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This could be the ultimate welding table.

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PT Doc

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Joined
Nov 12, 2010
Messages
3,197
There was some discussion of deflection. If that ever became a regular problem, you could but another long support down the center of the long dimension of the table and just use 1 bolt in the center of each plate. This wouldn't hinder clamping.

Again, very, very nice design and build. Caster plates are great.
 

frsava

New member
Joined
Jul 30, 2013
Messages
1
Nice table. I liked it so much that I am in the process of making one very much like it. Mine is going to be 3' x 8'. A local supplier had some 5/8" x 6 flat bar that they had extra that I got very good price. My rails (which are 2" x 4" x 3/16") will be 30" apart so that I'll have 3" over hang on each side. Also, I decided rather than weld bolts to the bottom of the slabs, that I would instead drill and tap holes and use 1/2" x 3" studs. This way I figured that if I needed to, could always flip a slab over if the top side got messed up.
I already drilled and tapped the top pieces and am in the process of drilling the holes in the rails. I wanted to ask you if you were to do it again, is there anything you would do differently? I have some expanded metal and i have thought about making a shelf at the bottom of my rails so anything I drop through the gaps in between won't have to hit the floor, but only drop 6" or so. I am worried that in addition to the stray tool that I might end up with a one more spot for debris to build up.
 

KerryH

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Joined
Jun 23, 2013
Messages
113
Location
Ga
Fantastic table, Thanks for sharing and I look forward to incorporating some of these features in a future table!
 
OP
A

AMCguy

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Joined
Dec 23, 2009
Messages
2,022
Location
Sunshine Coast, BC Canada
I'd like to thank everybody for all their comments.

frsava, It sounds like you're going to have a great table. In answer to your question, I would have used 2''x4'' for the top rail if I had it in my shop at the time. I know the 2''x3'' is adequate but I think it would have looked better with 2''x4''.
 

theknurl

Banned
Joined
Dec 18, 2010
Messages
921
Location
SoCal
if you folks build, in effect slotted tables, make the slots a tad over 5/8"......

then you won't need C-clamps, you can use T-slot clamps like every milling machine in the World and they cost peanuts compared to C-clamps

my welding table top is 21"x 64" (perfect for building motorcycles) its Navy plate, 1/8" of stainless bonded to 5/8" of steel, its rimmed with 3/8x3x3

deflection? i don't think so:thumbup:

:beer:
 
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Richard D

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Joined
Jan 19, 2007
Messages
1,921
Location
Texas City, between Houston and Galveston
if you folks build, in effect slotted tables, make the slots a tad over 5/8"......

then you won't need C-clamps, you can use T-slot clamps like every milling machine in the World and they cost peanuts compared to C-clamps

my welding table top is 21"x 64" (perfect for building motorcycles) its Navy plate, 1/8" of stainless bonded to 5/8" of steel, its rimmed with 3/8x3x3

deflection? i don't think so:thumbup:

:beer:

I like this idea, I already have T nuts for my mill.

What is Navy Plate? Where can I get it? How about pictures of your table?
 
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bldgengineer

Active member
Joined
Apr 11, 2010
Messages
26
Location
Eastern shore of Maryland
I'm subscribing so I can steal this design later on. By the way, how would you suggest incorporating a vise, tube notcher, and possibly a shrinker/stretcher into your design?

If you're still reading this of course lol ;)
 
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A

AMCguy

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 23, 2009
Messages
2,022
Location
Sunshine Coast, BC Canada
i might have missed it but are the legs .120 wall? nice table.

All the tubing used was .125'' I mentioned earlier, that if I was doing it again, I would use 4''x2'' on the upper portion of the table. The 3''x2'' is certainly adequate but I would prefer it look beefier.

I'm subscribing so I can steal this design later on. By the way, how would you suggest incorporating a vise, tube notcher, and possibly a shrinker/stretcher into your design?

If you're still reading this of course lol ;)

For lighter things, I would probably build a mount for each tool that I could clamp to the surface plates rather than have a receiver tube incorporated into the table frame. I wanted my table to be as clean as it could be. I prefer not to have anything else on it. Even though the four casters I used lock, I think the table would move around a bit if I was using a vise attached anywhere.

Thanks for the inspiration, I finally built mine:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=225206

Your table looks great. If I inspired you (or anyone else) then all the time I took to post this thread was worth it. I'm not very handy with a computer.

I'd like to thank you all once again for the kind replies and great questions. Here is what the table looks like these days. The only thing I have done is paint it. I've used it quite a lot since it's completion.
 

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MillerMav

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Joined
Feb 6, 2013
Messages
269
To the OP....Did you ever come up with your "modded c-clamps"? Just curious to see what you came up with for clamping systems.

