The Milwaukee addiction thread! :)
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oldschoolcraft
Well-known member
For those of us without Facebook, I found discussion of it on Reddit, which does not require an account to view. Looks like it was an error in the system that's since been fixed.
"You got your chocolate in my peanut butter!"
RivennHewn
Well-known member
budo55
Well-known member
After researching numerous yard sprayers, I pulled the trigger on the M12 handheld 2528-21G2 2 gal sprayer. It was significantly cheaper on acme tools than amazon. Love this thing so far....
Catfishdan
Well-known member
I’ve had m12 stuff for years, but I finally decided to replace my big dewalt stuff with m18 fuel. My sawzall was broken and my circular saw was no longer true so it was time. It was a good day yesterday.
And it all fits!
And it all fits!
budo55
Well-known member
Curious as I have a bunch...did you sell them?
oldschoolcraft
Well-known member
I'm not an expert in M18 battery types, I dont even own M18 tools yet, but would like to get into the platform especially if there's an amazing deal on batteries. But that requires I do a lot of research onto which batteries I want, and what good prices are for sales so if it pops up, I know I'm getting a super steal and should buy it. Even if I dont have any M18 tools. Yet.
I am familiar with the M12 line up. You have the compact CP batteries and then the bigger sized flat square base batteries. The 6.0 has reliability issues. The CP1.5 and XC 3.0 is a cheap bundle-fodder. The good M12s are CP 2.0, CP 2.5 HO, XC 4.0 and XC 5.0 HO. You want some CP and some XC because of the physical size of the batteries.
I'd like someone to help me understand the M18 battery line in the same degree that I understand the M12. Here's a list of the M18 Batteries listed on Milwaukee's Website:
I already have the M12 lineup so I'm not sure if I'd ever need M18 CP batteries. I think if I'm going to get an M18 tools, it's because the M12 version of that tool isn't powerful enough. An analogy, if someone has an AR chambered in 556 and adds a 12 gauge because they want more power against bears, then buying a shotgun and then birdshot as your only ammo for the shotgun doesnt make sense.
I am familiar with the M12 line up. You have the compact CP batteries and then the bigger sized flat square base batteries. The 6.0 has reliability issues. The CP1.5 and XC 3.0 is a cheap bundle-fodder. The good M12s are CP 2.0, CP 2.5 HO, XC 4.0 and XC 5.0 HO. You want some CP and some XC because of the physical size of the batteries.
I'd like someone to help me understand the M18 battery line in the same degree that I understand the M12. Here's a list of the M18 Batteries listed on Milwaukee's Website:
- CP 1.5 (just called "Compact")
- CP 2.0
- CP 3.0 High Output
- XC 3.0 (just called "Extended")
- XC 4.0
- XC 5.0
- XC 5.0 Oil Resistant
- XC 6.0
- XC 6.0 Forge
- XC 6.0 High Output
- XC 8.0 High Output
- HD 12.0 High Output
I already have the M12 lineup so I'm not sure if I'd ever need M18 CP batteries. I think if I'm going to get an M18 tools, it's because the M12 version of that tool isn't powerful enough. An analogy, if someone has an AR chambered in 556 and adds a 12 gauge because they want more power against bears, then buying a shotgun and then birdshot as your only ammo for the shotgun doesnt make sense.
I think the important thing is to know what batteries to avoid. The M18 platform has a ton of different batteries now. I'd say the 1.5/2/XC 3.0 and the 9.0 (are they still selling those?) are the ones to avoid. As far as the 4.0, I don't know that I've ever even seen one but I wouldn't bother with that battery. The CP 3.0 is awesome for tools like the OMT, drills, impacts and so forth. The 5.0 has been the standard starter battery forever and I really like it for the smaller vacuums and lights. Decent run time and not too heavy. Its ok on the drills/impacts but since the CP 3.0 came out, that is my goto for those applications.
The forge line is basically brand new, I think they are supposed to have a high sustained output, I can't remember what those are for exactly but its high demand tools of some sort?
