well, kinda. ya have to compare it to something .
no, i am not expecting the $799 box to be as good as a $4000 box.
but actually, for the money, if not overloaded, its BETTER than a truck box.
The Harbor Freight PASS/FAIL Thread...
- Thread starter Bolster
- Start date
well, kinda. ya have to compare it to something .
no, i am not expecting the $799 box to be as good as a $4000 box.
but actually, for the money, if not overloaded, its BETTER than a truck box.
is anyone using one of these ratchets ?
how are they ? i bought one, and it seems pretty nice. but it may be a pos, idk.
http://www.harborfreight.com/mercha...h-inch-ratchet-with-indexable-head-96092.html
how are they ? i bought one, and it seems pretty nice. but it may be a pos, idk.
http://www.harborfreight.com/mercha...h-inch-ratchet-with-indexable-head-96092.html
thesilverone
Well-known member
I'm going to compare a kia to a ferrari
I'll share my results later
I'll share my results later
I like my 1/4-3/8" version of same 98802-link but the collar for adjusting length is a little sticky. Can only give it four stars. Agree on the heft and the nice feel of the 72 tooth.
I should probably step up to 1/2 for breaking loose brake bracket bolts. Like that I can get it just long enough for enough leverage while still working inside a fender liner or other confined space.
I have one and like it a lot. That said it is specialty tool. You aren't going to use it a ton.
have you ever beat on it ? the bolts that i would be using it on, can sometimes be very tight.
yep, it won't be used a lot at all. i could have used it the other day. instead, i used a half moon wrench with a hex socket & 1/2" drive ratchet on the other end.
babewatcher
Well-known member
Can you tell us what you were working on-- just out of curiosity?
taking a upper bolt out of the transfer case/trans of a older explorer. the exhaust is right close, and it is hard to get up there. + they put loctight on the bolts. AND with the road salt on the aluminum and steel bolts, things can get ugly.
yeah, it would be nice to just take the exhaust out. but the stuff gets so rusted, that it a whole nuther job and a "can of worms".
this particular (pos)truck. i had to take off one piece of the exhaust, it goes right under the trans, and must come off. the exhaust studs where sooooo rusted, it took me a while. and i am pretty good at getting rusted studs out.
i ran a tap to clean up the manifold threads, it was almost like i was taping a new hole.
babewatcher
Well-known member
Ahh, something I would never run into. Thanks for the info.
John316
Well-known member
3/8 Torque Wrench - FAIL
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eighth-inch-drive-click-stop-torque-wrench-807.html
Bought one and opened it when I got home and it had some deep scratches on the ratchet and fingerprints all over it. I did not use it but returned it because it looked like a return item. Opened the second wrench and it clicks at 30flbs when set to 40ftlbs= off 25%, even after trying to reset the thing. Took it back. Oh well what was I thinking for trying a $15 click torque wrench.
On a side note, I have an older Pittsburgh 1/2 torque wrench that is better quality than the ones they sell now. It came in a red case and has a nicer finish. Best of all it still checks right on when checking against a beam wrench or my torque adapter. Paid $20 for it then.
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eighth-inch-drive-click-stop-torque-wrench-807.html
Bought one and opened it when I got home and it had some deep scratches on the ratchet and fingerprints all over it. I did not use it but returned it because it looked like a return item. Opened the second wrench and it clicks at 30flbs when set to 40ftlbs= off 25%, even after trying to reset the thing. Took it back. Oh well what was I thinking for trying a $15 click torque wrench.
On a side note, I have an older Pittsburgh 1/2 torque wrench that is better quality than the ones they sell now. It came in a red case and has a nicer finish. Best of all it still checks right on when checking against a beam wrench or my torque adapter. Paid $20 for it then.
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that is why you HAVE to open EVERYTHING before going to the register.
i bought the 3/8 and 1/4" yesterday. while i have not compare tested them yet. they seemed to be fairly accurate. and fairly well built. if they don't test good, back they go.
i bought the 3/8 and 1/4" yesterday. while i have not compare tested them yet. they seemed to be fairly accurate. and fairly well built. if they don't test good, back they go.
greasemonkey44
Well-known member
anyone use the 66829
front wheel bearing adapters
i was wanting one so i could do faster bearing service on cars
but can you use it to pull the hub as well or what?
if not how have you been pulling the hubs?
anyway just looking at a better way than using a press
front wheel bearing adapters
i was wanting one so i could do faster bearing service on cars
but can you use it to pull the hub as well or what?
if not how have you been pulling the hubs?
anyway just looking at a better way than using a press
Sodder
Well-known member
Haven't seen this one yet.
