oldironfarmer
Well-known member
Well?
Above 1200 Sq/FT The Warthog Hidey Hole
- Thread starter jbmatth
- Start date
Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
Thanks for the help Finallygotit, yes I did finely get it.Fingers crossed here!
It Lives<<-- That is a video
Woo Hoo, as it turns out I was right on the filter...after I was wrong.
It lives and runs great, I'm still working the fluid levels up slowly making sure I have everything tightened down but so far so good. I should get my last intake parts today will be able to drive it this weekend. I'm super stoked and can't wait to put some miles on it. I'm a big fan of the exhaust note, it doesn't come across real well on the video, but sounds pretty mean in real life especially when you push the loud pedal a bit. 
JB
PS Thank you everyone for the help and for following along, it really drives me to keep moving forward.
Last edited:
oldironfarmer
Well-known member
Congratulations, JB! 
OutlawDrifter
Well-known member
Outstanding!
realvc
Well-known member
Congrats. Sounds real good to me.
I look forward to your updates.
I'm making progress on my old truck but at a snails pace compared to you.
I look forward to your updates.
I'm making progress on my old truck but at a snails pace compared to you.
1/2 Cup
Member Emeritus
JB, Done well
rixtrix1
Well-known member
JB, I won't judge you if you don't judge me.
Get rid of the two mufflers but save the tips. Get a single small dual-in/dual-out muffler and slap those tips on one end and a couple of v-bands on the other. Make your own header adapters from 3-inch u-bends, 2.5-inch adapters and more v-band clamps. Don't forget a pair of electric cutouts. Now that's what a post-graduate idiot does.
Don't have to be so harsh. I think it looks fantastic!
Haha.
rixtrix1
Well-known member
JB, is your dime a true Xtreme? Looks to be in excellent shape. Impossible to find a nice one reasonably here, too many kids cutting them up to lay frame and catch on fire!
rmalkow2
Well-known member
Sounds like we need a baptismal burnout!
Looks & sounds great!!! Dude, you are a machine! I AM NOT going to go out to the shop before work! I get up at 4:30 now! I’ve been out in my “gonna-B-A-building” pulling wire for lights. I’ve got 14 days until the ErEcTIoN!!! [emoji51]
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Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
oldironfarmer
Well-known member
Aye!
Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Aye! (x2)
shortykorte
Well-known member
Aye x3
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1/2 Cup
Member Emeritus
Last edited:
Thanks Marc, it was a journey to say the least but I'm glad it is mostly done, now just to get some break in miles under the belt to make sure it'll be good for the long haul. I drove it to work this morning and it was kinda fun.
I killed myself on this one, I was all too often getting up at 2-3 am to get it done faster. I slept in today. Just keep plugging away and you'll have it on the road in no time.
Thanks 1/2, how is your car coming along?JB, Done well
It has been hacked a bit, it has aftermarket gauge faces that don't work so all I can see at night are the needles, it had an alarm on it, and there are lots of wires floating around from a past stereo installation that need to be removed to make way for the installation I'm doing. I was going to tackle that yesterday but broke both of my T-50 torx bits on the seat bolts. They were cheap but I have some Craftsman bits on order.
Pulling wire before the ErEcTIoN? You are the machine, that is nuts. If I didn't work out there in the morning I wouldn't ever get a chance and would probably still be installing lights.
As am I Dwight, I'm just happy it was something I could figure out on my own, I'd hate to have to take it to the GM dealer. LOL
Sounds like we need a baptismal burnout!
I second the motion! All in favor say aye!
Myself and Oscar both say AYE.....
LW
Endorsed
daring to be different.
Well how can I argue with 5 Ayes and an endorsement from 1/2 Cup. I'll try to get a video today after work, but if I break the axle I'm coming back for donations.
