The wet garage raise

[Dick in Wisconsin]

Just found this tonight. I'll share with you what we did.

Where the 1000sf race shop was built, we had a 14x20 detached garage on a slab. I offered to a neighbor who agreed to take "take it". Another neighbor was the contractor on the race shop, another neighbor has a rock crawler that he hauls on a very heavy duty two axle steel trailer.

Contractor had a concrete guy come and measure the garage foot print who then poured a concrete pad where the garage would be moved with bolts in the pad to fasten garage to.

On the morning of the move (we were out of town) all the neighbors got together, sandwiched pairs of 2x12s on three or four sets of studs on opposite walls just high enough for the trailer to slide under. They used LOTS of diagonal cross bracing. Then they released the bolts holding the sill plates to the original slab, used a reciprocating saw to "release" the sill plates from the slab. Then they used bottle jacks to slowly jacked up the pairs of 2x12s until the garage was up off the slab a reasonable amount (I think they said 18"). They cribbed the 2x12's to the trailer bed and used ratchet straps to "fasten the garage to the trailer."

The trailer was hooked to the contractor's 3/4 ton P/U. They slowly went up our driveway, drove onto our town road and headed to Donnie's driveway. They had a guy on the roof spotting for low hanging wires, they said plenty of clearance.

Everything went fine until they got to the end of Donnie's driveway where the new slab was. Slab was about eight feet from the driveway and they had to build a bridge to get the trailer axles to the new slab. They set the garage down, drilled holes for the bolts, it was a perfect fit.

Then they declared, IT'S MILLER TIME!

Unless the OP is too far into his deal, considering moving the garage away from the existing slab (up onto the driveway should be enough), build your raised slab, and back the garage back down onto the raised slab. I would think it will be easier to build the raised slab without having the raised up garage over the slab.

Keep us posted.

BTW ... where in Wisconsin are you?

 

[Lunker]

I think his issue is the elevation change. Sounds like he is on the right track but man, what a project.

Also curious where is Wisc? I have a summer place up there....I'm a FIB

 

[Squ1d]

Is there any way that all of your drainage improvements might cause an issue for any of your neighbors?

 

[spudley]

Just found this tonight. I'll share with you what we did.

Where the 1000sf race shop was built, we had a 14x20 detached garage on a slab. I offered to a neighbor who agreed to take "take it". Another neighbor was the contractor on the race shop, another neighbor has a rock crawler that he hauls on a very heavy duty two axle steel trailer.

Contractor had a concrete guy come and measure the garage foot print who then poured a concrete pad where the garage would be moved with bolts in the pad to fasten garage to.

On the morning of the move (we were out of town) all the neighbors got together, sandwiched pairs of 2x12s on three or four sets of studs on opposite walls just high enough for the trailer to slide under. They used LOTS of diagonal cross bracing. Then they released the bolts holding the sill plates to the original slab, used a reciprocating saw to "release" the sill plates from the slab. Then they used bottle jacks to slowly jacked up the pairs of 2x12s until the garage was up off the slab a reasonable amount (I think they said 18"). They cribbed the 2x12's to the trailer bed and used ratchet straps to "fasten the garage to the trailer."

The trailer was hooked to the contractor's 3/4 ton P/U. They slowly went up our driveway, drove onto our town road and headed to Donnie's driveway. They had a guy on the roof spotting for low hanging wires, they said plenty of clearance.

Everything went fine until they got to the end of Donnie's driveway where the new slab was. Slab was about eight feet from the driveway and they had to build a bridge to get the trailer axles to the new slab. They set the garage down, drilled holes for the bolts, it was a perfect fit.

Then they declared, IT'S MILLER TIME!

Unless the OP is too far into his deal, considering moving the garage away from the existing slab (up onto the driveway should be enough), build your raised slab, and back the garage back down onto the raised slab. I would think it will be easier to build the raised slab without having the raised up garage over the slab.

Keep us posted.

BTW ... where in Wisconsin are you?

Yep, we did just about a repeat of your move, only we only moved a 16' wide garage (with eaves) through large trees 16'4" apart and then only across the street. Let it sit on the trailer four weeks as the new pad cured.
Hope our friend gets this job done safely.

