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The Harbor Freight PASS/FAIL Thread...

Tallpilot

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Who else does? Beside calling it a 30G to make it sound bigger than 20-something. It's just how it works going from 120 to 240v. It's probably more about tank construction and their end caps.

That's correct. You are going to have a hard time making a 120V compressor setup do 15 SCFPM at 90psi unless you hooked it up to a 400 gal tank and waited an hour for it to fill up. The cast iron in a 400 gal tank would cost so much more than a 240V setup that hardly anyone would buy it.
 
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Jp267

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That's correct. You are going to have a hard time making a 120V compressor setup do 15 SCFPM at 90psi unless you hooked it up to a 400 gal tank and waited an hour for it to fill up. The cast iron in a 400 gal tank would cost so much more than a 240V setup that hardly anyone would buy it.
Yeah you're right. Sorry long day....

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guitarbutt

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I go to Harbor Freight because I can afford it more than "real" brand items. That being said, I do plenty of research before buying something there, just like I would a "real" brand tool.

The free magnetic back lights a super handy. Big pass on those
https://www.harborfreight.com/27-led-portable-worklight-flashlight-67227.html

The free 6 pack of screwdrivers have only been used a few times in the house, so for their intended use of being the "inside screwdrivers", they've been fine.

Free 4" Magnetic bowl-very handy, albeit small. Then again, a few bolts and drill bits aren't that big in the first place.

Various ratcheting clamps 12"-32(?)"-very cheap and useful. I did break the ratching mechanism in 2 of them, 18" and 12", but I do believe more expensive ones would've broken in the same manner. I'll definitely get more and use them

5 mil nitrile gloves are cheap and work just fine. I paint and stain with them.

36 piece horsehair brushes are great for what I use them for and only $2.99. For me, one time use brushes to get in the corners of things with stain.

The free 4 outlet power strip has just a 2' cord, but it is UL listed. I just got tired of unplugging and replugging power tools into the lone extension cord, so this was perfect for me.

The $12.99 1/2" breaker bar and 3/4" deep impact sockets worked perfectly for taking the tires off my car to fix things behind the wheels. The sockets are very sturdy and heavy feeling.

This cordless drill: https://www.harborfreight.com/18-Vo...h-Keyless-Chuck-21-Clutch-Settings-68239.html
It's been abused, ie thrown multiple times out of frustration not due to the fault of the drill, and it refuses to quit working. It does lack "power", but it drives drill bits and screws into wood, which is what I bought it to do.

Double edge Japanese pull saw-not the finest, but once you use a pull saw, you'll have a hard time going back to a standard saw for regular use. I have better ones, but I use this one for the rough stuff and it keeps on cutting.

https://www.harborfreight.com/portable-halogen-shop-light-63180.html
Bright and handy. It does get hot, being a metal outside shell, but common sense will tell the user that.

The el cheapo reciprocating saw was purchased to tear down pallets, and it does that just fine. The blades from HF are fine too. Nothing to complain about here, as this will be the only use for it. https://www.harborfreight.com/6-Amp...-Rotating-Handle-Reciprocating-Saw-62370.html

99 cent for 15 sheet sandpaper is fine. I go through lots of sandpaper when I do pallet projects, so it's nice to have sandpaper in bult to do the ugly work. It's nowhere near as good as 3m with the flex backing, but I don't have to waste the good stuff for ugly work.

2" spring clamps are great and come in very handy for various purposes

I've built many things with Harbor Freight tools and done several vehicle repairs using them. I'd much rather have great, USA made tools, but I also like being able to get things built and fixed while still paying my bills and not accumulating loads of debt. HF gets high marks from me, and the things I've bought there serve the purpose I bought them for. I think that goes with most tools and things in life.
 

zendriver

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20% is off single item only correct? So it wouldn't stack on top of the auger for $159?

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You can't use the 20% coupon on an item that has the Predator "brand name" name anyway.

It's in the fine print.

The Auger is already marked down 20% (with it's own coupon)
 
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Frottage

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As has been said many times, Pittsburgh Pro ratchets and sockets are great (I've been meaning to post a side by side pic of tekton/gearwrench/pittsburgh pro sockets, they really are great for the money).

I've found the 3/8 locking socket extensions to be great also. I read here about the little screw potentially coming loose, but mine have been tight. Still debating whether to remove them and loctite, but no problems so far.

The Pittsburgh Professional screwdrivers (the ones with different color red or blue handles for phillips/slotted) have been surprisingly good. Hated the free black ones, but the red/blue ones are a pass.

I haven't read much about the Pittsburgh Pro pliers until JD, above. I have to concur, the pro needlenose in various sizes have been serviceable, a definite pass. Enough that I bought the pro diagonal cutters and slip joint pliers (not enough time on those to assess).

