Hi, I am very intrested in a group buy .drop me a line if you are able to put together . [email protected]
Hi, I am very intrested in a group buy .drop me a line if you are able to put together . [email protected]I'd go for a group buy. I've been squirreling away cash for one.
If Gabe ever shows up, maybe he can get something together for you guys. When I first got in on the first group buy, my new garage was only a vision in my head, and I had the lift almost a year before my garage. I knew I wanted a lift, and I knew the MaxJax would be the prefect lift for my situation, and it has lived up to the expectations![]()
One comment - please see the other thread about Maxjax Installations....
The anchor instructions from Dannmar are not correct. Dannmar packages Wej-It PD-58 Power Drop 5/8" anchors (7/8" OD) with the MaxJax.
As with my comments in the other thread, I strongly suggest testing any anchors installed as per the Dannmar process. If you are curious about the specific differences, either simply look at the instructions on the Wej-It site or let me know.
Reading all this, I'm wondering if you don't need portability or have a low ceiling why do you choose this lift over a full height asymmetrical 2-post lift?
Reading all this, I'm wondering if you don't need portability or have a low ceiling why do you choose this lift over a full height asymmetrical 2-post lift?
How many people have drilled an additional set of safety holes?
At my ceiling height lifting trucks and suvs require me to lower the lift quite a bit to get to the factory safety hole. Cars seem to be fine, but after searching I can only find one response from Danmarr saying that he wouldn't recomend drilling a set of holes "but you could".
You'll have to determine for yourself if you wan't o add an additional set of holes.
Thanks
How many people have drilled an additional set of safety holes?
At my ceiling height lifting trucks and suvs require me to lower the lift quite a bit to get to the factory safety hole. Cars seem to be fine, but after searching I can only find one response from Danmarr saying that he wouldn't recomend drilling a set of holes "but you could".
Thanks
?I put a set of holes in roughly halfway between the ones that are there. It was a necessaity because I have extremely low ceilings with ductwork on them. I used a hardened high quality holesaw (21mm, 13/16"). I get about a 3 foot lift..perfect to sit on the floor and work.
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I used this hole saw: http://www.mcmaster.com/#hole-saws/=9v2ehj
(the 13/16 heavy duty bimetal one, 41005A17). You also need the matching arbor such as 4066A78. Cuts like butter with an ordinary hand drill (well almost)...it was not difficult. A hole saw that size is easier to handle cutting through steel with a hand drill than a regular drill bit (and less costly).
Let me take some pix and post them shortly.
That part number comes up as a 15/16" piece.
I have a Maxjax as well and contacted Dannmar about extending the hoses (there are other treads about that) to make a more permanent installation and they said UNOFFICIALLY it can be done. BUT they don't reccomend it...Same thing with drilling additional stop holes. In plain english do you think the lift is any more unsafe 6-8 inches lower on the same safety bars they provide? As long as the holes are drilled even and level on both sides once you release the pressure off the lift cylinders the bars hold it. Same thing with extending the hoses ...Off the record of course....Liability is a big thing these days...since it was not designed that way (and Dannmar bought this lift from Bendpak who designed it) unless they have it officially tested they will not "ok" any deviations from stock. Much like when you modify a car from stock ect. But if you read read the "well written" book that came with it...the most proment thing I got out of the whole thing is the end user is ultimately responsible and assumes all risks.....
The end result My hose modification works perfectly and I use my head before during and after anytime I use any thing that could kill me!

