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The Machine Work Thread

bbcc

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Aug 1, 2012
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Edmonton
Needed an adapter to put -4 braided line to an LS oil pressure port....on a sunday.....at 19:00. What is a $20 fitting from the store I cranked out in an hour. Good thing this is a hobby
 

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kazlx

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Oct 30, 2012
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Tustin, CA
6/4 Ti.

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Also, posted in my projects thread, but figured I'd drop in here as well.

Stepping up my machining game.
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stioc

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^ insane! :thumbup:


Pretty cool and inspiring work in this thread (as well as the tools). Since I'm brand new to machining it'd be awesome if you guys can also include a couple of sentences about how the parts were done to go with the pics. For e.g. the M+K heart branding piece, was that done on a manual mill with a rotary table to do the radius? :headscrat
 

Griff93

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Huntsville, AL
^ insane! :thumbup:


Pretty cool and inspiring work in this thread (as well as the tools). Since I'm brand new to machining it'd be awesome if you guys can also include a couple of sentences about how the parts were done to go with the pics. For e.g. the M+K heart branding piece, was that done on a manual mill with a rotary table to do the radius? :headscrat

The brand was done on a 3 axis cnc mill with a 1/2", 1/4", 1/8" end mills, and 1/4" chamfer mill.
 

bullnerd

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Sep 17, 2012
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Jersey
The first branding iron I made back in about 91-92, I took a piece of brass, drew the pattern on it, roughed it out using the handles. Then stuck it in a small, but rigid vise that wasn't bolted to the table and freehanded it. I held the vise in both hands and fed the knee on the mill with my knee. I took small cuts and only had to clean up where I didn't get close while roughing. Went quick and came out great.

The next one I did on a FADAL....much easier.

I have to look for the pics.
 

Griff93

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We made this part for a customer this week. It's a piece to hook up a flex duct to an fj45 heater box when installing air conditioning.


 

stioc

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A quick and dirty car-related project today. I did the coolant bypass mod on my truck some time ago. Decided to cap off the tube.
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Found a small piece of some type of poly/plastic/delrin rod, perfect for the job and it cut like butter.
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All done, total time about 20 mins:
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davewo

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Oct 12, 2011
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USA
I made a collet closer for a Monarch 10ee lathe I bought last November. It is modelled directly after a factory closer but with modifications to certain parts because I don't have the ability to harden parts. I'll do a write up at some point.

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OccupantRJ

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Eastern North Carolina
Beautiful work! You may want to investigate A2 tool steel. It can be flame hardened easily with a torch, and quenched in ambient air. I have been doing this for close to 30 years on small parts for stamping and forming dies along with other tooling.
 

stioc

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I just saw the lathe and milling machines listed in the 'The most useless tools you ever bought' thread :willy_nil so looking at the updates here all is good in the world again :beer:
 
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kazlx

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Negative. Just a little practice project that morphed into a little box with a lid. Mainly to practice tool paths and setups. But it's coming out pretty good.
 
OP
H

Hephaestus29

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Mar 13, 2011
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Indianapolis
I finished up a little project I've been working on.
This is actually the Millwrights job at work, but he was too busy watching TV
to do it. So I did it myself. I doubt they'll file a grievance.

There was turning, milling, drilling, and sawing in this project.
It's a wheelie bar to keep my trike from tipping over. I don't have that many tools in it right now but I'll have more eventually.
 

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stioc

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This is just me messing around, never turned pens before nor did I plan to and certainly not on the metal lathe. However, I thought let me chuck up a small piece and see if I can even turn it without creating a ton of dust and cloging up the oil passages on my lathe. After about 30mins of messing around with it I was staring at an ugly pen lol

I used an end mill in the chuck to turn the thing, worked great. However, I'm sure there's a tool out there to hold a wood piece like that in a lathe.

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The cleanup wasn't bad at all with a vacuum and it was surprisingly fun to turn wood on the metal lathe.
 

Firestorm

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Apr 10, 2017
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Germany
Hello,

a lot of great machine work. I love it.

I found some of my machine work pictures too.

The big chunk of aluminium is 7075 and the small one ist out of 6061.

I use a CNC mill, made by CHIRON Germany and program all that stuff with Autodesk FUSION 360.



Cheers Alex
 

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Firestorm

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Haha, a little bit heavy.:)

But this is a great vise, expensive but very useful. Very handy with two or one clamp positions.


Here is a picture of this vise with two clamping positions.



Cheers Alex
 

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KMScott

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I was asked by two GJ members to repair their Parker 439 Swivel vises. Both were used without jaws. I have a small machine shop in the basement of my home and work on vises to keep me busy. I thought these two 439 Parker jaws would be the same but I was wrong. They both had different geometry.

The first cuts I did was to serrate the jaw faces, once the angles are cut then it is difficult to serrate the jaws. I then set up my 8" Bridgeport sine plate to rough out the material before going to the surface grinder. I have to tilt the block at a angle then dress another angle on the grinding wheel to match the face of the vise. I drop the wheel slowly and side wheel the 22 degree angle on these jaws. Parker jaws have a back angle on the top of the vise and makes these jaws difficult to make. Once I get the angles dialed in so the serrated faces are parallel to each other and square to the vise then it is just tweaking the width to fit the vise.

You notice I had to weld the vise faces due to the idiots using this vise without jaws. I used Eutectic 224 TIG rod with plenty of preheating and a slow cool. After the jaws were fit then I had to cut the top radius. I stepped off the radius with my old Master Cam V9 software that I used years ago when I was building molds with a ball endmill.
 

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KMScott

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I then had to set up the 8" sine plate and pin the jaws in place missing the original pin holes, both of these vises needed 16 degree angled holes so you can remove the pin from underneath the vise. Once the jaws are pinned in place then the jaws are finished with a 4-1/2 angle sander and a Scotch Brite pad. I made 3/16 pins with a slight knurl to secure the jaws in place permanently once the jaws come back from Heat Treating. I use A2 tool steel since it is very stable. I have been wanting to post my work on this posting for a while and finally took pictures of my progress on this project for the two members here.
 

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IHmachinery

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Pacific Northwest, Canada
I then had to set up the 8" sine plate and pin the jaws in place missing the original pin holes, both of these vises needed 16 degree angled holes so you can remove the pin from underneath the vise. Once the jaws are pinned in place then the jaws are finished with a 4-1/2 angle sander and a Scotch Brite pad. I made 3/16 pins with a slight knurl to secure the jaws in place permanently once the jaws come back from Heat Treating. I use A2 tool steel since it is very stable. I have been wanting to post my work on this posting for a while and finally took pictures of my progress on this project for the two members here.



Very nice


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Firestorm

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Apr 10, 2017
Messages
17
Location
Germany
Hey,

another quick job this morning. Some parts out of SS304 stainless steel.

Programmed with Autodesk Fusion360. I love the Adaptive Clearing strategy :D and the chips...haha



Cheers Alex
 

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txvwnut

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Jan 1, 2015
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Bedford, Texas
What is a good shape for a hss lathe tool to give me a good finish?


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Depends on the type of work you are needing to do. Type of material and angle of cut have a lot to do with tool shape.

See if you can find you an old Atlas lathe manual as it has some good information in it.
 
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