86turbodsl
Well-known member
Nice looking trailer repairs and why were you hauling a combine? That's pretty far outside your usual industrial fare. Do you even have crops over in Maine?
Above 1200 Sq/FT The Salvage Garage
- Thread starter Strouty
- Start date
Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
jakemac
Well-known member
We got Budatoes in Maine. 
Johanfpa
Well-known member
The combine in the picture was pulled by Uncle Willie not Strouty
andyvh1959
Well-known member
All brake hoses expand under pressure, the cheap construction OEM brake hoses and the Teflon tubed/SS braided hoses. Generally the Teflon tubed hoses expand the least because the Teflon inner tube is much more resistant to expansion than the synthetic rubber common to OEM brake hoses. Teflon inner tube is far stronger than synthetic rubber. Every motorcycle brake system onto which I installed Teflon/SS braid hose produced better braking and better feel at the brake lever because the hose has much lower volumetric expansion (swelling) under load. Because you sensed swelling with Teflon/SS brake hose does not mean all such hose are the same.
I work in engineering for the largest hydraulic hose producer in the world and it makes both the synthetic rubber OEM style brake hose and the Teflon/SS braid hose, and the Teflon/SS braid hose always exhibits the least expansion. I for one would never waste money on stock OEM synthetic rubber brake hoses. Over time the inner tube softens and swells, which increases the spongy response/feel in brake systems (feels like there is air in the brake lines). Teflon lined brake hose does not break down and swell/soften over time.
ALL hydraulic brake hoses made to SAE standards are braided hose. Standard synthetic rubber (OEM style) brake hose has an inner tube onto which is braided polyester reinforcement, then a cover is extruded onto the built up hose and it is vulcanized to cure the synthetic tube and cover. That vulcanization process itself can produce all sorts of quality issues. The OEM standard hoses only have just enough polyester braid to meet the SAE test standards, as the least cost is the design driver. Standard hose could be made to perform much like Teflon/SS braid hose but the cost to achieve that performance is of no gains to the OEMs. Braided SS hose has the braid exposed or under a thin cover onto which the SAE standards labeling is applied. But Teflon inner tube hose is not vulcanized, there is no synthetic rubber in it. The inner tube is extruded and the braid is applied onto the tube. Earl's does not actually make the braided hose. Like so many brake hose suppliers, Earls, Russel, Goodrich and so many others buy the actual hose from a few of the hose manufacturers around the world. The better ones come from well known producers like Aeroquip, Parker and others. I'd be suspect of any SS braid hose from common asian producers.
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I am over at the SG with Perk, it is colder inside than it is outside and the thermostat is giving me trouble again. I think I have it figured out now, but it seems like things can be a crapshoot with the NEST and low tech furnaces. My furnace doesn't put out enough juice to keep the NEST happy, so I have a wall-wart that provides 24 volts to the NEST, except it appears the wires may not have been contacting very well. They are low voltage, so generally small, but the wires off the wall-wart are like 100 gauge, so I had to strip them back further and double them over, seems like the spring terminal on the NEST is now engaging better and my heat is going, I hate 38 degrees inside. My fingers are freezing typing this, I am going outside where it is a balmy 45.
mybigwarwagon
Well-known member
The clockspring is the power feed to the airbag. It is a more secure connection than a horn ring could provide. I am sure they have some computerized method of doing it in newer vehicles.
jakemac
Well-known member
Ahhhhh, now I get it. I’ve only pulled a steering wheel once, and that was before airbags were a thing.
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My Brother really wanted the big shiny boxes, I gave him a good deal and still made a bit, now I just need to sell the other ones I don't need, Pretty sure my Dad may want a couple for his trailer. I am still at the SG making a mess, you can only drive in the area that is gravel without getting into the mud, I am trying to prep things for the auction and I have a few trailer repairs to do, then there is the landing gear and tires to swap, and the track crane is in the way, need to swap the track on that too. My lists just keep getting longer...........
