Above 1200 Sq/FT The Warthog Hidey Hole

[oldironfarmer]

Are you replacing the torque converter on the used transmission?

Good job on the oil filter. Was that one you installed?

I've been melting cans and keep finding cans with the side cut out?

Probably some engineer checking the thickness.

 

[jp828108]

I have had some oil filters that were difficult to remove, but nothing like that. I worked at a dealership for about a year doing mainly oil changes 40 hours a week before apprenticing under the master tech, and never ran into any that bad.

 

[jbmatth]

Are you replacing the torque converter on the used transmission?

Good job on the oil filter. Was that one you installed?

I've been melting cans and keep finding cans with the side cut out?

Probably some engineer checking the thickness.

Andy,
I'm using the torque converter from the good transmission along with the good transmission. I don't want to chance the other one having any contaminants in it and tearing up this one. I also will be flushing out the trans cooler and lines for the same reason.

Sadly yes that is one I installed kinda...I had to remove it to remove the trans, reinstalled then over-tightened by accident. Which brings up a story from college, I got the nickname JB SMASH. Evidently I had a habit of breaking things and people always by accident be that in flag football or in trying to get stuff to work.

I use a lot of can material for shims, you should have seen the computer chair I "fixed" in college, shims out of a PBR can, bolts, welding, 2x6 frame for the back, foam a pillow, old T-shirt, and a 5 point racing harness. Sadly I don't think I have any photos of it to share though.

I have had some oil filters that were difficult to remove, but nothing like that. I worked at a dealership for about a year doing mainly oil changes 40 hours a week before apprenticing under the master tech, and never ran into any that bad.

JP,
What can I say, sometimes I get a little over excited, never again though, it is too much work for such a bone headed move.
JB

 

[shortykorte]

You're getting a little pushy.......with all the vehicle movement around the WHHH.

So, is mechanic your day job now.

 

[jbmatth]

Shorty,
If I had to survive on the money made being a mechanic of my skill level I think I'd starve in a week. And I have more than a weeks worth of food at home now. LOL
JB

 

[dlcwent]

All this transmission talk while I'm away for a few days (rebuilding a dodge 46re during that time)

Don't be afraid of an automatic transmission. Look things over carefully and do NOT force anything while taking it apart or reassembling it. A good manual can be a great reference for the "head scratching" moments. Just lay everything out in the order of removal and reassembly will be a lot easier. When replacing seals just make sure you don't roll any. I use a feeler gauge to make sure they seat properly. Fancy clutch pack compressors can be substituted with a press and a little thought. After you've done one and it's back in the vehicle working you'll feel like you've just done what only a pro can do.

I have to chuckle at 1/2 cup. He builds a racing motor but doesn't dare to tackle an automatic. The transmission is more tolerant than an engine IMO.

 

[oldironfarmer]

All this transmission talk while I'm away for a few days (rebuilding a dodge 46re during that time)

Don't be afraid of an automatic transmission. Look things over carefully and do NOT force anything while taking it apart or reassembling it. A good manual can be a great reference for the "head scratching" moments. Just lay everything out in the order of removal and reassembly will be a lot easier. When replacing seals just make sure you don't roll any. I use a feeler gauge to make sure they seat properly. Fancy clutch pack compressors can be substituted with a press and a little thought. After you've done one and it's back in the vehicle working you'll feel like you've just done what only a pro can do.

I have to chuckle at 1/2 cup. He builds a racing motor but doesn't dare to tackle an automatic. The transmission is more tolerant than an engine IMO.

The reassuring voice of experience.

 

[jbmatth]

All this transmission talk while I'm away for a few days (rebuilding a dodge 46re during that time)

Don't be afraid of an automatic transmission. Look things over carefully and do NOT force anything while taking it apart or reassembling it. A good manual can be a great reference for the "head scratching" moments. Just lay everything out in the order of removal and reassembly will be a lot easier. When replacing seals just make sure you don't roll any. I use a feeler gauge to make sure they seat properly. Fancy clutch pack compressors can be substituted with a press and a little thought. After you've done one and it's back in the vehicle working you'll feel like you've just done what only a pro can do.

