TTMotorsports
Well-known member
The 2361-20 flood light. No idea what difference is to fit the 12.0 but they said they have it.
The Milwaukee addiction thread! :)
- Thread starter JustinsGr8
- Start date
Strouty
Well-known member
I need to get my act together and get my tools set to fit the 12s, I think I have four of them.
PsRumors
Well-known member
I'm looking at buying the fuel grinder. It comes with either a paddle switch or slide locking switch.
Which is recommended?
Which is recommended?
soloz2
Well-known member
Used the acme tools 15% off to nab the trays for my pwckout box since the kit did not include them. After shipping I only saved like $2, but I couldn't justify spending enough to get free shipping today.
kctyphoon
Banned
Looks like Milwaukee is FINALLY making some real NORMAL diagonal cutters.. look at the pic in the Mother’s Day email - looks like they included a picture of an Easter Egg.. lol..
They look identical to the head that Klein use’s..
These better not be the Doyle’s in HF with some fancy grips.
They look identical to the head that Klein use’s..
These better not be the Doyle’s in HF with some fancy grips.
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Strouty
Well-known member
I think that is a personal preference, I have both styles and use them for different purposes.
mobiledynamics
Well-known member
TTM. I looked at mine and remember why I skipped it. FWIW, it fits the 9 with no conversion.
The newer design elongates it but also eliminates the plastic vertical hang bar that is on the floody. I opted out as I use the vertical hanging bar all the time
The newer design elongates it but also eliminates the plastic vertical hang bar that is on the floody. I opted out as I use the vertical hanging bar all the time
DFB
Well-known member
Honestly who needs a12.0 on that floody
mobiledynamics
Well-known member
Any predictions for a new wet/dry vac. Want something new from my Yellow vac. Been eyeing the backpack really hard lately.
a52-830
Well-known member
that is a nice quality box for the price. if the packout stuff was priced along that curve, it would be a lot more popular.
I will note that this organizer uses the same bins as the packout organizers.
Anyone compared the M12 fuel hackzall to the M18 fuel hackzall? I have the M12 fuel hackzall and the M18 fuel sawzall. My friend is trying to sell me the m18 fuel hackzall for a good price, but I don't really see it having a place in my toolkit. If they m12 can't handle a task, then I would just move to the m18 fuel sawzall. Thoughts?
mobiledynamics
Well-known member
Or portaband depending on what ur using it for. For it's use, formfactor, M12 hacksaw IMO
minke
Well-known member
I'm thinking of getting an impact wrench and have never used one. The most demanding use will be the lug nuts on my truck which are spec'ed at 165 ft. lbs. I also have 5 M18s so I've already drunk the kool-aid.
Is the 450 ft. lbs. tool range where I should be?
Do I care about hog ring vs. friction ring vs. detent pin? The tool won't see a great deal of use and I won't be in a hurry.
Anything else that I should think about that I haven't recognized?
thanks,,,
Is the 450 ft. lbs. tool range where I should be?
Do I care about hog ring vs. friction ring vs. detent pin? The tool won't see a great deal of use and I won't be in a hurry.
Anything else that I should think about that I haven't recognized?
thanks,,,
kctyphoon
Banned
You should be able to just get the mid torque. My opinion, if its JUST lugs for now - and youre only buying one - I’d just go for the high torque and call it a day... youll never have a lug you cant get off.
Hog ring/friction ring are the same thing.. you want a friction ring, not the pin detent.. the pin is meant to LOCK a socket on, and youll need to push the pin down to release the sockets.. and if you ever put a chrome socket on it, you wont enjoy getting it off. Its really meant to impact sockets only that have the hole (almost all impact sockets do) for the pin.
In other words - you need a tool (anything that will fit in the hole) to remove sockets from a pin detent. Its really meant for production type work, or situations where the user cant chance a socket just falling off (say from working aloft, at heights, ect.. )
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Caparris
Well-known member
I've never understood the hate on the pin detent versions.. the ones I've used are NOT like ratchets where you have to push the button down to get sockets to release. The sockets pull off just fine as the pin (really a ball) has a spring behind it so it isn't locked into position or anything like some ratchets are.
I've always bought the friction ring versions just because everyone on here scared me away from the pin detents, but after playing with them in the store I don't really understand the hate. And I've had issues with the friction rings getting bent up on mine which caused issues with sockets getting stuck too, so neither is 100% in my book
To answer the original question--I agree, get the high torque model so you don't have to worry about it. It'll take off any lug nut you can throw at it. The mid torque would probably work too but no reason to even chance it if that's all you want it for
I've always bought the friction ring versions just because everyone on here scared me away from the pin detents, but after playing with them in the store I don't really understand the hate. And I've had issues with the friction rings getting bent up on mine which caused issues with sockets getting stuck too, so neither is 100% in my book
To answer the original question--I agree, get the high torque model so you don't have to worry about it. It'll take off any lug nut you can throw at it. The mid torque would probably work too but no reason to even chance it if that's all you want it for
I have the 2863-20, it is bit bigger than I'd like, but I never have to worry about it taking something off. Axles nuts, Control arms bolts, fan nuts, they call come out instantly. The only thing I worry about is so much torque that it will just bust off the bolt.
