The Milwaukee addiction thread! :)
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subarub4
Well-known member
So far trying to use the mid torque on some wheel bearing bolts not too happy right now I’m not sure if the torque rating goes down as the battery drops to 1 bar but it’s still not coming out.
dsilver1007
Active member
Battery charge makes a pretty big difference with impacts I believe.
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Which battery are you using?
I wouldn't expect too much from one bar, but it seems like it should be able to do it unless that's a really highly-torqued nut.
DFB
Well-known member
One bar is pretty weak for using the impact. Power really does drop off. Give it a full charge and see what happens.
Wheel bearing bolts should come out pretty easy with a Mid Torque I would think
There was one time though some 1/2" bolt nut combos beat my Mid torque. I was dissembling an old bolted up hay wagon frame. Mid just rattled away to no avail.
Was no match for the the High Torque though
Wheel bearing bolts should come out pretty easy with a Mid Torque I would think
There was one time though some 1/2" bolt nut combos beat my Mid torque. I was dissembling an old bolted up hay wagon frame. Mid just rattled away to no avail.
Was no match for the the High Torque though
danny_barkley
Well-known member
Don't know what vehicle you are working on but, I am doing a complete front suspension/bearing/hub/flange refurb on an 18 year old Land Cruiser and the Mid Tq is not straining on anything. Lots of my stuff torqued from the factory to 120-170# and that was 18 years ago. Zipping everything off. I have the 8 amp batteries. I start with the 3/8 stubby and go to the mid TQ if need be. I wouldn't try to do anything at 1 bar though.
subarub4
Well-known member
Still never got it to remove the bolt fresh off the charger I ended up using a breaker bar on it kinda disappointed since everybody raves over it so much. I’m using the m18 XC battery.
Looks like the bolts had some type of lock tite on them too
Looks like the bolts had some type of lock tite on them too
subarub4
Well-known member
One bar is pretty weak for using the impact. Power really does drop off. Give it a full charge and see what happens.
Wheel bearing bolts should come out pretty easy with a Mid Torque I would think
There was one time though some 1/2" bolt nut combos beat my Mid torque. I was dissembling an old bolted up hay wagon frame. Mid just rattled away to no avail.
Was no match for the the High Torque though
That’s what happened to me the mid torque just ran without moving at all the fact that I got it off with a breaker bar and body weight kinda makes me wonder if this thing is really 600 ft.lbs
Alchase
Well-known member
I keep hoping Milwaukee will come out with a M12 Fuel, 4" circular saw.
Best evidence of tool dropoff when battery goes to 1 bar is the leaf blower, its so much you can't help but notice.
bcradio
Well-known member
What's wrong with the 5-inch?
DFB
Well-known member
Well there's always that one
Fortunately you were able to get a breaker bar on it. On a lot of jobs using long leverage often can easily do it over impacting. Though impacting often best if anything has a tendency to rotate on you while you are trying to remove it
Simply put "Locktite" and depending on the formula strength can be a *****. We recently did brake rotor bolts on a motorcycle wheel that were locktighted sealed in there, The only way we freed them without destroying the bolt heads (as these were countersunk internal hex) was to use heat and plenty of it to soften up the threadlocker compound.
subarub4
Well-known member
Well there's always that one
Fortunately you were able to get a breaker bar on it. On a lot of jobs using long leverage often can easily do it over impacting. Though impacting often best if anything has a tendency to rotate on you while you are trying to remove it
Simply put "Locktite" and depending on the formula strength can be a *****. We recently did brake rotor bolts on a motorcycle wheel that were locktighted sealed in there, The only way we freed them without destroying the bolt heads (as these were countersunk internal hex) was to use heat and plenty of it to soften up the threadlocker compound.
Yeah I was in HD yesterday i was pissed I didn’t pick up a torch I did get all 4 bolts off now it’s trying to get the damn hub out.. Have to run to HD again to get some long bolts to push the hub out from the wheel studs.
Bighead38
Well-known member
Well there's always that one
Fortunately you were able to get a breaker bar on it. On a lot of jobs using long leverage often can easily do it over impacting. Though impacting often best if anything has a tendency to rotate on you while you are trying to remove it
Simply put "Locktite" and depending on the formula strength can be a *****. We recently did brake rotor bolts on a motorcycle wheel that were locktighted sealed in there, The only way we freed them without destroying the bolt heads (as these were countersunk internal hex) was to use heat and plenty of it to soften up the threadlocker compound.
This man right here knows what’s up. There are some times I look at a bolt and know the mid torque won’t touch it. So I break out the pb blaster, heat, and a breaker bar. Sometimes it’s just heat and the mid torque. Sometimes it’s a combination of everything. The breaker bar provides a constant action and if your a bigger guy you can put a lot of constant force on it. The quick impacts just aren’t enough to break it free a lot of times.