12 Piece Needle File Set - PASS
$1.99 for ITC members.
You wont be able to hog out a lot of material due to the cut on these files but for what they are they work.
I just finished cleaning up a lot of holes and they seem to be holding up alright.
12 Piece Needle File Set - PASS
$1.99 for ITC members.
You wont be able to hog out a lot of material due to the cut on these files but for what they are they work.
I just finished cleaning up a lot of holes and they seem to be holding up alright.
I have that kit and it's great for the money, especially for 90 bucks minus the 20% coupon. I pull the hubs with a slide hammer. From there, the kit is all you need. Grease the threads and run the impact on the nut and not the pinned in "bolt head" of the jack screw and it works fine.
Lt CHEG
Well-known member
I am pleased with the Pittsburgh Pro deep well 10 piece impact socket sets. I have both the SAE and Metric and they seem to be really nice sockets. I didn't have any impacts when I bought my Snap On MG725, so I figured I could get something on the cheap to hold me over until I could afford something nicer. I've only used them on lug nuts and on the nut that attaches my lawn mower blade to my lawn mower but they seem really nice. When I get my last brush hogging done this year I'm going to get a Pittsburgh Pro Impact socket of the appropriate size to take apart my brush hog blades. That should be a decent test and I'll report back with any problems.
16 piece wrench rack - total FAIL.
Single biggest POS in the store.
http://www.harborfreight.com/16-piece-wrench-rack-36930.html
Single biggest POS in the store.
http://www.harborfreight.com/16-piece-wrench-rack-36930.html
I have had one for a short while and have used it 4-5 times.
It's smooth, convenient and for as many times as it will be used, worth the bucks IMO.
I mainly bought it to see if it would give me some help on and almost impossible angle on a bell housing bolt. Too tight to get a swivel on it or a wrench. I put this ratchet in almost a "V" angle and eased it in between the firewall and the bell housing. It just fit and worked perfectly.
i used mine today. its a pretty nice ratchet. i actually tried to break it. i didn't put a pipe on it, on whatnot. i just put most of my strength into it, and it held fine. and i am not a sissy.
what i DON'T like about it = the way the handle angles up. this limits the amount of torque than can be put into it. i bet they make it like that for that reason.
btw. matco has one for $99. i didn't see it, but i am sure it is much nicer.
why were you taking out a bellhousing bolt ? engine r&r ? what car ?
1969 C20 Chevy truck, doing a th350 rebuild
I like the ratchet and for the bucks it's cheap enough to see if I like an indexing ratchet without spending $$$.
Bolt I was dealing with is on the driver side. Easy to get to, not really enough room to move a wrench on and a swivel hit it at too much of an angle to allow the socket to fit the fastener properly and still turn without possibly rounding the head.
I have a second battery (mainly for the winch) mounted on the firewall so things are a little cramped where the bolt is
I like the ratchet and for the bucks it's cheap enough to see if I like an indexing ratchet without spending $$$.
Bolt I was dealing with is on the driver side. Easy to get to, not really enough room to move a wrench on and a swivel hit it at too much of an angle to allow the socket to fit the fastener properly and still turn without possibly rounding the head.
I have a second battery (mainly for the winch) mounted on the firewall so things are a little cramped where the bolt is
volunteers
Well-known member
Rubber wheel chock. Item # 96479. PASS for 5.99
6" Magnetic Parts Holder. PASS for 2.99
72" x 80" Mover's Blanket. Item # 66537, PASS for 5.99
1/2" Drive Click Stop Torque Wrench, Item # 239, FAIL for 8.99
Very difficult to adjust, and cannot trust the accuracy.
6" Magnetic Parts Holder. PASS for 2.99
72" x 80" Mover's Blanket. Item # 66537, PASS for 5.99
1/2" Drive Click Stop Torque Wrench, Item # 239, FAIL for 8.99
Very difficult to adjust, and cannot trust the accuracy.