DFB
Well-known member
The current pin versions (Milwaukee's) seem to have been modified over time showing different part numbers on various models.
Really early ones had a very flat square cut on the end vs the more tapered rounded end they seem to have now, which is similar to the original 2655 "B" version. (ball end)
kctyphoon
Banned
A true pin detent (like the impact I just gave away), you CANNOT pull a socket off.. I think Ryobi, and maybe Ridgid advertise a pin detent - that isn't really a true pin detent. For all intents and purposes, it's just an aggressive ball retention. Their "pin" is rounded off on top so you can pull stuff off (like chrome sockets). Impact sockets are manufactured with a hole on one side to accept pin detents.
5/8 hex or, 7/16 hex to 1/2" square adapters use real pin detents. The older Milwaukee impacts have a true pin detent. If the new Milwaukee has a detent that's rounded off, or comes to a point - it's not a true pin detent. The whole point of the a real pin detent is that sockets CANT come off without a tool.
It would seem those impacts are also slightly detuned on torque specs since the square drive isnt solid compared to a friction ring.
Farmall450
Well-known member
They aren't detuned. My dad has the pin & my brother has the ring.
For some reason, the high torque default seems to be pinned in stores and online for Milwaukee and DeWalt.
AngryBeaver
Well-known member
I'll be the one to say the 450 ft lb mid torque is all you need. I have all of them from M12 to M18. the big ******* is too big 120% of the time for normal garage use. in a repair shop, working on semi's or working in plant maintenance, the big ******* is usable.
the mid tq in 3/8 or 1/2 is rated at 450 ft pounds tightening and 600 ft lbs loosening.
the first big 1/2" one I got had the pin detent. I would not recommend this. you have to use a drill bit, or screw driver to release the pin. if you are covered in grease/oil, trying to grab the socket while using a drill bit, thin punch or micro screw driver will have you cussing more often than not.
in two years of daily service truck use since I made the switch, I have not had one single issue with the friction ring.
what ever one you get.... make sure you get impact sockets, as you'll round out the drive end on chrome sockets in no time. you'll also split them like I chain smoke.
Attachments
Most people only get one because of $$$..but if Yure rich.. Then get all of them. So I would probably get the 1/2". 1400ft lb one just to cover all bases, no ifs or buts.. But I bet there will be times when cordless is not enough and have to go air power guns.. I couldn't take off front cv axle of my Toyota seinna van even with my makita 18v, 5ah battery, 750ft lb spec... I had to pull out the aircat air gun.. Came out fast.. Always good to have air power..
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
DFB
Well-known member
IIRC many "pin" models offer slightly a different RPM range in some of the modes over the comparable ring versions.
jimreed2160
Well-known member
Ditto. I have about a dozen sprinkled around my shop. I need to see stuff and drawers/cabinets hide too much.
billie
Active member
DFB
Well-known member
Now THAT'S funny
Reminds me when I had chick in my garage recently. She seen the impacts on the bench and even the heat gun and then says...
"How many drills does a guy need?"
minke
Well-known member
Not sure of what I'll do, but I thank you all for your contributions. It sounds like 1) I want a friction ring and 2) there is little opportunity for a blunder.
A long time ago I learned that if making up my mind was difficult it was likely that it didn't really matter. Now that my mind is geriatric I sometimes wonder though.
Thanks again, and I'll wait for a sale. And, yes,,, real impact sockets.
A long time ago I learned that if making up my mind was difficult it was likely that it didn't really matter. Now that my mind is geriatric I sometimes wonder though.
Thanks again, and I'll wait for a sale. And, yes,,, real impact sockets.
I too am in this boat.
I have an M18 Fuel Sawzall that I like, but I find myself wanting a Hackzall also for smaller jobs. I have a buddy with the M12 Fuel Hackzall and have used it a number of times and it always got the job done, cutting copper, PVC, rebar, and trimming trees. Only recently have I seen the M18 Hackzall in person and its considerably larger and heavier than I expected.
I find myself leaning towards picking up an M12 Fuel Hackzall from Offerup or the like, though I haven't done it yet.
jimreed2160
Well-known member
I just got the M12 Hackzall and used it only once but I am sold. It is light enough to use with one hand. I destroyed a large cardboard shipping box in no time. Looks like it is going to be a handy tool around the shop.
Caparris
Well-known member
Good deal. So yeah, sockets pull off fine then.
Right.. that's my point. These aren't "true" pin detents like people seem to be understandably against for most situations. It just a spring loaded ball that holds the socket on, it doesn't lock it into place like a true pin detent would, so it should work fine for most..
Not that long ago, I got a 1/2" mid torque pin detent model and very quickly got tired of having to put something in the hole to release the socket. I bought a friction ring anvil on eBay and haven't looked back.
