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gcan

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 30, 2006
Messages
152
Location
Alabama
The anchors on mine seem to be set okay but I thought about using epoxy to fill in where it chipped away when the drill first started and where the anchor is below the surface. I used a masonary bit and when it started it chipped the surface about a 1/4" larger than the actual anchor. Then add to this, as others have stated, everytime I get under the car still feels slightly scary so I thought about plugging the anchors and pouring epoxy to level the floor back out and as a bonus the epoxy around the edges and surface may actually help to strengthen the anchor??

Any thoughts ?
 

FlameOut

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 12, 2008
Messages
428
Location
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
If Gabe ever shows up, maybe he can get something together for you guys. When I first got in on the first group buy, my new garage was only a vision in my head, and I had the lift almost a year before my garage. I knew I wanted a lift, and I knew the MaxJax would be the prefect lift for my situation, and it has lived up to the expectations :thumbup:
 

BillGalbraith

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 19, 2009
Messages
270
If Gabe ever shows up, maybe he can get something together for you guys. When I first got in on the first group buy, my new garage was only a vision in my head, and I had the lift almost a year before my garage. I knew I wanted a lift, and I knew the MaxJax would be the prefect lift for my situation, and it has lived up to the expectations :thumbup:

What kind of price was Gabe able to arrange for that group buy? Northern Tools has it for $1999 with free shipping, but is on back-order until April 9th. I'd be interested if it were signficantly less than that.

I'm pouring concrete for my garage Friday morning at 7 am (Okay, *I* am not pouring it. I just write the checks). I decided to opt up for the 3500 psi concrete, since it was just a few bucks more per yard. I'll report when I know an exact number. I need about 9 yards, so even $5 a yard more doesn't hurt too much, and I like the idea of a little more strength. Might help keep from getting cracks as well, even though they are going to saw-cut my 28x28 into quarters. i have 10 mil Stego under it.
 

UPSHIFT

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 28, 2008
Messages
188
Location
Simi Valley, CA
Hello GJ Users,

The Popularity of the MaxJax has the product selling faster than we can make them. We would have to revisit this idea in Early July. Dannmar Thanks all of our GJ Friends for their overwhelming Support.

Thanks as Always,
Gabe
Dannmar
 

Joe From NY

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 25, 2010
Messages
527
Location
NY
Well, i finally got my MaxJax delivered friday. It came by liftgate truck from Conway Freight and the guy wheeled it into my driveway with a hydraulic pallet cart. i put it all together and bled the cylinders, but i am afraid my 60 year old concrete on my outside driveway appears to be in dubious condition. (i have too much junk to mount it in my garage.) i will probably have to have some concrete pads installed to be safe. has anyone done this themselves, or is it something that you should have done professionally. how big square and deep should the concrete pads be poured? i know the concrete has to cure about a month before you can set the anchors.
thanks
 

Joe From NY

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 25, 2010
Messages
527
Location
NY
One comment - please see the other thread about Maxjax Installations....

The anchor instructions from Dannmar are not correct. Dannmar packages Wej-It PD-58 Power Drop 5/8" anchors (7/8" OD) with the MaxJax.
As with my comments in the other thread, I strongly suggest testing any anchors installed as per the Dannmar process. If you are curious about the specific differences, either simply look at the instructions on the Wej-It site or let me know.

Have you seen the latest copy of the MaxJax installation manual?

http://www.dannmar.com/dannmar-products/two-post-lifts/files/PS-7REVA_v2.pdf

Dannmar's installation instructions for the PD-58's are the same as the fastener manufacturer's. The manual even has a copy of Wej-It's illustration and directions. The updated MaxJax manual is clear and consistent with the setting procedure recommended by Wej-It.
 
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Car54

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 31, 2006
Messages
106
Location
Tampa, FL
Reading all this, I'm wondering if you don't need portability or have a low ceiling why do you choose this lift over a full height asymmetrical 2-post lift?
 

wachuko

Well-known member
Joined
May 15, 2008
Messages
691
Location
Ocala, FL
Reading all this, I'm wondering if you don't need portability or have a low ceiling why do you choose this lift over a full height asymmetrical 2-post lift?

You don't... best to go with a two-post asymmetrical unit :thumbup: Higher lift, asymmetrical setup is great when opening the doors... no brainer if you are not limited on height.
 

Joe From NY

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 25, 2010
Messages
527
Location
NY
Reading all this, I'm wondering if you don't need portability or have a low ceiling why do you choose this lift over a full height asymmetrical 2-post lift?

