Between 485 & 705 SQ/FT The **** Shack
- Thread starter bdbecker
- Start date
Workspaces between 485 and 705 squarefeet.
s2kattracks
Well-known member
Place is looking good! Nice work on the projects too!
1/2 Cup
Member Emeritus
Grumblebum
Well-known member
Great thread bdbecker, these are my favourites - working with what you have. 
I've had a thought about the crack in your slab. Could you hire/borrow a concrete grinder and grind that lip flat? Then maybe some grout to tidy up the gap. Has the slab moved much since you've had the garage ?
Work bench looking great, keen to see how you finish it off.
Cheers GB
I've had a thought about the crack in your slab. Could you hire/borrow a concrete grinder and grind that lip flat? Then maybe some grout to tidy up the gap. Has the slab moved much since you've had the garage ?
Work bench looking great, keen to see how you finish it off.
Cheers GB
Wow! Thanks for all the compliments guys!
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I forget sometimes how spoiled I am with having a dozen or so lumber and hardware stores within a 10 minute drive (I used to have to drive over an hour one way to get materials and supplies). If you can't find something at one store, the next one down the road probably has it. Out of all the big box stores in my area, Home Depot has become my favorite. It is slightly more expensive than the place I used to go to, but the product quality is generally better and the customer service at the store I go to is exceptional, so in my mind its totally worth it.
Now, if you really want to hear about an amazing store... let me tell you about Mills Fleet Farm (http://www.fleetfarm.com/). It is the ultimate "Man Mall".
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Lumber Liquidators sells a utility grade oak flooring for $1 a square foot. I considered steel, butcher block, etc. but really like the idea of the flooring because there won't be a big seam somewhere on the work surface (just hundreds of little ones). It should give the work surface nice continuity and be plenty durable for the projects I work on.
http://www.lumberliquidators.com/ll/c/Utility-Oak-R.L.-Colston-OA2U/10008112
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Thanks Michael! Interestingly enough, this workbench started getting caught in the analysis death spiral before I finally caught myself and just went for it. Just like every other recovering overthinker out there, I'm bound to relapse from time to time - the trick is to recognize the relapse before its too late.
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Looking at the crack, I think someone may have tried grouting it before. The main thing I have to be careful about here is expansion and contraction with the seasons. We see temps hit 100F/38C during the summer and 0F/-18C during the winter. I couldn't say if the slab has moved much because, until I started really working on things this summer, I had too much junk piled up in there to actually see it. These days, I'm getting used to the crack... its becoming a part of the family.
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I forget sometimes how spoiled I am with having a dozen or so lumber and hardware stores within a 10 minute drive (I used to have to drive over an hour one way to get materials and supplies). If you can't find something at one store, the next one down the road probably has it. Out of all the big box stores in my area, Home Depot has become my favorite. It is slightly more expensive than the place I used to go to, but the product quality is generally better and the customer service at the store I go to is exceptional, so in my mind its totally worth it.
Now, if you really want to hear about an amazing store... let me tell you about Mills Fleet Farm (http://www.fleetfarm.com/). It is the ultimate "Man Mall".
-----
Lumber Liquidators sells a utility grade oak flooring for $1 a square foot. I considered steel, butcher block, etc. but really like the idea of the flooring because there won't be a big seam somewhere on the work surface (just hundreds of little ones). It should give the work surface nice continuity and be plenty durable for the projects I work on.
http://www.lumberliquidators.com/ll/c/Utility-Oak-R.L.-Colston-OA2U/10008112
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Thanks Michael! Interestingly enough, this workbench started getting caught in the analysis death spiral before I finally caught myself and just went for it. Just like every other recovering overthinker out there, I'm bound to relapse from time to time - the trick is to recognize the relapse before its too late.
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Looking at the crack, I think someone may have tried grouting it before. The main thing I have to be careful about here is expansion and contraction with the seasons. We see temps hit 100F/38C during the summer and 0F/-18C during the winter. I couldn't say if the slab has moved much because, until I started really working on things this summer, I had too much junk piled up in there to actually see it. These days, I'm getting used to the crack... its becoming a part of the family.
JC23
Well-known member
Shelves on the lower level?
