The Milwaukee addiction thread! :)
- Thread starter JustinsGr8
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DFB
Well-known member
Earthquake 12 ratchets get good reviews. Once again its the clone of the AC DELCO unit just like others in the Earthquake lineup.
Anybody see that recent Ave video with the Mikita impact wrench clone for $40
Anybody see that recent Ave video with the Mikita impact wrench clone for $40
Farmall450
Well-known member
DFB
Well-known member
AvE's tool comparison videos are just the best lol!
PelicanPines
ALLIANCE MEMBER
DFB
Well-known member
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kctyphoon
Banned
Something tells me this is the most expensive piece of PVC the phone company has ever purchased. I can't even find it on that companies website. The part numbers I think are in house Verizon #'s so they prob won't come up anywhere.
It's a piece of red PVC, a rubber boots, and three 3d printed clamps.. trying to find a price but I can't. We just got like a dozen of these. I’m dying to know what our company paid for these things..
It's a piece of red PVC, a rubber boots, and three 3d printed clamps.. trying to find a price but I can't. We just got like a dozen of these. I’m dying to know what our company paid for these things..
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kctyphoon
Banned
All cleaned.. handle and blades have some surface rust already. No big deal though. I'm surprised it got this clean. I basically scrubbed it with hot water / Dawn / and a brush, then hosed it off gentely and blew it out with a compressor.
Bolster
Well-known member
Wait. Wait a second. You can literally hose off a Milwaukee cordless tool? I'm stunned. Cordless tools can get wet? I had no idea they were that robust.
(Great job on the cleanup BTW.)
(Great job on the cleanup BTW.)
Farmall450
Well-known member
They all do. Just don't submerse them/run them until dried out.
kctyphoon
Banned
Lol.. well hold on a sec..
I have a slop sink in my basement. I put a metal wire shelf across the top to set the cutters on, and scrubbed it down. I have a 5’ garden hose extension with a hose nozzle on the end of the faucet. I gave the thing a few mistings of hot water without the battery in using the hose to remove all the dirt and mud a few times. I didn’t just blast it with water.. I’m sure SOME water got inside.. but its a brushless motor and sealed hydraulic system. The PCB board/boards I’m betting are epoxied to keep their tech hidden and protected. So aside from the switches I don’t think there’s much to worry about.. I don’t normally hose down my tools.. lol.. the thing was just too dirty to deal with and i wasn’t investing an hour trying to avoid the inevitable.
It’s not like half a gallon of water was sitting inside it.. after it was clean i let whatever little water was in it drip out, then went over to the compressor. Blew everything out, and let it sit for prob 2 hours while the bag went through the washer and dryer.
I mean yea - I’ve seen vids of guys dunking drills into buckets of water to test them.. that’s not what i did. Paper towels just weren’t cutting it. It needed soapy water and a scrub brush. Coated everything with wd40 when it was done.
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mobiledynamics
Well-known member
um, you missed a step. You forgot to put the vinyl/plastic dressing on it, or could go the extra mile and put some car sealant/wax on it
kctyphoon
Banned
um, you missed a step. You forgot to put the vinyl/plastic dressing on it, or could go the extra mile and put some car sealant/wax on it
The wd40 actually does a pretty good job at giving it a nice shine and also helps remove some stubborn embedded dirt.. there’s another spray thats suppose to work good.. cant rem the name. I rem Mechanicnamedjohn used to use it. Something from turtle wax maybe? Cant remember.. F109 protectant? I’m guessing..
303? I use griots interior rubber and plastic trim dressing.
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kctyphoon
Banned
Prob any of those plastic auto Protectants would work good.. i just sprayed some wd on an old dirty microfiber towel, put it on heavy, and then wiped it off with a slightly cleaner dirty microfiber towel. It works good enough for my purpose. For that anyway.. looks a million times better..
I don’t remember what i used once before on something else, and it took the white lettering off.. i think it was my first fuel drill that i wound up replacing anyway. (Found one on clearance at HD for like 1/2 price and sold my used on eBay)
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kctyphoon
Banned
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I like those
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Woohoo finally! Just saw that too & came here to see of anyone had posted yet.
But I'm cheap, gonna wait till I can get one on sale. Got the right angle when Tool Nut had the $20 of $100. Hopefully there will be another one when they are in stock.
All cleaned.. handle and blades have some surface rust already. No big deal though. I'm surprised it got this clean. I basically scrubbed it with hot water / Dawn / and a brush, then hosed it off gentely and blew it out with a compressor.
That makes me feel better - lol
i noticed that on the angle die grinder . took long enough.
wonder why they only gave the straight grinder 3 speeds instead? was hoping the straight one may be a little more robust.
im sure ill get one to leave a carbide burr in and keep the 2" flap disc on the 90 .
does anyone else with the 90 die grinder fine the collect a bit tight ?
milwaukee should have come up with a tool free solution to tighten the 1/4 shanks.
wonder why they only gave the straight grinder 3 speeds instead? was hoping the straight one may be a little more robust.
im sure ill get one to leave a carbide burr in and keep the 2" flap disc on the 90 .
does anyone else with the 90 die grinder fine the collect a bit tight ?
milwaukee should have come up with a tool free solution to tighten the 1/4 shanks.
