Above 1200 Sq/FT The Warthog Hidey Hole

[drivesitfar]

good to hear a few parts arrived to keep you moving forward.

i've seen my 2005 Honda CRV up on the mechanic's rack more than a few times and always impressed how little rust it has for a 16 year old car. one thing is we usually don't drive much around here in the snow (cause we can go thru entire winters without any some years) so salt isn't much of a concern and my bride always wanted to have her CRV (or any car) inside the garage at night so overall it's in pretty decent shape (except for the recent engine F'up with the timing chain slipping off).

i'm looking online for new K24 engines and not having much luck figuring out which company is reputable or has one that isn't too spendy. i'm thinking $2000-3000 plus $1000 install is the max i'd like to pay and of course if I can get a quality product for less all the better.

 

[mybigwarwagon]

Glad you like Toyotas but I like Hondas better. My car is a CRV (not the cheaper civic) and I’ve owned 5 of them (bought 2 new) and this is first one with any engine issues. I think between me and my bride and 2 kids we’ve put over a million miles on our Hondas.

I hear you guys in the 200k on my CRV but with a new engine it would be worth $7000+ around here and with a new engine maybe more. Not trying to reinvent the wheel it’s just that we’ve kept up this car pretty decent and most people think it’s newer than 2017 unless they know models

If everyone liked the same things ot would sure be a boring world wouldn't it? I was thinking you had a Civic for some odd reason. Yes I would think the CRV is worth fixing. Everyone I know who has one loves it. And I don't think I have ever hauled one.

 

[jbmatth]

good to hear a few parts arrived to keep you moving forward.

i've seen my 2005 Honda CRV up on the mechanic's rack more than a few times and always impressed how little rust it has for a 16 year old car. one thing is we usually don't drive much around here in the snow (cause we can go thru entire winters without any some years) so salt isn't much of a concern and my bride always wanted to have her CRV (or any car) inside the garage at night so overall it's in pretty decent shape (except for the recent engine F'up with the timing chain slipping off).

i'm looking online for new K24 engines and not having much luck figuring out which company is reputable or has one that isn't too spendy. i'm thinking $2000-3000 plus $1000 install is the max i'd like to pay and of course if I can get a quality product for less all the better.

Glad you are lucky on the rust side, it seems I live on the rust belt, if the vehicle came from Kansas almost without fail it has a lot of rust, if it lived in Oklahoma it was much less if any. The one exception is my 2014 Silverado, it lived in Kansas City and when I went to look it over it was brand new looking inside and out without even a hint of surface rust under the truck.

I haven't heard anything good long term come from Jasper and would research any others you find before buying.

If everyone liked the same things ot would sure be a boring world wouldn't it? I was thinking you had a Civic for some odd reason. Yes I would think the CRV is worth fixing. Everyone I know who has one loves it. And I don't think I have ever hauled one.

It seems like I'm the one hauling the junk away but I keep it to play around with all too often.

JB

 

[MrPink]

good to hear a few parts arrived to keep you moving forward.

i've seen my 2005 Honda CRV up on the mechanic's rack more than a few times and always impressed how little rust it has for a 16 year old car. one thing is we usually don't drive much around here in the snow (cause we can go thru entire winters without any some years) so salt isn't much of a concern and my bride always wanted to have her CRV (or any car) inside the garage at night so overall it's in pretty decent shape (except for the recent engine F'up with the timing chain slipping off).

i'm looking online for new K24 engines and not having much luck figuring out which company is reputable or has one that isn't too spendy. i'm thinking $2000-3000 plus $1000 install is the max i'd like to pay and of course if I can get a quality product for less all the better.

If you want low mileage used ones get one that has been imported from japan, they have a regulation in place that at a certain age the vehicle gets taxed more and more through out the years. Thus finding really low mile engines that get imported to the states.

JDM 2002-2006 Honda CR-V Engine 2.4L i-VTEC K24A Motor CRV - Japanese Car Parts

Year: 2002-2006 Engine Displacement: 2.4L Warranty: 90 Days Warranty on Engine Special Notes:

northwestjdmmotors.com

$900 with 40-60k miles on it. And with freight probably $1200 total.

 

[jbmatth]

Good find there @MrPink, that will be useful I'm sure.