JB
I did a bit more work on the truck this weekend, and it is running great, I put about 100 miles or so on it and don't really have any complaints based on the swap. I have the speedo as accurate as I can, less than 1 mph off at any speed, the trans now shifts at WOT and near WOT BEFORE redline. That was an unforeseen aspect of the swap I didn't think about. Once the speedometer was right I assumed the shifting would follow suite. I had to adjust the trans tables but it now shifts fine. I need to get different gears though, I'm running 2,600 rpm on the highway at 75. Here is an engine shot before I cleaned it up some:
View media item 81375
Have a good one all,
JB
View media item 81375
Have a good one all,
JB
OutlawDrifter
Well-known member
JB, if you grenade the 7.5" ring gear, find a rear out of a ZR2, that's what I have in my '49. They are an 8.5" ring gear and have disc brakes to boot. Only caveat is they are wider than a standard 2WD axle. I'll bet that thing is a rocket and hard on tires!
Outlaw,
I have the axle on my wish list the next time I make a trip to a pick-n-pull yard. I really want to find one with 3.73's or a 3.42 to help drop my cruising RPM's some. I didn't realize the ZR2's had the discs though, that is good to hear and will save time/money later on. It isn't as fast as it could be but is still a plenty strong runner.
Sounds like I need to see if I can get it to spin out later today for the video I'm being pressured into.
One of my daughters had her soccer practice rescheduled for today so I get to take her in that truck, it is just a bit ridiculous for a soccer mom ride, but will work I guess.
JB
I have the axle on my wish list the next time I make a trip to a pick-n-pull yard. I really want to find one with 3.73's or a 3.42 to help drop my cruising RPM's some. I didn't realize the ZR2's had the discs though, that is good to hear and will save time/money later on. It isn't as fast as it could be but is still a plenty strong runner.
Sounds like I need to see if I can get it to spin out later today for the video I'm being pressured into.
One of my daughters had her soccer practice rescheduled for today so I get to take her in that truck, it is just a bit ridiculous for a soccer mom ride, but will work I guess.
JB
Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Since when is it "a bit ridiculous"? Seriously??
This coming from a guy that owns a Cobra??
JB, we need to have a serious chat!
Since when is it "a bit ridiculous"? Seriously??
This coming from a guy that owns a Cobra??
JB, we need to have a serious chat!
Hahaha, I hadn't really thought about it like that but you do have a very good point.
I had a good time driving it yesterday and the oldest daughter liked riding in it, we got a little carried away at one point.
But no videos because she isn't great with the camera yet. I've decided to do a little more work on it before I do much more driving with it, I'm replacing all of the square coils with the round coils to give a little more room, and will replace the power steering pump because mine is a whining little brat right now.
Huh just when I thought this project was done I have a list of parts I want to replace now...
JB
I got lights... building is a MESS, but I’m making ‘head’way for the ErEcTIoN.
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Attachments
realvc
Well-known member
My guess, he is talking about erecting a lift of some kind.
I sure hope that is what it is, if it is the other type commonly refereed to on the inter-webs please don't share any photos.
All,
I forgot to mention earlier, but I really missed out when I had the body off to do some work. I decided to replace the coil packs on Lil' Blue changing them from the square style to the round style. (No photo sorry I fail again.) It took over an hour to replace them, probably half of that time was spent on 3 bolts on the drivers side, they couldn't be reached with any of the ratchet and socket combo's I have and I could only get 1/2 to 1 flat with a box end at an odd angle ugh. All in now and I have plenty of room between the coils and obstructions like the AC box and break booster. More parts are removed now to install the new/used power steering pump.
JB
All,
I forgot to mention earlier, but I really missed out when I had the body off to do some work. I decided to replace the coil packs on Lil' Blue changing them from the square style to the round style. (No photo sorry I fail again.) It took over an hour to replace them, probably half of that time was spent on 3 bolts on the drivers side, they couldn't be reached with any of the ratchet and socket combo's I have and I could only get 1/2 to 1 flat with a box end at an odd angle ugh. All in now and I have plenty of room between the coils and obstructions like the AC box and break booster. More parts are removed now to install the new/used power steering pump.
JB
I hate to but I have to ask, what is the ErEcTIoN you speak of, to me it looks like you have a building?By the way I really like those lights, and they seem to give off a good amount of light.
JB
To clarify...