Lou's Garage
Well-known member
Nope, they are still using a "clockspring" as it's a hardwired connection with the airbag. When we first put airbags on our cars, they used a horn ring type of connection. There was a high percentage of false SRS lights so the engineers designed the clockspring to provide a solid connection and eliminate the intermittent false codes. The downside is whenever you are working on the steering, you must be careful to keep the steering shaft in the center position as the clockspring will break if rotated too much to the left or right.
I am thinking I may have changed the steering position when I swapped out the rag joint that connects it to the steering box, but I am only off a little and I know I didn’t spin it around, just moved it back and forth trying to get the splines to line up. The truck has 350k on it, so it could be a coincidence, but I will blame myself at this point.
mybigwarwagon
Well-known member
I was kinda right, can I get partial credit?
This is what happens when I post while decaffeinated!
I know too well they break. I had a column apart, and Heath spun the wheel. At least I had many spares.
Lou's Garage
Well-known member
I've been stocking up myself. So far I've been able to get everything I have needed but put on a few parts that I know I'm going to be prematurely replacing again. Back to visiting pick-your-part et al too.
Lou Manglass
Lou Manglass
My plan is to be my own parts store, so far so good. 
Picked up the winch cable from my Brother, I guess I have it to him, he used some, now it is back with me. Nice 1/2” galvanized cable, will be perfect for the lower winch on the Muv-All, I just have to see how much cable I want to put on the winch drum, I figure 150 feet or so should be good enough. Once I spoil the old cable off, I will see how much is on there, that should give me a better idea of how much 1/2” will fit without being ridiculous.
I delivered the really pretty boxes to my brother, also took some measurements and I think I can fit two of the boxes on the Tru-Hitch, one 5’ on each side, then one will fit the ramp truck pretty well. Not sure if I want to save anymore, will have to keep looking, I already made money selling the two shiny ones to my Brother, he is so cheap, when he offered money, I made him a higher counter offer just to hear his wallet squeak. I waited a bit and then told him he could have them at his first offer, it was funny.
Picked up the winch cable from my Brother, I guess I have it to him, he used some, now it is back with me. Nice 1/2” galvanized cable, will be perfect for the lower winch on the Muv-All, I just have to see how much cable I want to put on the winch drum, I figure 150 feet or so should be good enough. Once I spoil the old cable off, I will see how much is on there, that should give me a better idea of how much 1/2” will fit without being ridiculous.
I delivered the really pretty boxes to my brother, also took some measurements and I think I can fit two of the boxes on the Tru-Hitch, one 5’ on each side, then one will fit the ramp truck pretty well. Not sure if I want to save anymore, will have to keep looking, I already made money selling the two shiny ones to my Brother, he is so cheap, when he offered money, I made him a higher counter offer just to hear his wallet squeak. I waited a bit and then told him he could have them at his first offer, it was funny.
Well, it looks like I may be able to use all the boxes except one oddball, even that I bet I could find a use for. A couple of them will have to be cut down from 24" deep to about 22" deep, good part is that they need some surgery anyways, so it won't be too bad and in the end, they will fit the space perfectly. I am glad I didn't offer any to my Dad, then I wouldn't be able to use them for all my trailers. The best part is that they are already paid for now. I have a few metal ones that can go to the auction now that I am replacing them with aluminum ones, just need to find the time to remove them......
I have a few metal ones that can go to the auction now that I am replacing them with aluminum ones, just need to find the time to remove them......A few more pictures, they have almost half the D-Rings on, waiting on the 5 by 10 sheet of 3/8” Diamond plate, but should have this round of stuff done by this weekend. Next round will be the ramp up to the deck and the headboard and winch. I have to get the other winch ready first, should be a couple weeks before we do the next round, at least I will be able to tie down just about anything.
xtremek
Well-known member
The trailer is looking really nice. Is your traded Burb be enough to cover all the mods you want done?
racer-john
Well-known member
Has anyone seen/heard from Strouty?
xtremek
Well-known member
SHHHH!!!!!! He's probably working his **** off filling The Wall of Lista, taking care of paper work, and getting trailers loaded up for the auction. I hope he stays on a roll.