 

[ford33]

I used concrete block for the wall extensions when I raised a garage. It was only 2 blocks, about 16 inches high but was easy to work with and I could work a block at a time.

I am glad to see you doing the bracing needed and considering your safety if something goes awry. No job is worth getting injured or dying.

Keep going. You are doing fine.

 

[Sparkynutz]

Damn I'm torn on what to do. I spent all day putting a retaining wall in around my basement window and shoveling 1.5 inch clearstone. Used mortar on 5 coarses of retaining block. Then behind that 2ft of stone with 4 inches of compacted screenings on top followed by concrete blocks filled inside and up to retaining wall. 2 more coarses of retain block on top of that. Turned out better than I expected. I hope it lasts a long time.
I removed downspout connected from house and electrical service then jacked garage up until 1030 and figured I better quit before I make any noise.
On the way up I blocked it with block every 8 or so ft under the sill next to my original oak blocks and some 2x6's just a touch under that height incase a block fails it won't fall far.
After that I kept jacking and it currently has double 10 inch barn beams under the cross LVL with my concrete blocks and double 2x4 on top under sill just shy of touching incase it falls. So basicly I'm doing a test over night to see how much it sags on other walls

When doing the block around my retaining wall they cracked and broke really easy.

My uncle said putting two courses of

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[Sparkynutz]

Oops hit enter-
Uncle said two courses of 8 inch block topped with a course of 4 inch block would be a bad idea and the 4 inch block would snap off way to easy. He said use 8 inch and cut top row and pour slab into cores. I'm second guessing block idea on how easily they broke tho.

My next idea is pouring the wall yet but in sections with rebar sticking out and have 4 extra sill supports besides the beams incase the beams fail. There would be a lot of cold joints but wondering if that would be a good idea anyways with cold joints lining up with cuts in current slab.
It's a 9 inch thick mono slab.

I forgot to take pics and I'm in bed. I'll update tomorrow

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[Sparkynutz]

Oh. And I'm near fond du lac.

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[spudley]

No reason for the block to be breaking that easily unless you're using old or crappy block. Might want to check a different supplier.
No offense to the uncle but there are plenty of houses standing comfortably on unfilled concrete block that are a bit heavier than your garage.
That said, I used 10" block on a 12 course full basement under my cabin and filled cores every 4' with rebar/concrete. No cracks in 22 years.
I'm sure you know but core block has a top and bottom side.
Wish I had some vacation time left, I'd come give you a hand.

 

[Sparkynutz]

No reason for the block to be breaking that easily unless you're using old or crappy block. Might want to check a different supplier.
No offense to the uncle but there are plenty of houses standing comfortably on unfilled concrete block that are a bit heavier than your garage.
That said, I used 10" block on a 12 course full basement under my cabin and filled cores every 4' with rebar/concrete. No cracks in 22 years.
I'm sure you know but core block has a top and bottom side.
Wish I had some vacation time left, I'd come give you a hand.

Where are you? Fat webbing goes up I assume. Going to pour walls for sure. All plywood and 2x6's were already cut. Buddy from work helped me raise it to 25 inches and we put extra bracing from back and sides after jacking up a little extra so there's slight load on them before letting back down. No cribbing is in way of outside forms so I will complete all the outside forms and decide next few days depending how weather is and how garage holds up to pour center of each wall from saw cut to saw cut in old slab or to reposition cribbing and move further in so that we can pour whole thing in one crack. For the time being we put cribbing as close as possible to outside wall for stability sake. Storms coming this weekend. Hopefully pour next week. Everything is currently sitting level and my extra 2x10's on top of center bracing actually deflected less than 1/16" so I know it's holding up end walls or it would sag 1/4"+ like it was previously. I also checked all my plumb bob marks and farthest one is only off 1/8" not bad for lifting straight up I'd say. 1.5" on one side then max out the jack on opposite side and kept going back and forth maxing out the jack until we leveled at 25". I had some old crappy plywood laying around from an office they tore down at work years ago that worked perfectly for spacer sheets and we used block as cribbing. May not be safest but with the plywood squishing to make up and differences in blocks it seemed pretty stable. Saw a video of a guy doing it that way going much higher than me and all his tools and stuff was still hanging on the walls of his shed. It's so nice and high in here now. Plenty of room for a lift lol. Stupid city rules that it can't be higher than 15ft from grade to roof peak which is within a few inches of where it will be after project is complete.

