Now for Herb's Hearse, I took off Friday afternoon to meet him out at The W.H.H., before he arrived I bled the brakes, adjusted them, put 6 gallons of gas in the tank, and installed the wheels and tires. I had the charger on the battery to make sure it had plenty of juice.
When he arrived I had him in the cab for the start procedure and I was under the hood to try to help it along. I didn't have the right size fuel filter so we put the end of the hose in a Gatorade bottle to flush the lines out. Put some starting fluid in the carb and nothing. At one point while troubleshooting I tested power to the coil and it had 6. whatever volts, tested for spark and nothing. Also the brake pedal was just falling to the floor. Also we weren't getting any fuel out of the pump. AHHH
I was frustrated I'd called him all the way out just to have to admit defeat, also his wife was in the car and I didn't want to keep her waiting so we parted ways. I went in to clear my head and to watch YouTube video's and read the maintenance manual. Saturday morning I went back out determined to figure it out, eventually I discovered the "key" switch in the cab was backwards from normal on modern cars. Turn right on the switch and it kills power to the coil, left and it lets the sparks fly. Tried the starting fluid again and it fired right up for 2 seconds!
SUCCESS!!!!
Now onto the fuel problem, well it turns out the inlet side of the pump is at the front of the car not the back pointing to the fuel tank. Swapped the lines around, installed a fuel filter:
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It then started right up again. I adjusted the carb idle a bit and the idle air mixture screw and it purred like a kitten, no noticable lifter noise and no more smoke than you would expect for a 69 year old car. When he comes back this week we will put in some lead additive and try it again so he doesn't think I am blowing smoke up his tailpipe. LOL
Side note: Herb if you have a good timing light could you bring it too, I have one that is pathetic and of no real value.
So with those problems solved it was time to tackle the brakes. I tried re-bleeding them to no success so I pulled the master cylinder off, that was harder than it should have been because the brake and clutch pedals pivots are part of the master cylinder, seen here:
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There is a grease zerk between the two pivots, I removed that and found this:
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I didn't have a bolt that would fit or the special J-1441 tool. I assumed it was a reverse thread so I started hunting online and of course no one makes the tool as far as I could find and I couldn't find any info on it except for one mention of using a bolt to get it out. They said it was 12-24 thread, and of course I didn't have one, I had up to 10-24 or 10-32, then 1/4-20 and 1/4-28, so off to the parts store after work today.
I was looking for why it didn't work, I removed some of the guts and the piston was frozen in the bore, tapped it out with a big punch and found this:
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Hard to see, but it is really badly pitted so I'm now stuck with having to install a new one, it is on order and will be here in a week or so. When removing the MC the line out of it wouldn't come loose, so naturally the copper line twisted off. This turned out to be a blessing as I didn't spill any fluid.
If you caught that I did say copper, for some reason the lines from the MC to the booster and from the booster to the main lines under the car are copper with the rest being steel of some type. I made a new one before work today and will install it with the new MC when it arrives then re-bleed everything again and try it once more:
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Getting close to driving this thing again! Woo Hoo
JB