Above 1200 Sq/FT The Warthog Hidey Hole

[OutlawDrifter]

Do you have a solution for the fuel pump? The Vortec 5.7l fuel pump is generally a good solution, and typically a direct swap. If you're going external pump, that would explain the not wanting to remove the bed.

 

[jbmatth]

Do you have a solution for the fuel pump? The Vortec 5.7l fuel pump is generally a good solution, and typically a direct swap. If you're going external pump, that would explain the not wanting to remove the bed.

While doing the research on this swap I read multiple places the stock 2.2L pump puts out the correct pressure and has enough flow as well. One of the guys has been driving his at 491 RWHP for a few years with the stock flex fuel pump just as mine is. So that is my plan for right now. I'm using a standard fuel filter feeding the LQ4 return style fuel rails then return to the factory return line.
I hope this works because I've already bought all of the parts.

JB

 

[oldironfarmer]

If you go to build jack stands don't forget B7 studs. They are ridiculously cheap and of course high quality and make great jack threads. Of course your scrap yard probably has them.

 

[Unruh]

I’m only on page 37, but I’m loving this. I grew up in a small town in Montana and we had a ton of Quonsets in the area. I don’t remember any of the farmers in the area using them for anything other than storage. I’ve been looking forward to each page and reading about the next project. You write a great story!

 

[OutlawDrifter]

While doing the research on this swap I read multiple places the stock 2.2L pump puts out the correct pressure and has enough flow as well. One of the guys has been driving his at 491 RWHP for a few years with the stock flex fuel pump just as mine is. So that is my plan for right now. I'm using a standard fuel filter feeding the LQ4 return style fuel rails then return to the factory return line.
I hope this works because I've already bought all of the parts.

JB

I'm not up to snuff on the S10 pumps, but being flex fuel, it probably has the capacity!

 

[jbmatth]

If you go to build jack stands don't forget B7 studs. They are ridiculously cheap and of course high quality and make great jack threads. Of course your scrap yard probably has them.

Andy, I had never thought about using B7 studs for the screw, there are tons of them at the scrap yard to choose from. If I could be there at the right time I might be able to snag some of the 3" diameter studs I had installed last year that will come off soon. Just for others that may find it interesting the nuts on them were torqued to 10,660 Ft.-lbs. (14,453 NM) They might be a little overkill for jack stands though.

I’m only on page 37, but I’m loving this. I grew up in a small town in Montana and we had a ton of Quonsets in the area. I don’t remember any of the farmers in the area using them for anything other than storage. I’ve been looking forward to each page and reading about the next project. You write a great story!

Unruh, first of all I like your profile picture and secondly thank you very much for trying to read through this entire thread. There are a lot of Quonsets in this area as well and almost all of them are for storage more than anything. The newer giant rib style tends to be what people use for shops now around here. Good luck getting through the thread and I wish you luck.

I'm not up to snuff on the S10 pumps, but being flex fuel, it probably has the capacity!

Outlaw, I hope so too, and really hope I haven't been misinformed. If you see me missing something please speak up, I've tried to research as much as possible but I know there is still plenty I don't know I don't know about LS swaps.


All,
This morning I pulled the engine out of the frame, removed the engine mounts and trans cross member, I tried to install the new engine mounts but the holes they line up with aren't threaded and there is no room to get to them from the back side for nuts. Hmm I have to think about that one a bit more.

Have a good weekend,
JB

 

[rixtrix1]

Andy, I had never thought about using B7 studs for the screw, there are tons of them at the scrap yard to choose from. If I could be there at the right time I might be able to snag some of the 3" diameter studs I had installed last year that will come off soon. Just for others that may find it interesting the nuts on them were torqued to 10,660 Ft.-lbs. (14,453 NM) They might be a little overkill for jack stands though.



Unruh, first of all I like your profile picture and secondly thank you very much for trying to read through this entire thread. There are a lot of Quonsets in this area as well and almost all of them are for storage more than anything. The newer giant rib style tends to be what people use for shops now around here. Good luck getting through the thread and I wish you luck.


Outlaw, I hope so too, and really hope I haven't been misinformed. If you see me missing something please speak up, I've tried to research as much as possible but I know there is still plenty I don't know I don't know about LS swaps.


All,
This morning I pulled the engine out of the frame, removed the engine mounts and trans cross member, I tried to install the new engine mounts but the holes they line up with aren't threaded and there is no room to get to them from the back side for nuts. Hmm I have to think about that one a bit more.

