The Milwaukee addiction thread! :)
- Thread starter JustinsGr8
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I tested my 2454 M12 Fuel 3/8 w/ XC battery on lugs I torqued to 95 ft-lbs a week ago and it took the lug bolt out in 2 mississippis. I took out 2 bolts with equal success.
I have the big boy 2763, which is what I bought for use on my lug nuts - well actually lug bolts. I just tried my 2454 M12 fuel 3/8" impact on the lug bolts that I torqued less than a month ago to 80 ft-lbs.
No go. It wouldn't budge them.
I rechecked the tightness by hand just to make sure.
You need the 6 bay multi volt rapid charger. I noticed in the price check app at HD today it was on clearance for $100, not sure why it was on clearance, I already have it, would of bought another but it was not in stock.
Diesel_Dave
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 17, 2015
- Messages
- 81
Getting there...
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I was baffled by MikeF's results compared to mine so I performed a second test.
On another car, torqued to 95 ft-lbs a month ago, again in 2-3 mississippis each it removed 2 different lug bolts. Re-torqued them using 2 different torque wrenches to make sure my main one was accurate, took bolts out in same time. Torqued another bolt to 100 ft-lbs, out in 3 mississippis. My torque wrench only goes to 100 ft-lbs, tightened past that we'll say it was 110 ft-lbs and my 2454 removed that in 6 mississippis.
I think Mike's 2454 is defective, or his lugs are corroded/seized, or his torque wrench is inaccurate lol.
On another car, torqued to 95 ft-lbs a month ago, again in 2-3 mississippis each it removed 2 different lug bolts. Re-torqued them using 2 different torque wrenches to make sure my main one was accurate, took bolts out in same time. Torqued another bolt to 100 ft-lbs, out in 3 mississippis. My torque wrench only goes to 100 ft-lbs, tightened past that we'll say it was 110 ft-lbs and my 2454 removed that in 6 mississippis.
I think Mike's 2454 is defective, or his lugs are corroded/seized, or his torque wrench is inaccurate lol.
I have the big boy 2763, which is what I bought for use on my lug nuts - well actually lug bolts. I just tried my 2454 M12 fuel 3/8" impact on the lug bolts that I torqued less than a month ago to 80 ft-lbs.
No go. It wouldn't budge them.
I rechecked the tightness by hand just to make sure.
paulsomlo
Well-known member
You said you were using the XC batteries - can you do the same test with the non XC batteries?
I've seen it stated over and over that the batteries only effect the run time and not the performance. I don't know for sure myself though.
Frontierajl
Well-known member
I believe the 2.0 and above provide the same performance. The 1.5's are the ones that are the 'standard' performance or whatever you want to call it.
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Retested 2454 w/ 2.0 battery on a month old 95 ft-lb lug not used in previous tests, same result or maybe 1/2 sec longer, could of been variation in my mississippis lol. Re-torqued and same result. This was of course on speed 2 as speed 1 does not do 117 ft-lbs.
JettaGetUpandGo
Well-known member
Try pulling a lug off in a week or two and I guarantee it will take longer or may not even be able to break it loose.
Test #3 on a 3rd vehicle in which I haven't removed the wheels in over 2 years, 2 lugs off in 3 seconds or less each.
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Alexbn921
Well-known member
There is another part to the equation. The size of the socket makes a huge difference in the impacts ability to remove a bolt. They sell special honda crank bolt sockets that r 3x the weight of a normal one for this reason. The m12 fuel will have no problem removing a property torqued lug nut as long as you have a heavy deep impact socket. Rusted or corroded over torqued nuts are another story.
If you had to have the nut off in a hurry every time then step up to an m18 and don't worry. Other wise use the right socket and an m12.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RGNCV1U/?tag=atomicindus08-20
If you had to have the nut off in a hurry every time then step up to an m18 and don't worry. Other wise use the right socket and an m12.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RGNCV1U/?tag=atomicindus08-20
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Alexbn921
Well-known member
extension will rob a lot of power.
paulsomlo
Well-known member
That's encouraging - I just bought the 2454/M12 ratchet combo kit and I've been wondering if I should get the M18 3/8 compact fuel impact as well. I've got a IR W7150, but almost never use it, because of it's size. That 2454 is amazingly strong for it's size and weight.
