The most rounded bolt ever.

[kunkernator]

I am refurbishing a YZ 125 engine. I already split the case, inspected the insides, and sealed the case back up. Then i went to take out the drain plug......

This bolt was already rounded, so i hammered a socket on, and started heaving. It gave way, but to my surprise, not the threads, but the head rounded more! And here comes a 2 hour soak in PB Blaster..... Gripping it with my Knipex, i pulled hard. The bolt was now shredded by the plier's jaws. Now to bring out the big guns! I hammer an Irwin bolt grip socket on, and heated the thing with a propane torch. What do you know.... Rounded again!

The problem is not that i am not getting a good enough grip, but that the bolt is on there so damn tight! Or corroded or something. Any ideas?

 

[Duct Tape Man]

Take a small grinder and cut a slot like a screwdriver in it, then use a small impact wrench with a screwdriver-bit socket on there, hammer the sucker out.

 

[NHBandit]

A small pipewrench. The harder you pull, the more it bites into the bolt. If that dosn't work make a small cut in the side of the washer part below where it's rounded and use a dull chisel and a hammer to try to turn it. If you do that be VERY careful not to slip and gouge the Aluminum or you will have a leak when you reassemble it. I think it's beyond turning it with a screwdriver, even an impact.

 

[t100]

weld a nut on it.

 

[NHBandit]

weld a nut on it.

Yeah or weld a nut on it. That almost always works IF he's got a welder. I was assuming basic hand tools.

 

[Duct Tape Man]

Oh, and get a replacement bolt to put on there, so this doesn't happen again.

 

[ganymede]

Surprised you went for the knipex instead of Vise Grips.
I know the knipex are good but they still don't actually lock.

 

[Zeroek]

air hammer

 

[The Ratchet Man]

Weld a nut on there. If you don't have a welder then grind 2 wide flat spots parallel to each other and make sure they are also square to each other. One of the problems is that the head is now becoming tapered. Once you have your 2 sides ground in and squared up, take a pipe wrench and tighten it by hand as much as possible. Then take your knipex and tighten the wrench some more. Now give the pipe wrench a good, solid whack with a hammer. The sudden impact should help to free it. The key is having a solid grip on the bolt when you hit it.

 

[A_Pmech]

A small pipewrench.

Gripping the OD of the drain bolt flange.

 

[tymbo]

I think we're gonna have to blast!

 

[Lotek]

Gripping the OD of the drain bolt flange.

This, it's all about leverage. The lubie had a stripped drain plug on a Cruz with the stupid 10mm head, says torque to 14nm right on the pan but the previous gorilla had gotten it Gudentight. They had already rounded the head with vice rips when I got there, I grabbed the flange with knipex pliers and it came right off.

 

[Davefr]

Gripping the OD of the drain bolt flange.

I agree. Your best bet it to grip the O.D. of the flange but a pipe wrench might be too sloppy.

I'd try one of these. Get a real good bite and give it a good whack:

 

[Fordman7795]

I agree. Your best bet it to grip the O.D. of the flange but a pipe wrench might be too sloppy.

I'd try one of these. Get a real good bite and give it a good whack:

Regular curved jaw vise grips would work better than those

 

[Spudland_Dave]

Perfect application for SnapOn Plier Wrenches (PWZ0)...harder you torque it, harder it holds on..

 

['71 VW 1302]

Anybody have luck with this kind of rounded bolt remover?

Paul

 

[TwoInch]

i am certain the knipex actually bite harder, and the teeth bite deeper than with any vicegrips.

i say a 12" pair of gators or cobras on the outer flange would do it. the knipex actually do bite harder and "lock" as long as you are using them in the right direction. pushing down on the back handle. it that just wont do it, find a welder and do it that way.

 

[TwoInch]

Anybody have luck with this kind of rounded bolt remover?

Paul

he already tried those.

 

[TwoInch]

cutting a notch and using a hand impact and a hammer very well might do it also. i never thought of using a hand impact with those irwin bolt outs, that may be a winner also.

 

[Erampu]

Is it at all possible it's a left handed thread?

 

[bgarrett]

drilling a hole thru the old bolt can relieve the pressure on the threads

 

[ilovevocs]

Is it at all possible it's a left handed thread?

Not on that model.

 

['71 VW 1302]

he already tried those.

Ooops, you're correct...I need to read more carefully.

OTOH, has anyone ever had success with one of those?

Paul

 

[back2class]

You have some good advice. It will NEVER come out using that stripped little nub, Just not enough leverage available. The soft steel will just strip and strip. You can maybe.....just maybe weld on a nut. But the flange is where you need to attack. I agree...knipex would be my first choice and try on the flange. Second choice would be a cold chisel hitting the flange on an angle so it cuts/imbeds itself in the flange and also hammers it hard in the loosen direction at the same time. About 40deg angle to it I guess. I give 50/50 with the knipex doing the job...about 90% the chisel. Guess a air chisel would work well too and would be my 3rd choice. But don't bother with a channelock..that will not be the same...completely different tool in this situation. This is where good tools matter..good sharp chisels in different sizes and a quality knipex.. There are more options....but I would be surprised if you followed my advice and it did not come off. PS the fine tooth knipex work better for this. And a pipe wrench would maybe work....but the slip would make it slide off as gripping on the edge would not let the teeth sit square...more like a wedge,,,,and it would cam off.

