The wet garage raise

[Pluribus]

Haven't had anything to contribute to this thread, but I have been lurking enthusiastically. Great to see your tenacity and problem-solving, and it ***** to see how frustrating it is to get help. Hopefully a good solution will present itself soon. In the mean time, thanks for posting the process. Hang in there!

 

[Firstram]

I've measured driveway slab multiple times with laser and water level getting different results.
Very first measurement was 21" above garage slab. Second measurement was 31"above garage slab and my new measurement was 28" above garage slab.
My long distance measuring skills **** as you can tell.
The good news is the garage forms are close enough together that I can get my water level will reach all of them at same time to get a better idea if level or not.

With all of the hard work, money spent, decisions made, sleepless nights and dealing with ****** subs, I'm sure your head is spinning! Transits, builders levels and various laser levels can lead to mistakes if you are not used to lower numbers meaning higher elevations and they need periodic calibration. I've never had a water level lie to me.

I have two 6' pieces of clear tubing with garden hose fittings and use whatever length garden hose I need to get where I am working. Install one tube on the male end of GH, hook the GH to a spigot, run water until all of the air is out and plug clear tube. Unhook the GH from spigot and install the other tube on the female end of the GH. Hold the tops of the tubes together, pull plug and mark the tubes when the water equalizes. The marks should be roughly centered on the tubing.

Hang one end of the tubing on the garage wall with the mark lined up with the top of your form. Take the other end of the tube anywhere you want and raise/lower the tube until the water is on the line and it will show the height of your starting point. It is accurate and will give you a great visual of what is going on.

To measure the driveway, cut a scrap of wood approx 12" and a 2x4 5'ish. Hold the block against one end of the 2x and mark that length. Attach one end of the level (with the marks lined up) to the 2x and prop it up in the driveway. Stand the 12" block on top of your form and adjust the other end of the tubing so the water is on the mark. The distance from the block to the water level is your elevation difference.

You are doing a great job, keep up the hard work and this will soon be a distant memory.

 

[Sparkynutz]

I didn't really feel like playing with water today and was thinking about ordering extra concrete just in case and figured it was a good time to have a backup spot I could pour if I didn't use the extra concrete. I dug out next to my front approach where my tires always got muddy backing in a trailer. After digging it out I realized I don't have enough spare gravel to temporarily full it for concrete truck to drive on and it would probably be worse to have him drive on even more of the good part of my driveway to go around it.
Looks like I'll be trying to get another load of gravel monday.
Unless I can stack a bunch of my railroad ties and cribbing in the hole for him to drive on.


Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[Sparkynutz]

Oops here's pic

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[Vintage Veloce]

Note that "water levels" will NOT work properly with any bubbles in it. I got 50' of clear 3/4" tubing, hooked one end to the bottom of a gallon bottle as a reservoir, and tinted the water. Even with the reservoir at one end, it was a real pain getting all the bubbles out. Also, the ends have to be higher than the the rest of the hose. It was accurate, but harder to get setup that I expected. Shorter lengths would be easier.

 

[Hilltopmasonry]

Note that "water levels" will NOT work properly with any bubbles in it. I got 50' of clear 3/4" tubing, hooked one end to the bottom of a gallon bottle as a reservoir, and tinted the water. Even with the reservoir at one end, it was a real pain getting all the bubbles out. Also, the ends have to be higher than the the rest of the hose. It was accurate, but harder to get setup that I expected. Shorter lengths would be easier.

Using Windshield washer fluid would save you the process of dying the water to make it easier to see

Yea it needs to be bubble free but I have never had too much trouble getting the bubbles out,


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Sparkynutz]

Called a few new concrete places today and left messages. Doubt they'll get back to me like the rest of them. Called the local ready mix plant and asked for references. One reference was contractor #2 that isn't returning my calls two more over the weekend. One at 630am this morning so I figured I'd get him before work. Rang twice then voicemail. Obviously avoiding my call. Second reference actually answered. Not interested. Too busy to even look at it. Atleast he's honest I guess. Called ready mix back and asked how much notice to order concrete and do it myself. They said two days. I asked if they could help me get correct mix and they said all we need to know is dimensions. I said I already know how many yards I need I just don't know about ideal slump, psi, flyash, air, mesh, etc. I need 5.6 yards. Ill order 6.5 just incase. They said measure and call us back then hung up on me. I'll be pouring over 40+ yards in the next few years and know who definitely isn't getting my business on the easy stuff.
Time to ask friends to help and call the other ready mix plant tomorrow. Hoping to pour friday morning

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[D45]

Awesome news, it will be hard work but also extremely rewarding

With the forms and braces my novice eyes see, I doubt you will have any issues!!!