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Great, I didn't want to get fired for looking at my own thread, my memory is a little sloggy at times.
JB
[emoji23] wait until you get up here to my age! It gets worse.
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mybigwarwagon
Well-known member
The baby truck turned out good.
I keep hearing people tell me that, but can't remember who has been telling me.
Thanks War Wagon, it was a blast to drive, and will be again shortly.
All,
I received the AC line from CPW yesterday and...it is the same as the one I already had.
One of my co-workers has a PS pump he plans to give me but didn't remember to bring it yesterday. I did get the T-50 sockets in order to remove the seats and wow those bolts were stuborn, but the finely broke loose and I can finish running the wiring for the stereo, at least something is going smooth today. 
Also I posted the donor white truck on CL yesterday morning and someone came to pick it up yesterday afternoon, score! I'm now down to 6 vehicles I think and the only one that doesn't run is Project Pinkie Pi. At least for now.
JB
Just in case anyone is interested I typed this up for the other thread I have on the S10, hopefully someone will find this useful, if you read this entire reply and aren't doing something similar you are insane, if I were you I'd glaze over it. ...
So here is the total and complete parts breakdown, this is going to take me a while.
Notes, this list is for installing a LQ4 and 4L80E from a 2002 Silverado 2500 into a 2001 S10 with a 2.2 using the truck accessories, intake, and fuel rail. There are some misc. bolts, clips, hose clamps etc. that you will need I didn’t list but had laying around. I recommend when you go to a junk yard to grab a pocket/bucket full of this stuff and take it with you, dirt cheap compared to having to buy new all the time.
Truck- $500
Bought off of my brother with a blown engine
Donor Truck- $2,300
CL purchase, pulled engine, trans, and driveshaft sold for $600
Tag, Title, License-$139.25
Wiring Harness-$830
Purchased from CPW, 9 week delivery, but well worth it for me, could be done cheaper though.
Computer Tuning-$free
I purchased HP Tuners and used 2 of their free credits, but if I had to buy them it would have been $100, or CPW would tune it for gears, and tire size as well as turn off all unnecessary stuff for $175, that may have been the better option
Engine Mounts, Shorty Headers, and Oil Pan-$499.5
CPW, ordered as a package and it was the cheapest way I could find to get the headers and oil pan with windage tray and dip stick as well as new bolts. The headers fit great but needed some hammer work around the passenger upper control arm. Alternatively you could use a tubular upper control arm and not beat up your new headers.
Oil Filter-$5
I think it was Oreillys part number PF48
Round Coil Packs-$100
I had a complete set from another engine, or you could get lucky and your engine already have them, but they can be had for $100 on EBay, PN 19005218.
AC Relocation Brackets-$227
Purchased from CPW, if I had a tig welded I would get it perfectly aligned and tack some of this together so it is easier to remove if ever needed. Keep the instructions close by.
Belt Tensioner-$25.51
This is needed only when using the AC Relocation brackets purchased from CPW, it can be omitted if using stock AC, or no AC. PN 12560344
AC lines -$225
Also a CPW purchase, I’m still trying to get the right one for the truck accessories, not sure what the problem is here just yet.
AC Compressor -$129.84
Ebay Sanden 4665, it probably isn’t a true Sanden, but hopefully it’ll work, could also be purchased from CPW for $200
AC Charging -$150
This is an estimate but should be pretty close, alternatively you could rent the vacuum pump from Oreillys and charge it yourself, but I don’t want to get into that with so many new expensive parts, I want someone else to have that liability.
Coolant Overflow Tank-$260
CPW, if you install the high mount AC compressor you must have this tank or make your own, or something because the compressor hits the stock tank. Great build quality though and I highly recommend it.
Trans Crossmember -$319
G-Force Perf. RCS10-4L80, for the money it didn’t fit very well, next time I’ll just build my own, but it is heck for stout.
EGR Blockoff Plug -$11.92
Ebay, easy and done.
