Above 1200 Sq/FT The Warthog Hidey Hole

[dchance]

JB I like your list. I am not planning on doing anything like that at the present but it is a good thought provoker on what goes into a swap irregardless of the vehicle that you are working on.

Dwight

 

[oldironfarmer]

Just to prove my sanity I did not read your list.

Then I proved my insanity by reading through it in detail. You have put a LOT of work into that swap! And money!! It's always scary when you add everything up on something like that so I refrain from ever summarizing, I'm a wimp.

Great job!

And congratulations on having an understanding wife who supports you in unified family decisions like this...

 

[jbmatth]

Busy guy you are!!!

AGVI, I try not to let grass grow under my feet, which is easy when I'm on the concrete floor.

Oh yeah, here is my vote.

So that is what it looks like if an S10 did a burn out.

JB I like your list. I am not planning on doing anything like that at the present but it is a good thought provoker on what goes into a swap irregardless of the vehicle that you are working on.

Dwight

That list has basically doubled in size since I decided to start ordering parts. Luckily most of them were small parts, but even $10 each they add up quick.

Just to prove my sanity I did not read your list.

Then I proved my insanity by reading through it in detail. You have put a LOT of work into that swap! And money!! It's always scary when you add everything up on something like that so I refrain from ever summarizing, I'm a wimp.

Great job!

And congratulations on having an understanding wife who supports you in unified family decisions like this...

I probalby shouldn't have added it all up, it didn't seem like that much as I've had the S10 for 8 months, the donor for 5 months and the other parts purchases were spread out over the last 3 months. All of the money came from my "allowance" , profits on parting stuff out, and the little bit of overtime on the big turnaround. Including the Cobra, BP 2.0, Lil Blue, Pinkie Pi, and the Green Dragon I only have about $3,500 more than we paid for her Jeep. So I'll take that as a unified decision. I'm sure I'll get at minimum an eye roll from that.

I hate to add it all up, but I'm too addicted to numbers and documentation.


All,
I put on the new-to-me power steering pump this morning, filled it up, finished installing everything else and fired it up, then drained fluid into the engine bay and on the floor because I didn't reconnect the return hose from the cooler. Oops

JB

 

[rmalkow2]

Thanks for the list and all the costs. I think $7100 for a rip snortin, really fast, hot rod truck is not a bad deal. You certainly could not pay someone else to build that for you or buy something equal in performance brand new at that price. Nice job and enjoy!

 

[jbmatth]

Thanks for the list and all the costs. I think $7100 for a rip snortin, really fast, hot rod truck is not a bad deal. You certainly could not pay someone else to build that for you or buy something equal in performance brand new at that price. Nice job and enjoy!

You are very correct there rmalkow2. One thing that did make me question this was half way through I found an LS swapped S10 for sale for $5,500, but it had a turbo attached to it. No AC, and many of the stock S10 parts like the radiator were still in place. I think I made the right call on most of the decision on the build, but a turbo would sure be a lot of fun.

JB

 

[Finallygotit]

.........but a turbo would sure be a lot of fun.

JB

Oh, you have to do a super charger. Once you get that whine in your head......ahh Valhalla. I think I hear angels singing.

 

[jbmatth]

With the way the P.S. pump was whining I thought I did have one. I'd enjoy an LSA blower on the 6.0, and it would fit under the hood, and I could keep the AC... Now you have me thinking about version 2.

JB

 

[Finallygotit]

No turbo lag, no crazy exhaust/intake plumbing, no wrapping exhaust pipes, etc.

Then there's that whine, did I happen to mention that whine?

 

[mybigwarwagon]

So that is what it looks like if an S10 did a burn out.

I bought that truck for $150 for scrap. Played with it for a couple of years in the field and then sold it to a guy for $800. Not a bad return. It was a complete pile though. I should have taken pictures of the hackery.

 

[jbmatth]

No turbo lag, no crazy exhaust/intake plumbing, no wrapping exhaust pipes, etc.

Then there's that whine, did I happen to mention that whine?

I really need to add that to my short list of things to do next winter, it just sounds lo much fun. Oh the whine, nope hadn't heard about that one.

I bought that truck for $150 for scrap. Played with it for a couple of years in the field and then sold it to a guy for $800. Not a bad return. It was a complete pile though. I should have taken pictures of the hackery.