Have a good weekend,
JB

jb, I pull the bed on S10's and Ranger pickups all the time to access fuel pumps and senders. 6-8 bolts, 2 elect connections and 3 screws at the filler neck lets you lift it up and away. Front of the box can rest on the tire and rear of the wheel opening on the bumper. One can also tilt it up and brace it securely as long as the rear doesn't get scratched on the bumper. Boxes aren't heavy. Motor mounts are next to impossible( I just put a torque ******** my truck[lazy!]). Great projects!

Sent from my SM-J320V using Tapatalk

 

[jbmatth]

jb, I pull the bed on S10's and Ranger pickups all the time to access fuel pumps and senders. 6-8 bolts, 2 elect connections and 3 screws at the filler neck lets you lift it up and away. Front of the box can rest on the tire and rear of the wheel opening on the bumper. One can also tilt it up and brace it securely as long as the rear doesn't get scratched on the bumper. Boxes aren't heavy. Motor mounts are next to impossible( I just put a torque ******** my truck[lazy!]). Great projects!

Sent from my SM-J320V using Tapatalk

Rix, thanks for the advise, I have pulled the bed on a 1st gen S10 I had in high school but haven't had to pull a bed since. Hopefully that trend continues and I don't have to pull this one either but time will tell I'm sure.


All,
I managed to get a few things accomplished this weekend, I swapped the trans output shaft seal, then separated the engine and trans. That is when the fun began. When removing the exhaust manifolds I broke one of the bolts on the passenger side, there was still plenty of stud sticking out of the head so I wasn't too worried. When I got to the driver side I found 2 bolts that were already broken flush with the block.

Welded a nut onto the one and out it came, then proceeded to weld a dot on the end of a stud, then another etc. until it was long enough to grab a turn out, first one was easy enough. The second one took a few more tires:
View media item 80338
What finely got it was I drilled it mostly out as big as I dared go, welded the hole mostly full, then kept welding until I had something to grab onto. I immediately sprayed the stud with penetrating oil and it turned right out like it hadn't been fighting me for the last hour. Woo Hoo another victory!

I next swapped out the water pump, windage tray, oil pickup, and oil pan, installed the new motor mounts and headers just for giggles:
View media item 80339
That is about where I'm at now, still waiting on the cross member and a few other odds and ends I recently decided to replace before I can do much more.

JB

 

[realvc]

Hey JB
Great progress on your S10 LS build.

Last week I cut the bed off just a head of the tail lights with tail gate of my 1982 Scottsdale donor truck. I thought about your truck bed posts on here while I was cutting on it.

My grandson-in-law wants it make a changing shelf for their third child and first son due in July. When a changing shelf is no longer needed he plans to build a bench out of it for his shop.
I'll be delivering it to them in Richmond, Texas later this month.

Vince

 

[jbmatth]

Thank you Vince, and the changing table sounds like a really cool project. Hopefully it works out for you and them.
JB

 

[oldironfarmer]

Glad to see you're a stud welder! Great progress

Headers look nice, but will they last as long as manifolds? I guess I just like cast iron

Do the motor mount bolts you are talking about for tension or shear? If they're for shear you can turn a nut down thin and weld a little handle in it to get it into a tight space. You know the first three threads hold most of the lod, so go to fine thread and you only need 1/8".

Don't know about the changing table, that sounds like crappy duty.

 

[jbmatth]

Glad to see you're a stud welder! Great progress

Headers look nice, but will they last as long as manifolds? I guess I just like cast iron

Do the motor mount bolts you are talking about for tension or shear? If they're for shear you can turn a nut down thin and weld a little handle in it to get it into a tight space. You know the first three threads hold most of the lod, so go to fine thread and you only need 1/8".

Don't know about the changing table, that sounds like crappy duty.

I hadn't thought of it like that before Andy, but I guess I am a stud welder now, I'll mention that to my wife tonight to see what she says. I'm sure manifolds will last a lot longer, but they simply wouldn't fit, the truck manifolds would hit the steering shaft and upper control arms. These were designed for the truck so hopefully they don't need much messaging, but I won't hold my breath.

They are mostly shear and I think I only have about 5 threads, good news is I have tons of room to work on them now. When I installed mine in the frame I had to tap 5 of the 6 holes that were already there and it bolted right in. I should have mentioned that earlier when I updated but completely forgot. As an aside your only the 2nd person I've heard from about the 3 thread thing. It has always made since to me and seems to hold up in practice but I surely do like more if possible because inevitably I'll strip a thread or two out eventually anyway.