Bennylava
Well-known member
Hi All - My first post here and I wanted to share a project I just completed on my Milwaukee tool chest. After lurking around here, lusting after some of the Snap-on boxes and researching the US General & Masterforce boxes, I settled on the Milwaukee. So far it works well for my needs. I wanted to add some task lighting and had some extra LED tape lights that would add minimal weight to the lid and allow a installation with no modification to the box. The tape lights are Armacost brand, both the 120 and 60 led per meter density. The latter was left over from a prior project. The transformer is concealed within the double-wall of the upper box and everything is switched from a magnetic switch you can see in the back right corner of the box. Hope you enjoy and feel free to ask any questions!
![script>](http://<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/marantzer/23897717514/in/dateposted-public/" title="IMG_3793"><img src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1478/23897717514_801611bc30_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="IMG_3793"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>)
I'm going to be making an attempt to get one of these boxes next week from my local home depot. Could you provide a link to the lighting kit you used? I may be misunderstanding you, but are you using a battery of some type to power those? If not, how did you run the cord? Also kind of difficult to see the switch. Maybe a few more pics are in order.
slodat
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I don't see the advantage of that charger. I can charge five batteries at once. I only have M18.
j p smith
Well-known member
Thanks I think I found one to order. About 22.00
Frontierajl
Well-known member
Just remember you will have to mod it slightly to fit the hammer drill.
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Robert Joe
Member
- Joined
- Sep 18, 2015
- Messages
- 6
I use it on my Miata track car torqued to 85ftlbs. It takes a couple of secs before it starts to get loose. Putting them on I still leave it on the 2 (more powerful) setting and go around in a star pattern using a quick squeeze. They are still finger loose, then I go around again with another quick squeeze. They are no longer finger loose and when I finish off with the torque wrench set at 85ftlbs, it takes just a little rotation.
That said, I decided to still pre-loosen with a lug wrench because I have Aluminium lug nuts that I want to put less stress on. I then zip them off with the M12.
The M12 saves a lot of time. I should have got one ages ago!
Robert Joe
Member
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- Sep 18, 2015
- Messages
- 6
Another thing to consider M12 or M18 for lug nuts is socket availability. It is no problem getting a 3/8 inch impact socket but if you want any of the "special protector" type sockets, they only come in 1/2 inch - which means M18.
If you dont have M12, I think you need to get some LOL. They do make a 6 bay M18, it might only charge 3 at a time though, and its not a rapid charger.
I had many M12/M18 and M12 chargers, reason I like the 6 bay rapid multi volt was then there is only 1 plug. Instead of having to monopolize an outlet or power strip. Plus the rapid charge technology which cuts down charge time by 40%. So in theory the M12/M18 station could charge your 5 packs faster even though it only has 3 M18 slots.
I had many M12/M18 and M12 chargers, reason I like the 6 bay rapid multi volt was then there is only 1 plug. Instead of having to monopolize an outlet or power strip. Plus the rapid charge technology which cuts down charge time by 40%. So in theory the M12/M18 station could charge your 5 packs faster even though it only has 3 M18 slots.
ScottsGT
Well-known member
You know, you really, really ****!! If there are more, PM me with info!
demolitionman
Well-known member
Well gang I got the Milwaukee fuel 18 kit hammer drill and 1/4 hex impact. Ended up having to take the first kit back, but the replacement was great as was HD's customer service.
Can you say Beast of a cordless tool?
Now to find the absolute strongest 3/8 adapters made.
Can you say Beast of a cordless tool?
Now to find the absolute strongest 3/8 adapters made.
The Milwaukee Shockwave hex to 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 set is only $10 at HD. Dont know how they compare in strength to anything else, but they are impact duty.
Can you say Beast of a cordless tool?
Now to find the absolute strongest 3/8 adapters made.
j p smith
Well-known member
Thanks again for the help. I will remember to do the modification
JettaGetUpandGo
Well-known member
I'd recommend them.
In the last 4-5 years I've broken a 1/2" adapter once. I think it was a fluke because I wasn't doing anything terribly stressful with it.
demolitionman
Well-known member
Thanks. I'll pick some up tonight.
