This 20% Torque Wrench rule?

[Quickster]

Another torque wrench thread

I did a specific search for Torque wrench in "general tools discussion" and found well over 300 threads with torque wrench in the title wow! Couldn't really find a answer to my question through all that so here we are. Was just curious if some companies actually account for this 20% rule I have been seeing mentioned in a few threads?

At the moment I need a Torque wrench that can do 18 ft lbs, and 106 in lbs.

Here is a wide range of torque specs I would need to do also.

http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?category=1


I just purchased a few torque wrenches off ToolTopia last Friday. Been reading good things about the PI split beams so I purchased one, just wish they had one that was below 20 ft lbs.

I ended up purchasing this, and I'll just do the conversion for the Ft lbs to In lbs when needed.

http://www.tooltopia.com/precision-instruments-c2fr600h.aspx
Precision Instruments (PREC2FR600H)
120 to 600 in./lbs.

Now bare with me my Math is terrible at times. So for the 20% rule I just times that by highest torque setting correct? 0.20 x 600 in lbs = 120 in lbs so they accounted for this? This tool should be accurate through the whole range?

So 11 lb ft, 15 lb ft, 18 lb ft, 22 lb ft, 26 lb ft, 30 lb ft, 37 lb ft, 44 lb ft

I should be covered with this Torque wrench correct? Still needed a torque wrench that could do 106 in lbs so I bought....

http://www.tooltopia.com/gearwrench-85051.aspx
GearWrench (KD 85051)
25-250 in/lbs.

This would only be good at 50 in lbs and UP? Lowest TRQ specs in the link posted above are that I need are 44 in lbs for the intake manifold and 15 in lbs for trans.

I know I could have just purchased one of the PI Beam/Dial torque wrench but for whatever reason I did not want to purchase one of those. Guess I will buy one eventually and try it out.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Another torque wrench thread

I did a specific search for Torque wrench in "general tools discussion" and found well over 300 threads with torque wrench in the title wow! Couldn't really find a answer to my question through all that so here we are. Was just curious if some companies actually account for this 20% rule I have been seeing mentioned in a few threads?

At the moment I need a Torque wrench that can do 18 ft lbs, and 106 in lbs.

Here is a wide range of torque specs I would need to do also.

http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?category=1


I just purchased a few torque wrenches off ToolTopia last Friday. Been reading good things about the PI split beams so I purchased one, just wish they had one that was below 20 ft lbs.

I ended up purchasing this, and I'll just do the conversion for the Ft lbs to In lbs when needed.

http://www.tooltopia.com/precision-instruments-c2fr600h.aspx
Precision Instruments (PREC2FR600H)
120 to 600 in./lbs.

Now bare with me my Math is terrible at times. So for the 20% rule I just times that by highest torque setting correct? 0.20 x 600 in lbs = 120 in lbs so they accounted for this? This tool should be accurate through the whole range?

You are correct!

So 11 lb ft, 15 lb ft, 18 lb ft, 22 lb ft, 26 lb ft, 30 lb ft, 37 lb ft, 44 lb ft

I should be covered with this Torque wrench correct? Still needed a torque wrench that could do 106 in lbs so I bought....

http://www.tooltopia.com/gearwrench-85051.aspx
GearWrench (KD 85051)
25-250 in/lbs.

This would only be good at 50 in lbs and UP? Lowest TRQ specs in the link posted above are that I need are 44 in lbs for the intake manifold and 15 in lbs for trans.

I know I could have just purchased one of the PI Beam/Dial torque wrench but for whatever reason I did not want to purchase one of those. Guess I will buy one eventually and try it out.

The organization that determines torque wrench standards (which varies from country to country) establishes the certification standards. In the case of beam and dial type, even though the scale goes all the way to zero, the torque wrench may not be accurate at those portions of the scale, depending on the standards to which the tool is certified. (its almost always the bottom 20% that is considered inaccurate).

I have lots of torque wrenches and still find occasions when I cannot get one with the range I need.

Charles

 

[87Pomona]

^^^You can never have too many of one tool

Good looking collection you have there.

 

[Quickster]

That's a big beast in the back there, how long is that trq wrench?

 

[jetmech09]

It depends on the torque wrench. I'm not hopping on a snap-on boat here, but I know for a fact that snap-on accounts for the 20% already. The torque values on the wrench (at least on the clicker type) are accurate. Snappys are the only ones I've ever used, so I can't help you with other brands.

 

[LG63]

Do you plan to used a torque wrench for every fastener listed in that LS1 table?

 

[bob15]

I know its too late, but personally I would have bought a dial torque wrench for 100-200 in/lb range. Those fasteners can be finicky and like to strip easier and with a dial, you can see what your torque number is as you're tightening.

As for the math you are correct. I would question the 25-250, as most have it listed as 50-250.

These are nice torque wrenches: http://www.protorquetools.com/prod-18-1-1126/seekonk_tsq-300_38_dr_rigid_frame_dial_type_torque_wrench_0-300_inlbs.htm


bob

 

[Treeman]

Your calculations seem to be right. And yes, many companies have wrenches with notations below the "20% rule" .....just don't use them at those low settings..