One thing I have done religiously: put the time in and pick the best unit in the rack. Example - I picked up some long reach pliers the other week. there were a dozen of them to choose from. You could find one where the tips didn't line up perfectly, and others where you could see some air in spots when the jaws closed, but I played with a few and grabbed a tight set with good alignment that sat flush. A few minutes of scouting solves a lot of problems.
 

guitarbutt

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I went to HF today and looked into the composite wrenches. The red ones and the black ones all felt a little light, therefore rather puny. I didn't buy one, but why do these get such rave reviews? Am I correct in assuming these are tougher than they feel? It just seems like the handles could be broken in half easily
 

guitarbutt

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:confused:

I guess a part number might be good.



Item #66312
Item #62619

1/4 inch ones.

I've looked through several pages of this thread, but nothing real recent on these composite ratchets. Older posts, but I assume they've been changed a tad over time. They just feel like a "fail" because they're a plastic ratchet. Just wondering if anyone has an update on theirs or a new pass/ fail experience with a recently purchased one

*and I said "wrenches" in my first post, but I meant ratchets. I'm sorry, I misspoke
 

HanShotFirst

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I went to HF today and looked into the composite wrenches. The red ones and the black ones all felt a little light, therefore rather puny. I didn't buy one, but why do these get such rave reviews? Am I correct in assuming these are tougher than they feel? It just seems like the handles could be broken in half easily

They are way stronger than you would think. Look on YouTube, lots of reviews, including destructive. No they're not as strong as steel, but they're strong enough for 99% of all jobs, they're light weight, ergonomic, smooth, and they even have a high tooth count. When I come up against something really tough, I typically reach for an old SK because they're the closest thing I've ever seen to an indestructible ratchet. But honestly, I reach for my HF composites most of the time these days. I have the 1/4" and 3/8", and I love them.
 

zendriver

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Item #66312
Item #62619

1/4 inch ones.

I've looked through several pages of this thread, but nothing real recent on these composite ratchets. Older posts, but I assume they've been changed a tad over time. They just feel like a "fail" because they're a plastic ratchet. Just wondering if anyone has an update on theirs or a new pass/ fail experience with a recently purchased one

*and I said "wrenches" in my first post, but I meant ratchets. I'm sorry, I misspoke



Welcome to the 20th and 21st century, where many things made of "composites" work fine.

You do realize you are trolling, by posting "fails" here, for a HF product you have not purchased or used, right?


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guitarbutt

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HansShotFirst, thank you for the reply. I didn't realize how popular they are with folks. I'm going to buy one the next trip, thank you.


Welcome to the 20th and 21st century, where many things made of "composites" work fine.

You do realize you are trolling, by posting "fails" here, for a HF product you have not purchased or used, right?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

:rolleyes2

I'm absolutely not trolling, guy. I was asking insight on a product that I handled in the store but had a question about it's construction. Thus, a thread about products being passes/ fails seems like a perfectly legitimate place to ask a question like that. Thanks for replying from you iPhone though.
 

6PTsocket

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As has been said many times, Pittsburgh Pro ratchets and sockets are great (I've been meaning to post a side by side pic of tekton/gearwrench/pittsburgh pro sockets, they really are great for the money).

I've found the 3/8 locking socket extensions to be great also. I read here about the little screw potentially coming loose, but mine have been tight. Still debating whether to remove them and loctite, but no problems so far.

The Pittsburgh Professional screwdrivers (the ones with different color red or blue handles for phillips/slotted) have been surprisingly good. Hated the free black ones, but the red/blue ones are a pass.

I haven't read much about the Pittsburgh Pro pliers until JD, above. I have to concur, the pro needlenose in various sizes have been serviceable, a definite pass. Enough that I bought the pro diagonal cutters and slip joint pliers (not enough time on those to assess).

One thing I have done religiously: put the time in and pick the best unit in the rack. Example - I picked up some long reach pliers the other week. there were a dozen of them to choose from. You could find one where the tips didn't line up perfectly, and others where you could see some air in spots when the jaws closed, but I played with a few and grabbed a tight set with good alignment that sat flush. A few minutes of scouting solves a lot of problems.
I have a bunch of free black ones and I am amazed that I have yet to damage one. If I were in the market for new screw drivers I would go more up scale but I can't complain about these.

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Codejack

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I'm absolutely not trolling, guy. I was asking insight on a product that I handled in the store but had a question about it's construction. Thus, a thread about products being passes/ fails seems like a perfectly legitimate place to ask a question like that.

I think he was annoyed because it should have been a separate thread, and this one is just supposed to be for reports of things AFTER you have bought them :)

That being said, I think the composite is just a coating, and it is steel underneath, although if it is like their comfort-grip models, the steel doesn't go all the way down the handle.
 