I applaud you!!!!!!

 

[jhelrey]

Where in WI?

 

[rburke65]

Get some buddies, wheelbarrows, and maybe rent a ******** and do it.

 

[smalltown]

When a cement contractor showed up to give us a quote on our garage foundation. I told him that the architect had a design, and where he wanted the garage sited. He said you tell the architect that I am going to put it here another location. I didn't say a thing, but knew immediately that guy wasn't getting any of my business. Others would not even return repeated calls. Finally found a great cement guy by recommendation. I feel your pain. I think the good guys are very busy all the time.

 

[Lunker]

I can't believe you can't find someone in Oshkosh or Appleton to do this. Have you looked up that way.

 

[Vintage Veloce]

Here's an idea... post for volunteers from the garage journal!

... err... maybe not. You'd just end up with a bunch of guys standing back and pointing, saying; "You're doing it wrong", Look at these pictures on my phone of my build", and "That looks great, you can handle it while I get another beer!"

 

[Sparkynutz]

Here's an idea... post for volunteers from the garage journal!

... err... maybe not. You'd just end up with a bunch of guys standing back and pointing, saying; "You're doing it wrong", Look at these pictures on my phone of my build", and "That looks great, you can handle it while I get another beer!"

[emoji106]
Two of the guys I was counting on helping are busy friday. One going to MN deer hunting and the other has to babysit his nephew. That kinda bites and after asking all my friends that I'd trust to do acceptable work it's me, my uncle and one friend from work. 3 definitely isn't enough. I could get one more guy but he splashed concrete all over my siding last time he helped when we poured driveway at my old house.
Wall guy from Columbus called back. He was very helpful but can't pour for about 2 weeks. He said the weak point of my setup is the tapcons and nails holding inside forms. I have to agree and taking his advice I will be installing some 1/2" anchors 2 per form and on the 8 braces. Better safe than sorry having a spill.
Just for heck of it I texted contractor #1 for first time in over a month and he got right back to me saying hes been past and my forms looked good. He said he might be able to pour for me saturday and would know by tomorrow. Contractor #2 after another voicemail. Still no response. Funny thing is. Contractor #1 used to work for #2 and #2 wanted to call and give #1 a hard time for not returning my calls when I initially asked him to pour my wall and he promised he'd fit me in. Then he turns around and is even worse.
I posted on a local guys facebook group looking for help and one of the recommendations was the same guy I had bought barn beams from when I started lifting the garage. He seemed like a very stand up guy and gave me a smoking deal on the beams. I contacted him and he said he'd get with his guys tomorrow and see if he could fit me in this week. I forgot to ask name of the business tho but he said my job would be no problem for him and his guys after I sent him a few pics.
Hopefully I get some pour plans made tomorrow.
I also want to figure out a way to mildly pre-heat the garage night before so that everything goes well.
I have 40 or so used 4x8 sheets of 2" white insulation I got free this summer I was thinking of leaning up against outside of garage all the way around to keep heat in. Not sure how to close up garage door and soffet tho. The garage breathes too well to keep any heat in. Maybe I'll just lean insulation sheets up against inside forms and put a 130ft heated roof cable inside forms until before it's poured.
Hopefully its not windy and the insulation doesn't blow away too.
Overall it was a decent day.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[wasfast]

Colder climates often have hot water for the concrete. A cost adder but lets you pour near freezing.

 

[MagKarl]

You only need a couple helpers, don't get discouraged.

You'll be able to do a good chunk of it from the chute, wheelbarrow the rest.

Most of the drivers are very helpful, they know the drill.

I'd definitely rent a ********.

