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The repurposing thread

falcongarage

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Aug 2, 2012
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These job boxes were a special buy at HD recently and I thought it would be just right to re-purpose into a welding cart/station. This is a bit of an experiment but it should be a pretty budget friendly build.



I added a set of heavy duty castors I had on hand.



So the plan is to cut open the front to recess my Mig and add a 3/8" x 30" x 54" table surface spaced 3" off the top of the box. The top will have 96 .626" holes on a 4" grid and should work well with the "Strong Hand" brand of clamps. It will end up with a 3" overhang all around as the box is 24" x 48".

I have ordered the top from my local laser cutter and it should be ready next week. I am hopeful that the top will be pretty flat when delivered...

This is what it should look like roughly when complete.




I will fabricate a tank shelf once I have the top on. Also, I am going to try and keep the lid/top operable so I can store wire and other supplies in the box.



Picked up the 3/8" thick laser cut top for the welding station project. Turned out quite nice - only some minor tweaking will be required to get it dead flat.

 
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Fyrme

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Looks like you're well on your way with that table. May I suggest you abandon the idea of keeping the top as a functional lid for storage access. Beside the fact that it's going to be heavy as hell, It's guaranteed that when you need what's inside it, you will have a welding project in progress.
 

jrod60

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big ol' box

So the welding machine is on a drawer or something, right? I think Fyrme might be right; drawers on the sides would let you get to stuff mid-project better than flopping up the lid. I like the idea of using a big Jobox like this though.
 

falcongarage

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Looks like you're well on your way with that table. May I suggest you abandon the idea of keeping the top as a functional lid for storage access. Beside the fact that it's going to be heavy as hell, It's guaranteed that when you need what's inside it, you will have a welding project in progress.


Yes...after feeling the weight wanting to tip the box over when the lid is all the way up I do not think a working lid is going to be practical.

Got the top bolted on so it is now usable. I will cut the side open for the welder but I think I will also allow for a hinged door for access to storage.





 

Fyrme

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Now, here's an idea. Put heavy duty rear hatch shocks on the lid from say a Tahoe, suburban, etc. and put a 45-50* stop on the lid. Mount your welder on the back of the box and you can tilt your CLAMPED down project up for a different welding angle. Although, flat welds tend to be easier than vertical welds.
 

mdbeck1

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Now, here's an idea. Put heavy duty rear hatch shocks on the lid from say a Tahoe, suburban, etc. and put a 45-50* stop on the lid. Mount your welder on the back of the box and you can tilt your CLAMPED down project up for a different welding angle. Although, flat welds tend to be easier than vertical welds.

Good idea but the shocks are set up to support a specific weight. Probably be better to put a couple rods with a bolt lockdown to clamp them in position.
 

Fyrme

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Good idea but the shocks are set up to support a specific weight. Probably be better to put a couple rods with a bolt lockdown to clamp them in position.



Yes, I was suggesting them more for opening assistance than holding. I'd for sure have a means of mechanical holding supports.
 

Fyrme

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I've just gotten started on this one, so no real good progress pics yet, but here is a repurpose and start of a fire resistant storage cabinet......3046e9a5f2011a54e0f740b4f7bafff7.jpg1738877965a4bb76ebcd292439aa9906.jpgf104279e992a7143c4d596aef9e4c56a.jpg

It will be lined in 2layers of 5/8" type X drywall as well as 3-1/2" rock wool. The interior should be able to handle a 600-800* outside environment for a hour or less when it's done.
 

mdbeck1

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...It will be lined in 2layers of 5/8" type X drywall as well as 3-1/2" rock wool. The interior should be able to handle a 600-800* outside environment for a hour or less when it's done.

When I bought my gunsafe they told me that it had a steel outer layer and TWO layers of 3/4 Fire Code Sheetrock... Then on the inside they add a layer of particleboard and carpet.

Let's see... ah.hah.... link to their site... http://www.bearsafes.net/fire-protection/ So yeah... you should get 600°-800°.
 

WoodsTruck

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Picked up the 3/8" thick laser cut top for the welding station project. Turned out quite nice - only some minor tweaking will be required to get it dead flat.

http://s250.photobucket.com/user/red94civic/media/job box lid_zpstozseiq4.jpg.html

I would suggest mounting a power strip to the front of your job box table with a heavy cord to the wall. This should minimize trip hazards if you need to run a grinder or anything else at your table.

Looks awesome by the way.
 

falcongarage

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I would suggest mounting a power strip to the front of your job box table with a heavy cord to the wall. This should minimize trip hazards if you need to run a grinder or anything else at your table.

Looks awesome by the way.

Thanks - That is a good idea/
 

falcongarage

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I messed around with the top a little and it is now nice and flat.





Next up is cutting into the side for the welder. I found a middle tool box at HD that I might buy and recess into the box as well.
 

pennsylvaniaboy

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What about adding a air hose real inside and outlets etc.. Id love to have air right at a fab station, without it getting welding spalls constantly dropped on it.
 

falcongarage

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Looking good. How did you go about getting it flat?

