One more piece to your puzzle:
Our cars' alternators produce AC voltage and then it's "rectified" to DC.
The Milwaukee addiction thread! :)
- Thread starter JustinsGr8
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One more piece to your puzzle:
Our cars' alternators produce AC voltage and then it's "rectified" to DC.
One of my friends is an electrical engineer I asked him about this he said for anything with radios like a phone or a bluetooth it becomes AC again because you can’t have a radio frequency without AC since your changing between + and - to make the radio waves
so you got AC in alternator turning to DC in battery back to AC in anything making radio waves
Cc_windsurfer
Well-known member
Dc-dc is usually very inefficient. The "right" way to do this is to convert it to high frequency ac then back to DC. ( switched mode power supply)
allinon72
Well-known member
Can anyone comment on the installation driver? Ive been finding myself using a regular drill more and more to drive screws rather than an impact, so it makes sense to have the smaller form factor of the installation driver. Worth the money?
Its good for lower torque stuff. I used it once or twice, thought I would use it all the time. If you are working in tight areas, the attachments would be great but I just use my M12 surge impact for basically everything. I don't regret the purchase, its a good tool for light duty stuff like cabinets but I just don't do that kind of work almost ever.
iron block
Well-known member
I bought one a while back to install magnetic latches on a large number of cupboard/closet doors. The right-angle attachment got a workout, and the offset driver head was helpful in tight spots.
Since then it gets regular use in light-duty jobs, especially those in tight quarters.
Most recently I used it with a bore brush to de-rust the many enclosed surfaces of an eggcrate grille on an old car; the light weight was appreciated, as was the pistol grip comfort and control.
I never use it for heavy (or even medium) duty drilling in metal; there are better tools for that. But for the right jobs, the installation driver kit is well worth the money IMHO.
mobiledynamics
Well-known member
Well, who here has the new stubby -long enough- to gauge is it consistent enough in power for lugs ?
For the OG stubby, I always gravitate and grab my mid, as it was just under-whelming with the power on on it, as it just more -productive- to just have the appropriated tool that had enough power
For the OG stubby, I always gravitate and grab my mid, as it was just under-whelming with the power on on it, as it just more -productive- to just have the appropriated tool that had enough power
LeeG
Well-known member
Here is my initial review from when it was released about five years ago.
After all this time, I still use it often - for driving screws of all sizes, and drilling in wood. I still haven't totally gotten used to the "reverse switch on top" thing because its my only drill or driver with that "feature". The offset and 90° heads can be real time savers. I highly recommend it.
Lee
bcradio
Well-known member
I got my new 3/8 stubby yesterday and am excited to put it to use. The mode selector is odd, but I guess I'll get used to it. Seems really powerful in the hand, but haven't put it through it's paces yet
I keep thinking about getting one, but my M12 Surge is so versatile, quiet and powerful (but gentle in Mode 1) I don't bother. The angle thing just doesn't happen enough for me to justify the Installation Driver.
That said, people who have it seem to love it except for the forward/reverse being a button on the top vs. a switch like a regular drill.
jeffmoss26
Well-known member
Mohawk Dave
Well-known member
Hey all,
Edit: I just went back down this rabbit hole a little. Looks like the info may be outdated by now, but the older UK version was the M12 FPDX, and it has a physical F/R switch plus hammer drill mode. Anyway, I'll leave this info here for future reference. Here's a thread with more detail....https://www.reddit.com/r/MilwaukeeTool/comments/th3z16/installation_driver_vs_fpdx_side_by_side/
I was just briefly looking into these and a bunch of dudes on Reddit said the UK version (of the m12) is so much better etc. I did not do a deep dive on researching that yet, but just thought I'd plant that seed. Maybe one of you guys know more about this already....
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Openrecall
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- Sep 13, 2024
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Does anyone have the head dimensions of a Milwaukee 2569-20?
Odd-job
Well-known member
These are nice.
The MW-2 on the 3/8 original ratchet could be sized a little smaller in diameter to better match the size of the head. We'll see if the extra material catches on anything.
Have to put these through their paces still but seems easier and less hassle then swapping the mechanism.
The MW-2 on the 3/8 original ratchet could be sized a little smaller in diameter to better match the size of the head. We'll see if the extra material catches on anything.
Have to put these through their paces still but seems easier and less hassle then swapping the mechanism.
assassin10000
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- Joined
- Feb 11, 2022
- Messages
- 370
It's the same as the standard length high speed fuel 3/8 ratchet iirc.
These are nice.
The MW-2 on the 3/8 original ratchet could be sized a little smaller in diameter to better match the size of the head. We'll see if the extra material catches on anything.
Have to put these through their paces still but seems easier and less hassle then swapping the mechanism.
Interesting. I don't know that I'd trust (any) magnets enough to use that near an engine bay. Maybe a small screw could be added?
Mike
Odd-job
Well-known member
The high speed/small head has a pretty tight fit with an o ring, I think its going to be really hard to knock it off. The regular MW-2 doesn't sit as flush and does not seem as secure. I am guessing this will eventually catch on something.
If and when I drop one of the ratchets I'll let you guys know if the knob flies off into oblivion.
Odd-job
Well-known member
this is from my 1/4 non high speed. I had to measure to confirm the ratchet knob high speed actually fit.
iron block
Well-known member
I wonder if the ratchet knob guy will see a GJ spike in sales? Just ordered mine...
Odd-job
Well-known member
Looks like the high speed version is sold out 
@mikey03 looks like you are out of luck for now. Guessing the insider ratchet isn't too popular yet. I would get one if it were compatible with Astro nano sockets?