JB

 

[drivesitfar]

MrP: thank you for information and I was aware that Japan had that rule. I’m concerned that the newer model engines won’t fit in my 2005 (but maybe there are 2005’s available with no issues) though but I’ll do more research to see if they will. on a side note I’m always concerned of buying stuff from areas that had a tsunami or hurricane or floods when buying older cars and parts.

I’m not finding anybody yet with crated new k24 engines so if any of you might know a guy or company please post on my diy thread (link below) so we don’t clutter up JB’s thread. Hopefully just talking about engines on anybody’s thread is ok especially while the member is doing an engine swap.

JB: is the to do list in Cobra getting close to being done? Sorry to hear the 4th bmw tire didn’t show up.

 

[jbmatth]

JB: is the to do list in Cobra getting close to being done? Sorry to hear the 4th bmw tire didn’t show up.

Drives, I don't think I've crossed anything off of the to do list in the past couple of weeks. I have made progress though but I'm in a very slow portion of the build right now. I'm making progress but nothing huge, here is where I've gotten to on the headers, or in this case header, I have two tubes made but have more to make before I can fully weld them out:


I also thought I'd show you what I have picked up over the past couple weeks, this is a better view of the 2001 Silverado 2500 with the 6.0L gas V8 and NV4500 5 speed manual trans:


I need to put on the collectors on this to the shorty headers then I can at least drive it around the farm without waking up neighbors 2 miles away with open headers like it has now. I also picked up this '83 (?) Cherokee with a 2.8L V6 and auto but the trans is bad. The tires are virtually brand new with only 7 driving miles and 7 tow miles on them when the trans wend out:


These are both projects for another day as the cobra is priority one for now.

JB

 

[XJSuperman]

The Jeep is probably 1984, but maybe, just maybe its actually an 83. First year XJ it would seem. I'm a little fuzzy on the details on the early ones. Hard to believe they killed the trans, those are pretty tough.
Those stupid dual exhaust pipes on the Chevy make me crazy. Seems like the first thing every kid around here does is put dual pipes on their POS truck and make it A) sound like ****, and B) they stick them out past the bumper so they're the first thing that hits when they inevitably back into something.

 

[jbmatth]

The Jeep is probably 1984, but maybe, just maybe its actually an 83. First year XJ it would seem. I'm a little fuzzy on the details on the early ones. Hard to believe they killed the trans, those are pretty tough.
Those stupid dual exhaust pipes on the Chevy make me crazy. Seems like the first thing every kid around here does is put dual pipes on their POS truck and make it A) sound like ****, and B) they stick them out past the bumper so they're the first thing that hits when they inevitably back into something.

I misspoke @XJSuperman, it is an '85 at least according to the listing. The '83 I'm looking at is a Toyota, so many vehicles recently I'm having a tough time keeping track. I'll have to look into the trans then, I haven't even tried to start it, and it is still on the trailer since getting it home. I'd like to play with it a little along with the truck but that'll be a little while still yet.

I hate how loud some vehicles are, this truck is way over the top though. The exhaust was welded on by a shop according to the PO, but WOW are the welds bad on it, I wouldn't have paid for it if that was what I got at a professional shop. Hopefully when I get the shorty headers connected to the exhaust again it'll be better on sound but as you would imagine when he installed the headers a few of the bolts broke off in the head so I'm sure there will be plenty of exhaust leaks. You can't win them all I suppose, but for the deal I couldn't pass it up.

JB

 

[XJSuperman]

Ok, second year XJ then lol. An '83 yota you say? Lets see the pics, Pickup or FJ?

 

[jbmatth]

Ok, second year XJ then lol. An '83 yota you say? Lets see the pics, Pickup or FJ?

I'm not that cool, it is what I think I'll call my Hellica, it is around an '83 Toyota Corolla, but I came up with the name because I thought it was a Celica and I just like the name to much to get rid of it:


No need to worry about purist being upset about cutting this one all up.

JB

 

[jbmatth]

I agree @XJSuperman, not as cool as other options, but I think it'll be a fun unique car when I get done with it...time will tell if I ever get it running though. I mean I know I needed more projects and here we are.