Anyone have experience with the new Automatic Compressor Drain Kit 68244? It's only $6.99 with the ITC coupon this month.
i get the bell housing bolts from below, with a swivel and long extension.
Refractometer
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jun 21, 2011
- Messages
- 135
On the HF automatic drain kit, you might check out this site for the story of an installation. I've got one, but haven't installed it yet. http://www.paragoncode.com/shop/compressor/
Tried it and found it works ok on 120 psi or less. On a 155 psi tank the o'ring on the shuttle valve inside goes awol.
I always sort through the stack and look for the trustworthy looking ones.
I purchased this and on my 150 PSI compressor it constantly blew out the oring.
I glued it in place and it still continued to leak, compressor would drain out overnight. Also the brass fittings it comes with are very thin. I cracked the T while installing it and had to use my own fittings.
I give this product a Fail.
Next time use a 24" extension with your swivel socket, and go in from the back around the tail housing. Easiest way to do any RWD GM transmission. I myself use a 24" 1/2f 3/8m Snap-on extension with a Impact swivel, and a 1/2 impact. Best way to go I can drop a ****** on a chebby in under 30 minutes.
CHRIS LUCKYMAN
Banned
That deserves a chuckle.
Higher grade rubber oring maybe?
I've been looking for some alternative and it seems like a huge step from HF $7 to anything else about $75 or more.
Thanks for all of the info on the compressor drain. My compressor is 150 psi so I think I might have to pass. Although I like your idea, Danglerb, of maybe finding some better components to make it work. It is a huge step in price to the next option.
The shuttle valve has no side support for the o'ring - not a grove and even a high grade would not work.
Kaervak
Well-known member
8" Three jaw puller http://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-three-jaw-puller-40970.html PASS
Bought it yesterday to remove some stubborn rear drums. The hook/teeth ends are a bit fat for my particular application. A bit difficult to get a good grip on the lip of the drum, but I did manage a way to get the drum pulled off with it. Without it, the drums would still be on there.
Bought it yesterday to remove some stubborn rear drums. The hook/teeth ends are a bit fat for my particular application. A bit difficult to get a good grip on the lip of the drum, but I did manage a way to get the drum pulled off with it. Without it, the drums would still be on there.
mdlbldrmatt135
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 3, 2011
- Messages
- 49
PASS HF's 3 piece 3 jaw puller set http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-three-jaw-puller-set-32184.html
HF 2 jaw 3 piece puller set http://http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-two-jaw-puller-set-40966.html
Both sets have worked well on some 40+ year old compressors & engines
HF 2 jaw 3 piece puller set http://http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-two-jaw-puller-set-40966.html
Both sets have worked well on some 40+ year old compressors & engines
Vinny
Well-known member
Interesting. I bought the 2 jaw puller set to get some stuck drums off, busted the first time I tried using it. Returned it and just went crazy with a rubber mallet.
nuclearlemon
Well-known member
i broke a three jaw and the two jaw i bought had two different length jaws.
For anyone looking to get brake drums off, the easiest way to get drums off is to loosen the adjuster on the back. Then take a hammer in the 2.5-4lb range, and hit the drum TOWARD the axle. The vibration will free it up. You can also whack at the sides, but I've broken chunks out of drums doing that...
Another option is a air hammer. It'll do the same as a regular hammer, but quicker. haha.
Another option is a air hammer. It'll do the same as a regular hammer, but quicker. haha.
yep. but around here, the adjusters sometimes rust solid. sometimes they can be heated.
what i have to do sometimes is : while someones else is prying the drum off, i use a large, sometimes a VERY LARGE, pry bar to turn the axle by the studs. the drums can get a very large ridge on them.
Farmer Joe
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2011
- Messages
- 247
I see the 1/2" earthquake has gotten pretty decent reviews, but would anyone actually recommend it as a cheap back up? I work as a C-Tech, and have a very good older IR impact gun that my old man handed down to me, and I oil and take care of that thing every day lol, but I'd like to have an inexpensive backup in my box that can hold up for a day or two, just in case my gun ever goes down.