The roughest Craftsman 150 drill press?

[MikeyMakey]

I bought a Craftsman 150 drill press at an online auction. I won it for $27 and happily drove the 45 minutes away to pick it up, only to find that the auction photos did not really tell the condition. When I arrived, I found that it had been stored since time immemorial in an open barn on that white powdery compacted gravel type floor. It's filthy and covered in rust. I loaded it up and brought it home, with my excitement draining away. I had assumed I'd want to do some cleanup and refurbishing, but this was a bit extreme. When my teenage son saw it, he said, "Why did you buy it?"

After exploring it further at home, the bad news is that the quill is siezed and won't travel up and down (no, it's not locked). The lock handle to move the head up and down is also stuck. And the chuck itself is seized. The good news - it seems to be 100% complete, including chuck key. The drill and pulleys turn. The depth stop works (not that you can lower the quill). The table unlocks and moves fairly easily. And, surprise, surprise, the motor works, although the power cord needs replaced at minimum because the insulation is cracked in several places.

I've eventually come back around from excitement in buying a cool old drill press, to disappointment that it's essentially unusable without significant work, and now back around to excitement again at the prospect of refurbishing it. It'll be quite a transformation if I can get the siezed parts freed up and proceed with a full tear down, cleanup, and repaint.

BTW it's a '64-'66 model, from what I've read in these forums.

Anyway, this got me wondering what's the roughest shape that you've seen in a vintage tool or drill press that was able to be rescued and restored?

(Forgive my messy garage in the pics...)

 

[FrankLee]

You have your work cut out for you, but it's very do-able and rewarding.

Below are a couple of my ugly ducklings.

DP#3 was my first complete refurb.


DP#6. IMO, overhauling a poorly repainted machine is the worst.

 

[FrankLee]

DP#112 was the most fubar machine I ever bought that was NOT a refurb. There were very few salvageable parts, but I still came out ahead. I'm still using that table as part of a grinder stand.

​

 

[Davefr]

Anyway, this got me wondering what's the roughest shape that you've seen in a vintage tool or drill press that was able to be rescued and restored?

(Forgive my messy garage in the pics...)

I agree with Frank. IMHO, you did very well. I'd take one like that any day over a unit with missing parts, jury rigged mods, big arc of shame, layers of non OEM paint, etc, etc. Your restoration is mostly just labor. Just work on one section at a time. It's really fun to bring these old machines back to life.

My latest Delta before and after.

 

[FrankLee]

I'd take one like that any day over a unit with missing parts, jury rigged mods, big arc of shame, layers of non OEM paint, etc, etc. Your restoration is mostly just labor. Just work on one section at a time.

This ^...

It's really fun to bring these old machines back to life.

and especially this ^.

 

[RTM]

Anyway, this got me wondering what's the roughest shape that you've seen in a vintage tool or drill press that was able to be rescued and restored?

I live very close to the great Pacific rusty fog generator, right next to agricultural areas. Yours is almost pristine by some of what I’ve seen, but not bought. I have no idea if any were refurbed, but I’ve seen a few that supposedly got sent to metal salvage. Just lumps of rust where fasteners should be, pitted columns, very heartbreaking.

 

[MikeyMakey]

You have your work cut out for you, but it's very do-able and rewarding.

Below are a couple of my ugly ducklings.

DP#3 was my first complete refurb.


DP#6. IMO, overhauling a poorly repainted machine is the worst.

Wow! Those are lovely. Thanks, I'm looking forward to digging into this thing. I hope this weekend to get the stuck parts un-stuck.

I am curious though, what constitutes a "poor" repaint? (Just so I don't do it myself!) I'd strip it down to bare metal, prime and paint.

 

[MikeyMakey]

I live very close to the great Pacific rusty fog generator, right next to agricultural areas. Yours is almost pristine by some of what I’ve seen, but not bought. I have no idea if any were refurbed, but I’ve seen a few that supposedly got sent to metal salvage. Just lumps of rust where fasteners should be, pitted columns, very heartbreaking.

Thanks! It's helpful for me to get a feel for where this thing lives on the rust spectrum. I am realizing it's not as extreme as my initial thought.

 

[MikeyMakey]

DP#112 was the most fubar machine I ever bought that was not a refurb. There were very few salvageable parts, but I still came out ahead. I'm still using that table as part of a grinder stand.

​

Wow!

 

[MikeyMakey]

I agree with Frank. IMHO, you did very well. I'd take one like that any day over a unit with missing parts, jury rigged mods, big arc of shame, layers of non OEM paint, etc, etc. Your restoration is mostly just labor. Just work on one section at a time. It's really fun to bring these old machines back to life.

My latest Delta before and after.

Gorgeous! Thanks for sharing. Love the style of that one.

 

[FrankLee]

I am curious though, what constitutes a "poor" repaint?