JB

 

[fastjohnny]

I hadn't thought of it like that before Andy, but I guess I am a stud welder now, I'll mention that to my wife tonight to see what she says. I'm sure manifolds will last a lot longer, but they simply wouldn't fit, the truck manifolds would hit the steering shaft and upper control arms. These were designed for the truck so hopefully they don't need much messaging, but I won't hold my breath.

They are mostly shear and I think I only have about 5 threads, good news is I have tons of room to work on them now. When I installed mine in the frame I had to tap 5 of the 6 holes that were already there and it bolted right in. I should have mentioned that earlier when I updated but completely forgot. As an aside your only the 2nd person I've heard from about the 3 thread thing. It has always made since to me and seems to hold up in practice but I surely do like more if possible because inevitably I'll strip a thread or two out eventually anyway.

JB

Good job on those studs, I fought a broken glowplug in a 6.5 that ultimately broke free and spun out with a left handed bit. I heard the 3 thread deal from an old mechanical engineer years ago.

 

[jp828108]

As always the progress is looking good JB. Nice work.

 

[don long]

J B
I sure don't envy you doing that mech. work. I hate it with a passion.

I admiere you for being able to git "R" done

I had to weld bolts onto the flat head screws when working on the old english phone booth that sits out in the far corner of my yard still not finished (just partly torn down)

I just spent 2 days working on my 55 Chev convertable. I started it up the other day and found 2 major problems with it
1. NO BREAKS

2. column shifter was stuck between 2nd and 3rd.

That said. after 2 10 hour days of leaning over the fender and pulling out the steering column and replacing it and bleeding the brakes
THE DAMN CAR STILL HAS THE SAME PROBLEMS.

 

[oldironfarmer]

Interesting article from Fastenal on reusing bolts. It indicates up to 78% of the load may be on the first three threads. Point being if you are loading to 25% of capacity three or four threads work. But the whole one page article is worth reading.

Re-use of Fasteners

 

[jbmatth]

Good job on those studs, I fought a broken glowplug in a 6.5 that ultimately broke free and spun out with a left handed bit. I heard the 3 thread deal from an old mechanical engineer years ago.

Johnny,
I've been very fortunate thus far to have never had a broken glow plug (Knock on wood). I would hate to have to do this with an engine installed in a vehicle. Check out the article Andy posted below, I haven't read it yet, but look forward to seeing what it has to say.

As always the progress is looking good JB. Nice work.

Thank you JP, progress has slowed a bit lately, but should start to pick up with new arrivals soon.

J B
I sure don't envy you doing that mech. work. I hate it with a passion.

I admiere you for being able to git "R" done

I had to weld bolts onto the flat head screws when working on the old english phone booth that sits out in the far corner of my yard still not finished (just partly torn down)

I just spent 2 days working on my 55 Chev convertable. I started it up the other day and found 2 major problems with it
1. NO BREAKS

2. column shifter was stuck between 2nd and 3rd.

That said. after 2 10 hour days of leaning over the fender and pulling out the steering column and replacing it and bleeding the brakes
THE DAMN CAR STILL HAS THE SAME PROBLEMS.

Don,
As always it is nice to hear from you. I really do enjoy the mechanic side of things, I'll let you know about the body work and metal shaping when I get to the '57 though. Sorry to hear about your troubles on the 55, hopefully with a few more 10 hour days you won't still be in the same boat again. LOL

Interesting article from Fastenal on reusing bolts. It indicates up to 78% of the load may be on the first three threads. Point being if you are loading to 25% of capacity three or four threads work. But the whole one page article is worth reading.

Re-use of Fasteners

I'll have a look at it Andy, thanks for sharing, always interested to read new informative articles.

JB

 

[jbmatth]

All,
I don't recall if I mentioned it or not, but the transmission crossmember I ordered for Lil Blue finely arrived yesterday. The first one was lost in the mail, the box was found empty with nothing in it. I'm sure someone will buy it for scrap metal some day. I saw the box on the porch and know why it fell apart, it was junk cardboard and no packing material whatsoever. The box was torn to shreds but it was still in good usable shape even if a little scraped up.

I got it installed this morning and set the engine in:
View media item 80511
I can't say I'm too excited about the fit but will make it work. For as much trouble as this thing has been I'll just build my own next time, I'm not impressed.

The last major delivery I'm waiting on is the wiring harness.