In other news I'm continuing to work on the cobra headers, made a little more progress last night:


I have one more turn to build and a straight then it is time to do some last bits of fitting before welding it all out. I sure hope it all fits when I'm done welding. The reason I'm leaving the straight parts different lengths is to have the welds staggered as the pipes are very close when the enter the collector and it'll be tough to get them to fit with one weld hitting the other pipes but 2 would certainly required lots of grinding.

JB

 

[Finallygotit]

Great work so far JB.

 

[Bob Heine]

In other news I'm continuing to work on the cobra headers, made a little more progress last night:

JB, thank you for doing this. It proves I'm not ill or insane. Or at least I'm not the only one. I took a Magnaflow off-the-shelf dual exhaust system for my Corvette and modified it to treat my disease.

Magnaflow system used too many mufflers and not enough cutouts or V-band couplers. I also wanted 3-inch pipes from the headers to the transmission crossmember.

On the other hand, you had no choice because no one makes headers for your engine/vehicle combination. There's no excuse for what I did.

 

[Chrisb62]

On the other hand, you had no choice because no one makes headers for your engine/vehicle combination. There's no excuse for what I did.

I believe the "excuse" is because you wanted to.......nuff said


JB ...you no longer have more than enough on your plate, you have more than enough on the Thanksgiving PLATTERS that are only brought out twice a year, because they are too big to use any other time. WOW

 

[jbmatth]

Great work so far JB.

Thank you @Finallygotit, it sure is a lot of work. It really helps that the weather hasn't been great lately so I don't feel the need to go out and drive it. I am still waiting to get the computer and harness though so who knows when I'll actually get to drive it even if I get it "done" before those arrive.

JB, thank you for doing this. It proves I'm not ill or insane. Or at least I'm not the only one. I took a Magnaflow off-the-shelf dual exhaust system for my Corvette and modified it to treat my disease.

Magnaflow system used too many mufflers and not enough cutouts or V-band couplers. I also wanted 3-inch pipes from the headers to the transmission crossmember.

On the other hand, you had no choice because no one makes headers for your engine/vehicle combination. There's no excuse for what I did.

I'm gaining a huge amount of respect for people who do this fabrication all the time, it is a huge amount of work and very tricky to get right...if I'm even getting it right. I bet there will eventually be plenty of people doing this but even off the shelf headers for swaps don't fit sometimes so I gotta do what I gotta do to make it work.

I believe the "excuse" is because you wanted to.......nuff said


JB ...you no longer have more than enough on your plate, you have more than enough on the Thanksgiving PLATTERS that are only brought out twice a year, because they are too big to use any other time. WOW

I'm certainly not going to have to hunt for projects anytime soon, this is fun, but I don't feel like I'm making much progress. Interestingly enough I added up what I've spent on these headers and I'm just shy of $500 in materials. With what I'm doing to them they will probably be worth about $13 in scrap when I'm done. Hopefully they sound good at least.

JB

 

[mybigwarwagon]

Maybe $12.

 

[Grizz1963]

You and Bob Heine certainly know the right way to go about getting what you want.
Progress is Progress.

Well done on another step forward.

 

[jbmatth]

Maybe $12.

You do know how to cut to the core of me... You do have a good point though.

You and Bob Heine certainly know the right way to go about getting what you want.
Progress is Progress.

Well done on another step forward.

I made a few more small steps last night and have all of the parts cut and working to finalize the fit on the last one. Step by step it is getting there.

JB

 

[racer-john]

Nice work. Headers are tricky and a lot of fussy work.

 

[jbmatth]

Nice work. Headers are tricky and a lot of fussy work.

You are not wrong, they are a ton of fussy work.

I have made more progress, the first header was all tacked up so I started jumping around welding them together while still attached to the flanges because I knew they would warp some. This is taking a while too, but still making progress:


JB

 

[mybigwarwagon]

Nope. I don't like them. You will have to start over again.

When the TV guys do them it takes 5 minutes. Are you inferring that is not correct?

 

[jbmatth]

Nope. I don't like them. You will have to start over again.

When the TV guys do them it takes 5 minutes. Are you inferring that is not correct?

I'm pretty sure that is right, they are just faster than I am...and know what they are doing, yeah that is it.