I will use it outside, in front of my garage door. when i am done, i wheel the columns into the garage. Portability...
 

s_morrison57

Banned
Joined
Mar 16, 2009
Messages
354
Location
Vancouver BC
oh man, been tossing back and forth on a scissor lift or a 2 post and decided on a scissor lift but after reading this I think the Max Jac might be a better option. I have a 10' 6" ceiling but just need high enough to drop the engine in the porsche, always worried that the scissor lift might be in the way of an engine-****** drop, any one with a P car done this with a scissor lift. Also start to finish how long does it take to set up the MJ, wheel into place and hook up bolt down? 1/2 hour? comments please, I'm just ready to spring for a scissor and now I'm doing the second guessing thing again
 

s_morrison57

Banned
Joined
Mar 16, 2009
Messages
354
Location
Vancouver BC
watched that vid, still don't know what I'm going to get , probably come down to price, pro's and con's to both the MJ and a scissor lift
 

revlover

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 27, 2008
Messages
264
Here's another video. This one is a lot more simple than the other video, IMO.
 

Knee Deep

New member
Joined
Aug 29, 2010
Messages
2
How many people have drilled an additional set of safety holes?

At my ceiling height lifting trucks and suvs require me to lower the lift quite a bit to get to the factory safety hole. Cars seem to be fine, but after searching I can only find one response from Danmarr saying that he wouldn't recomend drilling a set of holes "but you could".

Thanks
 
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regguy1

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Joined
Dec 15, 2009
Messages
4,054
Location
On Mount Olympus with Zeus
How many people have drilled an additional set of safety holes?

At my ceiling height lifting trucks and suvs require me to lower the lift quite a bit to get to the factory safety hole. Cars seem to be fine, but after searching I can only find one response from Danmarr saying that he wouldn't recomend drilling a set of holes "but you could".

You'll have to determine for yourself if you wan't o add an additional set of holes.


Thanks


Dannmar can't tell you yes because of product liability concerns. The "but you could" seems to be implicit approval without saying it directly..leaving liability on person performing the modification. You have to understand their point of view.
 

Joe From NY

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Joined
Feb 25, 2010
Messages
527
Location
NY
isn't it true that the higher the load goes up off of the base, the more the column wants to pivot in towards the center of the driveway. isn't there torsion force at work at the base of the column?
 

Knee Deep

New member
Joined
Aug 29, 2010
Messages
2
That makes sense to me. Now I'm curious to see how many people have done it. Seems like a 7/8 cobalt drill bit would be a touch big, but a 22mm drill bit is more $$.
 

wachuko

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Joined
May 15, 2008
Messages
691
Location
Ocala, FL
How many people have drilled an additional set of safety holes?

At my ceiling height lifting trucks and suvs require me to lower the lift quite a bit to get to the factory safety hole. Cars seem to be fine, but after searching I can only find one response from Danmarr saying that he wouldn't recomend drilling a set of holes "but you could".

Thanks

I have been thinking about it... just one set for when the lift is on the highest height.
 

Joe From NY

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 25, 2010
Messages
527
Location
NY
so we are not talking about making a new set of holes to get the vehicle to rest at a higher point, correct? but rather holes to rest safely below its current maximum height?
 

Denee007

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 21, 2010
Messages
266
Location
Cypress, Tx
I promise, this is the last question I would ever have before ordering my MJ! I've lined up a core drill to drill my holes vs. masonary bit, a little more expensive, but it's more like a machined hole! Anyway, It's mainly my husband bugging me to ask! First off, I called Dannmar and asked if they'd ever put more levels for "locking" besides just the two levels that they come with. He told me they would not be putting any more levels than what's already on them. Unofficially, he told me customers are putting their own holes for the level of height that they want. I didn't ask about voiding warranty and surely it would. But has anyone drilled additional holes yet? And could someone Please post a photo of where the locking bar goes?
thanks!!
dne'
 

whitexkr

Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2010
Messages
8
Location
Arlington, VA
I put a set of holes in roughly halfway between the ones that are there. It was a necessaity because I have extremely low ceilings with ductwork on them. I used a hardened high quality holesaw (21mm, 13/16"). I get about a 3 foot lift..perfect to sit on the floor and work.
 

Denee007

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 21, 2010
Messages
266
Location
Cypress, Tx
Pleased to meet you! was it difficult to drill with a hole saw? Could you possilby post a photo of how the lock goes and maybe a photo of your ride as well:bounce:?