JB

 

[Nlped]

The last major delivery I'm waiting on is the wiring harness.



JB

Who’s harness are you using?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jbmatth]

Nlped,
I decided to go with the CPW harness, it integrates everything from the old truck to the new engine so I'll have AC, cruise, and all the gauges work as they were intended. I need to get in touch with them today to find out if they have an estimated delivery date.
JB

 

[oldironfarmer]

I can't say I'm too excited about the fit but will make it work. For as much trouble as this thing has been I'll just build my own next time, I'm not impressed.

Now you're talking! It might be quicker, too.

 

[jbmatth]

It sure would have been quicker than waiting on it, but while I was waiting on it I did manage to get a few other things done. I always try to have enough ahead of me that I can stay busy for a week if I have to wait on any parts for it. I've figured out a few more parts I need to order this morning. I have the trans cross member final install complete, the headers are installed (only took a little grinder and hammer work), and I'm trying to figure out the power steering now (It will also take some grinder work).

JB

 

[OutlawDrifter]

It sure would have been quicker than waiting on it, but while I was waiting on it I did manage to get a few other things done. I always try to have enough ahead of me that I can stay busy for a week if I have to wait on any parts for it. I've figured out a few more parts I need to order this morning. I have the trans cross member final install complete, the headers are installed (only took a little grinder and hammer work), and I'm trying to figure out the power steering now (It will also take some grinder work).

JB

Is the pulley hitting the steering gear? If so, check out the Pontiac Montana PS pulley. (3.4l)

I'm running that unit on my Camaro, it also has 3 "access holes" in it. It's seen 7k rpm many times in my car.

 

[rmalkow2]

Nice progress so far on Little Blue. At this rate you'll be ready for a test drive when the snow finally stops.

 

[Duker]

JB, I finally got around to finishing your thread. I love the Warthog as I helped a a friend of mine Dave Salkowski back in the day on his ERA cobra and I fell in love with them.

I do have to say you are a gluten for puzzles with all of the projects including your latest S10!

I also didn’t realize I had been doing CAD all this time with my cardboard templates!

Loved the variety of what you have tackled and looking forward to seeing what else peaks your interest.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[jbmatth]

Is the pulley hitting the steering gear? If so, check out the Pontiac Montana PS pulley. (3.4l)

I'm running that unit on my Camaro, it also has 3 "access holes" in it. It's seen 7k rpm many times in my car.

That is great to hear Outlaw, that is Dorman part number 300-201, I do have a question though, do you have to shim the power steering pump to get the pulley to align? I had that pulley as well as 5 others on my "it may work" list but hadn't plunked down the money just yet. One other option would be to use 300-202 with is a metal version of the same pulley.

Nice progress so far on Little Blue. At this rate you'll be ready for a test drive when the snow finally stops.

Good news is we haven't gotten more than a dusting of snow this year at best, but it has been quite cold for this "southern" boy. Thanks for checking in.

JB, I finally got around to finishing your thread. I love the Warthog as I helped a a friend of mine Dave Salkowski back in the day on his ERA cobra and I fell in love with them.

I do have to say you are a gluten for puzzles with all of the projects including your latest S10!

I also didn’t realize I had been doing CAD all this time with my cardboard templates!

Loved the variety of what you have tackled and looking forward to seeing what else peaks your interest.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Duker,
Thanks for taking the time to read my whole thread, and keep up your CAD work. I'm a huge fan of the Warthog even if it doesn't get much love this time of year. I have so many parts laying around the shop now I can't keep up with them all. Once I get the Lil Blue Truck up and running it'll be time for a major cleanup for certain.

JB

 

[jbmatth]

I seem to be at a constant holding pattern anymore, I'm getting little things done but not too much progress that is photo worthy. I have the fuel system all plumbed with AN lines:

I have the AN parts on order to do the power steering high pressure lines, and plan to order all the parts for the trans cooler lines once I drop the body back on the truck. I heard from CPW the harness passed QA/QC last Wednesday and is being covered now, I hopefully will have it this week sometime as I don't want to drop the body on until I can hook it all up when things are much easier to reach.

Here is a photo of the passenger side header and the upper control arm "modifications":

Also I did a quick update video in case anyone is interested:
Lil Blue Truck Part 2 Video

JB

 

[jbmatth]

Another little update, I ordered all of the remaining parts that I can think I need right now, Wow this has gotten more out of hand than I expected. I have a bunch of AN fittings and hose coming this way for the trans cooler, the AC compressor, some exhaust pipe, the power steering pulley Outlaw recommended except in metal, and a few other odds and ends. I'll go hide in the corner and cry now.