It had a slight U to it when I got it from the laser cutter - really minor like just over 1/16" over 52". I bolted one side down first then the other and shimmed to center until it was how you see it. It did not require much to get it really good.
 

happymachinist

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Picked up an old electrical cabinet that was being tossed out. Used some old closet doors (3/4" plywood painted eggshell) from a remodel at the house to make some shelves. Cabinet is 12 GA steel. Freeninintynine save the screws and electricity to cut the wood.

uploadfromtaptalk1470692578686.jpguploadfromtaptalk1470692590042.jpguploadfromtaptalk1470692598775.jpg

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 

metalhead212121

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It had a slight U to it when I got it from the laser cutter - really minor like just over 1/16" over 52". I bolted one side down first then the other and shimmed to center until it was how you see it. It did not require much to get it really good.

Funny you should mention this.... I'm building something VERY SIMILAR.

I have a "U" bend as well. :( My steel plate is 1/2 thick (6' by 3') and it is my "guess" is that IF I have one side bolted down the other side will "stick up" 1/2." Its TOO LATE to flip it over (long story). My idea was/is to use the biggest bolts like you used and "pull" the plate straight. I really want a 100% smooth surface... I don't want bolt heads sticking up. The more I think about it the more I think I'm setting myself up for the bolt heads themselves to be LAUNCHED (SOONER OR LATER) TO KINGDOM COME. :( Any ideas??
 
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BonzoHansen

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Is using an old ford king pin as a punch too simplistic for this thread?

Or using the crash bar tube out of th e door of a 4th gen camaro as an extension/persuader? Its so perfect GM must have planned it's secondary use. They even put a small hole in one end to hang it on the wall.
 

rodsnratfinks

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Picked up an old electrical cabinet that was being tossed out. Used some old closet doors (3/4" plywood painted eggshell) from a remodel at the house to make some shelves. Cabinet is 12 GA steel. Freeninintynine save the screws and electricity to cut the wood.

uploadfromtaptalk1470692578686.jpguploadfromtaptalk1470692590042.jpguploadfromtaptalk1470692598775.jpg

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
Awesome. The jealousy is real.
 

falcongarage

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Funny you should mention this.... I'm building something VERY SIMILAR.

I have a "U" bend as well. :( My steel plate is 1/2 thick (6' by 3') and it is my "guess" is that IF I have one side bolted down the other side will "stick up" 1/2." Its TOO LATE to flip it over (long story). My idea was/is to use the biggest bolts like you used and "pull" the plate straight. I really want a 100% smooth surface... I don't want bolt heads sticking up. The more I think about it the more I think I'm setting myself up for the bolt heads themselves to be LAUNCHED (SOONER OR LATER) TO KINGDOM COME. :( Any ideas??

I think for even one 1/2" bolt to "let go" of it's head you would need SIGNIFICANT pressure - like exponentially more than your warped top could ever produce.
 

m.breen

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Re: Repurposing old fire hose?

Anybody got ideas on what to do with an unused 20 year old fire hose. If I cut it up, will it be a health issue with the fire retard fabric? Oh ****...sorry, this should have been a new thread.
 
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Buckgnarly

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Re: Repurposing old fire hose?

Anybody got ideas on what to do with an unused 20 year old fire hose. If I cut it up, will it be a health issue with the fire retard fabric?

Some people use them for a recovery strap, I guess they have some stretch that helps when pulling out stuck vehicles.
 

12husky

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Re: Repurposing old fire hose?

Anybody got ideas on what to do with an unused 20 year old fire hose. If I cut it up, will it be a health issue with the fire retard fabric?



If it holds air pressure, they can be handy as a clamp for irregular shapes


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MScott

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Re: Repurposing old fire hose?

Anybody got ideas on what to do with an unused 20 year old fire hose. If I cut it up, will it be a health issue with the fire retard fabric?

I used some to strap plastic barrels (floats) to the bottom of a dock.
 

WoodsTruck

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Re: Repurposing old fire hose?

Anybody got ideas on what to do with an unused 20 year old fire hose. If I cut it up, will it be a health issue with the fire retard fabric? Oh ****...sorry, this should have been a new thread.

Chainsaw and hedge trimmer scabbard for me. They also work good to act as a bumper between a pickup bed and a cross bed tool box. Cut 2 pieces the width of the tool box and lay down before bolting the box to the bed.
 

EdT

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Buddy of mine used some for dock bumpers. Put some foam inside and fastened to the sides of the dock.
 

lakeroadster

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Mirror.. Mirror

I salvaged the mount from an abandoned Dish TV to make a bracket to hold a mirror for my 2 post lift. Makes getting the vehicle centered a piece of cake...

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MemphisR32

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I broke my ball peen hammer try to get a rotor off. Realizing I didnt have my small sledge ended up using a trailer hitch inset and ball to break it free. Worked better than the hammer or the sledge. Go figure.
 

-Brent-

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I'm all about repurposing.

20161105_171611.jpg

This bench is made from some pallet shelving I got for $20.

20161106_213647.jpg

And some uni-strut for pry bar storage.

IMG_20161106_154953.jpg

These are Model A Ford door handles I just put on my refurbished cart/cabinet.
 
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-Brent-

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I added a u-bolt from a muffler clamp for a hammer loop. Here is what it looks like now, pretty much.

 
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