Sorry the set is only sold online, I believe the store has individual pieces for 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, not sure how much over $10 buying individually will cost you.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauke...cket-Adapter-Set-3-Piece-48-32-5033/204408619
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauke...cket-Adapter-Set-3-Piece-48-32-5033/204408619
Question.... Besides the obvious, what is the difference between the Hammer Drill and the Drill Driver? I watched a review of the hammer drill and it has 3 settings, drill/screw/hammer. Why would a person ONLY buy the drill driver?
Thanks
CD
Thanks
CD
demolitionman
Well-known member
In my experience, a drill driver typically has less chuck runout than a hammer drill, so if Your using it on metal a lot it's been my experience non hammering drill drivers typically have a truer shank. Doesn't much matter on wood IMO.
Anyone else experience the same?
Ign
Well-known member
Cheaper, sometimes shorter & you just may not need the hammer mode if you already have 4 others w the feature like me.
Some say the hammer drills get a better chuck, but it's been proven on this board that's not always true. Plus all of Milwaukee's chucks ****.
...........Why would a person ONLY buy the drill driver?
Thanks
CD[/QUOTE]
Because the hammer mode ***** on a regular drill/driver compared to a rotary drill[emoji106] But why I doesnt want a hammerdrill is mostly because the size matters for me[emoji3] Compare any drill/driver with hammer function to a non hammerdrill you will see the difference! Not saying the gen2 is bad to drill concrete and stuff like that, but I already have a rotary hammer so...And I hate that dentist drilling sound[emoji375]
Thanks
CD[/QUOTE]
Because the hammer mode ***** on a regular drill/driver compared to a rotary drill[emoji106] But why I doesnt want a hammerdrill is mostly because the size matters for me[emoji3] Compare any drill/driver with hammer function to a non hammerdrill you will see the difference! Not saying the gen2 is bad to drill concrete and stuff like that, but I already have a rotary hammer so...And I hate that dentist drilling sound[emoji375]
MikeF2316
Well-known member
OK, I read all the comments about my weak tool before I went to bed last night.
So I went out and brought the tool in. It was in my garage, around the freezing point. I also brought in another 2.0 battery, as well as an XC one. I let them warm up, put them on chargers this morning before going to work.
So I just got back from some testing. Now they zip the lugs off with a delay of maybe .5 second. I tried deep and shallow sockets, XC, 2.0 freshly charged as well as the 2.0 that was on last night. It really didn't seem to make any difference.
So there's the lesson. These things have more torque at room temperature than the freezing point. It didn't seem to be hammering any harder, but obviously it was. I didn't drive that car today, and it's still around the freezing point.
FYI for anyone wanting to buy the gen 2 bare tools from HD.... The SKU for gen 1 and gen 2 drill and 3/8 impact seem to be the same. The website only shows gen 1 tools but the inventory levels reflect the amount of gen 2 stock.
Helpful if you want to combine the 150 off promo with a bare tool before it ends.
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Helpful if you want to combine the 150 off promo with a bare tool before it ends.
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
Glad to hear your 2454 isnt defective!
OK, I read all the comments about my weak tool before I went to bed last night.
So I went out and brought the tool in. It was in my garage, around the freezing point. I also brought in another 2.0 battery, as well as an XC one. I let them warm up, put them on chargers this morning before going to work.
So I just got back from some testing. Now they zip the lugs off with a delay of maybe .5 second. I tried deep and shallow sockets, XC, 2.0 freshly charged as well as the 2.0 that was on last night. It really didn't seem to make any difference.
So there's the lesson. These things have more torque at room temperature than the freezing point. It didn't seem to be hammering any harder, but obviously it was. I didn't drive that car today, and it's still around the freezing point.
Unless I need to drill small holes in concrete, the drill driver is usually smaller overall and lighter than the hammer drill.
SpannerMonkey
Well-known member
On my M18 Fuel 3/8" I see a difference between the 2 and 4 amp batteries.
The state of the threads makes a huge difference. Mine wouldn't take a bolt off. I cleaned up the threads and torqued back to same tightness and it would then take it off no problem.