I have to chuckle at 1/2 cup. He builds a racing motor but doesn't dare to tackle an automatic. The transmission is more tolerant than an engine IMO.

DLC,
Thank you for the vote of confidence, I surely hope I can make this all work out but just don't know right now. I have a manual and within the first 3 pages there is mention to 347,386 special tools needed. Are their really that many required to make this happen or are there only a few that I should purchase?

The reassuring voice of experience.

Yes sir, he has rebuilt a few I'm sure.

All,
Slow going at the moment, it seems like I'm only getting a couple of small things done at a time each morning. Right now I think all that is left is the exhaust, driveshaft, and linkages. Lets hope for the best, then I'll shuffle Herb's Hearse back on the lift to tackle the brakes again. I have new wheel cylinders coming for the rear as those don't seem to be compressing, or is that expanding the rear shoes.

JB

 

[mybigwarwagon]

I have a special tool I use for transmission repairs.







My phone.

 

[dlcwent]

JB, I guess I am not going to be able to rebuild any more trannys as I apparently don't have the tools that it requires. Damn, and I thought I could

Seriously there may be a lot of special tools that make the job easier but as with anything, you can substitute with a little thought. For example, using the saddle from am exhaust clamp can become the tool you need to compress the clutch packs allowing you to release the lock rings. I've had to build my own tool for a job more than once over the years. When I did that Jetaway ****** last summer I had to make another special tool to get the job done. And I'll probably never use it again (unless someone else has one that needs an overhaul)

The manuals are great for reference, but not always entirely accurate on every step. I remember years ago I had to replace a heater core in a BMW and the manual made it look real easy. The only step they left out was the one that required removing the dash board.

 

[jbmatth]

I have a special tool I use for transmission repairs.




My phone.

War Wagon,
This is the way I would usually attack a transmission rebuild but feel like I need to try and see where I am when the dust settles on this one.

JB, I guess I am not going to be able to rebuild any more trannys as I apparently don't have the tools that it requires. Damn, and I thought I could

Seriously there may be a lot of special tools that make the job easier but as with anything, you can substitute with a little thought. For example, using the saddle from am exhaust clamp can become the tool you need to compress the clutch packs allowing you to release the lock rings. I've had to build my own tool for a job more than once over the years. When I did that Jetaway ****** last summer I had to make another special tool to get the job done. And I'll probably never use it again (unless someone else has one that needs an overhaul)

The manuals are great for reference, but not always entirely accurate on every step. I remember years ago I had to replace a heater core in a BMW and the manual made it look real easy. The only step they left out was the one that required removing the dash board.

DLC,
I had to laugh at that first statement, I just didn't know what is required and what can be done with just a little thought and substitution. I have the trans back into my FIL's truck now and am ready to run it up and get it moved out of The Warthog Hidey Hole. I was gone most of the weekend and then was only able to get a few hours in yesterday. I also installed a frame mounted receiver hitch for him. Now that I am clean I'll get in and run in through the gears and continue to check fluid levels. Also I received the last of the parts to get back on Herb's Hearse, hopefully I don't need anything else to get it back on the road.

Keeping my fingers crossed,
JB

 

[oldironfarmer]

Looking good, JB!

 

[jbmatth]

Thanks Andy, but what looks good I'm up to my usual antics of not posting photos again.

All,
I took my FIL's truck out for a spin today before work and I think it is going to work out just fine. I have to make one little adjustment on the shift linkage and it'll be ready to go back to him. What is the record for the longest ever trans swap?
JB

 

[OutlawDrifter]

JB, the ****** went out in my DD pickup Saturday. I can almost guarantee my swap will take longer. My 24x30 is full of stuff to go into the 36x40 that isn't quite done! This will be interesting.

 

[jbmatth]

Outlaw, Sorry to hear about your DD trans issues, and good luck with the swap. Trans work is not my favorite mostly because of the trans fluid, and always seems to take longer than I expect. However, when the trans went out in my cobra it only took about three house to go from driving it into the house to pulling it back out. Of course that was a manual and the 3rd time I'd done that in 3 days so I'm sure that helped.
JB

 

[-Brent-]

So it looks like I'm doing an oil change now too.

Haha, I chuckled more than I should have at this comment. I have had a stubborn one like it, also. Super frustrating.