No, I'm planning on making storage/job carts similar to this concept.
http://www.startwoodworking.com/post/roll-away-workshop
Jo Diesel
Well-known member
I can't believe those were totally what I was picturing. Drawers or open access to front and just turn around when you want the CLEAN LOOK.
JC23
Well-known member
I can dig it!
TexasKen
Well-known member
Looking Sharp! Its a slow process but well worth the journey. I need to start a thread of my redo - hope to start after the garage sale and when I start doing the electrical, additional framing, etc. Did you insulate yet and what kind did you chose? Any plans for an AC unit?
CodeRedZ
Well-known member
very nice work so far.
sean Buick 76
Well-known member
Really nice progress!
First of all, welcome to the forum! Yes, it is well worth the effort. I have not insulated the garage yet and probably won't get to it until anytime soon. I plan on using good old kraft faced R13 fiberglass insulation in the walls. Maybe blow in a little extra in the ceiling, but we'll see. I do have a window AC unit that was left by the previous owner. When I plugged it in this summer, surprisingly enough, it worked. I'm not sure how much I'll use it though, most of the time I'm in the garage is at night when the temps are in the 70's-80's.
Between work and getting the house/yard ready for winter, I didn't make a lot of progress on the garage or workbench this last week. We also decided to take a last minute trip to my folks' over the weekend. Can't complain too much because I got to spend all day Saturday pheasant hunting with my Dad. The best part of the day was when we hunted the farm that my Dad grew up on. I'd never had the opportunity to hunt it because the previous owners wouldn't grant permission to anyone. The farm sold a year or two ago and my Dad asked the new owners if we could hunt it and they said no problem. The icing on the cake was that I shot two birds! A great memory, that's for sure...
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runt262
Well-known member
Haha sweet **** shack. Seems like youre going through a lot of the same stuff in your garage as mine. But yours is in a lot better shape than mine. Looks awesome.
Whats the motorcycle anyway? I didnt catch what it was if it was mentioned.
The bench is going to look great though. I really like the idea of the carts below the bench. Looking forward to seeing how it turns out.
What are you using for a table top?
Whats the motorcycle anyway? I didnt catch what it was if it was mentioned.
The bench is going to look great though. I really like the idea of the carts below the bench. Looking forward to seeing how it turns out.
What are you using for a table top?
Thanks Runt!
I haven't really mentioned the motorcycle yet. Its a 2006 HD Sportster 883. I bought it brand new off the showroom floor on June 24th, 2006. I think I've had like 8 bikes come and go since then, but this is my first motorcycle and (God willing) I will never sell it. I've made all the "standard" modifications you make to a Harley - pipes, air cleaner, handlebars, shocks, forward controls, etc. I prefer riding to polishing, which is why it has a spray bomb paint job and as little chrome as possible. Between life distractions and the fact that the seals are shot in the front end, I haven't really ridden her too much in the last few years. Now that I actually have a functioning garage space, I hope to go through her from top to bottom this winter and get her roadworthy again.
(This is an older pic - I relocated the speedo and am running a different taillight setup now)
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Currently, the bench top is 23/32" CDX plywood. The goal is to install some $1/sq. ft. utility grade oak hardwood flooring from Lumber Liquidators on there. I originally considered butcher block or steel, but either option is out of the budget for me. We are trying to become debt free and keep our 1 year old in diapers, so spending money on the garage isn't really at the top of our priority list. Its all good though, I've really enjoyed the challenge because it forces me to find creative solutions to the issues I want to address.
runt262
Well-known member
Bitchin ride man. You're using it as it should be used.
I can understand the budget restrictions. I have been such a cheapskate with my garage. Working my network for materials has paid off. As well as scouring the industrial parks for scrap wood. I have a good stack of 2x4s because I refused to pay for materials for the garage when its just a place to play around in.
Mind you, I have paid for materials when it counts. Keep up the good work. The place looks great
Redboy
Well-known member
Hah, I love your honesty! Can totally relate...
I've just stumbled on your thread and wanted to say that it's a fun read. You've got good ideas and realistic goals, and you've got a very accessible writing style. Kudos to ya, and keep up the good work! I look forward to following along.