A poor paint job to me is when a machine is not completely dismantled, not properly prepped and/or not properly masked.
Often times these are done with a brush and parts are cemented together with paint. Other times, the entire machine is spray-bombed.

 

[xnology]

When I picked my 150 up it was also stuck. A lot of penetrating oil and cleaning and it runs great even if it isn’t the prettiest

Started running some of the uglier parts through a rust removal bath. Now I don’t know how far I’m going to take it…

 

[Firstram]

Rust Removal

I came across this video on youtube. Looked interesting enough to give it a try. I was pretty surprised at the results for common household stuff - and I was quite skeptical dropping the first part in. Beyond Ballistics did a fantastic job here! The '57 Chevy truck door hinge was in the...

www.garagejournal.com

 

[xnology]

Rust Removal

I came across this video on youtube. Looked interesting enough to give it a try. I was pretty surprised at the results for common household stuff - and I was quite skeptical dropping the first part in. Beyond Ballistics did a fantastic job here! The '57 Chevy truck door hinge was in the...

www.garagejournal.com

That would be me...

 

[xnology]

And that stuff works like magic!

 

[Firstram]

That would be me...

I dropped the link for the OP, he could really use that formula!

And thanks for posting it.

 

[TxSteve]

If it was mine, Here's what I'd do first thing:

Find a 55 gallon drum. You can find them for about $10 on FB marketplace.

Look at this thread and make a big batch. Rust removal alternative

Remove the motor/ and take the top off the base/etc to fit in the barrel. I wouldn't worry about wiring.

Soak in the solution overnight.

See where that takes you. It might completely transform your feelings about this project.

 

[xnology]

Seriously, MikeyMakey - go to the above links.

That stuff will make your life sooo much easier!

 

[Cleave]

Sounds like your son is going to get a good initiation project with you!

 

[Jayman17]

There has been some amazing transformations I've seen on GJ, I'm sure yours will be another one.
A soak in Simple green will degrease and remove paint on these parts, then use that formula posted above with citric acid and washing soda to remove the rust.

 

[Firstram]

Some people are using baking soda and some are using washing soda. I guess it doesn’t matter?

wrong thread!

 

[xnology]

Some people are using baking soda and some are using washing soda. I guess it doesn’t matter?

wrong thread!

Both work. Just different amounts.

 

[FrankLee]

I use straight citric acid in water. In general, I found that warm water works well for cast iron parts and the hottest tap water works best for steel parts.

 

[MikeyMakey]

I'm happy with this morning's progress. After liberal hosing with PB, WD-40, and Simple Green, all of the siezed parts are now un-stuck. Including the chuck, the depth stop fine-adjust knob, the head lock, a safety collar, the hub, and the quill. All were stuck before and now move more or less as they should.

One casualty - the rubber gasket at the top of the quill ripped at some point (I didn't notice until I saw it laying on the ground). What purpose does that serve? Is it just a bumper when the quill returns upward?

 

[FrankLee]

I'm happy with this morning's progress. After liberal hosing with PB, WD-40, and Simple Green, all of the siezed parts are now un-stuck. Including the chuck, the depth stop fine-adjust knob, the head lock, a safety collar, the hub, and the quill. All were stuck before and now move more or less as they should.

That's very good progress!

One casualty - the rubber gasket at the top of the quill ripped at some point (I didn't notice until I saw it laying on the ground). What purpose does that serve? Is it just a bumper when the quill returns upward?

Yes, just a quill return bumper. Not sure why that part is called a gasket.

 

[MikeyMakey]

Seriously, MikeyMakey - go to the above links.

That stuff will make your life sooo much easier!

Thanks! I'll definitely be trying that. I have used straight citric acid in the past on a hand plane that I de-rusted, but sounds like the baking soda and dawn addition works even better!

 

[MikeyMakey]

I agree with Frank. IMHO, you did very well. I'd take one like that any day over a unit with missing parts, jury rigged mods, big arc of shame, layers of non OEM paint, etc, etc. Your restoration is mostly just labor. Just work on one section at a time. It's really fun to bring these old machines back to life.

My latest Delta before and after.

This is beautiful!! What year is yours? I'm guessing mid-'40s?

 

[Davefr]

This is beautiful!! What year is yours? I'm guessing mid-'40s?

Good guess. 1943.

 

[MikeyMakey]

I made some more progress today. My weekends have been busy since I brought this home, and today's the first day I found myself with nothing demanding my time. So, I was able to dig back in.

I got the bits and pieces removed from the head, removed the motor, and got the head casting and table removed from the mast. Those were a little challenging, but came off after a brief fight.

I tried tentatively to tap out the fasteners holding the headband on while the head was still on the mast, but they seemed stubborn so I decided to wait until I can get the head on a table.