Also, your pic-to-post ratio is a little light. On behalf of your faithful followers I'd recommend you get to work on that. We need to see what's going on over there.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

JB, it's an excuse to tear the whole thing down and build a better drivetrain. Maybe hydroboost brakes while I'm at it, and a heavier rear...Haha, that's how it always starts, sometimes I wish I could just do simple!

 

[jbmatth]

Haha, I chuckled more than I should have at this comment. I have had a stubborn one like it, also. Super frustrating.

Also, your pic-to-post ratio is a little light. On behalf of your faithful followers I'd recommend you get to work on that. We need to see what's going on over there.

Brent,
I had a good laugh at it too after the fact. Also more pictures are just around the corner so don't loose too much sleep waiting on more.

JB, it's an excuse to tear the whole thing down and build a better drivetrain. Maybe hydroboost brakes while I'm at it, and a heavier rear...Haha, that's how it always starts, sometimes I wish I could just do simple!

Outlaw,
I understand, I never want to go back stock, but my bank account usually thinks differently. Like my truck, if I ever have to work on the turbo it isn't that much more to get an upgraded stock turbo over a rebuilt one, then it isn't that much more to get an aftermarket one that is much better, of course I could always get a big enough one that will support twins for down the road. Then that leads to bigger injectors, head studs, bigger injection pump, and ... Okay back to reality I just hope I don't have problems with the turbo anytime soon.


All,

I finely was able to finish my FIL's transmission swap last night, yesterday morning when I went for a test drive it wouldn't start in park and didn't want to shift until 3,000 RPM! I talked to him and said it would be finished yesterday evening and to plan to come pick it up, he replied with "Don't drive it very far on the gravel because it doesn't have an air filter." WHAT!!!, oh well I'll pick another up on the way home. Swapped it out first thing then tackled the starting issue, it was a simple adjustment of the shift rod, the RPM issue was more complicated. The kickdown lever from the '94 transmission was different than the one on my FIL's '93. See the bottom left of the image for one similar:

The little ball on one was up and the other was down, also the D was angled different on one than the other. That led me to no choice but to cut, bend, and weld on his original. I didn't know which way for certain to move it so I went the direction to match the one on the '94 trans. That was wrong, it now shifted at 4,000 RPM. Lifted it back up, took it back out, cut it back apart, and then welded it the other direction. All fixed that time and ready to move out of the shop after two weeks of work:
View media item 69240
And as you can see it was very messy from all of the work. Now time to dig out Herb's Hearse and get back to it:
View media item 69241
I cleaned up around the lift and was ready to attack, picked it up, clamped the rear brake hose and proceeded to remove the old wheel cylinders. I think I found out why they weren't working all that well:
View media item 69242
Replaced with new parts, adjusted the preload (?) on the shoes and it is ready to bleed one last time, well hopefully one last time. After that it'll be road ready!!!

JB

 

[jbmatth]

I had Herb's Hearse in what I believed to be driveable condition so I did the dead car shuffle to move everything out of the way so I could pull it out and give it a bath before Herb came by for a visit to take it for a spin. Ready for a bath:
View media item 69439
A much needed bath:
View media item 69440
It made the 3 mile drive to the gas station with little fuss:
View media item 69441
It ran smooth and shifted fine for a car that hadn't run in many years. We had a few odd stares at the filling station and one fun little conversation with someone passing by. We started heading back to The W.H.H.H. when things got interesting, it died and would backfire when we tried to restart it. I had to do the walk of shame 2 miles home to get my truck to tow it back. Well I at least had my running cloths on and it was no time at all it was back home.

It turns out the distributor had spun around, it was as tight as I could get it but still spun. After resetting the timing it would still spin. I pulled the distributer out and it was easy enough to spin so I focused on the mount. I replaced the flat head screw with a bolt and think that took care of the problem. (Pictures to come)

I also noticed a small brake fluid leak, I'm still fighting that and will hopefully have it solved in short order but I'm tired of brake lines let me tell you what! I managed to do a few other small things this weekend like clean a little around the shop, re-install the rear sway bar on the Lemon 3 months after receiving the new end links, mowed 4.5 acres that is now my yard , and some other odds and ends. If all goes well I'll have the last of the punch list knocked out on Herb's Hearse for a safe return trip next weekend.