Bighead38
Well-known member
Lol nice choice. I’m always surprised when I spray them with wd40 how much grease and oil actually comes off.
kctyphoon
Banned
Alright, serious question here..
If u were only gonna buy one, what do u think is the better die grinder to get? The straight or the RA?
I hopefully just sold my pneumatic die grinder that I never used, along with a bunch of other air tools.
If I was gonna replace it with an M12 model that I'll never use - what's the vote?
I'm thinking the RA would be the better one...
If u were only gonna buy one, what do u think is the better die grinder to get? The straight or the RA?
I hopefully just sold my pneumatic die grinder that I never used, along with a bunch of other air tools.
If I was gonna replace it with an M12 model that I'll never use - what's the vote?
I'm thinking the RA would be the better one...
RA is better IMO cause you can use finishing/sanding pads with it. Kind of awkard to use a straight die grinder for that. Straight die grinder is really best for carbide burs, sanding drums, small cut off wheels, etc.
When I worked in a shop I used both straight & RA a lot but I used the RA much more. I still have them & of all my air tools they are the only ones cordless haven't replaced yet. I do have the M12 RA & will be getting the straight also but I'm still keeping my air die grinders handy. All my other air tools have been stored away & I only use cordless replacements for those.
When I worked in a shop I used both straight & RA a lot but I used the RA much more. I still have them & of all my air tools they are the only ones cordless haven't replaced yet. I do have the M12 RA & will be getting the straight also but I'm still keeping my air die grinders handy. All my other air tools have been stored away & I only use cordless replacements for those.
LOL... you know the advice you would give someone?? Get both! Come on hahahhah
When I saw the straight yesterday I was thinking the same thing, which one? Each has its ideal uses, but I think I would prefer the RA as it is the best choice for sanding & surface prep. But the straight one could kinda be a dremel type replacement, though this was debated on ToolGuyD as saying the straight grinder is not exactly a rotary replacement, I kinda disagree. I think the straight grinder is perhaps as close as we will get to a Fuel rotary tool equivalent.
When I saw the straight yesterday I was thinking the same thing, which one? Each has its ideal uses, but I think I would prefer the RA as it is the best choice for sanding & surface prep. But the straight one could kinda be a dremel type replacement, though this was debated on ToolGuyD as saying the straight grinder is not exactly a rotary replacement, I kinda disagree. I think the straight grinder is perhaps as close as we will get to a Fuel rotary tool equivalent.
DFB
Well-known member
The RA for most people will be more useful and easier to hold and maneuver especially when grinding/sanding/cleaning using a flat disc.
If you're using bits more often in metal fab work, were deburring holes a lot, point grinding or even maybe for detailed polishing fobs the straight be better IMO.
I have to agree...need both on hand!
Even if you're not going to use them
DFB
Well-known member
Ya the lack of a dial speed control on the die grinder wont have it replacing a standard type of rotary tool for most people. Though the larger 1/4" collet is nice to have.
And of course bare tool price is a BIG factor too.
And of course bare tool price is a BIG factor too.
But could you use the paddle lever switch for reduced speed control, while not a constant speed modulator it could work in skilled hands.
Didn't realize at first the RA has 4 speeds (0-24500, 10k, 15k, 20k, 24.5k) and the straight only 3 speeds (0-21000). Assume the straight is 10k, 15k, 21k. But a lower speed 1 would be nicer.
Why does the accessory suggestion sheet for the straight not show discs or wire cups....
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Metalworking/Grinders/2485-20
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Material-Removal/Angle-Grinders/2486-20
Will there be a boot for the straight model?!?! LOL
Didn't realize at first the RA has 4 speeds (0-24500, 10k, 15k, 20k, 24.5k) and the straight only 3 speeds (0-21000). Assume the straight is 10k, 15k, 21k. But a lower speed 1 would be nicer.
Why does the accessory suggestion sheet for the straight not show discs or wire cups....
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Metalworking/Grinders/2485-20
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Material-Removal/Angle-Grinders/2486-20
Will there be a boot for the straight model?!?! LOL
DFB
Well-known member
I really think it's just all because of the intended use of an inline tool. Mainly for carbide tip deburrng/ stone point grinding and side wheel polishing.
Not that you really couldn't do it I would think I but possibly the straight grip along with rotary action of a wider disc or cup brush might be uncomfortable on the wrist. And an RA type of tool is probably better suited to the application.
Wouldn't want you to maybe get hurt.
Though not like using an open unshielded cutting wheel that is recommended right
Just as an FYI though much slower in RPM only 8300max (but waaay faster than any drill) the polisher/sander's pistol grip and side handle may be even more comfortable yet for certain sanding/rust removal tasks
I do see there is another thread on the latest M12 Fuel Die Grinder tools and someone there pointed out the possibly cumbersome fact that two wrenches are still needed to tighten and loosen the collet.