The 6.0 HO and 8.0 HO use the larger batteries but I think a lot of people have said that the 6.0 and 8.0 are basically the same battery with a different internal layout. If I remember correctly, the 6.0 HO is the one you want, I think people have been disappointed with the 8.0 as they don't seem to make any/much difference compared to the 6.0, but I'll let some other people chime in on that. I've used both in my chainsaw and I seem to get about the same performance from them.
The oil resistant batteries are built for mechanics, they handle the oils and solvents of automotive work without breaking down, supposedly. They are new and I don't know anyone running those. The 12.0 batteries are for high power draw tools like the mower (takes 2 at a time), table saws, chains saw, stuff like that. I dislike the 12.0 for lights because of the way that the lights calculate power left, they weren't made with batteries that big in mind and start warning flashing WAY too early with these bigger batteries.
I'm sure others will chime in with some useful opinions on the various AH batteries and their uses.
The forge line is basically brand new, I think they are supposed to have a high sustained output, I can't remember what those are for exactly but its high demand tools of some sort?
The 6.0 HO and 8.0 HO use the larger batteries but I think a lot of people have said that the 6.0 and 8.0 are basically the same battery with a different internal layout. If I remember correctly, the 6.0 HO is the one you want, I think people have been disappointed with the 8.0 as they don't seem to make any/much difference compared to the 6.0, but I'll let some other people chime in on that. I've used both in my chainsaw and I seem to get about the same performance from them.
The oil resistant batteries are built for mechanics, they handle the oils and solvents of automotive work without breaking down, supposedly. They are new and I don't know anyone running those. The 12.0 batteries are for high power draw tools like the mower (takes 2 at a time), table saws, chains saw, stuff like that. I dislike the 12.0 for lights because of the way that the lights calculate power left, they weren't made with batteries that big in mind and start warning flashing WAY too early with these bigger batteries.
I'm sure others will chime in with some useful opinions on the various AH batteries and their uses.
Odd-job
Well-known member
To add to Rusty67's comments
10+ years and I haven't had a 5.0 bite the dust yet despite torturing them with higher powered tools in the linup. Must have 4-5 them floating around. Meanwhile all but one 9.0 is still kicking around. Its probably newer as well and is on its last legs.
6.0's are pretty good for high output tools as well when you don't feel like slinging two 12.0s on your dual battery blower with one arm... I hear 8.0s are little more fragile and prioritized amp hours (capacity) over a higher draw vs the 6.0s. Only have one 8.0 though.
Still waiting for some good deals on the 6.0 forge, but don't feel like I "need it yet" due to the 6.0 HO being so capable. Oh, and one of my 6.0's seems like a lame duck relative to the others with a noticeable lack of capacity of 20-30%. This is 1/5 so am hoping its a fluke.
10+ years and I haven't had a 5.0 bite the dust yet despite torturing them with higher powered tools in the linup. Must have 4-5 them floating around. Meanwhile all but one 9.0 is still kicking around. Its probably newer as well and is on its last legs.
6.0's are pretty good for high output tools as well when you don't feel like slinging two 12.0s on your dual battery blower with one arm... I hear 8.0s are little more fragile and prioritized amp hours (capacity) over a higher draw vs the 6.0s. Only have one 8.0 though.
Still waiting for some good deals on the 6.0 forge, but don't feel like I "need it yet" due to the 6.0 HO being so capable. Oh, and one of my 6.0's seems like a lame duck relative to the others with a noticeable lack of capacity of 20-30%. This is 1/5 so am hoping its a fluke.
mobiledynamics
Well-known member
I think I have a second bad 9 but we shall see....
Only noticed it when I used it on my Dual Battery Blower and noticed the charge was way different after used.
I labeled it *bad*. It did test short cell at the service center. **However**, I've relegated this to use in my Packet Vac and it's not like a notice a difference based on use case, etc. I just charge it whenever, etc....
Only noticed it when I used it on my Dual Battery Blower and noticed the charge was way different after used.
I labeled it *bad*. It did test short cell at the service center. **However**, I've relegated this to use in my Packet Vac and it's not like a notice a difference based on use case, etc. I just charge it whenever, etc....