Sounds like a good deal all in all then. I sometimes buy beaters to just play around with...then put entirely too much time and money into them. I would like to have a true beater for around the farm though, something I can jump and drive into things. Like a 2001 Suburban 4wd with a 5.3 and a busted pinion in the rear axle. Yep that is what I need.


All,
I really haven't made much note worthy progress recently. I've replaced the power steering pump and it works great, I've tinkered with a few other odds and ends just trying to get it ready for more driving. I did install this though:

Those are the dixie horns that were in the cobra last summer, it is fun if nothing else. The speakers aren't hooked up for the time being, it is just a good place to keep them clean and dry. I'm working to figure out why the O2 sensors aren't working right now, more troubleshooting to follow.

JB

P.S. As mentioned above I picked up a suburban for the engine donor for Pinky Pi, but my wife is trying to talk me into using it in something else.

JB

 

[OutlawDrifter]

Does momma want a V8 Jeep?

 

[jbmatth]

It sounds to me like she wants to have a v8-manual trans-Jeep painted hot pink for her and the girls to enjoy when I'm in one of my vehicles. So I'm now on the lookout for a Jeep with a good body but not worried about anything else as most likely I won't use anything but the frame and maybe interior. That is me dreaming at least, we will see where that goes. I do want to get Pinky Pi on the road though, it'll be a lot more comfortable for long drives than the Jeep will be.

JB

 

[jbmatth]

I have now put on a few hundred miles onto the swap and it is very fun. I took it on a 700 mile road trip this weekend without a hitch, I only popped the hood to show it to people. That isn't to say there are not updates needed. I still have to work on the tune some, and figure out why I keep throwing an O2 sensor code. Both O2 sensors were reading about the same constantly, the wiring tested fine and the one I could easily removed did not test fine so I replaced it. Sadly they are still both reading close to the same, I'll drive it for a bit to see if the CEL comes back on, if it only trips one code I'll replace the other one.

I also ordered new upper control arms to give more clearance for the passenger header, new shocks, and a new steering gearbox because mine was out of adjustment room. Here is another video I did with a final walk around:
Final Update on the LQ4 Swapped S10

And lastly because you asked for it a "Test Drive" video:
Test Drive
By test drive I mean

I really haven't done anything post worthy, tearing old parts down to scrap, cleaning and organizing the shop and of course doing some trouble shooting on the S10. Okay Okay fine, I've been lazy but still trying to get some stuff done.

JB

 

[Finallygotit]

.......And lastly because you asked for it a "Test Drive" video:
Test Drive
By test drive I mean

...........

Now that's what I'm talking about!

 

[Nlped]

Truck looks like it’d be a blast to drive. Gotta get a posi under there.

Ed


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[oldironfarmer]

Now that's what I'm talking about!

X2

(not my tires)

 

[jbmatth]

Now that's what I'm talking about!

Thank you Finally, it was a pretty good little burnout, imagine the smoke if I had two tires spinning.

Truck looks like it’d be a blast to drive. Gotta get a posi under there.

Ed


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I posted the video on FB and every single comment mentioned the lack of a posi, I may just have to give into peer pressure.

X2

(not my tires)

Thanks Andy, I think I have some old tires that would work great for burnout tires if I really wanted to go nuts with it, or at least know someone who might.

JB

 

[rmalkow2]

X2

(not my tires)

x3

And I agree with your comment about having two tires spinning. Sounds like a new rear diff is the next big upgrade maybe.
Anyway that turned out awesome and what a little hot rod! Congrats.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

I commend the effort (even if it was a peg legger)!

Are the O2 readings fluctuating up and down or are they holding at like 450? Is the pickup going into "closed loop" or staying in "open loop"?

 

[jbmatth]

x3

And I agree with your comment about having two tires spinning. Sounds like a new rear diff is the next big upgrade maybe.
Anyway that turned out awesome and what a little hot rod! Congrats.

Thanks rmalkow, I am working on a few other things right now but have a week off in April and I'll be doing some junk yard crawling that week to find a new rear end for it, that is if Craigslist doesn't find something first.

I commend the effort (even if it was a peg legger)!

Are the O2 readings fluctuating up and down or are they holding at like 450? Is the pickup going into "closed loop" or staying in "open loop"?

LOL Thanks Outlaw. The reading stays right at 488 plus/minus 5 but 75% of the time it stays at 488. How can I tell if it is closed or open loop?