JB

 

[jbmatth]

I do have a few updates, I'm not sure but I seem to have stalled out some, I'm staying busy but don't seem to make much photo worthy progress. Anyway I installed the power steering pump pulley and can confirm the 300-202 pulley does fit and lines up with the crank pulley. However I had to push it on farther than normal and also had to cut the end of the pump shaft a little shorter to be able to remove the pulley to install the braided stainless line I also made:
View media item 80962
I received the wiring harness and it is slick, so far no complaints and it has fit really well:
View media item 80961
I have waited to install the starter until I got the wiring harness in because the crank position sensor connection is behind it. Well then the starter wouldn't fit unless I pulled the engine up about 2". 4 hours and $165 later I had a new starter installed. I broke the original starter trying to install it, yes I'm an idiot don't judge me.

The only thing keeping me from dropping the body right now is the exhaust, it will be very difficult to install the exhaust once the body is installed so I decided to make it and install some V-band connections so I can remove it much easier if the need arises down the road. They should be delivered today if USPS wasn't closed. It is getting closer and I'm really getting excited to hear it running.

JB

 

[Bob Heine]

I broke the original starter trying to install it, yes I'm an idiot don't judge me.

The only thing keeping me from dropping the body right now is the exhaust, it will be very difficult to install the exhaust once the body is installed so I decided to make it and install some V-band connections so I can remove it much easier if the need arises down the road.

JB

JB, I won't judge you if you don't judge me.

Had you put a power steering fluid cooler in that braided line...

...and replaced the brake vacuum booster with a hydroboost...

...and more braided line to fill all the space around the power steering pump...

...you might be an idiot.

If you want to advance to a leadership role in the Idiots Club, you are going to need to step up your exhaust work. Doing it while the body is off is almost a disqualifier by itself but hopefully you can make the system as complicated as possible -- for no good reason. Start off with a bolt-on system.

Get rid of the two mufflers but save the tips. Get a single small dual-in/dual-out muffler and slap those tips on one end and a couple of v-bands on the other. Make your own header adapters from 3-inch u-bends, 2.5-inch adapters and more v-band clamps. Don't forget a pair of electric cutouts. Now that's what a post-graduate idiot does.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

JB, sorry I was away for awhile and missed your post. On my fbody setup it did not require any shimming or being pressed on further.

Bummer on the starter. I have broken the power lug a time or two. I generally pick up a used one from LKQ...they deliver, literally.

What are your plans for the exhaust? A single 3" system will flow every bit what you need.

 

[oldironfarmer]

Wow Bob!! You should have been an attorney. You certainly know how to present a convincing case. I'm impressed and am now firmly on your side.

 

[don long]

JB
As you know I hate mech work cause there is always 10 more things to do and no parts to do it with.
I must admit that you are helping me understand more and more

Thanks for the help lol

Don

 

[jbmatth]

Removed the photos for space saving, gotta ration those bits/bytes/bites (1's and 0's) or I'll go hungry.

JB, I won't judge you if you don't judge me.

Had you put a power steering fluid cooler in that braided line...

...and replaced the brake vacuum booster with a hydroboost...

...and more braided line to fill all the space around the power steering pump...

...you might be an idiot.

If you want to advance to a leadership role in the Idiots Club, you are going to need to step up your exhaust work. Doing it while the body is off is almost a disqualifier by itself but hopefully you can make the system as complicated as possible -- for no good reason. Start off with a bolt-on system.

Get rid of the two mufflers but save the tips. Get a single small dual-in/dual-out muffler and slap those tips on one end and a couple of v-bands on the other. Make your own header adapters from 3-inch u-bends, 2.5-inch adapters and more v-band clamps. Don't forget a pair of electric cutouts. Now that's what a post-graduate idiot does.

Bob,
You are awefully convincing, I do happen to have a couple of extra hydroboost systems, plenty of SS hose, but no more fittings. I plan to use the P.S. cooler from the 2500 and it attaches on the low pressure side of the pump, I guess just call me lazy, or cheap, that works too.

That exhaust system is a thing of beauty, and well over complicated compared to the kit you could have bolted in, I salute you!

JB, sorry I was away for awhile and missed your post. On my fbody setup it did not require any shimming or being pressed on further.