Me personally, the only batteries I would currently buy are the CP3.0 HO, XC5.0, 6.0 HO, 8.0 HO, & 12.0 HO
Why not the 5.0 Oil Resistant? Cause they're still fairly new so might not be very many good deals on them yet. And I wouldn't pay extra for the oil resistance unless I really needed it, which I won't. I'm currently working in automotive again but not repairs so I don't come in contact with automotive fluids.
Why not the 6.0 Forge, same story, too new. They're still too expensive IMO, I'm cheap, I will never pay full price for batteries & never have. Also IMO, MW only made it to jump on the pouch cell bandwagon so they wouldn't be left out in sales. Also because they are new, who knows how long they will last. I also don't like the bulky case size. I hear the upcoming Forge packs will be going back to cylindrical cells but they will be the new "tab-less" ones.
I'm surprised XC6.0 is on that list if that is a current list from MW. The XC6.0 (non HO) I assumed was no longer in production, wasn't very popular here in the US. It uses the same case as the 5.0 with just higher capacity cells. The HO packs came out not long after which I just assumed superceded the XC6.0. XC (3.0) & XC 4.0 are the same case size as the 5.0 so IMO no sense in even considering buy them unless you can get them for stupid cheap. I have a XC but I got it for free, rarely use it.
Same deal with the 6.0 HO & the 8.0 HO, they use the same case. Since they are the same size, I opted to buy the 8.0 HO. However the 21700 cells used in the 6.0 HO have higher current draw than the higher capacity cells used in the 8.0 HO. So the 6.0 HO will perform better in tools that demand power. I only bought the 8.0 HO cause I got a good deal on it & just in case my 9.0 ever died. Turns out my 9.0 isn't from the generation that were known to die, mine is still working fine (*knock on wood)
I don't really own any tools that are power hungry so I'd rather have the runtime and is why I don't own any 6.0 HO. I personally don't like the case of the HO packs & only use them when needed. I hate that they are longer in the front of the case. Speaking of which, I don't have any tools that require the use of the 12.0 HO. I regret buying it, again, only got it cause I got a good deal on it, I can definitely live without it.
My most used & preferred pack to use is still the 5.0. Again because it doesn't have that extra length in the front like HO packs, less bulky & lighter than the XC HO packs. They give me great runtime with the tools I use the most. My second most used is the CP3.0 but I use them far less than the 5.0s. Again don't like that they stick out further in the front but they are much lighter & still able to deliver good power.
Damn, that ended up being way longer than I had anticipated!
Edit: Forgot to add.... reliability. I will add 8.0 HO to that list. My 8.0 HO out of the blue would no longer full charge. Was barely still in warranty, sent it in & MW replaced it. A couple of months later, same exact failure happened to my buddy with his 8.0. I sent it in for him, again MW replaced it.
Irrelevant since they are no longer made but the 9.0 was known to fail. But as I briefly mentioned earlier, supposedly it was the early generation ones that were known to fail & they can be distinguished by the type of labels on them. I have the newer gen.
12.0 is said to have a high failure rate. So do the M12 6.0 but my 12.0 & none of my M12 6.0s have yet to give me any issues.
I currently have six 5.0s. Four of them are from 2015 and are still working fine to this day. Two of them became unbalanced last year, my fault for neglecting to use them. Well out of warranty so I rebalanced them & they haven't gave me any more issues since. Now I rotate 2 of 6 every 2 months at work since I don't get to use them that much at home anymore.
Any other packs that I think I might not use in a while, I will discharge them down to storage level voltage. I never used to do that before.
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I'm under the weather, braindead and lazy today and now have a headache. Let's see what y'all have to point me in a simple direction.
Which M12 3/8 drive impact gun is capable of taking off lug nuts? This task would be it's primary goal on a 5 lug vehicle. Good gawd I'm finding more info than I can process and I am not interested in M18, nor purchasing any 1/2" sockets. I'd like to use what I have for sockets but would like to replace my current gun on a platform I already have. Thanks...