JB

 

[BUGTHUG]

Its unusual to say a hearse is cool...... but I think its cool! After bringing it back from the dead, it was fun to see people's reaction at the gas station. They weren't sure to look or look away! Defiantly fun while it lasted.

 

[-Brent-]

Nice to see the hearse out and running.

 

[jbmatth]

Its unusual to say a hearse is cool...... but I think its cool! After bringing it back from the dead, it was fun to see people's reaction at the gas station. They weren't sure to look or look away! Defiantly fun while it lasted.

We are getting closer and closer as time passes, like I always say keep moving forward.

Nice to see the hearse out and running.

It was really neat to get to ride in it, I've driven a gated 3 on the tree before but this one not being gated I was just guessing and had no chance at being able to get it up to cruising speeds. Herb on the other hand just spun it up and away we went.
JB

 

[OutlawDrifter]

The last bit of a project always seems to take the longest! Nice to see it in some day light and rolling under its own power.

 

[oldironfarmer]

No gates on the shifter? A pre-gate design or missing parts?

Hearse looks great, and thanks for re-hearsing the story of your first trip. Coming from you it's not hearsay.

 

[jbmatth]

The last bit of a project always seems to take the longest! Nice to see it in some day light and rolling under its own power.

Outlaw,
I did quite a bit of work on and off on the Hearse from December of '15 to October of '16 but didn't really start hitting it hard until November of '16. It feels like I have been fighting the brakes for 3 months now and from the looks of the date stamps on my photos that is about right. I will win, I will prevail, I will run to the corner of The W.H.H.H. sucking my thumb and crying.

No gates on the shifter? A pre-gate design or missing parts?

Hearse looks great, and thanks for re-hearsing the story of your first trip. Coming from you it's not hearsay.

Andy,
Herb can correct me if I'm wrong, but I certainly couldn't feel any gates, of course it is difficult to know what a car should feel like that is 38 years my senior. I don't believe it is missing anything, at least I can't see it if it isn't there. Yes before washing Herb's Hearse I was certainly coffin from all of the dust, now the tires are white as a ghost.

I managed to adjust the clutch linkage this morning, Herb was concerned the clutch may have been going out because the catch point was so far out. Turns out it simply wasn't adjusted properly when I installed the new master cylinder. I also worked on the brake lines some more taking the line from the master cylinder to the booster back out to reseal the NPT fittings. I'm still in the process of trying to figure out why the brake lines keep leaking at the residual pressure valve. I used PTFE (Teflon) tape and that seemed to have not been the correct choice. Word to the wise, even if it is good against gasoline, hydroflouric acid, and many other chemicals, it doesn't seam to work well with brake fluid.

Lastly I managed to grab a very bad photo of the distributor hold down clamp:

The arrow points to the mark I made for a base timing set. I also set the engine at TDC (Top Dead Center), aligned the #1 plug wire with the rotor and marked everything around the cap to make it easier if I have to do all of this again. Eventually I'll throw a timing light on it.

That is all for now, have a good one all,
JB

 

[oldironfarmer]

Great shot! I'm thinking the copper sleeve will prevent any timing from leaking out of the connection. Is the vacuum advance working? It does make a big difference in performance. You should see the whole distributor rotate when you snap open the throttle and lose vacuum. If the bolt does not hold it secure, you might try a beer can shim around the distributor body to allow the vacuum advance to clamp to it more easily. My show truck still clamps tightly with the fillister head screw.

 

[jbmatth]

Great shot! I'm thinking the copper sleeve will prevent any timing from leaking out of the connection. Is the vacuum advance working? It does make a big difference in performance. You should see the whole distributor rotate when you snap open the throttle and lose vacuum. If the bolt does not hold it secure, you might try a beer can shim around the distributor body to allow the vacuum advance to clamp to it more easily. My show truck still clamps tightly with the fillister head screw.

You got me there Andy, I should have specified the reasoning behind the copper tubing. The flat head screw was round obviously, when a bolt replaces it the hex wouldn't turn because it is then captured. I didn't have any washers small enough to space it out more from the distributor clamp. The copper was floating around on my bench and worked perfectly with just the slightest bit of drill work. Now where would I find some of these beer can shims you speak of.