 

[gilr]

I would also place plastic over the lower part of the siding to prevent getting cement all over it while pouring, it is a mess to get off and easier to just remove the plastic after you have finished. Otherwise, I don't see why this is a complicated pour, I'd hire professionals to do the floor, not the riser walls. I did my own garage (24' x 25) in my second house which I did a monolithic slab/foundation, and it turned out fine, took about 25 yards of concrete. Had two friends and it was hot that day, not fun but it turned out ok.

 

[Lunker]

Its not that cold I think you'll be fine.

 

[Sparkynutz]

I stopped at ready mix plant.
Chute isn't long enough to reach side walls but with ramps that can be wheeled a few feet and dumped. Guy gave me exact mix to use. 4k psi, 4 inch slump with full air and fly ash. I was surprised only 4 inch slump but he said I can always add a little water on truck if needed.
They said they won't be open saturday unless they get some big orders. $15/yard sat charge if they do open.
Nov 1st starts heated water charge too.
I told contractor #1 that and he responded he'll be busy pouring a basement friday. I called Contractor #2 and left message asking to borrow wheelbarrows, shovels, ********.
I won't hold my breath on a call back. I'll go to his shop tomorrow and see if I can catch him there.
My uncle is having shoulder surgery Monday so he won't be a super lot of help pouring and no help after Monday.
Can't wait to get this done.
There's plastic stapled to inside of walls to avoid slopping concrete on. No sense in putting plastic on siding. We are only pouring from the inside.
My wife is making a nice big breakfast then I'll bundle up and get new anchors installed.
She hasn't been a super lot of help but I can't complain because she's always had a good lunch ready for me and anyone else helping that day.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[Deezler]

Whatever you do, do NOT complain at your wife. Lol. Breakfast and lunches is more help than I get from mine, haha!

Good luck man, been lurking on this saga also.

 

[ahaugh]

Man I thought moving my storage shed was a pain... hats off to you

 

[1949 caddyman]

Good luck, I can only add that a wheelbarrow full of concrete is very heavy. If it tips to the side it may dump all of it out the side.

I’d do some math, how many wheelbarrows for 6 yards? Either build chutes or get a pumper. Not being a downer but you need to get that concrete in the forms before it sets up.

Again good luck!
It would be an easy job with a pumper & ********.

I did some calculaions. 6yds concrete are 162 cu ft. Concrete is 148#/cu ft. A wheelbarrow is 6 cu ft. Thats 888# of concrete. Thats 27 wheelbarrow trips.

 

[TractorJeff]

You aren't going to lift a wheelbarrow full (6cuft) of concrete!
Just saying.......

 

[Sparkynutz]

Back wall is roughly 400 shovels full that will all need to be shoveled. Side walls can be wheeled up short ramps I made and dumped. We'll be doing 1/2 full wheelbarrows at very most. I've wheeled plenty of times and tipping one once is enough to learn the lesson not to overfill. Should be pretty simple short 5-15ft trips inside the garage and nothing like wheeling around a house on uneven ground. Guy at ready mix said I should have about two hours before things start to set which hopefully is about the right amount of time. 2 of my helpers have to work that day and have to leave at 1:30 so the truck better not be too late.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[Sparkynutz]

Only the back and side walls will need to be wheeled. That's 50 wheelbarrows full at a touch over 2 yards per wheelbarrow.
Back wall will take approximately 40 min to shovel I estimate and probably about another 40 minutes to wheel and dump the side walls. Front can be poured right from the truck first before wheeling anything. Depending how it settles that might help not having to pour as much on sides. I won't know until we start.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[1949 caddyman]

Glad you have thought it out!

 

[gasgas17]

Good luck with the pour and stay safe.

 

[Sparkynutz]

Got some unexpected yes from coworkers when I asked them to help me pour. As long as truck shows up on time or early I'll be golden. Everybody has to leave for work at 1:30 and my wife is going to make a nice big lunch for everyone. Hope they have time to eat or I'll be bringing it into work for their break time.
4 possibly 5 wheelbarrows and 5 possibly 8 guys. I just need to get a ******** somewhere or just **** it up and buy one at harbor freight.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[ford33]

Good to hear you are making progress. I admire your ability to keep working the problems and finding solutions.

Are you in an engineering career?

