Inverter I tried and returned also showed a low voltage, but within the range I would assume most devices would still work. I wonder if HF doesn't set voltages at the minimum working level to put less stress on their junk?

 

[Danglerb]

Ouch. Subie, save your back and take the thing apart so you can take it up the stairs in pieces. Not worth getting hurt.

Load leveler is really useful in engine pulls. You can use a SHORT chain that goes straight down to the lift points, and that prevents smashing stuff if a single chain is used across the top, and give more clearance between the arm and hood, plus greater lifting height. Leveler can tilt the motor as it goes up by cranking the lift point back and forth, very handy.

I wouldn't totally disassemble the crane, but remove all the easy stuff, legs and boom extension, otherwise they can flop around and bonk you. Also tip it over with the top on steps, then lift the bottom and slide it up, then tilt back up.

 

[subarub4]

Heh my subie friends says the engine leveller was not really needed since the engine is only 350Lb at best and easy to move with one hand..
I already know it's going to take some effort to get the pins to slide off trying to break the seal between the engine and the transmission.

I still need a engine stand.. I saw the 750 lb one at HF but with only one wheel in the front how does it do with weight on it? Seems like it would tip pretty easy.


and one of the legs did pop me in the side of my mouth yesterday

 

[787B]

Trust the Killawatt, and from your experience I'd say use it to make sure volts and hz are where they should be.

Inverter I tried and returned also showed a low voltage, but within the range I would assume most devices would still work. I wonder if HF doesn't set voltages at the minimum working level to put less stress on their junk?

The genny was making 120+ right out of the box, check my first "preliminary pass" post on that one. I think as it wears in things just stretch a little. I could see how the governor springs probably stretch a bit, and there are a dozen other little minor wear things might need to settle in.

Power is back on at the moment. Been up and mostly down a couple times today in the 100+ heat. Right now the power company is seriously undervolting us to ease the load on the lines. Kill-A-Watt and Fluke agree BGE is only giving us 100 Volts right now. Good enough! They did this to us earlier this Summer in that first really hot spell. Left it undervolted to about 105 Volts for two days. I know it's on-purpose and not line losses because it doesn't go up in the pre-dawn hours when it cool out and nobody is up yet.

I'm mixing up a fresh batch of premix for the generator, just in case.

 

[subarub4]

I'm going to go load up the generator with a heater or something to see if it picks up the voltage since two fans are hardly anything at all.. with them both on it was still running like it had no load on it

next Sunday I have to take it out to the park so it's going to be in use for like 7-8 hours

 

[bimmerZ5]

i know this is minor, but this mud pan is totally awesome... i paid more at Home Depot for a plastic one that just *****:

PASS: http://www.harborfreight.com/52-oz-mud-pan-42620.html

for anyone doing some drywall repair or finishing their garage walls with drywall, DO NOT EVER get the plastic mud pans.... they are worthless and cause more frustration than they are worth. Spend less and get this stainless one and you'll be happy. I only wish they made one that was longer, but this will fit a 12" knife; just not the 14".

If you want to know, the plastic one ***** because:

1. the plastic is softer than the blades you'll use which ends up scratching the plastic and you'll get little strips of red plastic in your mud. the problem with this is that those little plastic particles will drag under the mud creating streaks in on your drywall (which you'll have to sand down later)

2. the plastic pan uses two metal strips for you to clean your blade on. there are two problems with this: (a) there's a finish on the metal strips (probably to prevent corrosion) that flake off and these flakes end up in the mud and again drag under your blade and create streaks. and (b) mud management in the pan is going to be a pain because there's a bit of mud between the metal strip and the plastic base that you won't be able to wipe clean all the time... so these little bits of mud will start to dry quickly and eventually end up in the rest of your mud... and again, when you apply this to the wall, the dried chunks will drag under the blade creating streaks in your finish.

Home Depot with the plastic mud pan is massive fail. The stainless one at HFT is awesome PASS.

 

[nuclearlemon]

I still need a engine stand.. I saw the 750 lb one at HF but with only one wheel in the front how does it do with weight on it? Seems like it would tip pretty easy.

don't know about the harbor freight ones, but a friend had one with the single front leg and it went over with the freshly rebuilt engine for his vette when he tried to move it.

i've got a v shaped one and it's not a lot better. get a u shaped stand unless the stand wont ever move with an engine on it.

 

[subarub4]

Wow that *****.. i figured something like that would happen..

Mine wont be moving far maybe 15 ft from the car

 

[scott37300]

Wow that *****.. i figured something like that would happen..

Mine wont be moving far maybe 15 ft from the car

Spend the extra 10 bucks and get the 1000 pound stand that has 4 wheels on it. http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-stand-32916.html Much more stable than the 3 wheeler. I have one and have had a 5.4 triton on it for about 4 years now and it's been fine. It's not the greatest stand, hard to rotate engine and it takes a little bit to move it around the garage loaded but for the money it gets the job done.

 

[Danglerb]

HF also has very nice looking 1 ton engine stand for about $110 before coupon.

Do not get the T style base engine stand.

None of the engine stands say its safe to move them with a block attached.

One of my friends had an old Subaru with the flat 4 engine. To pull it we took off the hood and with one foot on each fender just lifted it out.

 

[bimmerZ5]

this is onsale thru ITC coupon and I was wondering if anyone has this and what your opinion is:

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-ei...inch-dual-drive-extendable-ratchet-98802.html

 

[subarub4]

HF also has very nice looking 1 ton engine stand for about $110 before coupon.

Do not get the T style base engine stand.

None of the engine stands say its safe to move them with a block attached.

One of my friends had an old Subaru with the flat 4 engine. To pull it we took off the hood and with one foot on each fender just lifted it out.

How old was the Subaru you know the hood has two positions to stand up.. one for doing stuff like removing the engine..

not the greatest picture but here you go

 

[subarub4]

Spend the extra 10 bucks and get the 1000 pound stand that has 4 wheels on it. http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-stand-32916.html Much more stable than the 3 wheeler. I have one and have had a 5.4 triton on it for about 4 years now and it's been fine. It's not the greatest stand, hard to rotate engine and it takes a little bit to move it around the garage loaded but for the money it gets the job done.

Can we use the 20% off on the engine stands? because I had a coupon for the 750 Lb one

 

[ytlas]

My two cents here...

I don't like the looks of the HF 750lb engine stand. My "T" engine stand is over 30 years old from a different company and it's had a few small block Chevy engines on it and never had a problem, although I rarely moved it more than 10' with an engine on it.

Ideally a person would have an engine dolly to move the engine from place to place. We have homemade engine dollies made from square tubing and all welded up. I have seen people make an engine dolly from 2x4's and carriage bolts and have even read where people use HF mover's dolly to move and store engines. (Might have read it in earlier threads here.) I'm not endorsing the HF mover's dolly to move engines, just that I've read of it being done before.

 

[fxt]

i used the 750lb stand to change head gaskets on my buddys 2000 impreza. didn't have a problem with it. rotated fine without issue. even with one head on and the other off.

going to use it again coming up for some more work on another subaru engine

 

[scott37300]

Can we use the 20% off on the engine stands? because I had a coupon for the 750 Lb one

As far as I know the 20% should work on it. Even if you have a coupon for the 750 pound one it's not worth it!

 

[subarub4]

Has anything tried any of the micrometers?

and I have some left over 20% coupons