Which M12 3/8 drive impact gun is capable of taking off lug nuts? This task would be it's primary goal on a 5 lug vehicle. Good gawd I'm finding more info than I can process and I am not interested in M18, nor purchasing any 1/2" sockets. I'd like to use what I have for sockets but would like to replace my current gun on a platform I already have. Thanks...
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oldschoolcraft
Well-known member
What kind of car? A sedan might have 75 ft pounds of torque and a pickup truck might have 100 to 150 foot pounds of torque on them.
Also, why 3/8 drive?
My strategy was to buy an M12 1/2" drive fuel impact wrench a few years ago. Eventually I'll get some newer generation M12 that is more powerful, or an M18 that is more powerful. Then the older M12 1/2" drive can become a dedicated car trunk tool for tire changes.
Similar to how people will buy the newest iPhone and hand their old phone to their kids. Every two years they get the newest iPhone and every two years their kids get a "new" two year old phone.
You could probably find a used M12 1/2" impact wrench that's one or two generations old that has enough torque, get it at a decent price used off eBay or FB Marketplace, buy a single of the 1/2" impact socket that fits your lug nuts off Tekton, and then use that as a dedicated tire tool. Then if you still need 3/8 for something else, maybe consider the ratchets.
I dont have a lot of car work experience so forgive my ignorance if what I'm saying is ridiculous. It seems reasonable to me to pair a 1/2" impact wrench "gun" with a 3/8" cordless ratchet. You're generally doing more compact stuff with the 3/8 where the gun might not fit. And where the gun does fit, might as well use 1/2" drive. You can get 1/2" drive impact sockets down to 10mm. If you can fit a 3/8" impact gun with 10mm impact socket you can probably also fit a 1/2" impact gun with a 1/2" drive 10mm socket.
But if you lack full access and are limited in clearance then a 3/8 cordless ratchet would shine. Some guys even say they like 1/4" drive cordless ratchets.
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assassin10000
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- 370
Depends on if your working on trucks or have rust.
Here in CA I've used my 3/8" drive converted 2553 and 3453 to pull lug nuts on passenger cars and some light duty pickups. But if overtorque'd, rusty or cross threaded it isn't enough. The closest equivalent that Milwaukee actually produces is the
2454-20
M12 FUEL™ 3/8” Impact Wrench
The M12 FUEL™ 3/8” Impact Wrench provides up to 3X longer motor life, up to 2X more runtime, and proprietary Milwaukee® 2-Mode DRIVE CONTROL™ for better control over the power and speed required for specific applications.
www.milwaukeetool.com
The better bet would be the 2554-20 (or 2555-20 for 1/2"). There's a couple of these in the shop and they do the majority of wheels/lugs except for extremely overtorque'd or cross threaded.
M12 FUEL Stubby 3/8" Impact Wrench | Milwaukee Tool
MILWAUKEE® M12 FUEL™ 3/8" Stubby Impact Wrench is the industry's most compact cordless impact wrench at 5.1" in length, featuring 250 ft-lb of breakaway torque, and 4-mode drive control
www.milwaukeetool.com
If you're in the rust belt, you'll need an m18 mid torque at the very least.
A jeep GC SUV and a Subaru Legacy, no rust here in coastal SC. My cars live in a climate controlled garage.
My older (>12yrs) Ridgid 3/8" 18V does it but I'm trying to get rid of a battery platform and replace the couple of Ridgid tools that I have left w/m12 to simplify to only two battery platforms. .
I've replaced most of my Ridgids (they're heavy for my Arthritic body) so far with M12 and they have met my needs, the gun would probably be next. After that an M12 Jigsaw and 3" cut-off tool will deplete me to only 2 battery platforms.
My 1/2" drive impacts went down the road awhile ago while downsizing and 3/8" drive has proven to be adequate for my needs at this point in life. I'm not into a lot of DIY at this point, but I'm not quite ready yet to give up what I enjoy, but a new battery platform and sockets and stuff is not me these days.
Thank y'all
Two passenger vehicles, a midsize sedan and an SUV. I don't FB or EBay.