 

[Sparkynutz]

Nope. Jack of all trades. Master of none. Been an electrician for about 14 years journeyman for about 6. Tried to change jobs within to work less overtime and guy that replaced me quit after a year along with 3rd shift electrician right when that guy started. They finally hired a new 3rd shift guy last week. We'll see how long he lasts. I'm a Machinist now doing that and Electrician same time for about 3 years now. It's probably a good thing because I need the money for projects on the new house. Hopefully someday I get a break and they get my replacement hired.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[ford33]

All those jobs require the ability to think clearly and work through problems to a conclusion. I hope they find an additional electrician so you have more personal time to work on what you enjoy.

I wish you continued success with this project and future home improvements.

 

[diiulio]

You can rent a ******** from any equipment place for like $20/day. Use a ********, just don't over vibrate. You can blow forms out or vibrate the aggregate to the bottom if you just sit there and vibrate. Stick it in for a count of 3 or 4, you may or may not see bubbles depending on the mix, temp, etc. Don't drag the ******** through the concrete. Don't throw it out like you are casting a fishing line. Just put it in slowly down, vibrate, then slowly up.

Forms look solid. Make a plywood 'chute' similar to a funnel so dumping the wheel barrows is quick. You don't want to have to dump slow. You can slide the chute around as you pour. You will wear out quick if you are shoveling concrete. Your arms will be jello in less than 10 minutes. If you have to build up a couple of ramps (plywood or dunnage or soil) so the wheel barrrows can dump and the chute slides take it to the form. I don't have any pics of what I've done in the past, but I found this on youtube, see end of paragraph. I realize your forms are higher than the grade, so build up some dunnage or a plywood ramp and platform to pour from. You only need to dump every 6'-8' along the wall and then you can shovel it around once you get it in the form, much easier.
Like this...

Make sure you wet down the sub base and forms like an hour before you pour. No puddles, just wet. You don't want the subgrade/forms to **** the water out of the concrete.

I don't know what the weather is there, but it is low 30's here in the morning. As long as it is above 32 you are fine. If it gets below 32 you need something to keep the heat from the curing process in like plastic sheeting or foam or whatever. Concrete blankets are typically used which are a couple layers of heavy tarp with a thin foam layer between. If it is freezing don't spray water on it for curing. You can leave the forms on for a few days for the insulation if freezing is a concern. Just make sure you used a form release, I think I read earlier you coated them with oil or something.

This is an interesting thread and I am hoping you get this pour done and garage back down safely.

 

[D45]

If you have a home depot nearby, they have a decent selection of tools for rent........usually cheap too

 

[1949 caddyman]

HD has this ******** for rent.

 

[Sparkynutz]

Nearest HD is almost hour away. I'll check local rent it shop. If they don't have one I know a place that does 30 min away after asking ready mix guy.
No turning back now. As if that was possible before today. Concrete is ordered. 6.5 yards. Calculations showed about 5.6 yards needed. Yesterday they said 11am now they said maybe closer to noon. I said I sure hope not because all my help has to be at work before 2pm. He said he'd get it out as soon as possible.
I've been thinking about easiest way to get concrete in walls and wondering if 5 gallon buckets would be easier than shoveling out of a wheelbarrow. I have access to about 20+ buckets and a rolling hydraulic lift table.
Fill the cart with buckets roll next to wall, jack it up and tip them in. Repeat. Might not necessarily be quicker but should be much less work I'd assume.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[Platonic Solid]

I assume a concrete buggy would be useless since you can't get it inside the garage and you can't pour from the outside.

 

[Sparkynutz]

I assume a concrete buggy would be useless since you can't get it inside the garage and you can't pour from the outside.

Correct.
202 gallons of concrete per yard.
4 gallons per bucket to be safer.
50 buckets per yard.
10 buckets per trip with my dad's hydraulic rolling lift table.
5 trips per yard.
A lot of stuff was poured with bucket in the old days and worked just fine. It should work for me.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[aka Larry]

Still following along hoping to see pics of you pouring concrete and finishing up you project. Your tenacity to get this done is to be admired.

4 gallons per bucket to be safer.
50 buckets per yard.

According to the Google, 4 gallons of concrete is approx. 80 lbs. Hope those buckets have strong handles!

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Subscribed! Awesome work man.

 

[diiulio]

Can you cut out a small section of form to get concrete into from the outside? Then after you get to a certain height nail it back in and then top off with shoveling. Buckets will be heavy.