JB

 

[OutlawDrifter]

JB, I haven't messed with the HP Tuners software very much. Somewhere in there it should tell you if it's running in "open loop"(typical of a cold engine warming up), then switch to "closed loop" (commanded at a certain temperature, at this point it uses O2 information for the fueling maps).

Once in closed loop you should see the O2 readings bouncing from approx. 50-900mv.

450mv generally indicates an issue with the O2 sensor or the wiring. Did you use Bosch O2 sensors by chance? The have a very bad reputation. I only run AC Delco or Denso branded sensors.

 

[jbmatth]

Thanks for the reply, from what I can tell by a quick search you can't really tell if it is for certain, but within the tune I can see if it should be in open or closed loop.

I did buy one Bosch O2 sensor to see if they were the problem. When I tested the one I pulled it took ~30 seconds to drop back down to near 0 volts and from what I could find online it should have gotten there in a matter of seconds. Hopefully that isn't wrong.

I won't be able to drive it again until the rest of my parts show up so I'll have to test it then.

JB

 

[OutlawDrifter]

I use a Bluetooth OBD2 reader and the Torque Pro app to read codes and snoop on my vehicles. About $27 bucks total. The Torque app has a place that shows you when it is in open or closed loop operation. Also gives you a full rundown of the the diagnostics the ECU runs through.

 

[jbmatth]

I ordered one similar that is supposed to tell if I'm in open or closed loop, hopefully it'll get here about the time I have the truck back together and can run it.

JB

 

[Lwel9226]

Just in case you haven't heard, you might need posi-trac

LynnW

 

[mybigwarwagon]

Finally was able to watch the videos. Nice one wheel peel!

 

[rixtrix1]

If you changed the thermostat to one colder than stock, it may never go into closed loop. If it doesn't warm up fast enough, it should set a code for that, too( usually caused by a thermostat that's stuck open). Upstream O2 sensors should start to fluctuate between .100V and .800V within 90 seconds. As OD said, use ACD or Denso sensors only on a GM product. Is your temp sensor reading at the ECM?

Where did you order your upper arms from? BTW. after getting my 2000 ZQ8 S10 totaled 10 days ago, I got a 2002 S10 yesterday to replace it. Buying back the totaled one to swap suspension, brakes and anything else I can use from it. Maybe I'll get enough of a settlement to swap in a V8( wishful thinking).

 

[jbmatth]

Just in case you haven't, you might need posi-trac

LynnW

Thanks for commenting Lynn, and yes a Posi, LSD, or Tru-Trac are on my short list if the 8.5" 10 bolt I eventually install doesn't have one.

Finally was able to watch the videos. Nice one wheel peel!

Thanks War Wagon, I was impressed as well, I hate to admit it but that was the first time I've truly ever done a burnout.

If you changed the thermostat to one colder than stock, it may never go into closed loop. If it doesn't warm up fast enough, it should set a code for that, too( usually caused by a thermostat that's stuck open). Upstream O2 sensors should start to fluctuate between .100V and .800V within 90 seconds. As OD said, use ACD or Denso sensors only on a GM product. Is your temp sensor reading at the ECM?

Where did you order your upper arms from? BTW. after getting my 2000 ZQ8 S10 totaled 10 days ago, I got a 2002 S10 yesterday to replace it. Buying back the totaled one to swap suspension, brakes and anything else I can use from it. Maybe I'll get enough of a settlement to swap in a V8( wishful thinking).

The thermostat is the stock temp, and opens around 210-215 based on the gauge, and is reading on the ECM based off of the HP Tuners software. I'll do some more digging on the O2's before I buy another set. What is the reasoning behind the Bosch products not working?

Here is the link to the control arms I purchased:
Listing Link

I hope you do, but don't hold your breath, of course everyone needs a v8 S10, it is really fun!

JB

 

[mybigwarwagon]

Had the one I had been built better I might have kept it. As it was teh word sketchy doesn't come close to the experience. IT was fun though.

 

[rixtrix1]

of course everyone needs a v8 S10, it is really fun!

I'm still breathing, JB. It could take a year or two just to settle the medical bills. I'll get paid for the truck this week and that is 60% more than the replacement truck cost me and as long as the medical gets paid I'll be happy. I do want an aluminum LS if I ever go that route. More bux, but they weigh about the same as the V6.

One tire or not, the burnout sounded awesome!!!!

 

[jbmatth]

Had the one I had been built better I might have kept it. As it was teh word sketchy doesn't come close to the experience. IT was fun though.