Trans AN Fittings -$14.09
These are the fittings that connect to the 4L80E Russell PN RUS641390
AN 90° to Hose -$62.94
EBay I used 6 of these for the trans to radiator and for radiator to trans cooler and back, I really like AN fittings after using them, but you could save money by trying to get your old cooler lines to work. Russell PN RUS610165
3/8" NPT to -6 AN -$11.94
EBay This is needed to go from the trans cooler to the AN fittings. Russell PN RUS660463
1/2"-20 Inverted Flare (Rad) -$11.18
EBay, I couldn’t find these in the Russell catalog, but these go from the CPW radiator to -6 AN PN 2D058286468TVM4
AN Hose -6 -$92.53
EBay I ended up buying 2 20’ rolls and have a probably 1’ left over, I used the same hose for trans lines and fuel lines. Russell PN RUS632095
Trans mount -$12.35
EBay I needed this to bolt up to the cross member, not sure why but the cross member didn’t use the same style as the factory mount.
Driveshaft Shortening -$90
I had this done locally but from what I’ve read it is a pretty typical price. I reused the S-10 2 piece drive shaft and only had the front shortened 1.25”. Alternatively I could have bolted in the front shaft from the donor and shortened the rear. I’ll probably do this when I get a bigger axle which is the stock open 4.10 diff now.
Adaptor U Joint -$30.41
Napa, This is the joint I needed to go from the S10 shaft to the 4L80E Yoke. PN UJ447
Radiator, Fans, Shroud, and AC Condenser-$1,045
CPW, good instructions, and was easy to install and fit great. Have a hole saw, sawzall, and angle grinder handy for clearance work for AC Lines.
Steam Vent Fitting on Rad. -$3.05
EBay, 5/16" Hose barb to 1/4" NPT fitting, I reused the steam vent hose that came with the donor truck.
Radiator Cap -$14.95
EBay I don’t know why but when you spend all that money on a radiator it doesn’t come with a cap, buy one ahead of time.
Fluids-$69.44
Wal-Mart, Trans. Fluid, Antifreeze (full strength then buy “baby water” for $1 a gallon and mix your own 50/50, cheaper than the pre-diluted stuff), power steering fluid, and engine oil, you did remember to put oil in that thing didn’t you?
Coolant Hoses-$11.50
Oreillys, I was able to reuse the lower hose, I think it was PN 22437 (Gates hose number), but had to cut it down some, the upper hose was a pain but Masterpro 21970 (I feel like I should only tell people this number if they send me $5 because I could NOT find it online anywhere and CPW didn’t even know what it was) worked for me with a Zip Tie to hold it away from the belt, it also had to be cut down some.
Heater core hoses -$15.10
Oreillys, I picked up 6’ of 5/8” and 3/4” coolant hose and routed them as needed.
Throttle Cable -$40.39
EBay, it is the cable from the 4.3 trucks, install this in the truck before you install the engine. PN 15010419
Cruise Cable -$51.72
EBay, it is the cable from the 4.3 trucks, install this in the truck before you install the engine. PN 15045460
Mufflers, exhaust pipe, bends, V band clamps, flex joints, etc.-$179.91
Ebay/Oreillys, This is going to be person specific, I welded my own up and it turned out okay but the Flowmaster 10 mufflers…I know why they call them drone masters now, but they sound great at WOT. You’d be into it about the same at a local muffler shop, but you may not get the mandrel bends like I bought.
Header Bolts -$30.94
EBay, If you don’t break off a header bolt in your engine, you are the master. I ended up welding a dot on the end of the stud, then repeat until you can grab it with some good pliers (I HIGHLY recommend Knipex, not cheap but they are great, I’ll never go back to normal channel locks again.) and twist. One stud took me 17 tries but I won. I used ARP 134-1102 to replace them with, re-torque after the first run to operating temp, then again after about 100 miles
Header Gaskets -$24.78
EBay, I like factory gaskets, they last forever in stock applications so why not. PN 12617944
Fuel Lines-$150.67
Online, I had the flex fuel truck with the regulator/return on the filter like the corvette filter and changed it over to use the regulator/return on the fuel rails from the LQ4. I chose to use all -6 AN lines and fittings. New filter plugged into existing supply, one thing I found out the 5/16” line is the supply to the filter (PN BF1170), fuel filter to rail supply (PN RUS611203), fuel line (RUS632093), fuel line to supply side of rail (PN RUS611203), return side of rail to fuel line (PN RUS611253), more of the same line, fuel return to factory hose (PN RUS640940). That should cover it, I hope
Air Intake -$95.50
EBay, I bought a generic metal intake from a 2002 Silverado 2500, then had to buy Spectre 8131 filter, Spectre 9709 4” dia by 4” long pipe, and a 4” coupler with new hose clamps, but could have used the ones from the old intake. Then I cut off the mounting brackets from the intake to make it fit. The extra pipe and coupler were to clear the alternator. Surprisingly it fit really well in the end.