MikeF2316
Well-known member
+1 I have the 5 1/4, it's a great little saw. You just need to use the XC batteries with it
subarub4
Well-known member
Speaking of quick impacts I had the 1/2” brushed one before I think it’s like 450ft.lbs Maybe it’s just me but it felt like the impacts are a bit stronger.. the new mid torque reminds me of the Milwaukee hammer drill I had before.
I used pb blaster on it and all it was no go and a high torque would not fit in that area at all.
Bighead38
Well-known member
Sure you had it in the right mode? That’s the only time mine didn’t feel right.
subarub4
Well-known member
davethorik
Well-known member
Thinking about picking up the m18 string trimmer. I just moved into a house after apartment dwelling for many years and realized i don't have any lawncare equipment. Hd has the trimmer, 9ah battery and rapid charger for $269.99 but i have to have it delivered to store. Nbd, lawn is mowed but will look like **** a few days lol
I have been doing reading on the web and it seems to get good reviews. Yay or nay?
I have been doing reading on the web and it seems to get good reviews. Yay or nay?
DerekV
Well-known member
davethorik
Well-known member
Thank you Derek. I think im gonna pull the trigger. I need a rapid charger anyway, i have a ho xc8.0 for my fuel circ saw and it takes very long to charge on the std. charger. This will fit in well with my collection, oh well didnt get a free blower or anything.
I compared this to an echo gas trimmer also for $200, both got real good reviews. This a bit more w/ rapid charger and 9.0 batt. I'd have to buy a gas container, gas, and 2 stroke mix for a gas trimmer. And string for either.
I compared this to an echo gas trimmer also for $200, both got real good reviews. This a bit more w/ rapid charger and 9.0 batt. I'd have to buy a gas container, gas, and 2 stroke mix for a gas trimmer. And string for either.
I have the trimmer as well, it has decent power and they say 1 hour run time on 9ah batt. I like that it has different attachments like some gas models. I got the edger too, never doing that by hand again. They also make an indexing hedge trimmer and pole saw
I have almost all the attachments for the string trimmer and I love it. I don't have the hedge trimmer since I had the older dedicated hedge trimmer already. I actually really like my dedicated hedge trimmer unit quite a bit as well, used it this weekend.
Finally got tired of the chuck on my 2nd gen Fuel. Installed the upgrade chuck today. Man what a difference, feels like a whole new drill now. Can't believe I didn't do this sooner. ***** that I even had to this. I've never had to replace a chuck on any of my prev drills.
Attachments
DerekV
Well-known member
lafester
Well-known member
I ordered my first round of M12 tools to start replacing my Nextec stuff.
I went with the Fuel impact and drill set with the free ratchet from HD.
I found a refurbished caulk gun at CPO for $85 so that is coming as well.
Looking to add the staple gun, rotary tool and possibly the cutoff tool.
Not positive yet, still looking at reviews and such.
Over time I will probably snag most of them as they go on sale or pop up on FB.
I went with DeWalt for the big tools but they have nothing to compare to the M12 line.
I will have a Yellow shelf and a Red shelf and hopefully they will get along.
I went with the Fuel impact and drill set with the free ratchet from HD.
I found a refurbished caulk gun at CPO for $85 so that is coming as well.
Looking to add the staple gun, rotary tool and possibly the cutoff tool.
Not positive yet, still looking at reviews and such.
Over time I will probably snag most of them as they go on sale or pop up on FB.
I went with DeWalt for the big tools but they have nothing to compare to the M12 line.
I will have a Yellow shelf and a Red shelf and hopefully they will get along.
MikeF2316
Well-known member
I replaced the chuck on my corded Craftsman drill many years ago because (as) it wouldn't grip drills properly - they were always spinning in the chuck. And I've replaced the wobbly chuck in my Chinese drill press, with a $5 garage sale find. Wobble went from .010" to less than .001", it was a great improvement, and like you, I didn't understand why I didn't do it sooner!
My Milwaukee drills are, thankfully, free of wobble.
Is that screw left or right hand thread?
starquestMM
Well-known member
Thats the actual milwaukee one correct? Can you get it outside of a warrantee work?
ddurrett896
Well-known member
Just got a m18 15 gauge nailer (2743-20). Expensive, but man it's so nice not dragging a hose around the house the couple times a year I need one.
I see. Yeah this is the first time for me. My chuck didn't have the weeble wobbles. I replaced it cause/as (
) the locking mechanism was messed up & the chuck would slip when using drill bits close to 1/2" also. I have a drill bit set with the 3 flats on them so that pretty much took care of the slipping issue but the locking part would act up every once in a while.The screw is left hand & the chuck itself is right hand.