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[ADSR]

Nice work! I have to admit, I didn't think it would have lifted so well. Coming down, will be the tricky part. Stay safe, my friend.

 

[JohnnieMo]

Excellent work. It is easier than one first expects it to be. Now the challenging part is finishing the wall up.

 

[lakeroadster]

I assume your existing garage has an actual foundation with footers and isn't just slab-on-grade construction.

It's a 9 inch thick mono slab.

Have you considered talking with a structural engineer about the wisdom of pouring new walls and a new slab over the top of an existing monolithic foundation?

 

[Orionrising]

I dont thinks a new slab and walls should be an issue assuming the fill inside is properly compacted in lifts, and there is a perimeter drain installed outside. (not an engineer)

 

[spudley]

Looking good. Love the plumb bobs.
With a 9" base you should be fine.
I had two courses of 8" block set on the original floor that was barely 4" thick at the edges. Not a crack in any part of the floor in over thirty years.

 

[lakeroadster]

Looking good. Love the plumb bobs.
With a 9" base you should be fine.
I had two courses of 8" block set on the original floor that was barely 4" thick at the edges. Not a crack in any part of the floor in over thirty years.

Monolithic pour like Sparky's or a 4" slab sitting on an actual foundation?

Huge difference.

 

[Platonic Solid]

Cool and exciting! I know you originally said you are lifting 3ft to permit the 24" wall to be poured - Is that still the plan?

 

[firebirdparts]

Nice job. Made it look easy!

 

[sean Buick 76]

Nice work!!! I am impressed!

 

[Sparkynutz]

Wow! Thanks for input guys! Went up much easier than I thought and no need to cut up $800 of 4x6 treated I'm order to do it. The building inspector is an engineer and said what I'm doing shouldn't be a problem. If slab can hold a 6000lb truck in 4 points about a square ft each then 200 lbs of concrete per foot is pretty miniscule.
If you look close at my pics I have an extra stack that will be put onto top of cribbing the day before pour for more working height. My uncle stopped over and said I should move cribbing back to spot I had jack and pour the whole thing at once with concrete truck boom into garage and wheel from within to all walls and shovel in by hand instead of two pours. With garage at 25 inches I have enough room to do all of exterior forms and half of interior forms. All extra cribbing and materials are cleaned out so I have room to store the forms until cribbing is moved and installed.

Part 2 I don't think I put a link last night but I meant to.

Part 3

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[spudley]

Monolithic pour like Sparky's or a 4" slab sitting on an actual foundation?

Huge difference.

Monolithic. No foundation and no deeper around the perimeter. Surprised me when we broke it up. We also found no rebar per se but lots of pieces of bed frame and various steel the guy had laying around in the floor.
Not sure if it made a difference but it had a good sand base.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I sure hope there is some kind of a footing below this little retaining wall and wall is well attached to the footing. Assuming that it will be back filled to grade freeze/thaw will crack that wall if it is not secure.

 

[foolio]

Nice work. Enjoying the thread!

 

[Sparkynutz]

I sure hope there is some kind of a footing below this little retaining wall and wall is well attached to the footing. Assuming that it will be back filled to grade freeze/thaw will crack that wall if it is not secure.