JB

 

[jbmatth]

Another weekend, when I wasn't working on the cobra I was cutting up and burning a few trees, picking up some limbs we've lost in the wind recently, grabbed a round bale feeder, and helping take care of a few sick family members. They are going okay, but still feel under the weather a good bit. Having a drink on the bed of a truck watching the fire is a relaxing end to a Saturday of hard work:


These are the trees that were intertwined with the concrete in the back of the shop, some have wire in them so rather than fight that with the saw I've elected to try to burn them out little by little. It'll take a few more tried to get them gone completely.

The first header is "done", I realized this morning I didn't finish the welding on the outside of the tubes at the collector but I'll get that when I get home...hopefully. Wow these have taken a ton of time, quite a bit bigger than the old ones:


JB

 

[Finallygotit]

Oh I bet that engine is going to have an awesome rumble. Bwahahahahaha.....

 

[jbmatth]

Oh I bet that engine is going to have an awesome rumble. Bwahahahahaha.....

Oh I sure hope so, I'm really getting excited to hear it run, but a ton to do still before that. Gotta get to cracking.

JB

 

[jbmatth]

I finished up the last little bit of the welding on the header yesterday and tried to install it. I could get all but 1 bolt installed and due to space constraints I just couldn't get the last bolt in. I think it is possible but I may have to take some stuff off I just didn't have time to keep fighting it. I'll keep trying but if I simply can't I'll have to resort to moving all of the brake lines. In this photo you can see some of the worst welds on the header, please don't be too harsh, there are no visible pinholes and it is solid:


I then moved on to the other side where I need to install the starter before building the header, a stock starter wouldn't fit due to the clocking on the solenoid so I ordered this Powermaster starter, but it wouldn't fit either with the knock sensor. It is hard to see, but it is the bolt on the right side that is light colored near the gold end of the starter:


I then got the clocking right on the starter, removed the knock sensor and held it in place as I ran out of time before work to bolt it in:


Fits great which is a relief. Luckily there are two locations on this side of the block for the knock sensor so I moved it from up by the top left of the engine mount plate to the top right:


Keep moving forward,
JB

 

[Grizz1963]

Some tight stuff going on there.

 

[mybigwarwagon]

Some tight stuff going on there.

Grease and squeeze installation.

 

[Finallygotit]

I was wondering when the space constraints were going to rear their ugly heads. I had issues with a 302; I can't imagine what you're going to encounter with that beast. Keep moving forward JB!

 

[jbmatth]

Some tight stuff going on there.

I have small hands to begin with, but after this I might wish I had the hands of a 12 year old.

Grease and squeeze installation.

No joke there, some places I'm dealing with 1/16th of an inch as it sits, I hope nothing moves when I remove and replace for after final finishing.

I was wondering when the space constraints were going to rear their ugly heads. I had issues with a 302; I can't imagine what you're going to encounter with that beast. Keep moving forward JB!

I started on the hardest header first so hopefully the passenger side is easier. I'm not looking forward to rebuilding the brake system, I've got a poor relationship with brake systems but they all seem to work in the end. I guess now would be the time to install a line lock for even better burnouts. The starter was frustrating, but it is behind me now (as long as it engages the flywheel). The last BIG hurdle will be hood clearance, I have a feeling I'm not going to get that lucky there.

I forgot to mention the BMW is now sold and lives near Dallas, that'll help fund a bit more of this project.

JB

 

[Bob Heine]

I finished up the last little bit of the welding on the header yesterday and tried to install it. I could get all but 1 bolt installed and due to space constraints I just couldn't get the last bolt in.

JB, I recall some little people wandering around your place. This would be a good time to show one of them how much fun helping Daddy fix his car can be. Maybe call it a Tuba recital.

 

[rattle_snake]

Brakes ****, yes. A Line-lock makes for fun, solid and predicable burnouts, but have drawbacks also. They all have rubber seals that eventually leak. Expect to rebuild every 5-8 years. What is meant buy rebuilding of brakes? Does the car have enough rotor/caliper now? hydroboost?

 

[harley jim]

Patiently watching,
I worked at a fab shop who's reputation was built on building custom headers, we did 3" exhaust and custom headers on a mazda mieata with a chevy 350, I know you can do it.

 

[jbmatth]

JB, I recall some little people wandering around your place. This would be a good time to show one of them how much fun helping Daddy fix his car can be. Maybe call it a Tuba recital.