Also yes the vacuum advance does work still and seems to do a good job of helping it stay right where it needs to be timing wise.
JB

 

[mybigwarwagon]

Great shot! I'm thinking the copper sleeve will prevent any timing from leaking out of the connection.

Those timing leaks can be dangerous.

 

[jbmatth]

War Wagon,
The other day at work we were discussing which ASME codes pertain to different piping system and one of the codes was for power piping and specifically boiler piping that we deal with. However, my first thought when I heard power piping was electrical piping. LOL
JB

 

[jp828108]

Awesome updates. Glad to see the hearse is moving under it's own power. Some major accomplishments these last couple weeks.

 

[oldironfarmer]

War Wagon,
The other day at work we were discussing which ASME codes pertain to different piping system and one of the codes was for power piping and specifically boiler piping that we deal with. However, my first thought when I heard power piping was electrical piping. LOL
JB

You mean there's more than one ASME Code?

Interesting that you are using B31.1 in the refinery. We generally used ASME Section I for fired boilers and B31.3 for the steam away from boilers. I used B31.1 in steam plants for TVA. The basis I believe was that the low pressure steam (including 600#) was service steam and no really big steam loads like a generation turbine. Age old discussion, maybe the things are different now

 

[jbmatth]

Awesome updates. Glad to see the hearse is moving under it's own power. Some major accomplishments these last couple weeks.

I have been quite pleased with how Herb's Hearse is coming along. I was a nervous wreck during the test drive but for the most part everything worked as it should.

You mean there's more than one ASME Code?

Interesting that you are using B31.1 in the refinery. We generally used ASME Section I for fired boilers and B31.3 for the steam away from boilers. I used B31.1 in steam plants for TVA. The basis I believe was that the low pressure steam (including 600#) was service steam and no really big steam loads like a generation turbine. Age old discussion, maybe the things are different now

Andy,
We were discussing the different sections of B31, we only have a few small spools of pipe that are B31.1 (Power Piping). The balance would fall under B31.3 (Process Piping) and a small amount of B-31.4 (Pipeline Transportation Systems for Liquid Hydrocarbons and Other Liquids). Lots of codes and specs to keep track of that is for certain.

All,
I now have the brakes back into operating state so all that is left is a transmission seal that will be here Saturday then a fluid change for the trans and rear and it'll be ready to go home. Maybe I should clean my shop out while it is mostly empty. I also need to build a bed for my daughter like I've been saying I will for over a year now. She is just about too big for her toddler bed, I'm sure I can come up with some cool ideas. She didn't want me to make one from an old truck bed sadly but she did say she either wanted a princess carrage bed or a Jeep bed. I know which way I will lean, I may even have to add some LED light strips.

JB

 

[oldironfarmer]

Of course B31.4 and B31.8 were our bread and butter in the pipeline industry. That's even how I got to Australia: consulting with the NSW Bureau of Mines on their new gas pipeline code in 1978 or 79.

Beware of "cleaning up your shop" it can lead to all sorts of unintended consequences.

Sounds like you're making great progress across the board!

And you first priority: make the bed!

 

[jbmatth]

Of course B31.4 and B31.8 were our bread and butter in the pipeline industry. That's even how I got to Australia: consulting with the NSW Bureau of Mines on their new gas pipeline code in 1978 or 79.

Beware of "cleaning up your shop" it can lead to all sorts of unintended consequences.

Sounds like you're making great progress across the board!

And you first priority: make the bed!

Make the bed is very high on the list, I plan to consult with her on the build then do most of the cutting and fitment while she sleeps then have her help with finishing and assembly. Oh cleaning my shop, luckily I don't have enough scratch at the moment to add to the shop, or build a new one...yet.
JB

 

[dlcwent]

Looking forward to your "bed build" JB. I hope you remember to take a few pictures throughout the process.