4 inches Heavily compacted screenings on top of dirt that was very hard to dig.
It's in a pretty protected inside corner that had been bone dry 4 of the 6 times my garage flooded. Last two times I had it dug out to do the window well or it probably would have stayed dry the other 2 times.
It was the only type of block menards had that could make an inside visible corner decent. Every other type of retaining blocks were for angled outside radius corners.
These blocks had no lip and when I tried to do the design Center at menards it wouldn't let me go over 2ft saying block wasn't meant for that. Only 4 courses or 22 inches will be retaining dirt when it's all finished and graded the way blocks lock together it will push against the basement wall and don't think it's even possible for it to cave inward. Will it move up and down with frost? Possible, but should still do its job of holding dirt back and steps for the egress window. The whole inside and outside is filled with 1.5 inch clearstone with a few inches of screenings compacted on top outside block with a row of concrete block behind it to support another 2 courses of retaining block like a step. The concrete blocks are 89c and other blocks are $3.89 each. Was a shame I buried 3 courses below window already. I used mortar on the whole thing and 6 bags of concrete mix to fill cores and voids between the blocks. Before I put other two courses on but after garage foundation is complete I will be tying in two or 3 courses of same block from corner of house to corner of garage to keep that the highest point for drainage and have a step down into back yard.

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[Lunker]

Nice work on the raise and window well. I see an end in site for you very soon.

 

[Sparkynutz]

8 forms done. 16 left. Got a rythm down so rest should only take a day or so. Wood is all cut and I'm only a few boards short I'll have to run and get

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[Vintage Veloce]

Just to make you feel better, here's how we did mine. Note the cheesy bottle jack. One strong wind and we were doomed. It was this way for too long while we did the foundation. Raised it 6" should have done 12".
View media item 75590View media item 75591

 

[Sparkynutz]

Just to make you feel better, here's how we did mine. Note the cheesy bottle jack. One strong wind and we were doomed. It was this way for too long while we did the foundation. Raised it 6" should have done 12".
View media item 75590View media item 75591

Yikes. I see no corner braces. It fell?
I've ran and kicked the wall a bunch of times as hard as I could and the plumb bob in corner barely moves. The rain we are having hasn't been with strong wind. Hopefully next week sometime I'll have it poured and back down by following week. Going to be a huge pain taking all the wood off. No idea where to go with it all. Over $1200 in braces, lvls and wood for forms. Reperposing is going to take a while.

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[Vintage Veloce]

We survived, but I was rather nervous, especially as the days turned to weeks.
Two yeas later, we can see the biggest problem was the cross braces inside limited access for prep of the new slab. We didn't compress the base well enough and the floor now has lots of cracking. There is plenty of rebar, so it will be fine, but it's was still disappointing to see the cracks form. Just wish we could have gotten a hopper in there.

 

[Sparkynutz]

Hmm. It looks like you should have been able to no problem and wheeled to corners. My walls will have to be shoveled from wheelbarrows but once walls are done the braces will be gone and floor will be easy.

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[MikeF2316]

8 forms done. 16 left. Got a rythm down so rest should only take a day or so. Wood is all cut and I'm only a few boards short I'll have to run and get

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Nice work on the forms. One thing I've learned about concrete - the more time you spend on the forms - making them built right (strong) and placed right (level) the happier you'll be in the long run!

 

[Sparkynutz]

Today I took diamond grinder to concrete around outside of slab and top where wall will be to give new wall and waterproofing goop a nice clean rough surface to adhere to. Then I built a couple more forms till I ran out of wood. List is made for a material run tomorrow morning. Calling it a night for today. I sure am beat after this long week. Next week is going to be even worse. Back to work 60+ hours and try and fit in time to get rest of forms done and mounted along with rebar and rods.

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[Sparkynutz]

Today-
Went to menards and got wood for forms, pvc and floor drain, new pvc for electrical service, 1/2" rebar for uprights in wall for higher sheer strength. More retaining wall block for window well and a bag of mortar.
Drilled all holes for rebar.
Moved jacking points inward jacked up garage and moved cribbing in just far enough to clear the wall forms.
Put complete interior forms in place and got measurements for the end odd forms. It's supposed to be nice rest of week. Finish forms tomorrow and Hopefully pour by weeks end.

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[Lunker]

Looking forward to seeing pics on the pour

 

[D45]

I give you so much credit for busting your *** and doing all this yourself

What a great project.......I wish you the best of luck

 

[Sparkynutz]

Here's a couple pics of last few days progress til something big happens.
Today I cut all the 2x4 stakes to a point and all the 2x6's to length for the rest of forms. Then I sprayed as many forms as I could move my myself with silicone deck sealer hoping that helps the concrete not stick so bad that I can use the plywood afterwards. I talked to concrete guy and hoping to pour friday. He's stopping over Thursday to see where I'm at. Crunch time!