I could NOT get the mast to move in the base at all. I've hosed it with PB blaster and my motivation was waning by then so I'm leaving it to sit until tomorrow. I may have to hit it with heat. Any advice beyond that?

 

[MikeyMakey]

Oops: double post, and I don't see an option to delete it.

 

[FrankLee]

I made some more progress today. My weekends have been busy since I brought this home, and today's the first day I found myself with nothing demanding my time. So, I was able to dig back in.

I got the bits and pieces removed from the head, removed the motor, and got the head casting and table removed from the mast. Those were a little challenging, but came off after a brief fight.

I tried tentatively to tap out the fasteners holding the headband on while the head was still on the mast, but they seemed stubborn so I decided to wait until I can get the head on a table.

I could NOT get the mast to move in the base at all. I've hosed it with PB blaster and my motivation was waning by then so I'm leaving it to sit until tomorrow. I may have to hit it with heat. Any advice beyond that?

What is your motor model number?

Please post a photo of the bottom of the column from the underside of the base.

This was one of the first techniques I used to remove stuck columns:

 

[MikeyMakey]

What is your motor model number?

Please post a photo of the bottom of the column from the underside of the base.

This was one of the first techniques I used to remove stuck columns:

The motor is 113.19656. Thanks for the advice!!

 

[FrankLee]

The motor is 113.19656. Thanks for the advice!!

Thanks for the new photos.

The date code on the motor, M63, is December 1963, so the machine is likely a '64 model, which corroborates your estimate above.

Here's the motor in the '64 catalog: www.vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/2874.pdf#page=18

The thick coat of oily sawdust is probably a good thing. IME, the motor will clean up beautifully. Also IME, that style of motor is the very easiest to dismantle and clean.


The bottom of the column looks pretty good; no crusty rust and not mushroomed. I'm optimistic that the 2x4 method will work.

 

[Davefr]

I wouldn't worry too much about separating the column from the base. I find it easier to polish the column standing upright already attached to the base. Use 1" wide sandpaper rolls. Wrap a strip completely around the column and just pull back and forth top to bottom as you progress thru the grits. Once the base is prepared for painting just mask off the bottom of the column prior to painting.

 

[cgrutt]

Doesn't look that bad to me. I restored an old Walker Turner from the 40s that appeared to be in much worse condition. There's a recent thread with a homemade rust solution (acidic acid and baking soda/powder) I made a batch and was surprised how great it worked. Might try disassembling parts and letting it soak a couple days. Transmission fluid and acetone mixed 50/50 also works wonders. Good luck!

 

[MikeyMakey]

Thanks for the new photos.

The date code on the motor, M63, is December 1963, so the machine is likely a '64 model, which corroborates your estimate above.

Here's the motor in the '64 catalog: www.vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/2874.pdf#page=18

The thick coat of oily sawdust is probably a good thing. IME, the motor will clean up beautifully. Also IME, that style of motor is the very easiest to dismantle and clean.


The bottom of the column looks pretty good; no crusty rust and not mushroomed. I'm optimistic that the 2x4 method will work.

Thank you! I've run the motor a few times, and it's quite noisy, so I'll replace the bearings. I've been searching to find the size of the bearings for this motor and have come up empty so far. Any advice on finding the bearing size, aside from taking them out and measuring with calipers?

 

[FrankLee]

That motor has sleeve bearings which are generally not replaceable. Usually sleeve bearing motors are quiet .
Maybe a good cleaning will help.

 

[y'sguy]

that one should work out fine, depending on how far you want to take it. I've been impressed with Frank Lee's method of just cleaning the castings thoroughly without repainting. They turn out very well and are certainly good enough to work with in one's garage, without becoming an unnecessary showpiece. I repainted mine but I'm pretty sure I could have kept it original if I had tried it. The column restore is what I think helps out the look. If you can figure out a way to rig a lath-type affair to spin the column, you have got it made.

here's mine. I do things a little differently now, but I am really happy to have it.

 

[MikeyMakey]

that one should work out fine, depending on how far you want to take it. I've been impressed with Frank Lee's method of just cleaning the castings thoroughly without repainting. They turn out very well and are certainly good enough to work with in one's garage, without becoming an unnecessary showpiece. I repainted mine but I'm pretty sure I could have kept it original if I had tried it. The column restore is what I think helps out the look. If you can figure out a way to rig a lath-type affair to spin the column, you have got it made.

here's mine. I do things a little differently now, but I am really happy to have it.

That looks great!!

 

[MikeyMakey]

Well, it's coming along nicely. I sprayed primer on the first couple of pieces today. There's still lots to do, but I'm making progress. I wasn't able to get the column out of the base and gave up after trying off and on for several days, but was able to soak the base in citric acid. I'll have to spend some quality time on the base with a wire wheel, and will have to work on the column standing up, but I'm good with that and I have faith it'll come out well in the end.