I'm downsizing and simplifying. The rest goes to my stepson when the time comes, he already has 75% of what I had and knows it's a 900 mile trip if he wants the rest.
I have all of what I need just want to get rid of my last 3 older ridgid tools and replace with lighter m12, the only one that is a concern for ability to perform is the impact gun.
I only use it as a travel tool to remove a wheel. I'm addicted to flat tires and If I feel capable and don't want to wait for AAA, I will change it.
Trust me I don't have 30 pairs of vice grips and pipewrenches anymore either...just 1 pw and 2 vg.
I have 3/8 impact sockets, my 1/2" impact stuff is gone. My Ridgid 18V 3/8' has pulled anything I have or will need to...
oldschoolcraft
Well-known member
You are clear that you dont want to buy new impact sockets, but I think you're making a mistake. I'll give you two things to consider and then I'll drop it.
You can buy single impact sockets from Tekton for around $6 each. So at most, you'll need to drop $14 on two sockets from them. Direct link to their 1/2 drive impact singles. Free shipping over $50 and 10% reward back on future purchases.
If you're buying a whole new tool (3/8" impact wrench) then it doesnt seem too out of line to buy one or two individual sockets for it. I dont think you'd be carrying the entire 3/8" impact socket set you already have in your car with you at all times, just to change lug nuts, you'd pull the one or two sockets out you need from the kit, and store the rest in your garage.
If you have nice wheels you probably dont want to use regular impact sockets anyway, you want to use protective ones that have plastic shielding to avoid marring up the wheels. Here's a set from Astro, but they come from many companies. As far as I know, they only come in 1/2" drive because most people wouldn't consider 3/8" the appropriate tool for tire changes.
Whatever you decide to do, good luck, and post pictures of your new tool for us to be jealous of!
Not clear enough...lol
I have the sizes I need in 3/8, these 3 tools will be my last ever purchase unless I break something.
I have what I need in 3/8 for the rims and a set of the rest of the common sizes and if I have a 1/2" and need something else I gotta buy more not happening. You're not helpful as to which 3/8 milwaukee will work you want me to upgrade. The only thing I wish to upgrade is my >12yo 3/8 ridgid. I don't want to buy anymore ridgid batteries I have plenty of m12 batteries probably more than enough til I'm ready to check out or can't walk or whatever my next hurdle is. I should have been dead at 53 but my body somehow keeps going even 13 years later, just not as smoothly.
I've never considered myself to be like most.
If I were you, I'd buy the 1/2" and a set of lug nut impact sockets and then use an adapter to adapt down to 3/8" to use your existing impact sockets for anything else. The M12 subby 1/2" is really compact so you aren't really going to lose too much space with a 3/8" step down. If you aren't willing to do that, get the M12 subby 3/8" impact.
assassin10000
Well-known member
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- Feb 11, 2022
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The M12 stubby 3/8" impact should do it for you then. 2554-20
This is also an option.
OK, after enough hemming and hawing, resistance turned out to be futile, and I've finally broken the seal...
...and pulled the trigger on my first M12 tool, the 2567-20 ratchet (Fuel, 3/8, high-speed, standard length).
Got it with a CP2.5 battery, sale price was $159 from HD about a month ago.
Very impressed with this tool so far (used it once, for 5 fasteners, LOL). Here it is next to my 2853-20 (M18 Fuel impact driver, part of my first M18 purchase back in 2020), which I'd been using for such jobs. The size and weight difference is awesome (obviously).
I like that you can use it as a manual ratchet to snug up a fastener, but don't think I can get much torque with it due to the length (and girth) of the body. But, I'm pretty happy with it overall.
I'll probably replace the head with a tall shifter knob eventually. Not a big fan of the stock recessessed one for the type of use I'll have for it (not expecting to use something this large in tight enough areas where that extra 1/4-inch depth would matter).
Next slippery slope to avoid will be adding excessive Packout as I build an M12 fleet (although, I've already crossed that bridge for my M18 grease gun). But, I despise tool bags (no tool protection, can't stack them, waste of space), and this came as a bare tool, so I'll watch for a PO sale.