Belt-$28.32
Oreillys, I used K061120, which is a 6 rib 112” belt, I may have swapped a couple of pulleys from my stock for ones with good bearings so this belt may not be perfect, but it’ll get you in the ball park.
Power Steering Lines-$73.42
EBay, The fitting from the power steering pump to adapt to -6 AN (PN RUS648060), AN to hose fitting (PN RUS610025), Braided stainless hose (PN RUS632060) (I bought more than I needed and have enough to do 2 or 3 more if needed, you only need 2’ tops), hose to AN 90° (PN RUS610165), and finely AN 90° to the steering box (PN RUS648080). I also had to plug the return on the pump that used to come from the hydroboost brakes.
Power Steering Pump Pulley-$31.95
Oreillys, this pulley will work without shimming the pump back, but it really close to being bottomed out, Dorman PN 300-202.
Steering Shaft-$24.98
EBay, I picked one up from a 99-04 Jeep Grand Cherokee, I had to do some cutting and welding to make it all work, I’m still using the factory rag joint which I’m not a fan up but it works for me, I’d recommend digging a little deeper into this elsewhere to find a better fit.
That is all, I have a grand total of $7,188.47 into the swap, I didn’t list some repair items I bought like water pump, trans seal, power steering pump now, etc. But that is really up to the builder if they want to do it or not. You could save around $1,300 by not getting AC, and doing a few other things different and still end up with the same basic truck. Of course if you already have the truck and engine and trans you can save even more. Good luck and if you have any questions feel free to ask.
JB
...So here is the total and complete parts breakdown, this is going to take me a while.
Notes, this list is for installing a LQ4 and 4L80E from a 2002 Silverado 2500 into a 2001 S10 with a 2.2 using the truck accessories, intake, and fuel rail. There are some misc. bolts, clips, hose clamps etc. that you will need I didn’t list but had laying around. I recommend when you go to a junk yard to grab a pocket/bucket full of this stuff and take it with you, dirt cheap compared to having to buy new all the time.
Truck- $500
Bought off of my brother with a blown engine
Donor Truck- $2,300
CL purchase, pulled engine, trans, and driveshaft sold for $600
Tag, Title, License-$139.25
Wiring Harness-$830
Purchased from CPW, 9 week delivery, but well worth it for me, could be done cheaper though.
Computer Tuning-$free
I purchased HP Tuners and used 2 of their free credits, but if I had to buy them it would have been $100, or CPW would tune it for gears, and tire size as well as turn off all unnecessary stuff for $175, that may have been the better option
Engine Mounts, Shorty Headers, and Oil Pan-$499.5
CPW, ordered as a package and it was the cheapest way I could find to get the headers and oil pan with windage tray and dip stick as well as new bolts. The headers fit great but needed some hammer work around the passenger upper control arm. Alternatively you could use a tubular upper control arm and not beat up your new headers.
Oil Filter-$5
I think it was Oreillys part number PF48
Round Coil Packs-$100
I had a complete set from another engine, or you could get lucky and your engine already have them, but they can be had for $100 on EBay, PN 19005218.
AC Relocation Brackets-$227
Purchased from CPW, if I had a tig welded I would get it perfectly aligned and tack some of this together so it is easier to remove if ever needed. Keep the instructions close by.