Awesome build. It definitely has me thinking about dismantling my current set-up
 

Doug19

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 7, 2006
Messages
229
Location
Pittsburgh, PA
if you folks build, in effect slotted tables, make the slots a tad over 5/8"......

then you won't need C-clamps, you can use T-slot clamps like every milling machine in the World and they cost peanuts compared to C-clamps

my welding table top is 21"x 64" (perfect for building motorcycles) its Navy plate, 1/8" of stainless bonded to 5/8" of steel, its rimmed with 3/8x3x3

deflection? i don't think so:thumbup:

:beer:

I really like this idea of using T-slot clamps. Anybody ever seen it done or can come up with a reason it wouldn't work?
 

tw0st3p

Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2014
Messages
7
Location
Indianapolis
I liked this design so much that I copied it and built one for myself. Way overkill for anything I need but it was a fun build.

attachment.php
 

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Buil-dwelder

New member
Joined
Apr 14, 2015
Messages
1
AMCGuy,

Wow. Very nice design, and build. Just found your thread by doing a search on web for a different kind of table, but clicked on the link for your build. Glad I did! I registered here to let you know that your sharing with everyone is excellent! This design is in my fabricating future, in about 3 months from now.

I was originally looking for a spinning rotary table, like a potter's wheel, to aid in cutting circles in/from metal. Would you happen to have killer plans for one of those?, lol!

Greg
 

TJM2

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Joined
Jan 16, 2014
Messages
66
Location
St Louis MO
That table is awesome. Outstanding work, truly. I opened this thread thinking "I can probably pull this off" and got to the end thinking "nope!"

Maybe in the future I will have a little more experience and confidence to attempt a build like this. In the mean time I'm just going to admire the pics. Thanks for sharing!
 

bulletpruf

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 28, 2013
Messages
10,912
Location
San Antonio
First thing I'll be building is my engine run-in stand. Then I'll be building an auto rotisserie. I started a small business fabricating brackets, crossmembers, performance suspension and other small parts for AMCs a while back but had to put it on hold because I was too busy with my main livelihood. I hope to get that back up and running soon. This table and the various fixtures I'll be building will play an important part.

Interesting! I'm building a 71 Javelin road race project. Difficult to find suspension parts; had a heck of a time finding coil overs. Getting some custom upper control arms made up now. Are you a member at www.theamcforum.com?

Let me know what you'll be producing when you get up and running.

Scott
 

kittybum

New member
Joined
Aug 31, 2015
Messages
1
Great table; you inspired me to build a very similar design.
I was just wondering how you went about leveling up all the plates?

Thanks!
 
OP
A

AMCguy

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 23, 2009
Messages
2,022
Location
Sunshine Coast, BC Canada
Thanks. Im glad you liked it.

I just set a straight edge on it and adjusted each plank until it just touched the bottom of it.

Post up some pictures of your completed build.
 

Adam McLaughlin

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2008
Messages
1,843
Location
Santa Rosa, CA
I too liked this design well enough to take the idea, modify it slightly and duplicate the application

Very well done !!!
I'd like to see more builds like this

Adam



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

richeyc2000

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 22, 2015
Messages
984
Location
Europe
I agree entirely.
I loved this design so much I started from this design.
It's still a work in progress as everyday I see great ideas here like AMCguys and others it keeps evolving. [emoji106][emoji106][emoji3]

Well done and can't wait to see more.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Griff93

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 25, 2009
Messages
1,121
Location
Huntsville, AL
Thanks for posting this build. I'm going to build another welding table at some point. My current one is to small for a lot of the projects I get into these days at 2'x4'.
 

Mike W.

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 30, 2015
Messages
178
hi, great table, love it, very functional. I know this is an old thread but i know it'll be looked at often ppl looking at weld table builds.

I saw a couple questions about bending moments and how much the bar would support. I have some professional design software that can do basic FEA analysis pretty easy so i thought i'd run a couple simulations to see what your bar would hold. I included pic the explanations are below. The bend you see in these pics is greatly exaggerated to show the shape and direction of the deflection.

TOP BAR 600lb-1 = Load of 600lbs in an area 1.5" wide the width of the bar (see drawing for where i placed the force). Least Safety factor is 3 meaning the bar could theoretically hold 1800 lb before it reached it's elastic limit and the bend would be permanent. A safety factor of 3x is what the guys i work with usually work with but you could easily do 2x which is 1000 lb but would get roughly 1/6" of bend in the middle.

TOP BAR 600lb-2 = shows how much the bar would deflect at 600 lb, i think it was about 1/32"

The twp TOP BAR 1500 lb pics show the same thing as above but with a 1500 lb load.

Also the drawing (the last file) shows the 3/4" diameter "fixed" places to run the simulation and where in i placed the load. I placed the bolts roughly where i figured your bolts to be.

The total for the 8 bars on your table would be an easy 4800 lb across all of them, and that would be all of that weight sitting on a strip 1.5" wide. And that would be a safety factor of 3x. A very stout table you have :)

Mike
 

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