Yeah. I got it from a replacement parts seller on ebay. I didn't want to spend more for the Rohm.
kppolich
Well-known member
Milwaukee Resident, Milwaukee now replacing Dewalt in my house.
Question:
I want to get the Large Packout. Can anyone tell me how much space is left from the bottom of the storage tray when installed to the bottom of the case inside?
I'd like to do 2 layers of tools in Kaizen, but I'm not sure if there is enough room to have 2 layers of tools and keep the storage tray.
I'd like the top of the box to have 2 storage trays.
Middle Layer would have Hammer Drill/Impact and 2 bit cases
Bottom layer would have charger and Hackzall.
If there isn't enough room, I'd likely go the the rolling packout and do 3 layers of tools with liftout layers.
Thanks!
Question:
I want to get the Large Packout. Can anyone tell me how much space is left from the bottom of the storage tray when installed to the bottom of the case inside?
I'd like to do 2 layers of tools in Kaizen, but I'm not sure if there is enough room to have 2 layers of tools and keep the storage tray.
I'd like the top of the box to have 2 storage trays.
Middle Layer would have Hammer Drill/Impact and 2 bit cases
Bottom layer would have charger and Hackzall.
If there isn't enough room, I'd likely go the the rolling packout and do 3 layers of tools with liftout layers.
Thanks!
So yesterday I had to drill out a bolt on a mazda 5. The pinch bolt for the strut to knuckle connection. All I have is the old makita 12v max (not cxt) drill. It seemed to have enough power (it did get warm) but I went through both batteries and had to borrow a coworkers drill to finish
would a M12 fuel drill with larger XC batt be good for drilling out the occasional bolt or should I bump up to the M18 fuel?
would a M12 fuel drill with larger XC batt be good for drilling out the occasional bolt or should I bump up to the M18 fuel?
DFB
Well-known member
Ya I have the angled 16 for years now...great having it. I use it more than I ever imagined especially to quick tack stuff in place before other nailing or screws, getting something up and level I work by myself alot so makes things nice
In fact it did that just yesterday making up some raised bed frames for the garden. Afterwards I did drag my pancake compressor outside the garage to the nearest exterior outlet and then ran 100ft of hose to shoot the galvi framing nails to secure everything after it it was assembled and squared up using the cordless first
Let me tell hauling all that pneumatic stuff out SUCKED...its so old school BS these days
I always have laugh SMH on some of the treads when these people go ooooh yaaa oh my 20 year old corded or air tool is better...
mostly because they don't own or use any of this
Cannot wait for the cordless framing gun to be available and on sale
I bitched to myself today about just that... I said out loud to myself after setting up all that stuff I'd pay $500 for that tool right now.
Hopefully its a lot less than that
DerekV
Well-known member
I almost bought one of the nailers, but just could not justify the cost for something I only have a few tasks for. If I already had an 18v battery and charger I would have grabbed one though
I also wish milwaukee sold a tracksaw in the U.S. I feel so dirty looking at other brands
I also wish milwaukee sold a tracksaw in the U.S. I feel so dirty looking at other brands
subarub4
Well-known member
I came so close to getting the large pack out I’m going to need to keep all the tools in one place.
techieman33
Well-known member
According to this video NPS2020 is postponed indefinitely. Sounds like new tools will still be launching, we just won't get it all at once.
nitroracer20
Well-known member
My 2 x milwaukee m18 1/4” impact drivers keep having what i believe to be circuitry issues
Intermittently, They Will still impact, but spin “freely” when i let go of trigger. To reverse direction, i need to remove the battery, reverse the switch, and reinsert the battery.
Disappointed - i use them pretty hard for framing/deck work, but nothing i feel is excessive.
Multiple different batteries - same issue
Are the fuel models better? Anyone had same problems. Ill upload model number when i get to garage later
Intermittently, They Will still impact, but spin “freely” when i let go of trigger. To reverse direction, i need to remove the battery, reverse the switch, and reinsert the battery.
Disappointed - i use them pretty hard for framing/deck work, but nothing i feel is excessive.
Multiple different batteries - same issue
Are the fuel models better? Anyone had same problems. Ill upload model number when i get to garage later
DFB
Well-known member
Never heard of that particular issue before..
So are you saying that even after you release the trigger the motor keeps running and driver tip keeps turning?
nitroracer20
Well-known member
Not quite.
It will freewheel to a stop - and not immediately stop like a traditional impact driver. The LED illumination light stays lit up until you disconnect the battery. And it emits a low volume, but high pitched whine until battery is disconnected .
It will freewheel to a stop - and not immediately stop like a traditional impact driver. The LED illumination light stays lit up until you disconnect the battery. And it emits a low volume, but high pitched whine until battery is disconnected .