@Rusty67 for machined aluminum and the price these are a decent value. My 3D printer doesn't do ABS . Super glue and a grinder might be needed on the regular MW2 eventually.
@mikey03 looks like you are out of luck for now. Guessing the insider ratchet isn't too popular yet. I would get one if it were compatible with Astro nano sockets?
@Rusty67 for machined aluminum and the price these are a decent value. My 3D printer doesn't do ABS
. Super glue and a grinder might be needed on the regular MW2 eventually.Odd-job
Well-known member
The only thing that will fix my janky Creality might be the Sawzall...
There's definitely some beauty in a completely custom offering that ticks all the personal boxes instead of compromising. I'm going to wait on upgrading my 3D printer though until you post your design on Thingiverse.
There's definitely some beauty in a completely custom offering that ticks all the personal boxes instead of compromising. I'm going to wait on upgrading my 3D printer though until you post your design on Thingiverse.
I think it’s because the insider is not symmetrical it is on the back and idk why you’d want to use it with Astro nanos tbh the insider sockets are pretty low profile. They do have a 3/8 adapter to use any impacts you want though but idk which would be smaller
Odd-job
Well-known member
I'm really surprised given all of the Milwaukee you have.
I was going to complain about having to buy Milwaukee's specialty sockets, but I now see the ratchet comes with a set of metrics at least.
I do appreciate the nanos as they have become fairly ubiquitous under various brands. Lower profile is always nice. Also am dealing with limited real estate in my tool cart. Understand Milwaukee is dealing with packaging constraints between head size and durability, but it would have been nice to accommodate a 17mm hex vs the 15mm proprietary sockets they came up with in my personal opinion.
I think the M12 ratchet line turned me off because of how many of them there are. I have NEVER liked air ratchets because I just never got used to how they worked and they were too big to fit too often so I got used to using regular traditional ratchets. I do however have the 90* impacts that are basically a ratchet with an impact head and I don't use them much but when I do I absolutely LOVE them. Used the hell out of those when I did the motor swap on my Mach 1 and they saved a bunch of time. I think since I have those, I feel no need to get anything else in the M12 ratchet line.
I gave into the addiction and picked up some new additions to "team red" recently.
I opted for the 1/2" mid-torque. I've had the 2767 high torque in the past, but I always felt it was too big, heavy and awkward to use.
The flare nut wrenches are made in China, but they're ranked #3 by the Torque Test channel below Mac and Snap On. I'm sure they'll do the job when I need them, and the price is by far less than the tool trucks.
I opted for the 1/2" mid-torque. I've had the 2767 high torque in the past, but I always felt it was too big, heavy and awkward to use.
The flare nut wrenches are made in China, but they're ranked #3 by the Torque Test channel below Mac and Snap On. I'm sure they'll do the job when I need them, and the price is by far less than the tool trucks.
Attachments
With the upcoming NAPA and Home Depot Q4 deals including 6, 8, and 12 Forge batteries, I'm thinking of getting a few, but I'm unsure what I want to get. Anybody else have any similar plans but know what they want to get?
The best deal seems like the "Buy a 12.0Ah FORGE for $249 and get an 8.0Ah FORGE free"
I'm probably going to do that.
Sometimes you can buy the regular M18 batteries for $10 per amp hour. Are the Forge at $14 per amp hour 40% better? To me they seem best for people in trades using them all day long every day. I am just a DIYer and have 30-40 regular M18 that have given me very very few problems and some are 10+ years old.
Odd-job
Well-known member
I think I am going to slowly phase into Forge given I already have a fleet of 10+ HOs. I try not paying the early adopter premium generally speaking. Plus from past history certain sizes and early manufacturing runs tend to have issues with uneven cell degradation (9.0s, etc) so am waiting for feedback from fellow members.
Probably also would be good to identify tools that actually take advantage of the Forge's higher output. Only one on my radar is the high torque impact.
According to this semi objective video it was 20-37% "faster" on the high torque and new(?) circular saw.
I do wonder how much more mojo the PWR5 12.0 Forge will add to my chainsaw.
Probably also would be good to identify tools that actually take advantage of the Forge's higher output. Only one on my radar is the high torque impact.
According to this semi objective video it was 20-37% "faster" on the high torque and new(?) circular saw.
I do wonder how much more mojo the PWR5 12.0 Forge will add to my chainsaw.
Odd-job
Well-known member
Also curious how much the 15 min supercharging will degrade the Forge batteries.
I have some SK line wrenches and some craftsman raised panel line wrenches. IMO even my junky craftsman panel line wrenches can put out enough torque to tear a hard line before the jaws start to open up. I do want to see that TTC video now though. I have had situations where I can get a line wrench on and then a wrench on a union and I start to spread the jaws on the line wrench. I could see how having a beefier line wrench could be beneficial.
If you're referring to my previous post about the Milwaukee flare nut wrenches that I bought, here is the TTC video.
For the record, it didn't do as well on PF's video, which I'm also linking.
Frankly, I don't really care regardless. For my needs and frequency of use, they'll do just fine until I feel I need to upgrade.
Speaking of which, if I were to upgrade, I would just find a used set of the Snap On's.
Odd-job
Well-known member
Jeez it took someone forever to figure out how to make a dust separator into a box...
Planning to get this to stack on top of an m18 power supply that sits on top of my Flex vacuum for a semi eloquent cordless + dust separator setup.
Planning to get this to stack on top of an m18 power supply that sits on top of my Flex vacuum for a semi eloquent cordless + dust separator setup.