Belt Tensioner-$25.51
This is needed only when using the AC Relocation brackets purchased from CPW, it can be omitted if using stock AC, or no AC. PN 12560344
AC lines -$225
Also a CPW purchase, I’m still trying to get the right one for the truck accessories, not sure what the problem is here just yet.
AC Compressor -$129.84
Ebay Sanden 4665, it probably isn’t a true Sanden, but hopefully it’ll work, could also be purchased from CPW for $200
AC Charging -$150
This is an estimate but should be pretty close, alternatively you could rent the vacuum pump from Oreillys and charge it yourself, but I don’t want to get into that with so many new expensive parts, I want someone else to have that liability.
Coolant Overflow Tank-$260
CPW, if you install the high mount AC compressor you must have this tank or make your own, or something because the compressor hits the stock tank. Great build quality though and I highly recommend it.
Trans Crossmember -$319
G-Force Perf. RCS10-4L80, for the money it didn’t fit very well, next time I’ll just build my own, but it is heck for stout.
EGR Blockoff Plug -$11.92
Ebay, easy and done.
Trans AN Fittings -$14.09
These are the fittings that connect to the 4L80E Russell PN RUS641390
AN 90° to Hose -$62.94
EBay I used 6 of these for the trans to radiator and for radiator to trans cooler and back, I really like AN fittings after using them, but you could save money by trying to get your old cooler lines to work. Russell PN RUS610165
3/8" NPT to -6 AN -$11.94
EBay This is needed to go from the trans cooler to the AN fittings. Russell PN RUS660463
1/2"-20 Inverted Flare (Rad) -$11.18
EBay, I couldn’t find these in the Russell catalog, but these go from the CPW radiator to -6 AN PN 2D058286468TVM4
AN Hose -6 -$92.53
EBay I ended up buying 2 20’ rolls and have a probably 1’ left over, I used the same hose for trans lines and fuel lines. Russell PN RUS632095
Trans mount -$12.35
EBay I needed this to bolt up to the cross member, not sure why but the cross member didn’t use the same style as the factory mount.
Driveshaft Shortening -$90
I had this done locally but from what I’ve read it is a pretty typical price. I reused the S-10 2 piece drive shaft and only had the front shortened 1.25”. Alternatively I could have bolted in the front shaft from the donor and shortened the rear. I’ll probably do this when I get a bigger axle which is the stock open 4.10 diff now.
Adaptor U Joint -$30.41
Napa, This is the joint I needed to go from the S10 shaft to the 4L80E Yoke. PN UJ447
Radiator, Fans, Shroud, and AC Condenser-$1,045
CPW, good instructions, and was easy to install and fit great. Have a hole saw, sawzall, and angle grinder handy for clearance work for AC Lines.
Steam Vent Fitting on Rad. -$3.05
EBay, 5/16" Hose barb to 1/4" NPT fitting, I reused the steam vent hose that came with the donor truck.
Radiator Cap -$14.95
EBay I don’t know why but when you spend all that money on a radiator it doesn’t come with a cap, buy one ahead of time.
Fluids-$69.44
Wal-Mart, Trans. Fluid, Antifreeze (full strength then buy “baby water” for $1 a gallon and mix your own 50/50, cheaper than the pre-diluted stuff), power steering fluid, and engine oil, you did remember to put oil in that thing didn’t you?
Coolant Hoses-$11.50
Oreillys, I was able to reuse the lower hose, I think it was PN 22437 (Gates hose number), but had to cut it down some, the upper hose was a pain but Masterpro 21970 (I feel like I should only tell people this number if they send me $5 because I could NOT find it online anywhere and CPW didn’t even know what it was) worked for me with a Zip Tie to hold it away from the belt, it also had to be cut down some.
Heater core hoses -$15.10
Oreillys, I picked up 6’ of 5/8” and 3/4” coolant hose and routed them as needed.