I've seen a few really sketchy vehicle builds, but if they are cheap enough I'd let'em stick around long enough to ruin a few tires.

I'm still breathing, JB. It could take a year or two just to settle the medical bills. I'll get paid for the truck this week and that is 60% more than the replacement truck cost me and as long as the medical gets paid I'll be happy. I do want an aluminum LS if I ever go that route. More bux, but they weight about the same as the V6.

One tire or not, the burnout sounded awesome!!!!

Rix,
I should apologize for not asking sooner, how are you doing from the accident? Based off of your answers it sounds like there will be some fun phone calls with the ins. agent/adjuster to get things straightened out. I really like the aluminum block LS's, but couldn't justify one for this truck. And there aren't many curves around here to worry about handling characteristics.

Also thanks for the positive comments on the burnout. I was really surprised while driving this weekend that when at cruising speed it wasn't loud at all, the wind noise was worse than anything.


All,

I bought those tubular upper control arms to help with a clearance issue I'm having on the passenger side header. Well I can't install them at this time, I guess I could but I'd have to pull the headers and that would be a MAJOR pain to access everything. I plan to pull the cab and then the engine next year to go through it a bit so I'll just throw them on then. Kinda stinks I just spent $200 on something I can't really install yet though.

Also I'm replacing the steering box and when trying to pull the pitman arm I broke my puller. Luckily it has a lifetime warranty so I'm getting another today.
JB

 

[rixtrix1]

JB, Trudi's chest is extremely sore from the seatbelt and her side of the truck was a more direct hit. I worry more about her as she usuallly doesn't complain. I have lots of muscle and ligament soreness, pains that come and go. Starting PT this week. Thanks for your concern!

You can install those upper arms without removing the headers if you knock out the shaft bolts with a slide hammer. I put a piece of 1/4"x1" ******** the end of a piece of 1/2" all thread with a nut on the end to stop a 5# chunk of lead . Disconnect the upper b-jt, rotate the arm upward enough to put the slide hammer over the shaft and the end of the shaft bolt. A few hits and the bolts are pushed back off the knurled ensa and you should be able to lift the old arms out. When installing the new arms, position them and loosely install the knutled shaft bolte a few taps with a big punch and hammer and they will lock in place allowing you to re-install the shims and nuts. I hope you are installing a quick ratio steering box( Monte Carlo SS, ZQ8 S10 are a couple of examples). A 94-98 Jeep cherokee steering shaft with the lower Ujoint cuf off and shortened 1-1/4" and the joint rotated 90 degrees and welded back on give a lot more room and solid flex joints and lots more positive steering. Good luck moving forward with this and your other projects.

 

[jbmatth]

JB, Trudi's chest is extremely sore from the seatbelt and her side of the truck was a more direct hit. I worry more about her as she usuallly doesn't complain. I have lots of muscle and ligament soreness, pains that come and go. Starting PT this week. Thanks for your concern!

You can install those upper arms without removing the headers if you knock out the shaft bolts with a slide hammer. I put a piece of 1/4"x1" ******** the end of a piece of 1/2" all thread with a nut on the end to stop a 5# chunk of lead . Disconnect the upper b-jt, rotate the arm upward enough to put the slide hammer over the shaft and the end of the shaft bolt. A few hits and the bolts are pushed back off the knurled ensa and you should be able to lift the old arms out. When installing the new arms, position them and loosely install the knutled shaft bolte a few taps with a big punch and hammer and they will lock in place allowing you to re-install the shims and nuts. I hope you are installing a quick ratio steering box( Monte Carlo SS, ZQ8 S10 are a couple of examples). A 94-98 Jeep cherokee steering shaft with the lower Ujoint cuf off and shortened 1-1/4" and the joint rotated 90 degrees and welded back on give a lot more room and solid flex joints and lots more positive steering. Good luck moving forward with this and your other projects.

Rix,
Glad to hear ya'll are doing more or less okay, keep at the PT it really will help even if it doesn't seem like it at the time.

I thought about using a slide hammer to remove them but was having a tough time envisioning how to make it work and I think I have it now, thank you. I just have to get a slide hammer, I don't know how I've not bought one yet, well I do, lazy, cheap, etc. but mostly cheap.

I did order the ZQ8 box, I reused the rag joint from the S10, but did change the shaft out to one from a 99-04 Grand Cherokee. I didn't know what year jeep steering shaft to find I just kept hearing late 90's Jeep. I bought the cheapest one I could find and made it work, but will try to find the right one in my junk yard sprawl in April to get rid of the rag joint.