The sockets on mine would definitely not just pull off, they absolutely required a tool.
To be fair, if you put the pin detent on one of the other 3 non hole sides, it would come out easily, but a bit too easily.
The sockets on mine would definitely not just pull off, they absolutely required a tool.
To be fair, if you put the pin detent on one of the other 3 non hole sides, it would come out easily, but a bit too easily.
techieman33
Well-known member
I had the same experience, and made the same swap after seeing a post on here. The only reason I bought the pin detent model was because it was on sale as a kit with a 5.0 and a charger for $170ish.
Bighead38
Well-known member
I had close up pictures of the pin detent but they aren’t on the phone. I can take more tomorrow if anyone is interested. Pin wasn’t my first choice but the Home Depot’s around here only stock pin detent models for some reason. I needed the impact for a job and couldn’t wait for delivery so I picked up what was available. Like someone else said you can just make sure you don’t line the pin up with the hole so it comes right off. Then when you want it to stay you line up the pin. I only line up the pin when I know I’m not swapping sizes or if I’m working at an odd angle and don’t want it to come off. The rest of the time I just keep the pin from engaging.
Out of curiosity how much was the other anvil and how was doing the swap?
Out of curiosity how much was the other anvil and how was doing the swap?
Bighead38
Well-known member
For those that answered me the other day I ended up getting a 2 pack of the new 3.0 batteries and the search light.
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Batteries-and-Chargers/M18-Batteries-and-Chargers/48-11-1835
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Lighting/Handheld-Lights/2354-20
The light is awesome so far. I already used it under and excavator and a Jeep. I’ll probably grab the smaller river light down the line. The only thing I don’t like is the spot for a lanyard is super narrow so it’s hard to fit anything there. I wanted a hook or carabiner but it’s too small. I’ll post a picture tomorrow of what I mean and my temporary solution.
The batteries are great. Good combination of size, weight, and runtime for the drills/impacts. They are slightly wider than other batteries so I had to bend the belt clip a little bit for them to slide in.
I still need another battery or two. I have 4 tools and one light but only have 2 5.0 batteries and 2 3.0 batteries.
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Batteries-and-Chargers/M18-Batteries-and-Chargers/48-11-1835
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Lighting/Handheld-Lights/2354-20
The light is awesome so far. I already used it under and excavator and a Jeep. I’ll probably grab the smaller river light down the line. The only thing I don’t like is the spot for a lanyard is super narrow so it’s hard to fit anything there. I wanted a hook or carabiner but it’s too small. I’ll post a picture tomorrow of what I mean and my temporary solution.
The batteries are great. Good combination of size, weight, and runtime for the drills/impacts. They are slightly wider than other batteries so I had to bend the belt clip a little bit for them to slide in.
I still need another battery or two. I have 4 tools and one light but only have 2 5.0 batteries and 2 3.0 batteries.
techieman33
Well-known member
The anvil is $26 here, may be available cheaper somewhere else. It look like I paid $22 from the same seller late last year.
The swap is pretty straight forward anyone that's mechanically inclined should be able to handle it pretty easily. Just make sure you pay attention to how everything is oriented when you take it apart. Here's a video that might be helpful.
DFB
Well-known member
For me with my 2655B ball pin anvil ALOT depends on the impact socket itself. When lined up with the hole, only a certain few impact sockets with enough wiggling an pulling can I get them to release without using something to depress the pin.
But this does not hold true for most of my impacts and more often I do find it quicker (though annoying) to grab a release tool than futzing around fighting with it. I leave a box nail in my the travel case my impacts are stored in. In the garage I have a pocket clip screwdriver handy.
My opinion...I think it was also modified so some putz couldn't get a standard designed chrome socket stuck on the anvil.
WunTon
Well-known member
So my boss had some stuff shift in transit in his van and broke the handle of his miter saw and I have been able to find the parts drawing for the saw but it does not have PN's listed for the handle. Does anyone have any idea what the PN's may be. It will be items #43 and #50 on the drawing.
Handyandy23
Well-known member
So my boss had some stuff shift in transit in his van and broke the handle of his miter saw and I have been able to find the parts drawing for the saw but it does not have PN's listed for the handle. Does anyone have any idea what the PN's may be. It will be items #43 and #50 on the drawing.
If I'm reading that drawing correctly, I think you need to order #510 on that list, Main Handle Kit. That would include both #43 and #50 (and probably screws and hardware).
They probably bundle it together in a "kit" instead of having people order multiple individual PN's.
WunTon
Well-known member
I believe you are correct! Thank you! I didn't even think to look at the rest of the list to see if there was a kit item. Now if I can manage to find it!
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Handyandy23
Well-known member
I have no Milwaukee experience, but according to people on here they are very helpful and accommodating. Might be easiest just to call them up directly and give them the PN and let them know what you need. Save time from running around trying to find it online somewhere.