I was looking for some more bike pics over lunch and found these gems. Sturgis 2011, taken on Needles Hwy if I remember correctly.
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Cancel the idea of oak flooring as the workbench top, we're going with heavy metal! As the guys were doing the pre-winter clean up of the yard at work, they found a pallet of 3/16" plate steel. No idea how it ended up outside or what it's for, so it was decided that it should be scrapped because it had too much surface rust for production parts. Before the pallet hit the bin, they gave us employees a chance to buy it. So at $15 per sheet, I bought three. In between running around with the wife today, I found time to cut down a couple sheets and wrestle them into the garage. I calculated the weight to be right at 150lbs each, 300lbs total. That should be a fairly durable work surface.
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The shiny corner in the pic was me playing around with a wire cup brush. I'm happy to say that it should clean up perfectly - nice enough to look decent, but not so nice that I'm going to be afraid to use it. Also, you may notice that I also stained the legs this week as well.
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The shiny corner in the pic was me playing around with a wire cup brush. I'm happy to say that it should clean up perfectly - nice enough to look decent, but not so nice that I'm going to be afraid to use it. Also, you may notice that I also stained the legs this week as well.
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oldironfarmer
Well-known member
Great steal on the steel deal! That will make one nice bench. And more weight is more stability.
How are you going to tie it down?
I'm trying to figure out what to do for new benches and I just like yours pretty good
I think I would tie the steel down to wood with flat head screws in recessed holes.
How are you going to tie it down?
I'm trying to figure out what to do for new benches and I just like yours pretty good
I think I would tie the steel down to wood with flat head screws in recessed holes.
Thanks Andy. Like I always say, I'd rather be lucky than good!
Eventually I will tie the bench to the wall once its been sheeted and insulated. I am actually planning on leaving the top free-floating for now. The next step in the finishing process is to trim out the edges of the workbench in 1x, which I plan to make flush with the face of the steel, creating a lip to hold it in place. I also intend to weld the two halves together so the top will be seamless. I figure if it still wants to shift around after that, a few countersunk screws wouldn't be too difficult to add.
I will do a more detailed write-up on the workbench leg construction soon. I guess I'm getting greedy, but the 16' of workbench space is probably going to grow to 24' (L-shape).
Eventually I will tie the bench to the wall once its been sheeted and insulated. I am actually planning on leaving the top free-floating for now. The next step in the finishing process is to trim out the edges of the workbench in 1x, which I plan to make flush with the face of the steel, creating a lip to hold it in place. I also intend to weld the two halves together so the top will be seamless. I figure if it still wants to shift around after that, a few countersunk screws wouldn't be too difficult to add.
I will do a more detailed write-up on the workbench leg construction soon. I guess I'm getting greedy, but the 16' of workbench space is probably going to grow to 24' (L-shape).
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1/2 Cup
Member Emeritus
Great score on the steel, you will not know your self.
Regards
Regards
I got the top welded, sanded, wire brushed, and oiled today. Knowing what I know now, I would not have welded the two halves together because it warped the plates just enough to be annoying. On the other hand, I am super excited about how the top looks overall, so we'll call today a tie.
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doorfx
Well-known member
In glad you told me that !! I will not weld my two halves together
can you take a close up of the top ? What oil did you use ?
can you take a close up of the top ? What oil did you use ?oldironfarmer
Well-known member
Welding them together without warping is all in the technique. If you go slow and weld from both sides in short segments you can get a good weld with no appreciable warping.
bdbecker: If you can get a piece of 3/4" to use for an anvil, you can support your top on wood shims with the anvil under the weld and hammer your warp out, or mostly out. But it looks good as is, and you'll not notice it very long.
bdbecker: If you can get a piece of 3/4" to use for an anvil, you can support your top on wood shims with the anvil under the weld and hammer your warp out, or mostly out. But it looks good as is, and you'll not notice it very long.
runt262
Well-known member
Damn!! Great looking workbench! Thats going to be able to take a beating. What will the first project to be worked on on top?
mr_aj_johnson
Active member
- Joined
- Nov 21, 2011
- Messages
- 36
Jumped on here looking for garage sizes similar to mine. I'm on my first total redo of shelving and benches trying to create a space to work on 2 car projects as well as contain all the house and wood tools....