Thanks again for the tips,
JB

 

[jbmatth]

I had some unfortunate family things happen this weekend and didn't get anything done on Friday or Saturday. My sleep schedule was messed up beyond repair so I was in the shop by 2 am and ready to make some progress on the Lil' Blue Truck. I decided to take Rix advise and built a quick and dirty slide hammer. I used 5/8" (16mm) all-thread that already had a nut welded on, a little plate, some washers and a 1" (25.4mm) sch. 160 pipe. Here is what I came up with:

Not the heaviest of hammers and not comfortable, but it worked eventually. This is how I used it:

What you can't see is the back side of the stud has two nuts to hold the plate on tight to help keep from destroying the threads. That worked fine on the driver side but the passenger side was another story. The upper control arm wouldn't even come loose with the studs removed. I was dedicated to it at this point so I broke out the grinder and sawsall. It came out in 6 pieces when all was said and done, and now I have much more room by the headers:

Compare that to how it was before:

I also ended up replacing the steering gearbox, at first I couldn't get the pitman arm to come off even using the puller, in fact I broke the first puller and picked up another under the lifetime warranty. I have been soaking the splines with PB Blaster for 4 days, this time I tightened it up as much as I felt comfortable, tapped on it with a hammer and still no movement, out came the torch. Heat, tap, tighten, repeat, eventually it came off and out came the old box and in went the new. I also replaced all 4 shocks and even installed new side-view mirrors as both of mine were broken.

I think all that is really left I want to do before the Power Tour is axle work and stereo, maybe work on the exhaust some more but not really needed at this time.

Keep moving forward,
JB

 

[adbanshee]

A personal recommendation, throw out the PB Blaster and pick up some Kroil. you will never regret it...

David

 

[jbmatth]

David,
Thanks for following along and for comments. I've used Kroil quite a bit at work and will get some for the house eventually. As of right now I still have 2 cans of the PB Blaster I need to finish off. Something funny about here is the repairman always say one job one can. LOL
JB

 

[Lwel9226]

A personal recommendation, throw out the PB Blaster and pick up some Kroil. you will never regret it...

David

totally agree. . . . . .

LynnW

 

[oldironfarmer]

Get a piece of 2" sch 160 and make a comfortable handle for that puller. Congratulations in finding a lifetime guarantee puller, by the way.

 

[jbmatth]

Get a piece of 2" sch 160 and make a comfortable handle for that puller. Congratulations in finding a lifetime guarantee puller, by the way.

Andy,
I'd rather have a puller that doesn't break, but if it does the lifetime guarantee sure is nice. If I use the slide hammer again I may make a better handle, but most likely it was a one time use tool. I'm glad I didn't spend any money on it then.

JB

 

[jbmatth]

I know I've been a little quiet around here lately and for that I apologize. However, I have been busy but wanted to fill everyone in a little. I've been trying to get back into the gym more regularly and the only time that is available is from 5 am to 5:45 when I head in to work. That really limits my time in the morning, but it feels good to get more active again.

In other news spring is here, well other than today, it was 28°F (~-2°C) this morning. So that means it is time to get my mower back in fighting shape. When I remove the blades I have to lift the mower really high in the front to get my impact to fit, it would be really nice to have a mower lift.... I have a lift and a lot of metal taking up space so why not just build my own. This is what I started with:

The angle was the packaging from when I bought the lift, the round bar are torsion bars from the yellow truck I parted out. I cut them all apart and started from scratch. One thing to note the cutoff saw does great, but would barely scratch the torsion bars, I'm not sure what they are made up but wow they are hard. Here is what I came up with for attaching the lift arms to the new frame:

Rear view:

Front view:

You can see the bolts holding the 1" square tubing the two front wheel frames together, this was done because the deck is too wide to fit between them if they were rigidly mounted, and if left cantilevered it would have made me nervous.

All in all it works well and I was more easily able to change the engine oil, hydrostat oil in both sides, the three associated filters, air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs, and blades. It looks like next year I'll need to pull the deck and have it re-powder-coated. I'll also give it bath before mowing season begins, the last time I mowed last year it was too cold to think about. I'm satisfied with the results and it'll make blade changes a simple endeavor in the future.

In other news I picked up a new axle for the Lil' Blue Truck, sadly it wasn't what I was told but for the money I at least picked it up in case I couldn't find a better option.

JB