For now, it's in a Homer bucket that I use for carting stuff to / from jobs (ironically, next to the hard case that my first M18 set came in!!!).
FWIW, this will only be used for DIY work at home / garage.
Mike
...and pulled the trigger on my first M12 tool, the 2567-20 ratchet (Fuel, 3/8, high-speed, standard length).
Got it with a CP2.5 battery, sale price was $159 from HD about a month ago.
Very impressed with this tool so far (used it once, for 5 fasteners, LOL). Here it is next to my 2853-20 (M18 Fuel impact driver, part of my first M18 purchase back in 2020), which I'd been using for such jobs. The size and weight difference is awesome (obviously).
I like that you can use it as a manual ratchet to snug up a fastener, but don't think I can get much torque with it due to the length (and girth) of the body. But, I'm pretty happy with it overall.
I'll probably replace the head with a tall shifter knob eventually. Not a big fan of the stock recessessed one for the type of use I'll have for it (not expecting to use something this large in tight enough areas where that extra 1/4-inch depth would matter).
Next slippery slope to avoid will be adding excessive Packout as I build an M12 fleet (although, I've already crossed that bridge for my M18 grease gun). But, I despise tool bags (no tool protection, can't stack them, waste of space), and this came as a bare tool, so I'll watch for a PO sale.
For now, it's in a Homer bucket that I use for carting stuff to / from jobs (ironically, next to the hard case that my first M18 set came in!!!).
FWIW, this will only be used for DIY work at home / garage.
Mike
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oldschoolcraft
Well-known member
I can't figure out the differences between the impact ratchets and impact wrenches with respect to usage. What I think, is that the gun-shaped wrenches have more power to delivery more torque, but the tradeoff is they are bigger tools and won't fit in cramped places.
So you have the ratchets which are more streamlined and can fit in more places, but have less power.
But then within the ratchets themselves, some are higher speed/lower torque, and some are higher torque/lower speed.
I'm not a professional mechanic but to me it would make sense to get higher torque/lower speed ratchet, because how much faster can the higher speed one possibly be? So it takes a little longer to use by 1 or 2 seconds per fastener, but it's better than stalling out and lacking the torque to turn the fastener at all. BUT obviously I'm not a professional because it seems like the pros prefer the high speed/low torque ones
It also seems like the ratchets come in two lengths, regular and long, but it seems like the long only comes in high speed/low torque version.
Personally what makes the most sense to me, would a long high torque ratchet. Help me reach into places hard to get and have enough torque to break harder fasteners. But I dont think they make that.
But then there's also the mid-torque guns, which also dont make much sense to me. I guess they fit places where the bigger guns can't, but can't quite fit all of the places where the ratchets can? Or is the purpose of midtorque to have a lighter tool that is easier on your body holding it for long periods of time when you dont need as much torque and you have a lot of access?
So you have the ratchets which are more streamlined and can fit in more places, but have less power.
But then within the ratchets themselves, some are higher speed/lower torque, and some are higher torque/lower speed.
I'm not a professional mechanic but to me it would make sense to get higher torque/lower speed ratchet, because how much faster can the higher speed one possibly be? So it takes a little longer to use by 1 or 2 seconds per fastener, but it's better than stalling out and lacking the torque to turn the fastener at all. BUT obviously I'm not a professional because it seems like the pros prefer the high speed/low torque ones
It also seems like the ratchets come in two lengths, regular and long, but it seems like the long only comes in high speed/low torque version.
Personally what makes the most sense to me, would a long high torque ratchet. Help me reach into places hard to get and have enough torque to break harder fasteners. But I dont think they make that.
But then there's also the mid-torque guns, which also dont make much sense to me. I guess they fit places where the bigger guns can't, but can't quite fit all of the places where the ratchets can? Or is the purpose of midtorque to have a lighter tool that is easier on your body holding it for long periods of time when you dont need as much torque and you have a lot of access?
I don't think there's a perfect tool for all use cases. I asked questions and read a TON of user feedback before buying this one. The consensus seemed to be that these are meant to speed things up, and torquing (and breaking free) should be left for other tools (power or manual).