How much do you actually use the tall bench over the table saw? Or is it more of a shelf?
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How much do you actually use the tall bench over the table saw? Or is it more of a shelf?
Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
In glad you told me that !! I will not weld my two halves together
It's a little more brown than the picture shows, but I really like how it looks.
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Using WD40 for now. We have good luck protecting our layout tables with it at work. The main issue I foresee is oil residue transferring onto my wood projects, so I'll have to find a different solution if that ends up being a problem.
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Welding them together without warping is all in the technique. If you go slow and weld from both sides in short segments you can get a good weld with no appreciable warping.
bdbecker: If you can get a piece of 3/4" to use for an anvil, you can support your top on wood shims with the anvil under the weld and hammer your warp out, or mostly out. But it looks good as is, and you'll not notice it very long.
Yeah, I should have known better. I was honestly too focused on trying to get good penetration with my little 120 welder that I never even considered that this would happen. I'm going to try and flatten it out a little. I don't need it to be perfectly flat, but I would like to see it a little better than it is.
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Wife is currently working on updating the main bathroom and would like a new custom vanity light, so that's probably the first project.
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Thanks Terry! Glad you enjoy it!
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Hey Al, could you send me a jar of lingonberry sauce? I love that stuff!
http://www.aljohnsons.com/
The tall bench turned into a shelf within a week or two of my building it. I will eventually remove it. But that goes back to the whole mentality of the build... try something, if it doesn't work, try something else!
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I hope to finish up the bench today. I've got the day off work to watch the kiddo while our babysitter is on vacation.
nh_yota
Well-known member
Instead of oiling the steel, how about spraying a lacquer or clear coat? There must be something you can spray on bare metal without a primer.
We'll call it done for now. I did put a piece of bar stock under the weld seam and gave it a few whacks with the dead blow mallet. Subjectively, the warp is a million times more tolerable than before. Actually, I probably took about 1/2 to 2/3 of the warp out - I can happily live with it now.
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Believe me, I've been trying to find something like that all week. If it were only going to be used for something like a desk, I would put a clear epoxy on it. However, since it is a workbench, I'm not convinced that a coating like that would hold up to abuse over time.
Just today I was tearing apart some pallets on it and dragged a board with a nail in it across the surface, causing a scratch. I could care less about a scratch, but that would cause a weak spot in whatever coating I applied where pealing/chipping would likely occur, which would require eventual refinishing.
In my experience, once the steel is oiled enough times, it becomes almost seasoned like a cast iron skillet and is much less like to rust. It's also a huge incentive to keep it cleared off and clean.
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oldironfarmer
Well-known member
I would use the largest sledge hammer I had to try to straighten the top.
You might get some woodworking tool lubricant. Lot's of different products for table saw and jointer tops. Protects the metal from rust, promotes easier sliding (for woodworking) and not supposed to affect finishing properties of the wood. Grizzley's is called Slip It.
You might get some woodworking tool lubricant. Lot's of different products for table saw and jointer tops. Protects the metal from rust, promotes easier sliding (for woodworking) and not supposed to affect finishing properties of the wood. Grizzley's is called Slip It.
doorfx
Well-known member
I used boiled linseed oil on the bottom of mine on the advice of another member. It worked awesome and I will be doing the top as well.
1/2 Cup
Member Emeritus
bdbecker the bench has come up a treat.
Well done..
In regard to the oil issues you could actually do a timber over lay that is removable.
Regards
Well done..
In regard to the oil issues you could actually do a timber over lay that is removable.
Regards
Jo Diesel
Well-known member
Go to you dollar store and get the spray on anti stick coating [generic pam] and spray that on. Dries to the touch and works as welding anti spatter also. Then still clean with WD and steel wool.
I use this at work. Goes on Clear and then dries black. Use it on my welding table and spray it on any bare steel that is starting to rust. I think Oshpo is about the same stuff
I use this at work. Goes on Clear and then dries black. Use it on my welding table and spray it on any bare steel that is starting to rust. I think Oshpo is about the same stuff