I put a set of holes in roughly halfway between the ones that are there. It was a necessaity because I have extremely low ceilings with ductwork on them. I used a hardened high quality holesaw (21mm, 13/16"). I get about a 3 foot lift..perfect to sit on the floor and work.
 

whitexkr

Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2010
Messages
8
Location
Arlington, VA
Thank you...nice to be here. I pop in here from time to time. It was just about this time last year that I got my Maxjax, thanks in large part to the discussion here. You usually find me posting on jagforums.com.

I used this hole saw: http://www.mcmaster.com/#hole-saws/=9v2ehj
(the 13/16 heavy duty bimetal one, 41005A15). You also need the matching arbor such as 4066A78. Cuts like butter with an ordinary hand drill (well almost)...it was not difficult. A hole saw that size is easier to handle cutting through steel with a hand drill than a regular drill bit (and less costly).

Let me take some pix and post them shortly.
 
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Denee007

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 21, 2010
Messages
266
Location
Cypress, Tx
Thanks for the link for the holesaws! I HOPE I can get the MJ up and going within the next month or so, but we all know how Christmas is a busy time of the year! I went to your Jag site but didn't know how to find you! So, photo/s would be great! I love photos!
 

whitexkr

Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2010
Messages
8
Location
Arlington, VA
OK, here is the the Maxjax with my car at the 'custom' height. The holes above and below are the standard ones. The hole at the very top is for storing the safety support when the lift is down.

Almost hate to post a picture of my dinky, sloppy little garage...but hey...it has a lift ! :)

I just posted an album with some of my ride pix...check it out.
 

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Joe From NY

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Joined
Feb 25, 2010
Messages
527
Location
NY
...

I used this hole saw: http://www.mcmaster.com/#hole-saws/=9v2ehj
(the 13/16 heavy duty bimetal one, 41005A17). You also need the matching arbor such as 4066A78. Cuts like butter with an ordinary hand drill (well almost)...it was not difficult. A hole saw that size is easier to handle cutting through steel with a hand drill than a regular drill bit (and less costly).

Let me take some pix and post them shortly.

That part number comes up as a 15/16" piece.
 

demoderbydave

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 4, 2010
Messages
114
Location
Spencer Mass
I have a Maxjax as well and contacted Dannmar about extending the hoses (there are other treads about that) to make a more permanent installation and they said UNOFFICIALLY it can be done. BUT they don't reccomend it...Same thing with drilling additional stop holes. In plain english do you think the lift is any more unsafe 6-8 inches lower on the same safety bars they provide? As long as the holes are drilled even and level on both sides once you release the pressure off the lift cylinders the bars hold it. Same thing with extending the hoses ...Off the record of course....Liability is a big thing these days...since it was not designed that way (and Dannmar bought this lift from Bendpak who designed it) unless they have it officially tested they will not "ok" any deviations from stock. Much like when you modify a car from stock ect. But if you read read the "well written" book that came with it...the most proment thing I got out of the whole thing is the end user is ultimately responsible and assumes all risks.....
The end result My hose modification works perfectly and I use my head before during and after anytime I use any thing that could kill me!
 

whitexkr

Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2010
Messages
8
Location
Arlington, VA
I have a Maxjax as well and contacted Dannmar about extending the hoses (there are other treads about that) to make a more permanent installation and they said UNOFFICIALLY it can be done. BUT they don't reccomend it...Same thing with drilling additional stop holes. In plain english do you think the lift is any more unsafe 6-8 inches lower on the same safety bars they provide? As long as the holes are drilled even and level on both sides once you release the pressure off the lift cylinders the bars hold it. Same thing with extending the hoses ...Off the record of course....Liability is a big thing these days...since it was not designed that way (and Dannmar bought this lift from Bendpak who designed it) unless they have it officially tested they will not "ok" any deviations from stock. Much like when you modify a car from stock ect. But if you read read the "well written" book that came with it...the most proment thing I got out of the whole thing is the end user is ultimately responsible and assumes all risks.....
The end result My hose modification works perfectly and I use my head before during and after anytime I use any thing that could kill me!

+1, completely agree.
 

Ted2barrel

New member
Joined
Jul 16, 2011
Messages
4
Retired auto tech teacher looking for a Max Jax dealer in MA. Saw one a few years ago at Carlisle. Like to talk to someone local who has one. Also want to install a snaplock floor. Time to fix up the garage.:headscrat
 

427HISS

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 15, 2005
Messages
746
I can get you one delivered. If you want more information on the flooring, I can also get you that.

email or call anytime.

402-781-2322
Kevin
 
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