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guitarbutt

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Windsor Design No. 33 Bench Plane Item#97544

Pass. This was my first plane and it worked/ works very well. I build things from pine mostly, and pallets, so this works for my needs just fine (taking off an uneven edge, bumpy boards, even surfaces). I keep it pretty sharp, so that makes a big difference in effectiveness
 

bwringer

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Indianapolis
Item #66312
Item #62619

1/4 inch ones.

I've looked through several pages of this thread, but nothing real recent on these composite ratchets. Older posts, but I assume they've been changed a tad over time. They just feel like a "fail" because they're a plastic ratchet. Just wondering if anyone has an update on theirs or a new pass/ fail experience with a recently purchased one

*and I said "wrenches" in my first post, but I meant ratchets. I'm sorry, I misspoke

They're basically a fairly normal steel ratchet with a plastic coating molded over the top (in other words, the ratchet and handle are steel). They're plenty strong, not to mention the handles are easier to grip than bare chrome, and you're less likely to scratch or ding parts.

They're quite nice, and a real bargain. Get one and try it out -- it's not much money.
 

mbshop

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visalia ca
Free headlamp 61319, total failure. Barely can see the light. Even on my hand in front of my face it was dim. Can't imagine anyone paying for this dim bulb.
update, I put two new batteries in it and it got a little better but at this point I would rather buy a cheap light that is brighter.
 
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ndnchf

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Free headlamp 61319, total failure. Barely can see the light. Even on my hand in front of my face it was dim. Can't imagine anyone paying for this dim bulb.

I agree, that one is junk. On the other hand the LED version that just costs a few dollars is excellent. I mounted one on my welding helmet and it gives me bright light right where I need it. Well worth the few dollars.
 

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jgromada

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Maryland (between DC & Balt)
Free headlamp 61319, total failure. Barely can see the light. Even on my hand in front of my face it was dim. Can't imagine anyone paying for this dim bulb.
update, I put two new batteries in it and it got a little better but at this point I would rather buy a cheap light that is brighter.
if its not LED these days I wouldn't bother. See how we've become spoiled!
 
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6PTsocket

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Battery disconnect switch 97853. FAIL. Sold under many brand names, this is the only one I could find that has a female clamp for the battery and a male post for the cable. Many others only have screw terminals requiring a more complicated installation. The reviews were mostly good and I chose to ignore the one that said the male post was far too small for the cable clamp. My mistake. It is waaay too small. A lead filler cap would never make up the difference. You would need a strip of copper or brass to wrap around the post on the disconnect for it to accept the car's battery clamp. Back it goes.

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Zexx

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Usually those are used for lawnmower or motorcycle batteries that have the smaller posts.
 

Rich+

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Free headlamp 61319, total failure. Barely can see the light. Even on my hand in front of my face it was dim. Can't imagine anyone paying for this dim bulb.
update, I put two new batteries in it and it got a little better but at this point I would rather buy a cheap light that is brighter.

I've never used the HF headlamps, but the day when I realized my camping headlamp can be used when wrenching under the car my world changed. A decent headlamp is now one of my must-have tools.
 

Provincial

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Battery disconnect switch 97853. FAIL. Sold under many brand names, this is the only one I could find that has a female clamp for the battery and a male post for the cable. Many others only have screw terminals requiring a more complicated installation. The reviews were mostly good and I chose to ignore the one that said the male post was far too small for the cable clamp. My mistake. It is waaay too small. A lead filler cap would never make up the difference. You would need a strip of copper or brass to wrap around the post on the disconnect for it to accept the car's battery clamp. Back it goes.

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Battery posts are different sizes. SAE (American) posts are Positive: 17.5mm diameter at the top, Negative: 15.9mm at the top. There are at least three foreign post designs. All the tapered post battery designs have the same taper, but different diameters.

The disconnect should be placed on the grounded terminal, which is the negative one on most vehicles. Negative terminals are smaller.

There is a JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) "Pencil" post that is Positive: 14.5mm, and Negative: 12.8mm.
 

guitarbutt

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The 15 pack of sandpaper for 99 cents is definitely worth it. Item #7363
I work with a lot of repurposed wood and it's cheap enough to stock up on to just smooth out lots of roughness. It saves me from using the good sandpaper. It comes in 3 grits, although it doesn't feel like a big difference between them. I've built many things with this being the the first step in smoothing.
 

Codejack

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Unequivocal Passes:

25" 1/2" Breaker Bar, (#60819?)

1/2" Extendable Ratchet (#61711?)

-----------------------------------------

Not really fails...

3-piece 1/2" Impact Wobble Extension Set - Technically, only one of them failed, and it was somewhere north of 400 lb-ft.

3-piece Long Extension Set - Again, only one of them failed, on the same bolt as above.

--------------------------------------------------

This was a Honda crank pulley bolt that I had already sprayed with liquid wrench and let sit for 20 min, heated up with a torch, cooled down with upside-down canned air, and hit with an impact wrench (supposedly rated at 450 lb-ft) to no avail.