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[Lunker]

Are you back to pouring forms? I thought you were doing block

 

[theoldwizard1]

4 inches Heavily compacted screenings on top of dirt that was very hard to dig. It's in a pretty protected inside corner that had been bone dry 4 of the 6 times my garage flooded. Last two times I had it dug out to do the window well or it probably would have stayed dry the other 2 times.

Typically when using "garden wall" block for a short retaining wall, you bury the first course so that it is level (or just below level) with the lower grade as a minimum for a "foter".

It was the only type of block menards had that could make an inside visible corner decent. Every other type of retaining blocks were for angled outside radius corners.

Odd. I have used standard garden wall block for inside radius corner. The problem is the top. You need some kind of lower profile some what square blocks you can cut for the proper inside radius and cover the gaps in the back of the other block (which should have been back filled with stone dust/slag or whatever they call it in your area).

These blocks had no lip and when I tried to do the design Center at menards it wouldn't let me go over 2ft saying block wasn't meant for that. Only 4 courses or 22 inches will be retaining dirt when it's all finished and graded the way blocks lock together it will push against the basement wall and don't think it's even possible for it to cave inward.

Sort of a Roman arch on its side ! Good luck.

If it fails, your only possible solution is to dig it out and reset it, but after the first 2 courses, drill holes (SDS drill) and sink large diameter rebar through the blocks and into the ground. Grout or epoxy them in. Then the next 2 courses and repeat, but these do not need to go the full depth of the wall, just half way into the second course.

 

[Sparkynutz]

Typically when using "garden wall" block for a short retaining wall, you bury the first course so that it is level (or just below level) with the lower grade as a minimum for a "foter".


Odd. I have used standard garden wall block for inside radius corner. The problem is the top. You need some kind of lower profile some what square blocks you can cut for the proper inside radius and cover the gaps in the back of the other block (which should have been back filled with stone dust/slag or whatever they call it in your area).


Sort of a Roman arch on its side ! Good luck.

If it fails, your only possible solution is to dig it out and reset it, but after the first 2 courses, drill holes (SDS drill) and sink large diameter rebar through the blocks and into the ground. Grout or epoxy them in. Then the next 2 courses and repeat, but these do not need to go the full depth of the wall, just half way into the second course.

I buried 3 courses. Not just one course and put mortar between all courses and outside before burying. You can see that in first pic of them a few pages back. The new pic is after its all buried and second row on top of concrete block to make a step for getting out of egress window. Those need to be cut and mortar together yet. I'll worry about that after garage is complete. I will be bringing grade up to within an inch or two of the outside of those blocks.
Using typical retaining block and doing the radius I did the gaps between blocks would be huge. Yes I could have cut cap blocks to cover it up but overall the wall would have been pretty weak and easily push dirt and water through the giant gaps between blocks. The blocks I used fit tight together with no gap or cap blocks needed. I was tempted to put rebar in but didn't figure I needed it. I can always redo it in a few years if needed but pretty confident it will hold up just fine.


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[Sparkynutz]

Are you back to pouring forms? I thought you were doing block

Yes. Pouring forms. The floor is so uneven under the wall that getting block level would have been a pain. There are spots in the back wall that would have needed 3/8" more mortar on the outside of block than the inside. I didn't like how easily the blocks broke when working with them on my window well and just couldn't come up with an acceptable way to integrate the block to the floor. 4 inch top course would have been weak with not much surface area holding it to the 8 inch course below and sawing the top course would have been a lot of work, mess, and worried me they would break or fail next to the cuts putting my garage support at risk. Pouring just seemed so much stronger with easier rebar install, easier to level and sit flat on top of the uneven slab. I already had the majority of the wood and all the plywood except 4 sheets was already cut for forms.
I always second guess myself and run through options over and over and over hoping that I don't make the wrong decision. It seems that in the end I always could have done something better and I always try to make best decision I can. Pros and cons of each. Block would have been cheaper, easier, and safer but pouring would be stronger for my long term use and hopefully lasts me 20+ years without issue.

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