Unfortunately, I haven’t done anything fun like that. I got sidetracked looking for the title to the trailer Dad wants to send to the auction, then I waited for some deliveries, then the new cat tree showed up and it needed to be assembled.
Today I did get a few things done, made the Blue Burb look better.
Today I did get a few things done, made the Blue Burb look better.
Well, the Blue Burb is at it again, I did some errands, then went to my Brother’s house, turned the Burb off, then hung out for a while, went to leave, just cranked, no start. I tried a few things, but nothing seemed to work, looked like there was no oil pressure, so I went drive his truck to the Hill and got a new GM oil pressure switch and my manual oil pressure gauge. When I got back, I hooked up the manual pressure gauge in place of the oil pressure switch, it started right up, oil pressure was fine. So I swapped to the new pressure switch, now it reads oil pressure properly.
Took it for a drive, then turned it off again, couldn’t get it to crank with no start, it would start up like it usually does. I hate intermittent issues, I already was having trouble trusting it, now I am even more leery of it.
Took it for a drive, then turned it off again, couldn’t get it to crank with no start, it would start up like it usually does. I hate intermittent issues, I already was having trouble trusting it, now I am even more leery of it.
xtremek
Well-known member
I'm sorry to hear this latest bit of news. Intermittents are the worst.
I am going to have trust issues for a long time. It could be a simple bad connection int he harness, the previous owner changed the engine, so all the plugs were disconnected at one point or another.
This morning is cold and the waste oil furnace was off, so the shop at the Hill was 40, the waste oil furnace is always finicky, no clue why it wasn't firing, so intermittent issue number two.
I am going to unload some things, then load some material and shelves to take to my Buddy's shop, we are going to try and build a rack for his steel and move some things around to make a bit more room. Hopefully it warms up soon, I don't like this cold temperature ****.......
This morning is cold and the waste oil furnace was off, so the shop at the Hill was 40, the waste oil furnace is always finicky, no clue why it wasn't firing, so intermittent issue number two.
I am going to unload some things, then load some material and shelves to take to my Buddy's shop, we are going to try and build a rack for his steel and move some things around to make a bit more room. Hopefully it warms up soon, I don't like this cold temperature ****.......
racer-john
Well-known member
I don't remember what year your "Burb" is, but if it is younger than '89, you might check for a faulty "crank shaft position sensor", typical of a 'no start' condition.
It is a 1996, but we replaced the no name one with an NGK (technically NTK), GM stopped making them and I couldn't find any NOS. The only thing I haven't done and I will do, is a reset procedure to relearn the timing, I should have done it, but the thing started and ran great. I am out of sensors and theories, now I am just throwing spaghetti at the wall to see what sticks.
casmurbax
Well-known member
I am truly amazed at how much stuff you find. Nice job on the trailer.
Did you name the green 3500hd yet? Reminds of Emergency, Squad 51.....
Did you name the green 3500hd yet? Reminds of Emergency, Squad 51.....
Monza Harry
Well-known member
Strouty You are going to need some of this: https://www.riteaid.com/shop/vaseli...FlFeOM8Dj1QSTu-8qgTFpCLVQYUbdblgaApXfEALw_wcB search for an institutional supplier, as that is going to be a
BYOV (Bring Your Own Vaseline) Party The doctors say relax "Don't Bear Down" I still think there will be bleeding! LOL! [Oh no Pic's required of that one!] Best of Luck! All the man parts breaking aside this approach to your "toys" appears to be working for you, and THANX for sharing about your upcoming "Drive by Colonoscopy" Uhm... we mean your adventures. Harry
Start a post on here with a list of everything you have done, lots of good guys on there who know a thing or 2 about 6.5s
6.5L Diesel Engine
Discuss the 6.5 GM diesel engine & all associated components.
www.dieselplace.com
I am expecting the aluminum Diamond plate to hurt, unfortunately, it is going to make my life easier for all the tool box doors, fold out steps and panels that need to be removed for access to the suspension. The current steel covers and doors are terrible to open and I am not a little guy, but the box that stores my chains, that lid takes all I can to get open.