If one wanted to be more frugal, I would have bought your KD wrench (4 to 21 ft. lb.) and then the PI 3/8" wrench (20 to 100 ft. lb.) to have a more broad coverage with only two wrenches. Ya, the 20 ft. lb. area is a bit weak, but still works.

Then, for your next wrench get the P.I. 1/2 " wrench at 50 to 250 ft. lbs. to cover most of your bases. Just my opinion.

 

[Quickster]

It depends on the torque wrench. I'm not hopping on a snap-on boat here, but I know for a fact that snap-on accounts for the 20% already. The torque values on the wrench (at least on the clicker type) are accurate. Snappys are the only ones I've ever used, so I can't help you with other brands.

I was looking at some Snap-on torque wrench on ebay. Model# QD2FR75 I think. 5-75ft lb wrench. I think this will be one of my next purchase, either new or used and have it sent in to be recalibrated.

Do you plan to used a torque wrench for every fastener listed in that LS1 table?

I don't have any intentions of doing a complete build from bare block to oil pan/intake complete at this very moment, but soon. Plan to just use some commonly used trq specs like intake manifold, cylinder head trq specs (which are trq to angle), front cover bolts for swaping out cam, header bolts etc. so

18 ft lbs,
240 ft lbs (Crank balancer )
22 ft lbs
37 ft lbs
11 ft lbs
106 in lbs

just to name a few commonly uses trq specs when working on these engines.

I know its too late, but personally I would have bought a dial torque wrench for 100-200 in/lb range. Those fasteners can be finicky and like to strip easier and with a dial, you can see what your torque number is as you're tightening.

As for the math you are correct. I would question the 25-250, as most have it listed as 50-250.

These are nice torque wrenches: http://www.protorquetools.com/prod-18-1-1126/seekonk_tsq-300_38_dr_rigid_frame_dial_type_torque_wrench_0-300_inlbs.htm


bob

Yeah with the 20%, 50 in.lbs is low as I planned on going with it.

Your calculations seem to be right. And yes, many companies have wrenches with notations below the "20% rule" .....just don't use them at those low settings..

If one wanted to be more frugal, I would have bought your KD wrench (4 to 21 ft. lb.) and then the PI 3/8" wrench (20 to 100 ft. lb.) to have a more broad coverage with only two wrenches. Ya, the 20 ft. lb. area is a bit weak, but still works.

Then, for your next wrench get the P.I. 1/2 " wrench at 50 to 250 ft. lbs. to cover most of your bases. Just my opinion.

I actually plan on buying the PI 3/8" 20-10 ft. lb. wrench after using the in. lb. PI that arrived today.

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To my surprise I actually got my order in from ToolTopia today. Order placed on 10/5, arrived today 10/9. I was thinking it might take until end of the week since I never got an shipping confirmation.

First impressions I love this PI in. lb. split beam wrench. Nice loud click to it, nice built, adjusting the trq and the lock is very nice.

The Gear Wrench, its a little guy with a little bit of weight to it. I used it at the needed 106 in lb setting, not really a clear click when trq was reached, yet more of a feel to it. It feels just like a Craftsman 20-150 ft. lb wrench that I have. Only difference is the Gearwrench has a metal locking ring. I will probably be selling this wrench once I'm done with it and buying a dial type for the lower In. Lb. ranges I need.

 

[pipsters]

I own the 100-600 in-lbs split beam and a 1/2" clicker. I eventually will get the 1/2" 50-250 ft-lbs split beam as well. That will take me from about 10 ft-lbs to 250 ft-lbs with accuracy.

I know this is just me but honestly anything below 10 ft-lbs I don't even worry about unless it's a precision application. So far I have yet to come across one that is. On those you can get a cheap 1/4" beam style torque wrench if you'd like.

The PI 120-600 goes down to 100 in-lbs which is roughly 8 ft-lbs. No it might now be 100% accurate but it's going to be really close. I tested my PI using a Craftsman beam and it was nuts on at 10 ft-lbs.

The only issue I have had with my PI is rust is forming inside the handle and I'm concerned it's going to spread and become cancerous. I bought a PI to use forever (no batteries, doesn't go out of calibration, etc.) and I'm worried it's going to get all rusted on the inside where the guts are. It's stored in a garage, you would think they'd put a coating on the inside or something.

 

[larryq]

The only issue I have had with my PI is rust is forming inside the handle and I'm concerned it's going to spread and become cancerous. I bought a PI to use forever (no batteries, doesn't go out of calibration, etc.) and I'm worried it's going to get all rusted on the inside where the guts are. It's stored in a garage, you would think they'd put a coating on the inside or something.

My PIs have the same issue, but there's a rubber plug a bit further up the tunnel to keep out moisture and such. So I think it'll be ok, just a little surface rust near the end? I doubt PI would have used this design if they thought it would be a problem.

 

[Quickster]

The only issue I have had with my PI is rust is forming inside the handle and I'm concerned it's going to spread and become cancerous. I bought a PI to use forever (no batteries, doesn't go out of calibration, etc.) and I'm worried it's going to get all rusted on the inside where the guts are. It's stored in a garage, you would think they'd put a coating on the inside or something.

Guess I'll have to keep an eye out for that. Maybe Keep a silica packet in the case to absorb some moisture. Usually find them for FREE laying around on the ground in clothing area of department stores.