I went and got the 50mm Hex tool, put it on the extendable ratchet, braced the extension on a jack stand, hooked the extension to the 25" breaker bar, and put a 4' floor jack handle on the end of that. I broke the long extension, then I put the wobble extensions together to make them long enough, and broke one of them.

I finally had to get the breaker bar on it directly, crank the ratchet around to get enough room for it to bend, then stood on it; it was close to 500 lb-ft to get it off.

Long day :)
 

6PTsocket

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Battery posts are different sizes. SAE (American) posts are Positive: 17.5mm diameter at the top, Negative: 15.9mm at the top. There are at least three foreign post designs. All the tapered post battery designs have the same taper, but different diameters.

The disconnect should be placed on the grounded terminal, which is the negative one on most vehicles. Negative terminals are smaller.

There is a JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) "Pencil" post that is Positive: 14.5mm, and Negative: 12.8mm.
I tried it first on the negative post and then, the positive. As you pointed out, the positive was even smaller. Whatever standard it is sized for, it doesn't fit an O7 Dodge pickup with a Delco 65 battery. Wouldn't that be SAE, the largest of the bunch? That would mean it would not fit anything else. My clamps have very reasonable grip range and appear to be formed steel, not cast soft metal, so I have not wire brushed or reamed away too much metal from rhe clamps. This is a very generic item. There was no brand name on it. This problem may be why none of the chain auto stores had it. I found it on line and it was the only one that could be installed without modification. Too bad it did not fit.

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jonesg

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I took some of the freebies, screwdrivers. Magnetic ashtray eyc, looked at it and left it all in the parking lot.
Junk is no bargain at any price.
 

zendriver

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I took some of the freebies, screwdrivers. Magnetic ashtray eyc, looked at it and left it all in the parking lot.
Junk is no bargain at any price.



Most people here, at least try to actually use one of their products, before giving it a pass or fail, versus just looking at it.

Although you could probably use it as one, it's not really an ashtray but a magnetic parts holder, which is basically a stainless steel dish with a magnet on the bottom of it.

What didn't you like about it?

Just curious.


It's interesting, that you were able to get more than one free item at a time. Which is against store policy at my local store.

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ndnchf

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Any thought on their ultrasonic cleaner?

I have this one and am very pleased with it:

https://www.harborfreight.com/25-liter-ultrasonic-cleaner-63256.html

There is one modification that should be done to it. At the top of the stainless steel tank there is a joint where it meets the plastic case. This joint should be sealed with RTV silicone sealer. If not done, when pouring out old liquid, it will run down through this joint into the electronics and kill it. I saw this tip posted here somewhere and did it right away. I've been using mine for about 2 years with 50/50 simple green and water. Works fine for my needs.
 

Cyansarunt

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I took some of the freebies, screwdrivers. Magnetic ashtray eyc, looked at it and left it all in the parking lot.
Junk is no bargain at any price.

Magnetic ashtray huh? For all those iron lined cigarettes?

I'm guessing you're the type of person that needs instructions for toilet paper
 

JRC3

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jonesg, have you tried one of these?

http://transgarp.dyndns.org/div/*****-Lamp.jpg



Truth is, the magnetic parts trays work fine. It's a bowl with a magnet. There's simply no way to discount it and call it junk. I have several of every size. Great for gun parts. I have one of the big 4 magnet trays that I'm pretty sure HF doesn't sell anymore. Every time I work on a vehicle it comes out. Great for nuts and bolts as well as sockets. Sit it on top of the plenum or core support and it holds everything while working under the hood.

jonesg is either trolling or he can't read and assumed it was an ashtray. Considering his ability to post a reply, I'm gonna guess he can read. There is another possibility...But I'm gonna wait to see what he thinks about the light I posted before going down that road.
 

Unruh

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Silverdale, Washington
I have this one and am very pleased with it:

https://www.harborfreight.com/25-liter-ultrasonic-cleaner-63256.html

There is one modification that should be done to it. At the top of the stainless steel tank there is a joint where it meets the plastic case. This joint should be sealed with RTV silicone sealer. If not done, when pouring out old liquid, it will run down through this joint into the electronics and kill it. I saw this tip posted here somewhere and did it right away. I've been using mine for about 2 years with 50/50 simple green and water. Works fine for my needs.

I've been thinking of getting one of these. I've been buying random tools at garage/estate sales and would like to clean them up. Do they go on sale or is this a coupon type of item?
 

jonesg

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northern Maine/
Got the 301cc predator 8hp, as good as the reviews say, took 1 hr to swap out the old Briggs and started on the first pull. I'll pull the old one apart and torture it this winter. Can't help be impressed by the HF honda clone, smooth, quiet and easy starts.
 
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