 

[Davefr]

drilling a hole thru the old bolt can relieve the pressure on the threads

... along with sending metal fragments right into the crankcase!!!

 

[Davefr]

i am certain the knipex actually bite harder, and the teeth bite deeper than with any vicegrips.

Maybe, but he needs to bite into that flange, lock and then whack vs. relying on hand pressure from slip joint pliers.

That why I think some form of curved jaw vise grips or actual locking pliers will work best.

 

[rockwithjason]

Have you put any heat on it? I would try the heat it up and put wax on it trick. Its worth a shot

 

[ganymede]

i am certain the knipex actually bite harder, and the teeth bite deeper than with any vicegrips....

Didn't know that. I may have to go out and get a pair!

 

[TwoInch]

Maybe, but he needs to bite into that flange, lock and then whack vs. relying on hand pressure from slip joint pliers.

That why I think some form of curved jaw vise grips or actual locking pliers will work best.

have you ever used the knipex WP style pliers?

please watch this short video

i dont care how tight you put your vicegrips, they slip at much lower pressure than what ive experienced with sharp toothed knipex pliers.

i love channellock pliers, but they do not come close to holding power. the tooth design on the knipex are just perfect, little chisel points that just dig in hard.

 

[zkling]

Ouch.
My personal methods.

1.) Weld nut on, use standard wrench/socket. Weld a nut so the ID of the nut (thread minor dia) is the same as the OD of the rounded stud. As AP said, larger dia--> more torque to turn it.

2.) Channellock 410. "Nut buster" or pipe wrench if welder is not available (option 1)
3.) Off to the milling machine.

That SOB is going to come out one way or the other.

 

[CNGsaves]

First, shoot that gap with penetrating oil or product of your choice. Let it sit over night, then apply some more the next day.

[ IF . . . no welder available ] . . . I'd grind / file flat spots on both sides. Then apply lots of heat ONLY to the surrounding metal and get it nice and toasty. Carefully use a piece of ice to cool just the plug. Then put ViceGrips on there and give it whacks with hammer. This will likely bust it free and not risk tearing anything up.

 

[Zeke]

The benefit to welding is the heat applied. You can wrench the bolt as soon as you lay down the gun. I might preheat the case a little beforehand but not enough to carbon the oil.

 

[General Geoff]

Surprised you went for the knipex instead of Vise Grips.
I know the knipex are good but they still don't actually lock.

The knipex pliers grip tighter as you pull harder, so they don't really need to lock. Mine have worked on stuck fasteners that even super-tight vice-grips just rounded off.

 

[BillK]

I second the welded nut if you have a welder. The combination of the heat and the fact that you get a good surface for a wrench or socket usually does the trick.

 

[LX-Markham]

another vote for welding on a nut.
find somebody with a welder.

 

[GTA Matt]

If no welder, drill the head of the bolt off, then a small pilot and an easy out should easily extract the threaded portion.

 

[Viz]

Won't heating it up expand it and make it tighter?

Regardless, I've had good success with CRC Freeze Off in conjunction with a good gripping tool. Welding on a nut was good advise. Freezing it (shrinking it) can work. You might need a combination of options.

Viz

 

[GTA Matt]

I NEVER weld a nut on if I can help it. I will however weld a WRENCH on it. You can weld the inside of the chosen box size a lot easier than scabbing on a nut [actually a nut is kinda silly, you weld a BOLT to it so you have a handle] and a wrench is pretty cheap, and it is DAMN well coming off.

Or;
Have you considered just grinding it flat and installing [what used to be called] a transmission pan retrofit drain plug?

so...weld a WRENCH or weld a BOLT do not weld a nut unless clearance is a problem.

Having welded hundreds of nuts onto various stripped out fasteners, I'll tell you it is very easy and effective. In this case I would use a large nut with the center about the same size as the rounded off hex and simply fill the center up with weld, let it cool, and keep all my wrenches in one piece.

 

[DenisG]

You have some good advice. It will NEVER come out using that stripped little nub, Just not enough leverage available. The soft steel will just strip and strip. You can maybe.....just maybe weld on a nut. But the flange is where you need to attack. I agree...knipex would be my first choice and try on the flange. Second choice would be a cold chisel hitting the flange on an angle so it cuts/imbeds itself in the flange and also hammers it hard in the loosen direction at the same time. About 40deg angle to it I guess. I give 50/50 with the knipex doing the job...about 90% the chisel. Guess a air chisel would work well too and would be my 3rd choice. But don't bother with a channelock..that will not be the same...completely different tool in this situation. This is where good tools matter..good sharp chisels in different sizes and a quality knipex.. There are more options....but I would be surprised if you followed my advice and it did not come off. PS the fine tooth knipex work better for this. And a pipe wrench would maybe work....but the slip would make it slide off as gripping on the edge would not let the teeth sit square...more like a wedge,,,,and it would cam off.

+1

***** punch or cold chisel along a tangent to the flange circle (for the mathematically-inclined)

 

[Skin]

Ooops, you're correct...I need to read more carefully.

OTOH, has anyone ever had success with one of those?

Paul

Yes the twist sockets work very well, essentially a necessity for exhaust work in areas where rust is common. If its spinning its not small enough.

Impact + twist socket of the correct size + heating the area around where the bolt is installed works 99% of the time. Half the problem is most people don't have real twist sockets, just those crummy sears bolt out kits.