Throttle Cable -$40.39
EBay, it is the cable from the 4.3 trucks, install this in the truck before you install the engine. PN 15010419
Cruise Cable -$51.72
EBay, it is the cable from the 4.3 trucks, install this in the truck before you install the engine. PN 15045460
Mufflers, exhaust pipe, bends, V band clamps, flex joints, etc.-$179.91
Ebay/Oreillys, This is going to be person specific, I welded my own up and it turned out okay but the Flowmaster 10 mufflers…I know why they call them drone masters now, but they sound great at WOT. You’d be into it about the same at a local muffler shop, but you may not get the mandrel bends like I bought.
Header Bolts -$30.94
EBay, If you don’t break off a header bolt in your engine, you are the master. I ended up welding a dot on the end of the stud, then repeat until you can grab it with some good pliers (I HIGHLY recommend Knipex, not cheap but they are great, I’ll never go back to normal channel locks again.) and twist. One stud took me 17 tries but I won. I used ARP 134-1102 to replace them with, re-torque after the first run to operating temp, then again after about 100 miles
Header Gaskets -$24.78
EBay, I like factory gaskets, they last forever in stock applications so why not. PN 12617944
Fuel Lines-$150.67
Online, I had the flex fuel truck with the regulator/return on the filter like the corvette filter and changed it over to use the regulator/return on the fuel rails from the LQ4. I chose to use all -6 AN lines and fittings. New filter plugged into existing supply, one thing I found out the 5/16” line is the supply to the filter (PN BF1170), fuel filter to rail supply (PN RUS611203), fuel line (RUS632093), fuel line to supply side of rail (PN RUS611203), return side of rail to fuel line (PN RUS611253), more of the same line, fuel return to factory hose (PN RUS640940). That should cover it, I hope
Air Intake -$95.50
EBay, I bought a generic metal intake from a 2002 Silverado 2500, then had to buy Spectre 8131 filter, Spectre 9709 4” dia by 4” long pipe, and a 4” coupler with new hose clamps, but could have used the ones from the old intake. Then I cut off the mounting brackets from the intake to make it fit. The extra pipe and coupler were to clear the alternator. Surprisingly it fit really well in the end.
Belt-$28.32
Oreillys, I used K061120, which is a 6 rib 112” belt, I may have swapped a couple of pulleys from my stock for ones with good bearings so this belt may not be perfect, but it’ll get you in the ball park.
Power Steering Lines-$73.42
EBay, The fitting from the power steering pump to adapt to -6 AN (PN RUS648060), AN to hose fitting (PN RUS610025), Braided stainless hose (PN RUS632060) (I bought more than I needed and have enough to do 2 or 3 more if needed, you only need 2’ tops), hose to AN 90° (PN RUS610165), and finely AN 90° to the steering box (PN RUS648080). I also had to plug the return on the pump that used to come from the hydroboost brakes.
Power Steering Pump Pulley-$31.95
Oreillys, this pulley will work without shimming the pump back, but it really close to being bottomed out, Dorman PN 300-202.
Steering Shaft-$24.98
EBay, I picked one up from a 99-04 Jeep Grand Cherokee, I had to do some cutting and welding to make it all work, I’m still using the factory rag joint which I’m not a fan up but it works for me, I’d recommend digging a little deeper into this elsewhere to find a better fit.
That is all, I have a grand total of $7,188.47 into the swap, I didn’t list some repair items I bought like water pump, trans seal, power steering pump now, etc. But that is really up to the builder if they want to do it or not. You could save around $1,300 by not getting AC, and doing a few other things different and still end up with the same basic truck. Of course if you already have the truck and engine and trans you can save even more. Good luck and if you have any questions feel free to ask.
JB
Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
JB, I am not doing something similar but I read the whole thing. :tard:Just in case anyone is interested I typed this up for the other thread I have on the S10, hopefully someone will find this useful, if you read this entire reply and aren't doing something similar you are insane, if I were you I'd glaze over it.
JB
Do you know a way to do this without your wife noticing? I'm thinking of parking it across the street in the empty lot and working on it after she goes to sleep.
Grumblebum
Well-known member
Well done JB. A bit late but I'll add my "aye" for the burnout test
GB
GB
mybigwarwagon
Well-known member
Oh yeah, here is my vote.