Both the Rotary Tool and the Polisher/Sander have a spindle lock button. And the 2438 is basically a tool less design
Shaners256
Well-known member
If you want to use the die grinders with 1/8" rotary tool bits, just buy the 1/8" collet.
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products-Repository/North-America/Accessories/Miscellaneous/Chucks-and-Collets/48-66-0965
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products-Repository/North-America/Accessories/Miscellaneous/Chucks-and-Collets/48-66-0965
I thought the M12 RA came with the 1/8 collet but shows optional on the parts list, wonder if the straight one will follow suit. Shocked they dont include something that cost what a few pennies.... 
Shaners256
Well-known member
I thought the M12 RA came with the 1/8 collet but shows optional on the parts list, wonder if the straight one will follow suit. Shocked they dont include something that cost what a few pennies....
It's actually very expensive.
Depends on your perspective of expensive.
Something that Milwaukee sells for less than $5 as an optional accessory, if included with every single one sold, the cost is scaled down to... pennies lol
Part number is 42-77-0405 if anyone needs.
Something that Milwaukee sells for less than $5 as an optional accessory, if included with every single one sold, the cost is scaled down to... pennies lol
Part number is 42-77-0405 if anyone needs.
Shaners256
Well-known member
48-66-0965 is the actual part number for the die grinder. I think you linked the rotary tool.
It's a surprisingly expensive part.
Not sure what 42-77-0405 is but 42-77-0400 is the $5 1/8" collet for the rotary tool, like the same type of little collet for a Dremel.
The die grinder 1/8 collet is like 4 times the price.
An alternative are these cheap 1/4" to 1/8" adapters. I have a similar one that came with one of my air die grinders. The actual 1/8" collect would be much better though.
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PelicanPines
ALLIANCE MEMBER
RA first... most logical. Two months later... straight... total satisfaction.
42-77-0405 was the part number from the RA grinder parts manual.
Yeah didnt realize when I googled the part it gave me the 42-77-0400 one.
FIG. PART NO. DESCRIPTION OF PART NO. REQ.
1 48-68-0031 Collet Nut 1
2 48-66-0974 1/4" Collet 1
5 --------------- Damper for Support 1
13 23-28-0340 Light Pipe 1
14 44-60-0575 Rivet Pin for Housing 1
15 44-94-0050 Rod 1
16 --------------- Housing Support Head 1
17 --------------- Housing Support Grip 1
18 06-82-3002 Housing Screw 11
19 --------------- Damper for Cover 1
20 --------------- Housing Cover Grip 1
21 --------------- Housing Cover Head 1
30 12-20-2430 Service Nameplate 1
31 10-20-0625 Warning Label 1
32 42-77-0405 1/8" Collet (Optional) Not Shown 1
33 49-96-4040 Open End Wrench (1/2") 1
34 49-96-4090 Open End Wrench (11/16") 1
35 42-55-2425 Contactor Bag 1
40 14-34-0002 Housing Kit 1
41 14-20-0070 Electronics Assembly 1
42 16-01-2405 Rotor Assembly 1
43 44-10-0520 Paddle Trigger Assembly 1
44 14-46-0166 1/4" Collet and Nut Kit 1
Yeah didnt realize when I googled the part it gave me the 42-77-0400 one.
FIG. PART NO. DESCRIPTION OF PART NO. REQ.
1 48-68-0031 Collet Nut 1
2 48-66-0974 1/4" Collet 1
5 --------------- Damper for Support 1
13 23-28-0340 Light Pipe 1
14 44-60-0575 Rivet Pin for Housing 1
15 44-94-0050 Rod 1
16 --------------- Housing Support Head 1
17 --------------- Housing Support Grip 1
18 06-82-3002 Housing Screw 11
19 --------------- Damper for Cover 1
20 --------------- Housing Cover Grip 1
21 --------------- Housing Cover Head 1
30 12-20-2430 Service Nameplate 1
31 10-20-0625 Warning Label 1
32 42-77-0405 1/8" Collet (Optional) Not Shown 1
33 49-96-4040 Open End Wrench (1/2") 1
34 49-96-4090 Open End Wrench (11/16") 1
35 42-55-2425 Contactor Bag 1
40 14-34-0002 Housing Kit 1
41 14-20-0070 Electronics Assembly 1
42 16-01-2405 Rotor Assembly 1
43 44-10-0520 Paddle Trigger Assembly 1
44 14-46-0166 1/4" Collet and Nut Kit 1
Kasal
Well-known member
Black300zx
Well-known member
The irony that the perfect tools to cut open plastic packing are, themselves, trapped inside PITA plastic packaging
I need a good set of sheet-metal shears. Interested to hear your thoughts on them.
Got some emails for sales on m12. Am I crazy, or has the fuel 1/2 ratchet surged in price? If I remember correctly, I saw it at 180 like the 3/8. On Home Depot right now, it’s 220. I could buy a long neck with that money!
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