 

[jbmatth]

DLC,
I'll certainly take some photos of the bed, I have been having a tough time with that lately. I think part of it is most of the stuff I've been doing is just little odds and ends here and there and not really picture worthy. I do have a few for today though, stay tuned.
JB

 

[jbmatth]

All,
I am actually on the last "job" of Herb's Hearse right now, at least that is what I think anyway. The transmission output shaft seal had been leaking for a VERY long time and coated everything under the back of the car with a greasy grimey mess. Here is a photo of the torque tube where it connect to the back half of the torque tube:
View media item 69657
I spent hours and hours scraping stuff off and cleaning this part up, I didn't want to use any solvents or blast it as the actual shaft didn't want to come out, here is the mess and you can slightly see the cleaned shaft in the background:
View media item 69658
I used an entire roll of paper towels cleaning the grease and stuff off of everything. This was the thickest "oil" I've ever seen, it definetally needed changed, as it didn't run out so much as ooze out in a tar meets coagulated milk sort of way. I will say that is much nicer to see rather than having water run out. Here is another photo of the mess after scraping the cross member off:
View media item 69659
In the background of this photo you can see a flange and ball thing, this is the part that bolts to the carrier to the left of the photo. I didn't realize it when I ordered the seal kit but I actually needed two seal kits. When they stretched the '48 Chevy to make it a hearse they just added a straight section in right here and another U-joint and ball and socket seal. No one around town had one so I put another order in on Ebay. I'll get some overall shots showing how this all goes together this week.

On another note the Green Dragon never ceases to amaze me, I filled up yesterday and that tank averaged 48.4 mpg! Once it warms up a little more I think I can tease 50 out of it. Saving fuel on that car so I can burn it in my cobra this summer for the Hot Rod Power Tour!
JB

 

[oldironfarmer]

Great job on the torque tube. The big ball has a felt seal. Was it leaking at the ball or the slide? Old axle grease does get sticky and stubborn. Excellent decision to not blast it and get grit where you can't get it out.

My 48 3/4 ton has a torque tube but only back to the carrier bearing, all factory, but it makes no sense to me. The purpose of the torque tube was to carry the rear end torque and avoid spring wrap. The truck has a conventional carrier bearing and rear drive shaft with open u-joints. Apparently the short torque tube was used to avoid modifying the transmission to an open u-joint. It is very interesting to me to see the intermediate ball socket not attached to a transmission on the hearse.

48 mpg is impressive What is your best three in a row average? (evens out inconsistent fillups)

 

[jbmatth]

Great job on the torque tube. The big ball has a felt seal. Was it leaking at the ball or the slide? Old axle grease does get sticky and stubborn. Excellent decision to not blast it and get grit where you can't get it out.

My 48 3/4 ton has a torque tube but only back to the carrier bearing, all factory, but it makes no sense to me. The purpose of the torque tube was to carry the rear end torque and avoid spring wrap. The truck has a conventional carrier bearing and rear drive shaft with open u-joints. Apparently the short torque tube was used to avoid modifying the transmission to an open u-joint. It is very interesting to me to see the intermediate ball socket not attached to a transmission on the hearse.

48 mpg is impressive What is your best three in a row average? (evens out inconsistent fillups)

Andy,
The old seal was felt but the new seal I ordered is rubber, from what I could tell it was leaking from everywhere. That is interesting on the half and half torque tube, I'll get photos of the one on the Herb's Hearse once I get it all back together.

I am glad I have this all stored in a spreadsheet, I did a 3 tank rolling average and 4 tanks ago I hit 46.6308, I typically keep a 10 tank rolling average and currently it is at 45.9038. Since I've done a few little aero things like sealing up gaps, new plugs and wire, removing the PS and AC, and cleaning some parts with Seafoam my MPG's have jumped up around 3-4 averaging across the board.

All,
Another note while I'm thinking about it from blasting the cross member. With all of the reserve capacity I have I can blast for about 5 minutes before Salt kicks on, and even blasting non-stop it will eventually catch-up and turn off but takes about another 5 minutes. Thus far pepper hasn't had to run to assist salt.

JB

 

[oldironfarmer]

Not surprising you're using a spreadsheet to track fuel economy. Are you making notes as to special conditions which would affect mileage?

Sealing up aerodynamic gaps, good idea! Do you think I'd get better fuel economy with my show truck if I fixed that dang starter boot?

The original felt worked amazingly well on the old Chevys.