Bummer on the starter. I have broken the power lug a time or two. I generally pick up a used one from LKQ...they deliver, literally.

What are your plans for the exhaust? A single 3" system will flow every bit what you need.

Not a problem, I could find enough info online that made me believe it would work for me. Sadly even with the holes in the pulley I still can't get to the bolts to remove it with out pulling the pulley. It works now and there is no turning back.

I should have bought a used one, and actually have another still installed in a suburban I could have stolen, but then would have needed one for that engine eventually. At least this way I know I have a new one installed and won't spend a full day replacing it once everything is installed.

I'm running from the headers to 2.5" collectors, a section of pipe to go horizontal, V band, flex joint, straight pipe, flowmaster 10 series mufflers, then dumping it from there. I want to hear what the exhaust sounds like without a crossover, if I don't like it I can always add one later.

Wow Bob!! You should have been an attorney. You certainly know how to present a convincing case. I'm impressed and am now firmly on your side.

He does have a way of convincing doesn't he, I would have to agree, idiots do as an idiot does. That sounds like a Forest Gump line. (No offense intended Bob, I think most of us have been there before.)

JB
As you know I hate mech work cause there is always 10 more things to do and no parts to do it with.
I must admit that you are helping me understand more and more

Thanks for the help lol

Don

I'm just glad to help Don, I enjoy the challenge of finding something that will make stuff work together. At this point I think (famous last words) I have everything I need ordered to get the truck started. One big challenge I'm facing now is finding 1/4" diameter pop rivets to reinstall the side skirts, it shouldn't be this hard to find...

JB

 

[Bob Heine]

One big challenge I'm facing now is finding 1/4" diameter pop rivets to reinstall the side skirts, it shouldn't be this hard to find...

JB

JB, McMaster-Carr would be my second stop but mainly for stainless, copper, aluminum with steel pins or any other specialty pop rivets. My first stop would be Harbor Freight because that's where I found 1/4" diameter x 1/2" pop rivets.

https://www.harborfreight.com/100-piece-1-4-quarter-inch-aluminum-blind-rivet-set-67619.html

 

[jbmatth]

JB, McMaster-Carr would be my second stop but mainly for stainless, copper, aluminum with steel pins or any other specialty pop rivets. My first stop would be Harbor Freight because that's where I found 1/4" diameter x 1/2" pop rivets.

https://www.harborfreight.com/100-piece-1-4-quarter-inch-aluminum-blind-rivet-set-67619.html

Bob, You are the man, thank you. Sadly the closest HF is an hour away. I tried a different search term and they are all over the place now. It is crazy how much time I spent trying to find them last Friday on my phone to come up empty handed then boom there they are today. I have 100 on order now and they are coming from Florida, do you mind matching the free shipping and bringing them up?

JB

 

[Bob Heine]

Bob, You are the man, thank you. Sadly the closest HF is an hour away. I tried a different search term and they are all over the place now. It is crazy how much time I spent trying to find them last Friday on my phone to come up empty handed then boom there they are today. I have 100 on order now and they are coming from Florida, do you mind matching the free shipping and bringing them up?

JB

JB, happy to deliver for free. I assume you mean my time so throw in 100 gallons of gas for the Corvette and we have a deal. If I do the egg on the gas pedal thing that '87 gets real close to 30mpg. It's 1,500 miles so I should be there in two days (I don't drive at night).

 

[jbmatth]

JB, happy to deliver for free. I assume you mean my time so throw in 100 gallons of gas for the Corvette and we have a deal. If I do the egg on the gas pedal thing that '87 gets real close to 30mpg. It's 1,500 miles so I should be there in two days (I don't drive at night).

Bob,
Wow, 750 miles per day for 2 days in a row is no fun, I did 1,000 in two days this past weekend and didn't really enjoy it by the end. Of course I was in my '97 Saturn (I averaged 46.7 mpg for the trip, woo hoo) and not a 'Vette. If you make the trip this week don't forget your ice scraper.

JB

 

[Bob Heine]

If you make the trip this week don't forget your ice scraper.

JB

JB, what is this ice scraper of which you speak? Is this an Italian thing and do I need syrup?

Oh dear! I don't think I can make it -- I've forgotten how to put the top up.

 

[jbmatth]

The low is 22 tonight so the top might be a good idea, and we have been getting freezing rain off an on today. I'm sure if you dug deep enough you could find some ice scrapers stashed away somewhere, they make great non-marring gasket scrapers if you do manage to find some.

JB