I do have a couple of minature humans running around, maybe they can be of some assistance. Unfortunately they are all under the weather right now for a few more days likely so I'll have to put that idea on hold. I won't subject them to holding the flashlight for me, they don't need to learn new words.

Brakes ****, yes. A Line-lock makes for fun, solid and predicable burnouts, but have drawbacks also. They all have rubber seals that eventually leak. Expect to rebuild every 5-8 years. What is meant buy rebuilding of brakes? Does the car have enough rotor/caliper now? hydroboost?

Is the seal internal that leaks through were they can't hold the pressure, or is it an external leak? By rebuilding the brakes I meant to say re-routing all of the brake lines and that distribution block to in front of the pedal box rather than on the side where it currently is. Probably would be good to get them further from the high temps of the header.

Patiently watching,
I worked at a fab shop who's reputation was built on building custom headers, we did 3" exhaust and custom headers on a mazda mieata with a chevy 350, I know you can do it.

So you are saying you could build these headers in your sleep then...I'll load it up and see you next week. V8 swapped Miata's are really cool cars, same philosophy as the Cobra, big engine, small car, they just don't look as cool in my opinion. If I didn't have side pipes I don't think I could run an exhaust under this car realistically the way it is built currently.

In other news I spent 45 minutes putting the starter in the car and just couldn't get all three bolts to line up so it is back on the bench now, I'll have to give it another go at another time.

JB

 

[Bob Heine]

JB, the '87 Corvette front brake lines were routed pretty close to the stock exhaust system so they put a heat shield over the lines. The headers I installed made the situation worse.

I had to modify the heat shield to fit the tighter space.

If you can route those brake lines somewhere else, without creating a bleeding nightmare, that would make a surprise brake failure less likely.

 

[rattle_snake]

Is the seal internal that leaks through were they can't hold the pressure, or is it an external leak? By rebuilding the brakes I meant to say re-routing all of the brake lines and that distribution block to in front of the pedal box rather than on the side where it currently is. Probably would be good to get them further from the high temps of the header.

JB

Yes there are several internal seals for the solenoid. You can buy rebuild kits like this.

Hurst Shifters 5671500 Hurst Roll Control Rebuild Kits | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Hurst Roll Control Rebuild Kits with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Line Lock Rebuild Kits at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

Good thing is that even when it leaks the brake still work fine. Just have to find a puddle before master cylinder goes dry.
With line lock you should be able to start a 2nd or 3rd gear stationary burnout then let off button and modulate throttle until wheel speed equals vehicle speed. That should be a loooong set of marks.

 

[jbmatth]

JB, the '87 Corvette front brake lines were routed pretty close to the stock exhaust system so they put a heat shield over the lines. The headers I installed made the situation worse.

I had to modify the heat shield to fit the tighter space.

If you can route those brake lines somewhere else, without creating a bleeding nightmare, that would make a surprise brake failure less likely.

I don't think it'll be too hard to move it to the front of the footwell and not any harder to bleed than now. Famous last words, remind me of this when I spend 6 hours trying to bleed them.

Yes there are several internal seals for the solenoid. You can buy rebuild kits like this.

Hurst Shifters 5671500 Hurst Roll Control Rebuild Kits | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Hurst Roll Control Rebuild Kits with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Line Lock Rebuild Kits at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

Good thing is that even when it leaks the brake still work fine. Just have to find a puddle before master cylinder goes dry.
With line lock you should be able to start a 2nd or 3rd gear stationary burnout then let off button and modulate throttle until wheel speed equals vehicle speed. That should be a loooong set of marks.

Thank you for the info, looks like they are stem seals which makes since. I figure if I do that it'll be a contest on the tire speed catching vehicle speed, or running out of tire tread. LOL

 

[XJSuperman]

I bought a manual valve for my project rather than the electric models. But I plan to use mine as more of a parking brake than a temp burnout brake.

 

[jbmatth]

I bought a manual valve for my project rather than the electric models. But I plan to use mine as more of a parking brake than a temp burnout brake.

Manual valve, tell me more. The parking brake hasn't worked right in this car ever, and I've never bothered to try to actually fix it, they are weird rear brakes that I haven't messed with much.

JB