Mike
Mike
oldschoolcraft
Well-known member
I've heard there's some stuck fasteners that will respond better to the impact motion, than anything else. Which is something you can't reproduce by hand manually.
This is incorrect, you can use an impact driver like this with a hammer to impact things by hand. They look like this:
I will say, you need clear/straight access to the bolt head to make it work so it REALLY doesn't work in tight places but it is a thing for sure.
The ratchet impact I'm talking about is this guy:
It is a ratchet form factor with an impact mechanism in the 90* head. I have the 3/8 drive and 1/2 drive and they work remarkably well in tight spaces. I'll probably never buy an M12 ratchet because I've got these and if they won't fit I can just use a standard ratchet. The use case gap for me between these and a standard ratchet is so small I don't see a need to get one.
oldschoolcraft
Well-known member
That's really cool, I wasn't familiar with those. I think that might be my first 3/8" drive "ratchet" shaped impact!The ratchet impact I'm talking about is this guy:
It is a ratchet form factor with an impact mechanism in the 90* head. I have the 3/8 drive and 1/2 drive and they work remarkably well in tight spaces. I'll probably never buy an M12 ratchet because I've got these and if they won't fit I can just use a standard ratchet. The use case gap for me between these and a standard ratchet is so small I don't see a need to get one.
LopezBart
Well-known member
This is my go-to for stuck fasteners that tend to cam-out: I found this tool is essential for loosening old-style JIS head screws on motorcycle cases. The hammer blow neatly counteracts the force pushing the bit out of the socket.This is incorrect, you can use an impact driver like this with a hammer to impact things by hand. They look like this:
You should try the Vessel Megadora impact line. They are JIS compatible philips drivers that have a small impact mechanism in them and they are made to be hammered on. I can't tell you how much time they have saved me because you can use them everywhere on the bike and just grab a hammer and give them a whack when you need the impact action. The hand impact driver is what I used before I found those drivers to deal with stuck JIS fasteners. The other thing is that they fit the JIS screw SO much better that you don't have to break out the hammer nearly as often.
This is incorrect, you can use an impact driver like this with a hammer to impact things by hand. They look like this:
I will say, you need clear/straight access to the bolt head to make it work so it REALLY doesn't work in tight places but it is a thing for sure.
The ratchet impact I'm talking about is this guy:
It is a ratchet form factor with an impact mechanism in the 90* head. I have the 3/8 drive and 1/2 drive and they work remarkably well in tight spaces. I'll probably never buy an M12 ratchet because I've got these and if they won't fit I can just use a standard ratchet. The use case gap for me between these and a standard ratchet is so small I don't see a need to get one.
Well, looks like I should have bought one of THOSE...
Mike
ThatSickRip
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- May 23, 2017
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M18 inflator came today. Ive got 2 of the M12, so couldnt justify getting the M18 for a while, but between the $299 6.0 kit and a 15% promo code, I got it for $95.19 so I caved
Probably going to return the batteries, I need to marinate on it. They came out to $159 so debating it
Probably going to return the batteries, I need to marinate on it. They came out to $159 so debating it
budo55
Well-known member
Yes, I have them both. I like the sprayer...a lot and love the pruner.
Anyone have the Milwaukee impact sockets? Specifically the 1/2" metric.
They're a bit expensive and made in China, but there are some things I like about them too.
Just curious how they hold up and if they're worth the extra cost.
They're a bit expensive and made in China, but there are some things I like about them too.
Just curious how they hold up and if they're worth the extra cost.
oldschoolcraft
Well-known member
No experience with them to share, but you might find it interesting that I am a country of origin guy, would generally never buy Chinese-made tools, except power tools where there isn't an option anymore, but for some reason Milwaukee gets a pass from me. And I've noticed someone else make a similar observation. So I made this meme for you:
Nope not me. I admit I'll buy Chinese made tools depending on the case but I won't buy MW hand tools even though all my cordless stuff is M18/M12. Their hand tools are way overpriced IMO for what they are. Even their newer "USA made" hand tools, not impressed with them either.