Spent the rest of the day helping my Buddy, we used some random pieces from my back yard storage to make a pedestal that raises his air compressor up about four feet. When it is done, there will be a steel rack under the compressor, saving home about three feet by twenty feet of floor space and it will create some additional shelf space. We also reorganized and added another shelving unit for his oil and filters. There is more bracing to add, plus some rubber needs to be put under the feet, I am sure that will get done next week.
I was glad to be able to help him, but it was a long day, then I had to go unload the F-350 and get the chains and straps for my trip to pick up some loader parts and the military trailer tomorrow.
Spent the rest of the day helping my Buddy, we used some random pieces from my back yard storage to make a pedestal that raises his air compressor up about four feet. When it is done, there will be a steel rack under the compressor, saving home about three feet by twenty feet of floor space and it will create some additional shelf space. We also reorganized and added another shelving unit for his oil and filters. There is more bracing to add, plus some rubber needs to be put under the feet, I am sure that will get done next week.
I was glad to be able to help him, but it was a long day, then I had to go unload the F-350 and get the chains and straps for my trip to pick up some loader parts and the military trailer tomorrow.
Oh, forgot about the rams, they will be for something at some point, they need to be rebuilt, but they are only two years old and free, there will be two more at some point, all matching. Then there is my expensive hydraulic oil, what isn’t expensive right now? That is for Perk when we do the transmission swap, hopefully in the next couple months.
jack stand
Well-known member
50 gallon$!
xtremek
Well-known member
Yes, because neither is heavy enough to haul the engine in the military trailer. Two questions, why are you buying the military trailer? What is the engine in the trailer? I know you probably already told us, but I'm trying to get out to the shop and do some work.About a grand.
Loading the trailer in the trailer, I have extra capacity because there are two trailers, right?
It is actually a 5.9 cummins, starting a small collection of those now too.
I am going to be 100% honest, I thought the trailer was smaller, the pictures showed no reference, it is pretty big, a lot taller than I really wanted, but the price was right. The plan was to use it behind Perk as a small trailer to be able to grab stuff quick and easy. With the length of it, I can easily load it with the knuckle boom, the sides fold down, so you can also load it with a forklift and it has nice tiedowns inside the bed for securing odd stuff. I liked the idea of it because it has air brakes, also has plenty (definitely) of ground clearance. Once I build the all wheel drive truck, it will be a really nice addition for rough areas off road.
I am going to be 100% honest, I thought the trailer was smaller, the pictures showed no reference, it is pretty big, a lot taller than I really wanted, but the price was right. The plan was to use it behind Perk as a small trailer to be able to grab stuff quick and easy. With the length of it, I can easily load it with the knuckle boom, the sides fold down, so you can also load it with a forklift and it has nice tiedowns inside the bed for securing odd stuff. I liked the idea of it because it has air brakes, also has plenty (definitely) of ground clearance. Once I build the all wheel drive truck, it will be a really nice addition for rough areas off road.
I almost got a perfect score, last time I hit 9, I feel like I am in a Seinfeld episode when I get down that close.
I was going to try and unload tonight, but I am beat, plus the Mitsu is the best thing to actually off load the trailer, so I will bring it to the Hill and deal with it in the morning.
I also never thought I would have to say this about a trailer, but the sway bar bushings are all warn out.
I was going to try and unload tonight, but I am beat, plus the Mitsu is the best thing to actually off load the trailer, so I will bring it to the Hill and deal with it in the morning.
I also never thought I would have to say this about a trailer, but the sway bar bushings are all warn out.